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Polyc  on  ic  Pro/ec  tion 

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madr  bti Ferdtrian^  fVe-ftdahf ,  IJrartfman 


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I 


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CORWIN  1885. 


II  W  4!  M  It  I  M  |r  K  J 


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kOowak  river 

I^ROM  A    RECONNAISsAnCL     MADE    BY 
Xieut\/C.Cantwe/l  oftAe  l/^ S^euenue  St/r  Corun/t 

en/^  Comfnancfing 

1885 


■^BTBrsr^scrrsJSjs^s^rWs'S'^^ 


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R  E  P  O  R  T 


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CRUISK  OF  THE  RKVKNUE  MARINE  STEAMER 


C  O  E  W  I N 


IN   TIIH 


T^^RCXIC   OCK^N 


» 


THE  YEAR  1885. 


BT 


CAPT.  M.   A.   HEALY,   U,  S.  R.  M., 

COMMANDKlt. 


?•?    •  •••  .«.  • 


■  •'••••  J..  I  •••  !  *  •  •     . ••  •   • 

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>     .   >  .     •   ■ 


;  •••   • •  •  ■      •  • 

•        •••••     »     ••„• 


WASHINGTON: 

GOVKRNMENT  PUINTINO  OFFICE. 

1887. 


I.  I]  'V  v  i:ii 

TiiK  A(TiN(;  si:(1{i:taiiy  or  tiik  tiiiiashky. 

IS  Hnsiih\si':  to  .1  uKsui,iTio\  iiv  Tin:  imrsi-:. 

TKANMHITTINIt, 

With  mvinitiHiHiiiim  iIikiiiih'iiIm,  lln'  n'i>nrf  of  Ca/it.  M.   .1.    llinlif,  ('.  S.    lifwniif  Mminf, 
iiltnii  fhr  i-niint'  i)f  thi'   lii'i'viiiir  Mariiii'  nfi'diiivr  Cnririii  in  Ihi'  Arrliv  Oft'ini,  in  tht'  iji'dr 

lHs;». 


MAHril  iH),  INNH,— |{i>r<>rnHl  Uittio  ('-iiiiiiiiit(i<«  mi  Niiviil  AlfiiirM  uml  ciiilcri'il  In  In>  iirintnl. 


TuKAsnts  Dki'autmknt,  Munh  ;".t,  IH.sd. 

Mir :  in  r<iHp(iiiH<«t(ithi<  roHnliitioii  of  tho  IIoiihimiI'  Kf|ircH*'iitiilivi-Hiir  tli<>  Istli  itiNttiiit,  I  liuvt* 
till'  li(»ii<ir  t«)  traimiiiit  licirwitli  v  <<i|)y  <>f  tli"  rt'|M»rt of  (;ii|»t.  M.  A.  Hi-uly,  U.  H.  U»'V«iiiui 
.MariiH',  U|m)I1  tin- <'niiM(' nf  tlif  Kt-vi'iiiK- Mariiii'stnuniT  ro>vr//(  in  I1m>  Antic  Oci'iiii.  iimdn  in 
llioyar  IMHr),  and  its  acciinipanyin^;  (luciinit-ntH  ami  iliiiHti'aliniiM. 

Tilt'  foilowitiK  iH  a  list  of  the  in(;l()Nnr<>N  wliicli  ciinHtitnti-  tin'  r'i'|icii'l  and  'ts  accunipaiii' 
Mi'nts: 

(I)  OontTal  report  ri)f  operations  of  vessel  I'nrthe  pi'otection  of  Ijie  seal   lisliei'ies  and  Hec. 
)tter  liiintinK-Ki'oiinds. 

(•i)  Ui'poit  of  Lieut.  .1.  (I.  (!antwell,  of  ex -'oration  of  Die  Kowak  Kiver,  with  pliotoKrajiliH 
uid  Itook  of  sketches. 

(;<)  Xoteson  l)inlsof  Kowak  Kiver  and  otherjiortionsof  Alaska,  and  notes  on  fishes  of  Alaska, 
liy  Charles  II.  'I'ownseiid.  assistant,  U.  S.  Kish  Cominission. 

(I)   liejiort of  Assistant  Kni^ineer  S.  M.  Mchenef^an,  of  expioi-alion  of  the  No.'ltak  Hivor. 

Nutnher  of  plioto;r|'aplls,  .'ili. 

F   have  I'cspectfnlly  to  reipu'st  that  in   prinlinj^  the  aliove-nientioned   report   pi-ovision  ho 
made  hy  Con^^ressto  furnish  to  the  Treasury  l^epartini'nl  Ihr'ee  Ihonsand  (.'l.iinu)  eopies. 
Very  respeclfnlly, 

('.  S.  FAlHCllil.l), 

.Iflintj  Srcrrfdii/. 
lion.  .1.  (!.  ('AKMHhR, 

Upriikfr  Ifoiixf  iif  l\'('i)n:sfnl(ilirrK,   l\'ii:..'.  iiujloii,  />.  ('. 

8 


I).  K<   <<i.  n  ■ 


U.S.  KEV  ICNUK  I  LTTlik  '  I  UK\MN."    Ulil'ARTUKE  FOR  ALASKA. 


OL'.\  ALASKA. 


R  E  3^  O  K  T 

OK  TIIK 


CRUISE    OF   THE   STEAMER    CORWIN. 


U.  S.  Rkvknuk  Marine  Steamer  Corwin, 

Sir  :  I  hiivc  the  hoiiDV  to  suhmif  llic  rullnwint;-  r<']M>rt  of  tlu'  Aliiskiiii  ami  Arctic  cruise  of 
the  U.  S.  ReveniiG  Murine  steamer  Corifin.  midcr  my  commiiiid.  diiriiiK  tlic  summer  of  1885. 

The  Coiii-in  left  Sfiu  Frauciscr),  ("a!.,  on  tlicaftcniooii  of  April  •.'!i,  ami  arrived  at  ( )unalaska 
May  ii,  liaviu^  madt-  I  lie  jiassaf^c  in  leu  aud  on('-(|iiartci' days. 

Ti»e  voyage,  aside  from  tii(>  rough  weatlier  usually  cxiicrieiiced  on  a  trij)  of  tliis  kind,  was 
devoid  of  any  incident  worthy  of  particular  mention  until  llie  last  day.  About  -J  o'clock  in 
themorningof  the  !itli  of  May,  Francis  Mc('anlt\v.  the  seaman  on  lookout,  was  suddenly  tlirown 
ovei'lioard  by  the  motion  of  tlie  vessel,  which  was  I'olljnt,' ilee]i  in  the  trough  of  the  sea.  The 
engine  was  immediately  stopped  and  revei'sed.  a  life-huoy  thrown  overboard,  and  two  boats 
promptly  lowered  to  re.scue  him.  but  all  without  .avail.  We  renniined  in  the  vicinitj-  of  the 
accident,  our  boats  ;)ulling  to  and  fi'o.  for  four  and  one-half  lioni's,  ;ind  then  steamed  aliead  for 
Ounalaska,  where  we  arrived  at  '.<  o'clock  that  evening.  Tlie  deceased  bore  a  most  excellent 
reputation,  and  his  tragic  and  sad  death  cast  a  gloom  over  our  ship  for  many  tlays. 

A  few  days  after  our  arrival  at  ( )unalaska.  tlie  bark  .1  tidiific  was  sighted  outside,  endeavor- 
ing toenter  the  liartxir.  There  being  no  pilots  in  tlie  \icinity.  and  knowing  that  thecai)tain  was 
unac()Uiiinted  with  those  waters.  I  went  to  his  assistani  ■and  piloted  the  .-l//f///y/c  into  ( )U7ialaska 
Harbor.  She  had  been  injured  by  the  ice  and  was  then  leaking  badly,  and  was  obliged  to  enter 
l)ort  to  make  repairs.  While  in  jxtrt  we  lent  every  aid  to  expedite  the  work  oH  repairing,  and 
memlx'rs  of  our  crew  assisted  in  blacksniithing  and  cai|ientry. 

At  Ounalaska  we  took  on  board  a  supply  of  coal  and  water,  ami  left  on  the  morning  of  the 
14th  of  May.  intending  to  visit  the  island  of  Attou.  the  westernmost  of  the  Aleutian  grouj), 
and  on  our  n'turn  to  stop  at  the  settlements  between  Attou  and  ()unahiska. 

When  we  were  olf  Cape  (!heerfnl  it  was  found  that  the  engine  worked  very  badly.  The 
vessel  was  put  under  sail  and  the  engines  stop])ed  and  uncoui)led,  and  a  preliminary  examina- 
tion disclosed  a  crack  in  the  crank-pin,  compelling  us  to  work  hack  to  Ounalaska  under  sail. 
After  arriving  in  port,  a  careful  and  thoi-ougti  examination  was  made  by  the  chief  engineer, 
who  reported  tlie  crank-pin  broken  in  a  daiigei'ons  manner,  and  that  it  would  be  neces.sary 
to  hav(!  it  rejjaired  before  continuing  our  cruise  north.  After  much  reflection  and  with  a 
great  deal  of  regret,  we  started  hack  to  San  Francisco  to  make  repairs,  leaving  Lieutenant 
Cantwell  and  two  seamen  at  Ounalaska  with  instructions  to  take  passage  on  the  steamer  <SY. 
I'iiiil  to  Otter  Island,  there  to  jjrotect  seal  life  during  the  ahsence  of  the  vessel. 

We  arrived  in  San  Francisco  May  28,  and  on  the  following  day,  acting  under  telegraphic 
instructions  from  the  Department,  I  awarded  the  contract  for  repairs  to  the  RLsdon  Iron  Works 
of  San  Francisco,  the  work  to  be  comi)leted  in  not  more  than  eight  days.  The  company's  em- 
ployes lahored  niglit  and  day.  and  tinished  the  work  in  one  week,  in  such  a  workmanlike 
manner  that  it  lias  given  entire  satisfaction  since. 


6  CRUISE  OF  THE  STEAMER  CORWIN. 

The  repairs  having  been  conipkfted  on  tlie  4th  of  June,  we  left  San  Francisco  at  10  o'clock 
that  evening,  and  again  started  for  the  Alt^utian  Islands. 

Wo  arrived  at  Oiuiaiuska  June  17.  coalt'd  and  watered  ship,  and  received  on  board  one 
hidarka  (skin  boat)  for  tlie  use  of  the  expedition  uj)  the  Noiltak  River. 

The  volcano  of  Bogoslolf  was  visittsd  June  11).  The  general  a[ipearance  of  the  volcano  is 
not  changed  from  that  of  a  year  ago.  but  its  activity  is  somewhat  lessened.  The  height  of  the 
lower  peak  of  New  Bogoslotf  was  ascertained  to  be  four  liundred  and  tifty  feet  abo^'o  the  sea- 
level,  and  that  of  the  higher  peak  estimated  about  soventy-tive  feet  more,  both  peaks  being 
inaccessible  on  account  of  the  steam  and  the  fumes  of  sulphurous  oxide  in  vrhich  they  are  en- 
veloped. 

Cruising  northward  from  Bogosloff,  we  touched  at  St.  George's  and  St.  Paul's  Islands  on 
June  20,  and  at  the  latter  place  Second  Lieutenant  Benham  was  detailed  for  duty  on  Otter  Island 
to  relieve  Third  Lieutenant  Cant  well.  - 

Mr.  C.  H.  Townseud.  naturalist  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  who  was  at  St.  T  "^"s 
Island,  requested  that  lie  be  taken  on  board  the  Vonciii  for  passage  to  the  Arctic,  'le 

him  to  make  ichthyological  and  ornitliological  collecticju.-t  in  tiiat  country.  As  thai  pai't  of 
the  country  was  an  entirely  new  field  for  a  naturalist,  and  believing  that  Mr.  Townsend's 
labors  would  be  of  great  value  to  science  and  of  much  interest  to  the  public,  I  received  him  on 
board  to  accompany  Lieutenant  Cautwell  on  liis  expedition  up  the  Kowak  River. 

Wo  consulted  with  the  liovernment  agents  on  the  islands  and  learned  that  no  marauding 
vessels  had  been  seen  in  tlie  vicinity  uj)  to  that  tinu*.  They  also  stated  that  the  seals  had  com- 
menced to  haul  up  on  the  islands,  witliout  any  i)ercepti1.1e  (liniinuti(m  from  previous  years. 

We  remained  in  the  vicinity  of  the  seal  islands  for  several  days;  then  continued  our 
cruise  to  the  northward  iind  eastward,  toudiing  at  St.  Michael's  and  Oolwin  Bay. 

At  St.  Midiael's  we  took  on  board  an  Indian  interpreter  to  accompany  Lieutenant  Cant- 
well's  expedition.  Nothing  had  transpired  at  St.  Michael's  since  last  year  which  would  require 
our  interference.  The  health  of  the  white  people  was  excellent,  and  the  Indians  were  peace- 
able and  friendly. 

At  Golwin  Bay  First  Lieutenant  Hall  and  Siirgeon  Yemans  were  dispatciied  to  visit  the 
mining  camp  tt)  ascertain  the  condition  of  the  white  men  and  Indians  tliere,  and  to  render 
medical  aid  if  such  was  lequired.  Lieutenant  Hall  found  but  one  man  at  the  mine,  Mr. 
Mackey,  who  had  remained  there  all  winter  in  order  to  uuike  good  tlie  claim  of  the  Golwin 
Bay  Mining  Company.  Mr.  Mackey  visited  the  vessel,  and  reported  that  the  natives  were 
peaceful  and  that  he  had  experienced  no  ditliculty  in  getting  along  with  them.  He  also 
reported  the  mines  as  very  rich,  with  an  inexhaustible  (|uantity  of  ore.  The  specimens  which 
have  been  assayed  i)rove  very  rich,  but  the  result  cannot  as  yet  be  foreseen.  The  company 
have  b ''en  to  considerable  expense  in  working  the  mine,  and  have  lost  two  vessels  thus  far. 
A  more  thoroughly  organized  company,  consisting  of  fifteen  miners  and  superintendent,  with 
suitable  supplies  and  ecjuipments  for  one  year,  arrived  at  the  mine  the  day  of  our  departure, 
and  from  them  better  results  are  anticijiated.  The  great  distan(^e  of  the  mine  fi'om  civilization 
is  a  very  decided  disadvantage.  The  mine  is  situated  on  the  Fish  River,  about  thirty  miles 
from  the  mouth,  and  the  shallowness  of  the  water  makes  it  a  nuitter  of  no  little  difficulty  to 
convey  the  ore  from  the  mine  to  the  ves.sel,  which  takes  it  to  San  Francisco  for  smelting. 

Thei'e  are  tliose  who  i)rophesy  that  the  Indians  will  eventually  molest  the  minors  in  their 
operati(ms.  If  any  such  ditficulty  does  occur,  it  will,  I  tliiuk.  be  brought  about  by  some  overt 
act  on  their  part,  as  the  Indians  are  generally  well-behaved  and  iieaceable,  and  not  unaccus- 
tomed to  mingling  with  white  men.  If  there  is  any  trouble  it  will  be  caused  by  the  introduc- 
tion of  liquor  among  the  Indians  or  the  total  disregard  of  their  persoi.al  family  rights,  which, 
in  all  Indian  territory,  the  whites  .seem  to  ignore. 

After  leaving  Golwin  Bay  we  touched  at  Sledge  Island  and  King's  Island,  and  on  June  27 
anchored  off  our  coaling  station  at  Point  Spencer. 

At  Point  Spencer  we  found  tiu^  bark  Wdmlerev  and  the  schooner  Page,  both  whaling 
vessels,  and  also  the  schooner  J(«me.s  A.  Oarfield,  which  brings  supplies  to  a  portion  of  the 
Arctic  whaling  fleet. 


M.  Kx.  m,  .,()  I 


GROUr  OF  NATIVES  AND  ri'-CorNTKV  INDIANS,  ST.  MHIIAliLS. 


If   E«.  153,49  I 


f 

1 


MYIJNIK  (INTERPRETER). 


r 


/ 


I(.  Kl.   n\.  4g  I 


HOUUSLOV  ISl.WK,  NhW  KNU,  IIKAKIN'ti  N.  W.  HV  N. 


'^,.*.._ 


BOGOSLOVV  ISLAND,  OLD  KNU,  BEARING  K.  HV  S. 


II  l'.< 


■  '    ,    i-r*^ :   ^^■ 


^^    '-■■V?'"^-''*~.>**.'^'^'".  "->4.«1*? 


HOGOSl.UV  ISLANU,  SAM.  K(>(  K.  IIK.\l<l.\li  S.  K 


H(J(;OSI.{)\'   ISI.A.M),  NKW  I.NI),  HI.AKI.S(;  .\.   W    ItV  N. 


0RUI8K  OF  THE  8TEAMEU  CDRWIN.  7 

Till'  wliiilinj?  vi-fiw'lM  l»r»iuK'i<  •l'>wu  ll»i«  ih'Wh  i«f  ihti  Idhm  of  tlic  ImrkH  ^/<i :«■//«  iiikI  .\Vi/»«»/<fo«, 
iKtth  III'  which  wtTi'  (TiiMhi'il  in  (lii>  ire  I'lirly  in  Ihf  K\>n\\n,  tlif  hklt.T  hMin^  twfiity-two  imm. 

Wi«  wiit<'i'i«l  iiii<l  cdulo)!  Nliip  lit  I'diiit  H|H<iii'i<i'  1(11(1  riMiili'i'fil  nicilicitl  iMMiHiKiico  t4i  thoM  of 
t)i)>  wintliii;;  lli'i't  thut  ri>i|uiri>ii  it. 

Thn  Mti'Hiii  whiilciH  Unlifiiii  iiihI  Orvii,  nml  tli»»  hiirkH  Hfh'n  Mm;  Jitrnb  A.  Hdii'IuhiI,  ami 
h'ltvtiviinis  arrived  at  I'oiiit  Hiiciicnr  during  <'iir  Ntay,  iiml  wi>n<  h()iiril«<l  iiml  i>xiiriiiii<<<|  hy  iih. 

.Iiiiii' :iw  wit  li*ft  Point  S|M<iii'iM',  (ii\ichi<il  lit  till'  l)i4iiMi'<l(>  IshtiiiU,  luid  on  •Inly  I  unchortMl 
in  Ki>t/,itlMi)t  Hnnml,  ntT  lluthiun  Inlt'l. 

AllliiMi^h  Ihi*  ico  wiiH  I'l'iiurtnl  hy  tin-  vvhiili'i's  I'ltriy  in  tin*  HciiHun  iih  ))i>in)<  )i)>nvy  tin<l  fiii'lhor 
Hinitli  tliirt  yi'iir  <ni  the  Kihoriiiu  cdiut  thiin  Iuik  hiHin  known  l'<<r  inimy  yi'iii-H.  thf  I'ltnvin,  crniH- 
\nn  iniir)i  later  iilonf^  thx  AliiNkim  Mlinro,  diil  not  i<n(*oiiiit»>i'  it  until  tht>  ivftKinooii  of  July  1,  in 
liitifndo  (i(i "  47'  N.,  or  iihont  (iftccn  inih'M  north  of  tlu'  Arctic  Circle;  iitnl  tlicn.  iiltln)nKl>  onr 
progrtiHs  waH  somewhat  n'tar<h«|,  it  did  not  prevent  onr  entrance  into  Kotzelnn"  Honnd. 

Thoday  aftt*r  our  arrival  in  Kot/elnnt  Sound  liieutenautC'autwidl  and  Mr.  IViwiiNeud,  with 
the  Nteain-iaiinch  and  two  men,  left  the  vcMMel  with  MnpplieH  and  ontlit  to  continue  the  explora- 
tion of  the  Kowak  Kiver,  which  waH  iie^nn  liy  iiienlenant  Card  well  la.st  year. 

At  SheHhaiik.  where  thi<  natives  oC  thecoaxtand  interior  rende/.vous  lor  the  purpose  of 
trading  and  tisliiuK.  no  Indians  had  at  that  time  arrived,  and  consideraMe  ditlicully  was  experi- 
enced in  ohtainiuK  a Muilalile  l)oat  I'or  the  nsiof  thi>  Kowak  Kiver' expeilitiori.  Orn- (d' a  very 
iid'erior  nature  was  limiily  proc\ir  'd  an<l  paid  I'or  in  trade  ^oods. 

On  the  .same  day  Assistard  KiiKiueer  McKenejraii  and  seaman  Nelson  left  the  vessel  witli 
the  skin  boat  r'oceived  at  Oirnalaska  to  nrake  an  explor'ation  of  tlie  Noiltak,  a  river  which  up 
to  that  time  had  never  heen  ascended  hy  a  white  man. 

After  landing  these  expeditions  and  their  supplies,  and  KeeiiiK  tlieiu  properly  Hturtedv  we 
cruised  aloiiK  the  coast  to  Point  Hope,  thetute  an  far  as  latitridrt  (!!»'  )Vi'  N.,  loriKitinle  174"  1ft'  W. 
Thei'e  We  met  the  ice,  packed  solid  iw  far  as  the  eye  could  i-e.ich  fr'oin  masthead,  arrd  nrakirr^ 
pi'ii^r'ess  farther  nor-th  im possible.  <  )it  our'  r'eturn  we  fell  in  w  ilh  a  lot  <if  wali'us  and  two  polar 
liear's.  to  which  the  sur'^^eori  air<l  I  jj^ave  chase,  lint  did  not  succeed  in  ca)iturin^  any. 

The  harks  Aliniiii  Hnrki-r  and  S/iinifiinif  wer'e  spoken,  arrd  also  hoarded  and  examirnul, 
Meilical  aid  was  rendered  to  an  ollii'er  of  \\w  Stuiii'xml  who  was  somewhat  demented,  nrid  who, 
a  lew  days  later',  conrmitted  siricide.  Iir  this  connection  I  may  state  that  I  havt<  noticed  that 
in.sanity  is  inor'e  fr'e(|nent  pr'oportionally  arnorrK  the  for'i  mast  Irarrds  id'  whaling-vessels  than 
amoiiK  any  other  class  of  seafarinn  men. 

AnioirK  'he  r'escued  cr^ws  hr'oUKlit  dmvii  at  ilitYei-enl  times  l>y  the  Citrwiii  I  have  fr-eipiently 
observed  slight  symptoms  of  insairity,  and  this  has  also  been  noticed  by  the  sirr'^eon  of  this  ves- 
sel when  visiting  vessels  of  the  whaling  fleet  pi'ofessionally.  Whether  these  men  iwesoatHicted 
when  they  ship,  oi'  whether'  their'  aflliclion  is  snpei'indnced  by  the  str'iiiri  to  which  they  ai'o 
subjected  while  in  the  vicirrity  of  the  ice.  I  am  unable  to  say,  birt  1  think  the  latter  the  morn 
jM'obable. 

Fr'orir  the  time  of  leaviuKtlu'  ice-piu'k  until  our  return  to  Point  S((encer,.ltdyH,  the  weather 
was  extr'ernely  foKK.V.  makiir^j  our'  pi'oj^e.ss  very  slow  and  r-eijuiriiiK  K''''"^  precaution.  On 
arriving  at  Point  Spencer'  we  foirnd  sever'al  additional  ves.sels  of  the  wlialin^^  lleel  i'ende/,\oiised 
for' the  pirrpo.se  of  shippin><  their  oil  and  bone  and  of  r'eceiviri^j  sujipl'res  from  the  t>eiid(<r  that 
went  thei'e  to  meet  theirr.  Some  of  the  wlialer-s  had  also  j.{one  into  Point  Hjieiicer  for  the  jair- 
poseof  makiuji  r'cpair's,  haviri)r  be(>ir  damap'd  by  corning  in  contact  witli  ice.  'Die  steam  wlialer 
Hdld'nit  had  injured  her  stern  and  bows,  the  steamer  ThrnHhcr  had  her  propeller  berrt,  'ind  the 
bark  Arnolda  was  jiartially  ntove  forward.  The  vessels  were  damaged  hy  ice  on  the  »Siheriari 
coast  early  in  the  season,  arrd  all  succeeded  in  making  tem|»oi'ai'y  r'epaii's  wliile'at  Point  Sjiencei-. 

The  scdi.iorier  ./uiiics  .1.  (Utr.ticid  left  fiU'  San  Fr'anci.sco  on  the  rrror'iung  of  July  !  1,  taking 
the  mail  and  a  part  of  the  natch  of  the  Pacific  steam  whaliiiK  fleet. 

After  coaling  and  v\  itering  at  Point  Spencer,  we  left  tlier'e  at  4  o'clock  in  the  morning  of 
July  \\\,  and  soon  after  met  the  whaling  bark  Ihiini.  trying  to  make  a  harbor.  From  the  cap- 
tain of  the  Daivn  1  lear-ned  that  his  vessel  was  very  badly  ir\jured  by  the  ice,  and  upon  his 
request  for  asaistauce  we  took  the  Dawn  iu  tow  for  Qrautley  Harbor. 


8  fllUlHIC  OK  TlIK  STKAMKH  ("ORWIN. 

Tho  t'litnvnro  to  (Iranlli'y  Hurl)!)!-  liciiif^  very  nari-ow.  considnivililei  difficulty  waH  foiiiKl  in 
tiutoriiijj;,  MuTc  lioiiiji  two  hIiouI  iiliiccs  on  citlicr  sidooT  tlui  ohiimud.  with  not  iiioro  (liaii  tw«) 
and  11  ([iiartor  fathoms  of  wator.  Tiit!  hark  K'"*>"'>'lk'<J  '^t  lO.HO  in  tii«  morning,  and  it  was  not 
until  4  o'clock  in  the  nTtcrnoon,  when  the  tide  rose,  that  we  succeeded  in  huulinK  iier  afloat.  In 
tiio  mean  time  two  of  onr  iioats.  in  charge  of  otlicers.  had  sonnded  ont  the  i't>mainder  of  thet'han- 
nel  and  located  temporary  buoys,  thus  enabling  us  to  tow  tho  bark  into  tho  harbor  without 
furtlier  detention. 

Wo  r(>niaini'd  in  (Irantley  Harhoi'  the  next  thirty-six  hcnirs,  during  which  timo  the  oftlcers 
and  crew  sounded  out  the  entire  cliaiinel  and  placed  ranj^e  beacons  alon^  the  shove  to  nuvrk 
the  enti-ance  to  the  hari)or.  Althoui,'!)  tin*  iiai'i)or  is  entirely  land-locked,  th(i  shallowness  of 
the  water  at  its  «'nti'UMcc  makes  it  unsei'viceabht  for  vess<'ls  of  any  (Irau^ht. 

We  left  (irantley  Unrlvur  July  lA,  having  lirst  sent  ont>  of  our  crew  on  board  the  Dnini  to 
a,ssist  in  neces.^ary  blacksmith  work,  and  leaving  with  him  a  tent  and  suitplies,  with  instructions 
to  await  our  return  on  shore  in  case  of  the  depart\ire  of  the  thiini  before  our  arrival. 

We  t(nn-hc'  '  Kinfi:'s  Island,  ("ape  Priiu-e  )f  Wales,  jind  Kast  ('uix'.  tlu'U  crniseil  to  ilie 
southward  alonjf  tne  Siberian  coast  and  entered  8t.  Lawrence  and  Mechiji;me  Bays.  Thence 
we  steamed  through  Honiavine  Sti-aits  to  and  aroimd  St.  Lawrence  Island  aiid  back  to  Point 
Spencer,  where  we  arrived  on  the  'H'dh  of  July. 

During  (nir  absence  we  maile  sevt>ral  explorations,  the  result  of  which  will.  I  think,  be  of 
muc\  value  to  Arctic  navigation. 

As  the  whaling  fleet  o]>eri\tes  along  the  Siberian  coast  iliiving  a  consideraV)le  part  of  the 
whaling  season,  it  is  necessary  that  they  should  have  some  near  harlior  to  enter  for  rejiairs 
when  injured  by  the  ice.  No  such  harbor  was  positivi^ly  known  to  them,  but  they  had  heard 
that  there  was  a  harbor  oil'  the  village!  of  Whalen,  on  the  noi'fli  side  of  East  Cape. 

When  at  F.ast  Cape  1  sent  an  oflicer  to  niake  areconnaissanc(!  of  the  supiuised  harbor,  with 
a  view  to  estal)lish  a  I'efuge  for  the  lli>(>t.  At  tln^  entrance*  of  what  proved  to  b(*  a  lagoon  about 
eight  nul(!s  long  but  ten  fec^t  of  water  wa.i  found,  and  that  was  th(<  greatest  depth  obtained 
inside,  while  that  part  of  the  lagoon  exteniling  east  from  the  entrance  was  almost  entirely  tilled 
with  shoals.  The  shallowness  of  thi-  water  at  the  entrance  of  this  lagoon  precludes  its  use  as 
a  harl)or. 

At  Mechigme  Bay,  however,  about  eighty  miles  down  the  coast,  an  entirely  different  and 
most  satisfacfiM'y  n'sult  was  obtained.  .At  the  entrance  to  (he  bay  fourteen  falhonisof  water 
was  found,  and  on  (lie  inside  live  fathoms  can  be  carried  for  several  miles.  This  harbor,  !)eing 
entirely  landlocked,  affords  protection  from  the  wind  from  any  direction,  and  is,  in  my  opinion, 
the  best  harbor  niu'th  of  the  Altnitiaii  Islands. 

When  steaming  through  Seniavine  Straits  a  reef  was  di.sc(>v«n'ed  between  Nouneangane 
and  Ittygrave  Islands,  extending  in  a  noi'theasf  and  southwest  diiection.  a  very  dangerous  ob- 
struction to  navigation,  not  being  laid  down  on  the  chart.  An  oflicer  of  the  vessel  in  .sounding 
found  the  reef  very  rocky  with  but  two  and  a  half  fathoms  of  water  over  it. 

The  result  of  oni- labors  in  Mechigtne  Bay  and  Seniavine  Straits,  with  the  souiulings  ob- 
tained by  us  along  the  Siberian  and  Alaskan  coasts,  will  be  gi vi'U  to  the  Hydrograidiic  Otlice  in 
this  city. 

On  the  27'th  of  ,Tuly  the  D((ifii.  having  compl(>ted  rejiairs,  l(>ft  Point  Sjieucer  to  return  to 
the  whaling-gromiils.  Thi'ee  of  her  ciew  hail  desi>rt(Mi.  iind  the  captain  riMpu-sted  the  cutt(>r  to 
pick  them  up  and  I'eturn  them  to  their  ves.sel.  Accordingly,  the  diiy  after  tlie  departure  of  tlu< 
yjrncH,  the  nu'n  wer(>  taken  on  board  ami  kept  until  we  should  again  meet  that  vessel.  The 
nn?n  claimef]  that  the  Ihnni  was  unseiiworthy.  and  stated  that  on  that  acoount  tliey  had  <le.serteil, 
as  they  did  not  c<uisider  it  safe  to  remain  in  lier.  They  were  tnrniMl  to  with  our  own  crew,  and 
a  (Government  ration  served  to  thei7i  while  they  remained  on  board. 

(^wing  to  a  strong  northerly  gale  we  were  comjielled  to  ivmain  <nie  week  at  Point  Spencer 
before  we  conlil  coal  and  water  ship.  We  left  Point  Siiencei-  .August  -i.  touched  at  Ca])e 
Prince  of  Wales  and  th(>  Dionu'de  Islands,  and  on  the  following  day  anchored  off  llotham  Inlet. 
Kotzebue  Sound.  Here  we  landed  supplies  for  tlie  use  of  the  two  expeditions  oil  tlieir  return 
from  the  Kowak  and  Noiitak  Ri\ei-s. 


II.  Ex.  I5J,  47 


Mois '£M*^'r'<' Co /^ : 


VIEW  OK  LAKli  .\.\U  MOLINr.MNS,  lil.AU  OK  GkANTLEV   KIVEK. 


,iWi*!*»» 


1 


su-,^i*»' 


^*«^a 


^^t' 


FAIRWAY  KUC  K,  IIEIIKIN'J  .STRAIT,  N.  UV  K. 


II.  I'.x    151.  49  1 


UKVi.Nc.  I'lsii  A  r  (iKw  ri.i'.\'  iixkhok. 


VIEW  Ol'    I  AKli  ANU  MOl  NlAlNS,  UliAl)  ill    (.KAN  I  I.KV   KUKK. 


CRUISE  OF  TFIE  STEAMER  CORWTN.  9 

From  Kotzel)UP  Sound  wn  cruistid  along  the  coast  to  the  nortliward  and  touched  at  Point 
Hoi"',  watered  ship  at  ()ai)e" Lewis,  and  anclioreil  off  (!aj)e  Lishurne  cnalinK  station.  This 
Htation  wo  snijplied  witli  a  small  (juaiitity  ol'  medicines  and  a  lew  other  necessary  urtielee,  then 
resumed  unr  cruising  to  the  northward  along  the  coast.  At  ',i  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  of 
August  !»,  when  about  lit'teen  miles  noi-tli  of  Icy  Cape,  we  encountered  heavy  drift-ice,  but  suc- 
ceeded in  working  our  way  through  it,  anil  at  7.45  that  evening  came  to  anchor  oil"  Point 
Marsli,  amongst  the  whaling  tlei^t  of  about  thirty  vessels. 

The  captain  of  the  first  vessel  s])oken  repcn'ted  that  some  of  the  fleet  were  in  the  ice-pack 
and  could  not  get  out.  After  cruising  amongst  the  fleet  I  f'onnil  that  tlu^  re])ort  was  without 
fonnilation.  all  of  the  vessels  being  out  of  danger.  Some  of  them,  however,  were  compelled 
to  shift  anclnjr  occasionally  to  avoid  the  heavy  ice,  which  was  then  drifting  to  the  northward 
about  one  au<l  one-half  miles  per  hour. 

The  following  day.  August  Id,  was  the  7uost  eventful  of  the  season,  and  will  long  bo  remem- 
bered by  the  whaling  fleet  and  tile  clew  of  tlie  C'orifin  as  a  day  of  calamities.  The  day  com- 
menced bright  and  cleai-,  with  a  light  to  gentle  breeze  blowing  from  the  east.  About  1 1  o'clock 
in  the  morning  the  weatlier  was  very  .scjually,  the  wind  hauling  gradually  to  the  southward 
an<l  increasing  in  force  every  moment. 

At  noon  a  boat  belonging  to  the  bark  Abram  Barker,  having  brought  mail  on  board  the 
Cnrwin.  started  to  return  to  the  bark.  She  had  proceeded  but  a  short  di.stance  wjien  she  was 
suddenly  capsized  by  a  heavy  s(iiuill,  and  the  occui)ants.  consisting  of  the  second  mate  and  Ave 
men,  were  left  struggling  in  the  water.  The  accident  being  observed  on  board  this  vessel,  the 
surf-boat  was  ])romptly  lowered,  and,  in  charge  of  Third  Lieutenant  Kennedy,  went  to  the 
rescue.  The  men  weic  all  hauled  in  the  boat  and  after  nuich  hard  j)ulling against  the  wind  and 
sea  were  safely  landetl  on  hoard  the  b.irk  lli'U-ii  Mar.  that  being  the  nearest  vessel  to  the  scene 
of  the  accident,  and  on  board  of  which  the  doctor  was  then  othciallv  visiting. 

The  wind  cfintinued  to  increa.se,  and  by  'i  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  had  developed  into  a 
sti'ong  SSW.  gale.  The  majority  of  the  whaling  fleet  were  now  underway,  working  under 
short  sail.  Some  of  them  pai'teil  and  othei's  slippeil  their  cables,  not  lieingabh^  to  heave  them 
in  on  account  of  tlie  very  rough  sea  and  strong  tide. 

At  ;i  o'clock  the  hark  (Icinuic  iiiid  Sii.saii.  which  was  at  anchor,  parted  one  of  her  cables  and 
began  to  drag.  Sail  was  put  on  her  and  every  effort  made  to  get  her  outof  danger,  but  before 
she  could  be  got  luider  way  she  d.-agged  afVad  of  the  bark  Mabel,  which  was  at  anchor  near 
by,  carrying  away  tlu^  jilibooni  and  all  the  hea<l  gear  of  the  George  and  Siisau.  and  breaking 
the  Mahel'-s  mainyard. 

The  (Seonie  (,ii(l  Siin'Iii  then  wen,"  aslioi'c.  striking  very  hai'd  on  the  beach,  and  in  less  tlian 
three  hours  had  seven  feet  of  water  ii  her  hold.  When  sht>  struck,  some  of  her  crew,  in  their 
excitement,  cleared  away  two  boats,  .iumixul  into  them,  and  headed  for  the  shore. 

A  very  heavy  sui'f  was  I'unniug  on  the  beach,  which  swamiwd  both  ])oats  and  drowned 
three  of  their  crew.  The  remaindt'r  succeeded  in  landing  on  shore  in  an  exhausted  and  semi- 
conscious stat(>:  ill  fact,  some  of  them  were  in  an  exceedingly  critical  condition  for  several 
hours  after  landing. 

At  ;!.4.")  we  got  under  way  and  steamed  down  toward  the  George  and  Susan  to  see  if  we 
could  render  any  assistance  to  her  or  any  other  vessel  of  the  fleet.  C)bserving  that  the  Mahel 
was  in  what  I  considei'ed  an  extremely  dangerous  position,  we  entered  the  breakers  and  anchored 
near  her  in  four  and  a  <|uarter  fathoms  of  water  with  ninety  fathoms  of  chain  While  in  the 
breakers  the  (^oririn  shi])])ed  a  very  heavy  sea  over  her  starboard  quarter  which  swejjt 
clear  toi'ward  to  the  forecastle*.  Our  surf-bf)at  was  made  ready  with  a  picked  crew,  and  then, 
steaming  ahefid  to  windward  of  the  M(d>el  to  a  full  scope  of  chain,  the  boat  was  lowered,  with 
Mr.  Dougl;iss.  the  jiilot.  in  charge,  to  run  a  small  line  to  the  Mahel.  Notwithstanding  the 
h(»avy  sea  ami  the  strong  wind  and  tide,  he  succeeded  in  running  the  line  in  a  most  admirable 
and  seamanlike  manner.  A  large  hawser  was  bent  to  the  running  line,  but  before  it  could  be 
hauled  on  l)oard  the  Mabel  she  ]),irted  her  cable  and  drifted  towards  the  shore.  Her  head 
sails  wer(>  hoisted  and  every  endeavor  used  to  work  her  into  (hx*])  watcu".  Before  she  could  be 
got  about  she  struck  very  hard  un  the  bar  and  then  went  ashore  broadside  on,  about  one 
H.  Ex.  153 -i 


10  CRUISE  OF  THE  STEAMER  CORWIN. 

quarter  of  a  mile  nortli  of  tlio  Gcoiyf  (tiid  Snn(tii.  Tlic  hwi  ))roke  over  her  from  stem  to  stem, 
and  in  less  tlian  tJiirty  niinutcH  lier  musts  Imtl  «'"»"»  **lii'  bilged  and  tilled  with  water,  and 
became  a  total  wn^k. 

After  she  struck  we  shifted  our  position  to  a  more  safe  and  secure  andiorage.  At  8  o'clock 
that  eveninff,  wlwii  tlie  K'^'''  bud  somewhat  abated,  a  boat  from  this  vtwsel,  in  charge  of  First 
Lieutenant  Hall,  afcomi)anied  l»y  Dr.  Vemans,  visite<I  the  wrecked  men  on  shore  and  botli  of 
the  wrecke<l  vessels.  Onshore  the  surgeon  rendered  valuable  medical  aid  to  those  men  of  the 
(feorge and  Siistius  crew  that  were  sutVering  from  the  sevt^ro  exposure  which  they  had  under- 
gone. 

The  Mabel'ft  crew  abaiuloned  the  vessel  after  she  was  wrecked  and  took  refuge  in  a  tent 
which  they  had  erected  on  shore,  or  in  some  of  the  Indian  huts.  Their  passage  to  the 
shore  was  attended  with  great  ilit!iculty,  on  account  of  the  heavy  surf,  and  they  were  obliged 
to  run  a  line  from  the  vessel  to  the  shore  for  the  guidance  of  their  boats. 

On  board  the  (ii-orgi'  and  ,Su.s<in  the  conditicms  were  more  favorable,  anil  her  crew,  with 
the  exception  of  thostt  that  took  to  the  boats  in  the  excitement  when  the  vessel  (irst  struck, 
were  enal)led  to  remain  on  board  during  tiie  night.  Although  she  was  also  bilged,  her  between- 
decks  and  cabin  were  dry  and  (•omi)aratively  comfortable. 

At  II  o'clock  tliiit  night,  at  tlu>  reijuest  of  the  ca)>tains  of  tlu^  wrecked  vessels,  we  got 
nnder  way  anil  steamed  to  the  northward  for  the  purpose  of  asking  the  steamer  Belcidcre  to 
take  the  oil  from  the  Mdhi'l.  and  the  bark  Ohio  to  take  that  of  the  (ieotye  and  Sn.san,  or  that 
portion  of  theii'  cargoes  that  could  be  saved. 

The  Ht'lridi'if  in  resi)onse  steamed  down  to  the  vicinity  of  the  Maheh  but  the  captain  of 
the  (ihio  said  it  was  then  ini])ossibli'  for  him  to  goto  the  (Iconje  and  Susdti  on  account  of  the 
head  wind  and  tide,  and  that  he  might  not  be  able  to  do  so  foi-  a  week. 

At  2  o'clock  the  following  morning  we  anchoreil  alongside  the  Ohio,  and  at  4  o'clock,  at 
the  reipiest  of  the  ca|)tain,  got  under  way  with  that  vessel  in  tow,  he  l)eing  desirous  of  j)ro- 
ciiring,  for  the  benefit  of  his  owners,  that  portion  of  tht>  cargo  of  the  (h'(>r(je  (iiid  Snuan  that 
could  be  saved. 

After  towing  the  Ohio  and  iinchoring  her  near  the  (h'nr(i<>  and  Susan,  we  went  about  to 
the  northward  toward  Point  Fi'anklin  to  assist  those  vessels  that  bad  either  parted  or  slipped 
their  cables  during  the  gale  and  had  thus  become  virt\nilly  disabled.  This  a.Hsistance  I  deemed 
necessary,  knowing  if  the  wind  should  come  from  the  southward  the  vessels  would  either  have 
to  go  on  the  beach  or  entei"  the  ice-pack,  which  in  either  case  would  ju'ove  their  destruction. 
<)wing  to  the  ice  and  strong  tides  a  vessel  on  the  east  coast  is  just  as  much  disabled  without 
anchors  as  if  she  were  witlumt  a  rudder.  As  we  steanuul  amongst  the  fleet  the  captains  of  those 
vessels  that  were  without  anchoi's  requested  our  a.ssistance  in  towing  them  back  to  their  anchor- 
age. They  also  stated  that  the  bai'k  Francis  I'ahiicr  was  farthest  to  the  northward,  and  con- 
seipu'iitly  in  the  greatest  dangei-.  They  were  then  informed  that  we  would  first  go  to  the 
assistance  of  the  Palmer,  and  on  our  return  would  take  them  in  tow. 

We  found  the  /Vf/;«c/"bi'ought  tootT  Point  Franklin,  in  close  ])roxii.nty  to  the  ice,  fluke-chains, 
blubber-hooks,  and  otlu>r  heavy  articles  having  '..cen  imjirovised  for  use  as  anchors.  Seeing  the 
dangerous  jiosition  of  the  vessel,  and  at  the  re(iuestof  her  captain  for  assistance,  .she  was  taken 
by  us  and  towed  to  her  formei'  anchorage  off  Waiiiwi'ight  Iidet,  where  she  soon  after  succeeded 
in  securing  her  amdiors  and  cables,  whiih  she  had  ])arted  during  the  gale. 

We  then  steamed  amongst  the  remainder  of  the  fleet,  but  inir  services  were  not  further 
required,  as  a  fair  wind  had  in  the  mean  time  sprung  uj)  which  enabled  the  ve.ssels  to  retiirn 
against  the  tide  to  their  lost  anchors. 

The  three  deserters  from  the  bark  Dawn,  before  mentioned  as  liaving  been  taken  on  board 
at  Point  Speneer,  were  returned  to  that  vess(>l  in  chai'ge  of  an  officer. 

Allegations  having  been  maile  by  the  deserters  against  the  captain  of  the  Datvn  concerning 
his  treatment  of  them,  the  officer  was  instnu-ted  to  inform  the  captain  of  tlie  charges  and  to 
warn  him  that  if  there  was  any  truth  in  them  lie  would  be  held  accountable  by  us,  as  it  was  a 
part  of  our  duty  to  secure  pnjper  treatment  of  crews  from  their  superiors. 

At  the  request  of  the  commanders  of  the  two  wrecked  vessels  for  transportation  for  them- 


H.  V.X.  151,  ^g  I 


r 


NAl'lVUb  Ul'    KlNI.'b  ISLANDS, 


ei^^r 


^^*r=--v^5^n'^ii^S;?^^^^^^'5^ 


MmZatJiLA 


KING'S  ISLAND,  HKARING  S.  W.  HV  W. 


II  li«.  IJJ, «  ' 


N.\T1\'KS  OK  I'OINT  ItAKROW. 


liik:  ^i£a#E 


'COM    SEAM         MKlNOlMi  OK  l  OAl.  IN  (  OKWINS  HOAiS. 


CRUISE  OK  Til  K  STEAM  KR  COR  WIN.  11 

HolvKH,  tlioir  oflliwrH,  ami  crt^wH  on  iMtiinl  IIih  Corivin  tu  San  FtunciHOo,  evAry  iTopnrution  wiut 
nimlt'  til  r(M'i'iv(«  tln'iii  itml  tu  |ini\  idc  lor  llmir  cDnifort.  Tlie  lixktuM  on  IIih  l)urtli-tle<k  wunt 
turn  iluwu  tinil  berths  i'rt-<ti'<l  lor  u  purl  ot  tiiu  utlitur^  of  IUuhu  vutuulu,  Inh'IIiu  buiug  pliuutl 
in  till*  caliin  lor  tint  two  niptiihiH. 

Tlu'  I'ollowinK  'lay,  AnnuMl  I'.',  wt<  i'»'ct<iv»'(|  on  lioani  a  ft'W  proviHionH  that  liad  ln'on  naviwl 
I'rotn  llio  (li'imic  itml  Sii.sitii,  aJHo  two  \vliikli<-lioatM.  wliicli  !  iii><>iiii«l  il  atlvinal)!)*  lo  liavo,  our 
own  Iniii  ^  licin^  ina<lt'(inatti  to  provhltt  lor  all  on  hoard  in  iNiHtiof  iliHaHtorto  thu  vchhoI.  Tliitt 
(ivi>iiin><  ami  thi>  ni>\l  day  tht*  captains,  olllt'itrs,  and  rrcwHttf  tlu*  wrnckcd  vcHmdHcanuton  hoard 
tho  CiirwiH  I'or  puHsant"  to  San  l'"ranriHfo. 

Ah  tliK  Dcpartnit'nl  last  year  roruscd  to  ri'inihurMt<  the  ward  room  oIliccrH  for  providing  tor 
thoMtt  otIii'i'rM  ol°  tlin  Hitivlii'iul  that  hail  ini'SMi>i|  with  thoin,  soiniMdijcctionH  wi>rn  niaih<  to  ri'cciv- 
in^  thx  ollicnrM  of  tho  two  vi-sHnis  i\\.  th*<ir  tahht.  Thnro  hoinx  »**  >'<>oni  forward  for  thoin,  and 
the  fort-cast Ic  tx'inj;  entirely  imsiiilaliie  for  an  olllc(-r,  they  were  received  into  the  cahin  iin'MM 
and  fed  at  my  pi-rsonal  exiMtuso,  tim  crowdud  tuiiditiou  of  tluicahin  nuiusHitating  the  sotting  of 
a  first  and  second  tahle. 

The  crews  of  lioth  vessels  as  they  came  (m  hoard  were  tolle<l  off  in  starlioard  and  port 
watches  with  onr  own  crew  and  a  (lovernment  ration  served  to  eacii  nuin.  dreat  care  was 
taken  that  no  distinction  Hlxnihl  he  made  eithur  in  work  or  food  hetwoen  thu  wrtjcked  men  and 
our  own  crew. 

One  man  was  taken  on  l)oard  from  the  lii'indoi'r,  he  hein^  greatly  in  need  of  medical 
attendance  and  inacM'iticul  condition,  lie  was  formerly  of  the  crew  of  the  hark  S'li/tiilfon, 
and  at  the  tinn' of  the  wreck  of  that  vessel  all  the  toes  of  hoth  feet  were  hadly  fro/.t-n.  He 
was  taken  on  hoard  the  /iV//«r/ccr,  and  his  condition  was  nucIi  that  his  toes  luul  to  he  ampn- 
tut  I'd.  There  l)eiu>{  no  surgeon  in  the  .Vrctic  or  within  sevi*ra!  hundred  miles  at  that  time,  the 
operation  was  performed  liy  Captain  Ihiker,  of  tht>  Ui'indci'r,  heiiiK  resorted  to  as  an  e.xtrenuj 
measure  and  one  actually  neciissary  to  savo  lifo.  After  tlm  imm  was  takon  on  ))oard  the  f'or- 
irin  a  further  amputation  was  found  necessary,  and  was  suhs(«pn'utly  performed  in  a  most 
skiiirui  and  professioiiiil  manner  hy  Dr.  Yeunms.  The  man  received  the  hest  possihie  cari'. 
his  feet  l)eiu><  dressed  each  day  hy  the  suri^'on,  and  (un>  of  the  C/row  Wart  detailed  |iarticular)''to 
attend  In  idl  his  wants.  Me  improved  rajtidiy  from  the  time  of  the  operation,  and  on  oui- arrival 
in  San  Kruncisco  was  sent  to  the  Uuiteil  Slales  uiuriuc  hospital. 

Ilavinj.;  received  on  Imard  in  all  lifty-foiir-  wrecked  men,  we  ^ot  under  way  <m  the  morning 
of  Au^just  II  and  steamed  to  the  northward,  toward  I'oint  Franklin.  From  masthead  the  i<'e 
was  visible  from  noi-theast  to  wt*st,  pa<'ked  solid  from  the  shore  at  I'oint  Franklin  as  far  as  tlie 
eye  coidd  rcuch. 

Six  vessels  of  the  lleet  had  in  the  Mean  tinu'  cruised  toward  I'oint  Harrow, and  as  the  \ 
liad  closed  in  to  the  southward  of  them,  there  was  no  way  for  them  to  ^et  out  until  the  wind 
shoulil  hiow  stron^f  enoUKli  from  the  unrtheast  tn  drive  the  ice  olT  shore  and  leave  them  a  clear 
passage  to  t  lie  southward.  Findinj;  the  cutler  could  then  he  of  no  further  service  to  the  whaling; 
lleet,  we  steaiuefl  to  the  southward  and  anchored  rtff  Cape  Lishurne  coaling  station.  Th(>re  wh 
procured  a  sup|>!y  of  fresh  water  ami  steamed  over  to  the  coal  mine,  near  Cape  Siihint*,  intending 
to  take  coal  on  hoard  from  the  mine. 

Finding;  the  sea  too  n)U),'h  to  allow  any  work  to  he  <h)ne,  and  it  heinj,'  unsafe  to  lay  toaiudior, 
we  stood  oil"  and  on  under  sail  until  the  sea  had  ><one  down,  and  then  anchored  off  the  mine  at 
r»,Hl  a.  m.,  .Auj^ust  17.  The  remainder  of  the  day  ami  until  lo  o'clock  that  ni^ht  the  crew  were 
employed  in  watches  coaling  ship,  and  we  received  on  hoard  ahont  Hoventeou  tons  of  steuming 
coal. 

At  \  o'clo(!k  the  followinfj;  moruini,'.  as  I  was  very  anxious  fonceming  tho  condition  of  the 
vessels  around  Point  Harrow,  we  ^ot  under  way  and  returned  to  th(>  noitliward.  We  anchored 
uiuh'r  ley  (!ape  that  eveuiuf,'.  and  airived  oil'  Wainwright  Inlet  August  1!». 

The  steamer  Oiva  and  the  hark  Mniji  <ui<l  Sufidn,  two  of  the  six  vessels  that  were  shut  in 
1>V  the  ice.  succeeded  in  striking  a  lead  ami  wiu-king  their  way  into  clear  water.  Their  I'scape 
was  attended  wilii  considerahh;  danger  and  dilliculfy,  ami.  as  they  were  ol)lige<l  to  keep  close 
to  the  shore  while  working  their  way  out,  both  vessels  struck  tho  bottom  several  times. 


12  riUIIHK  OK  THK  STKAMKK  CORWIN. 

F'roiii  tht<  citptiiiiiN  of  tliitHo  vi'hmuIh  t  Imiriitxl  tlutt  tli«  finir  whitlurH  loft  further  north  WHr« 

tl»t>n  ill  iin  iinini'tliiift' <liii»m'i'.  'I'lii-y  wim-i- iii»<'lit>i'<««l  lM«!iiiiil  tl«>  ^riuiiitl  i<'«<  iM'twi'cn  the  Sen 
lloiMt'  iMldiulM  liiiil  I'Diiit  Miirruw.  uml.  iw  Iwt'onj  Mtult'il,  wouM  by  iiimpi'llpd  to  rijiuiiiii  until 
\\\ii  wind  Hlionltl  tiriv»>  tli«  if«  off  xliort*. 

Hiiviti^  tliiiH  li<iiriii'<|  of  till'  NitfKty  of  tin*  vi<HMti)N,  liixt  fliullnt;  oiir  Ni*rviiwri  whI'o  not  likely 
to  1m»  rtMniin>il  I'liilin'r,  toiiHidciiiix  uImo  tlif  irowtlcd  coiiditinn  ol"  (lii«  v«HHid,  wr  mil  imdcr  wiiy 
AnKK^t  ti  mid  Ntitrlt'd  on  oiii-  way  to  tlii>  Houtliwiird.  Heloro  li-iiviiiK  tin'  whuliiiK  tl"<'t  two  of 
thu  Miihvl'ii  ii«'w  slii|»|M'd  on  Ixmid  the  Hrlioiincr  /'of/c  for  tln>  nMimindcr  of  tlif  *vliiilinK  wiiHon. 

(Ml  oiu'  wiiy  sniilli  wt>  I'l'nJMfd  idoii^'  tin-  mIici|')<,  Iniiclu'd  itt  ('it|M'  I.imIiiii'iii'  coaliiiK  station, 
i'liint  ilo|M>,  ('ii|H< 'riioin|iHoii,  und  (!lnviniHHo  Isliind,  and  on  Aii^iiHt  '.jT  an«diort>d  off  Hotliani 
Iiil«t. 

At  Point  ll<>)M-  h'irst  Litntfiiant  iiowison  was  d<<taili-d  to  virtit  tlii<  Indian  villaKf.  H*< 
fouiid  it  t<-iii|ioi'ai'iiy  di'Mt'i'led,  aN  all  tlif  natives  liad  K'"**'  I'itlii'i'  irdaiid  In  limit  or  farther 
down  the  l■oa^*t  l>>  lixli,  in  lioth  caseH  to  niake  lu-oviwionH  for  the  eoniinn  wintiT.  While  Lien- 
tenant  lIowiHon  wiiN  viHitiiiK  the  villas".  t)ii'e(t  men  of  tho  tHiut'N  crew,  all  formerly  lieloiiKiiiK 
to  the  ,l/<(/((7,  entered  Home  of  the  hntM.  Httde  whatever  trinkett*  they  eonid  lind  and  luonnht 
them  on  JHiard.  Allhnii^li  the  artirleH  were  of  very  little  value,  they  were  returned  to  the 
liutH  on  shore,  and  the  men  eontined  in  ironn  iim  a  )inniKhineut  for  their  aethm.  No  such  depre- 
dation has  .siiiee  liecii  eoiniiiitted  by  any  of  the  men  brought  down  by  iis. 

At  Cape  TlKimpsiui  we  look  fresh  water  on  lioanl.  and  this  was  dune  whenev*>r  th^  «piK»r- 
tiinily  olVei'ed,  HM  I  deemed  it  iieces.'jary  to  keep  ii  full  supply  oil  liaii<l.  on  account  of  the  laixe 

number  of  penple  oil    board. 

At  this  and  at  idl  Hiibseipieiil  places  where  fresh  water  could  ho  obtHined,  soap  wiiH  Horvod 
to  the  men  and  they  were  compelled  to  ^u  usiiore  and  wash  themselves  and  their  clothing- 
Some  of  the  men  comprising  Hie  whalers'  crews  were  the  tilthiest  I  haveever  seen,  and  seenicfl 
to  httvn  no  ideft  of  personal  cleanlinesH.  The  duty  of  making  them  keep  theniselveHiind  cUith- 
injjf  cle:ui.  in  oivh-r  to  avoid  a  contagion  which  tilth  mi^lit  cause  in  such  ci'owded  (piarters.  was 
anythiiii<  but  pleasant.  One  man.  who  I  think  was  partially  insane,  was  literally  covered 
with  vermin,  as  were  also  several  t>thers  of  the  crews  of  tlie  wre<ked  whalers. 

At  C'hamisso  Island  no  fresh  water  could  be  obtained,  alth<nij;h  in  previous  years  I  have 
found  it  an  excellent  wuterini,'' station. 

On  our  arrival  at  Hothain  Inlet  the  expeditious  which  had  been  sent  to  explore  the  Kowak 
and  NoJitak  llivers.  the  former  under  Third  Lieutenant  t-'antwell  and  the  latter  in  chaixe  ot 
Heconil  Assistant  KiiKineer  McLeneKan.  returniHl  on  board,  having  in  both  eases  fully  acconi- 
)>lished  thi'ohjects  for  which  they  were  sent. 

l^ii'Ufenaut  Cantwell's  parly  cimsisted.  besides  himself,  of  Afr.  C.  H.  Townsend,  naturalist 
of  theSiuitlisoniiin  Institution  ;  W.  (>.  Marsh,  seaman  ;  F,  Lewis,  Hrenian  ;  Myninek,  the  Indian 
interpreter,  who  was  taken  on  board  at  Ht.  Miiduiel's;  and  from  six  bi  ten  Indians,  as  occasion 
reiinired  duriiii,'  the  expedition. 

The  steam-launch  beinj;  bio  small  to  bike  all  of  Lieutenant  Cantwell's  snpjilies  besides  his 
party,  he  procured  a  larj^e  skin  Ixmt  from  the  Indians,  and  was  thus  enabled  to  take  his  eiitiro 
outfit. 

Assistant  KiiKineer  McLene^an  was  attended  by  si>a)nan  Nelscm  only,  as  he  was  unable  to 
get  an  Indian  to  accompany  the  expedition.  The  skin  boat  which  wius  obtained  at  Ounalaska 
was  used  by  him  and  his  companion  in  their  (exploration. 

Both  expeditions  exiierieiiced  many  dilliciilties  and  hardships,  wliidi  at  times  se(>med  insur- 
mountable, Their  pej'severance  and  labor  overcame  their  trials,  ami  they  succeeded  in  reach- 
ing the  head  of  canoe  navigation  of  both  rivers;  a  feat  which  was  never  before  achieved,  and 
one  wlu(di  has  hitherto  been  considered  imjMKssible  of  acc()n»))lisi.ment  in  the  time  given. 

I)((tailed  reports  of  the  expeditions  are  being  prepareil,  and  will  be  forwarded  to  the  De- 
partment as  early  as  jiossible. 

Mr.  Townsend,  whileon  the  Kowak  River,  succeeded  in  making  ornithological,  iclithyologi- 
cal,  and  entomological  coUoctions  which  will  prove  of  much  viiluo  to  science,  and  which,  with 
his  reiiort,  will  be  submitted  to  Professor  Baird.  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution. 


II.  Ex.   1V1    49   1 


-r-ii^m^: 


I'olNT  HOl'E,    ESgl'lMo  (iRAVES 


POINT  IIOI'E.    ESgUIMO  HOUSES. 


11.  Ex.  153,  «  ' 


I'Ol.NT  HOl'E.    ESgilMO  (;f.\ve.s. 


f 


1^*-' 


^iW.hirjnf9Km  i 


ESyUIMU  (AMP  AT  POINT  Sl'KNCliK. 


CRUIHE  OF  THE  STEAMER  CORWIN.  13 

On  the  roturn  of  the  expeditions  to  tiiu  Voririu,  tiio  Indians  who  liad  uccompanied  Liea- 
t«nunt  Cantwoll  and  all  tlio  natives  who  liad  in  any  manner  assisted  tlie  expeditions  were  remu- 
nerated in  Government  trade  j^oods,  wliich  had  Iwen  taken  up  for  tliat  purpose. 

When  wo  were  at  Hotham  Iidet,  on  the  ttii  of  August,  we  found  aitout  a  thousand  Indians 
rendezvoused,  having  come  from  the  interior  and  from  all  along  the  coast,  for  the  [)urposo  of 
bartering,  and  also  to  cateh  and  dry  salmon  for  their  winter's  us(>.  This  time,  liowever,  we 
f<mnd  very  few  Indians  rcMiiaining  in  tlie  vieiiuty,  the  greater  i)art  having  n^turned  to  their 
homes  wlien  their  trading  and  fishing  were  ended. 

Augu.st  -^S  we  left  Hotham  Inlet,  and  at  4  oVIock  that  afternoon  anehored  off  Sehismaretf 
Inlet.  Two  of  the  oHieers  of  this  vessel  and  four  of  the  otlicers  of  the  wrecked  whalers  went 
ashore,  and  al)out  two  lunii's  were  sjient  in  luiiitiug. 

Small  feathered  game  in  aljundance  was  found  at  Schismareli:  Inlet,  as  at  many  other  places 
along  the  Arctic  sliore,  the  birds  freijuenting  the  vicinity  of  marshes  or  fresli-water  ponds. 

We  left  Schismarett'  Inlet  on  the  return  of  the  Imtiting  jiarty.  pass(!dCa])e  Prince  of  Wales 
the  following  day,  and  ancliored  off  our  coaling  station  at  Point  Sjiencer  that  eviaiiiig.  There 
we  coaled  and  watered  ship,  and  sent  all  the  crew  on  shore  at  tlie  watering  station  to  wasli  their 
clothing. 

As  that  was  the  last  time  during  the  year  tliat  the  coaling  station  would  bo  visited  by  us, 
the  scow  was  hauled  up  on  tlie  heach  above  high-water  mark,  and  that  and  everything  belong- 
ing to  the  (Jovernment  made  as  secure  as  possibk;. 

The  cfial  pile  was  (^ai-efully  trimnuu,'  and  measured,  disclosing  a  deficit  of  about  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty  tons.  This  discrepajicy,  with  the  a])i)arent  and  probable  causes  tliereof.  was 
tnade  the  subject  of  a  letter  by  me  to  the  Department,  diagrams  and  measurements,  nnvde  by 
Chief  Engineer  Kelly,  having  been  forwarded  .at  the  same  time. 

The  watering  station  which  was  established  by  us  last  year  at  Port  Olai'ence  has  proved  of 
inestimable  value,  not  (<nly  to  us  but  also  to  tiuit  j)ortion  of  the  Arctic  whaling  Heet  that  ren- 
dezvous at  Point  Sj)encer.  Besides  i)eing  fret?  from  all  foreign  or  injurious  matter,  it  is  very 
easy  to  obtain;  the  stream  runs  down  from  the  hills  and  empties  into  a  basin  on  the  shore, 
but  a  few  feet  above  high-water  mark. 

We  left  Point  Spencer  at  midnight  of  September  1,  the  fog  shutting  down  thick  soon  after 
taking  our  departure. 

King's  Island  and  Sledge  were  sighted  in  the  fog,  and  at  half  past  is  on  the  morning  of  Sep- 
tember .'i  we  anchored  in  (Jolwin  Hay. 

First  Lieutenant  Hall  and  Surgeon  Yennins  were  sent  to  visit  the  scluMjner  lionaiiza, 
which  was  then  loading  ore  that  was  sent  down  from  the  mine.  On  in(iuiry  they  ascertained 
that  the  Invdth  of  all  the  mining  comjiany  was  excellent,  and  that  th(>  relations  existing 
between  the  miners  and  Indians  were  most  friendly.  Aside  from  this  no  infornuition  could  be 
obtained.  ( )n  the  subject  of  the  mine  or  its  prospec^tive  yield  they  were  decidedly  reticent,  and 
no  amount  of  incjuiry  would  revcial  anything  of  im]»ortance. 

After  the  return  of  Lieutenant  Hall  and  Surgeon  Yemans  wo  got  under  way  and  shaped 
our  cour.se  for  St.  Michael's. 

On  our  arrival  there.  Myninck.  the  Indian  inttu'preter.  who  had  accompani(!d  tho  Kowak 
River  exi)edition.  was  discharged  and  paid  in  (Jovernment  trade  g(jods  and  monity,  the  latter 
being  advanced  by  the  Alaska  Commercial  Company's  agent,  on  an  order  on  the  collector  of 
customs  at  San  Francisco. 

On  the  same,  day  H.  T.  Allen,  seccmd  lieutenant  U.  S.  A.,  and  Mr.  J.  W.  Garland,  an  Eng- 
lish tourist,  visited  the  vessel,  and  both  made  a  reipiest  that  transportation  be  given  themselves 
and  their  companions  from  St.  Michael's  to  San  Francisco  on  board  the  Corifiii. 

Lieutenant  Allen's  party  consisted  of  Sergeant  Cady  Ro])inson,  U.  S.  A.,  and  Mr.  F.  W. 
Fickett,  of  the  United  States  Signal  Service.  They  left  Sitka  in  March  last,  and,  acting  under 
orders  from  the  War  Department,  ascended  the  Copper  and  Tannenah  Rivers.  After  many 
hardships  they  succeeded  in  exploring  a  portion  of  Alaska  thirt  had  nevtn-  before  Iteen  explored 
or  visited  by  white  men.  thereby  ai'compl,ishing  Ji  feat  which  has  hitherto  been  declared 
impossible.    Lieutenant  Allen  and  his  companions  arrivetl  at  tho  Yukon  River  in  time  to  take 


14  CRUISE  OB^  THE  STEAMER  CORWIN. 

passage  down  the  river  to  St.  Micliael's  on  the  steamer  Yukon,  in  the  employ  of  the  Alaska 
Commercial  Com))any. 

Mr.  Garland  was  accompanied  by  Mr.  F.  R.  Heatty,  and  together  they  traveled  acroHw  the 
<!ontinent  from  tlui  Clreat  Slave  Lake  to  the  Yukon  River.  Their  only  object  in  starting  on  the 
journey  was  the  pursuit  of  pleasure,  such  as  was  afforded  them  in  iiunting  and  fishing,  and  in 
the  extreme  novelty  of  their  trip.  On  reaching  the  Yukon  River  tiu-y  also  look  passage  on 
the  steamer  to  St.  Michael's.  The  la«t  steamer  of  the  year  had  sailed  fiom  St.  Michael's 
several  days  in  advance  of  the  arrival  of  the  ViikoH  at  that  place,  and  the  V<niri)i  was  the 
(miy  vessel  on  which  Lieutenant  Allen  and  Mi'.  ( Jarland  could  hope  to  obtain  passage  for  them- 
selves and  companions  to  San  Francisco  before  July  of  next  year.  These  facts  being  known 
to  me,  I  granted  their  re<iuest  for  transportation  to  <  )unalaska  or  San  Francisco,  as  might  there- 
after seem  ])est. 

The  addition  to  our  already  crowded  ve.s.sel  wa.s  five;  but  as  all  except  Mr,  Fickett  nu'ssed 
with  me,  if  there  was  any  incinivenience  experienced  by  their  cimiing  it  came  upon  niy.self 
alone.  I  found,  howevei-,  that  there  was  ample  I'ooni  and  ucconinindation  for  tlieni,  am!  I 
experienced  no  discomfort  by  their  presence;  on  llic  contrary,  I  found  them  very  jih'iisiint  and 
agreeable  compatiious  in  every  way. 

Lieutenant  Allen  and  Mr.  (larland  slept  in  llu'  cabin  on  tlu!  transoms  and  Mr.  h^ickett 
occupied  a  swinging  cot  in  the  ward-rr  )m.  Sergeant  Robinsftu  sh^it  in  tiie  jiilot-housc  and  Mr. 
Beatty  slept  in  the  steam-launch  tm  ileck.  Mr.  Fickett  ate  in  the  ward-room,  and  the  others, 
as  I  have  before  stated,  me.«sed  with  me,  and  in  no  way  was  any  ex[)eu.se  ini[»o.sed  on  the  tiov- 
ornment  by  rea.son  of  their  being  on  l)oard. 

On  the  Ml  of  September  we  left  St.  Michael's,  enco'?ntered  u  strong  southerly  gah^  and 
heavy  head  sea,  and  three  days  later  anchored  oft'  Hall's  Island,  where  a  hunting  party  went 
on  shore  for  the  purpo.se  of  killing  a  polar  bear.  A  minute  description  of  the  hunt  as  it 
appeared  to  an  observer,  necessarily  ditt'ering  in  the  extreme  from  what  was  experienced  l)y  the 
hunting  party,  would  contain  too  much  of  the  ludicrou.>J  to  embody  in  an  oflicial  repoi't.  Mr. 
Townsend,  who  W!i.s  one  of  this  party,  succeeded  in  killing  a  lai'ge  i)olar  bear,  which  was  skinned 
and  brought  on  board,  and  will  soon  be  exhibited  at  the  Smithsonian  Institution  in  Wash- 
ington. 

Another  party  from  the  vessel  visited  the  vicinity  of  the  west  end  of  Hall's  Island  for  the 
purpose  of  hunting  walruses.  A  largo  number  were  seen,  but  owing  to  the  roughness  of  the 
sea  and  the  rocky  nature  of  the  shore  none  were  capturi^l. 

The  following  morning  we  left  Hall's  Island,  rtmndcd  the  east  end  of  St.  Matthew's 
Island,  and  shaped  a  course  for  St.  Paul's.  While  we  were  in  the  A'icinity  of  the  seal  islands  a 
lookout  was  kept  at  ma.sthead  for  vessels  cruising,  sealing,  or  illicitly  trailing  annmg  those 
islands,  but  no  such  vessels  were  seen. 

The  next  evening  we  anchm'ed  otf  St.  Paul's  Island.  Second  Lieutenant  Benliani  and 
seamen  Thompson  and  Ericsen  rejoined  the  vessel,  having  a  few  days  ])r(n'ious  gone  over  to 
St.  Paul's  from  Otter  Lsland,  at  whitdi  place  they  had  l)een  left  in  Juncf  last  for  duty  during 
the  sealing  season. 

Mr.  Townsend  left  the  vessel  and  went  a.shore  at  St.  Paul's  to  complete  the  work  wliich 
was  begun  by  him  befttre  his  passage  lutrth  (ui  the  Coriciii. 

Mr.  Tingle,  the  Governnu'ut  spt-cial  agent,  with  a  representative  of  the  Alaska  Ccmimer- 
cial  Company,  came  on  board,  and  both  statc'd  that  during  the  ab.scnce  of  the  Conn'ii  in  the 
Arctic,  vessels  had  been  cruising  in  sight  of  t\w  island  for  the  purj^Lse  of  killing  seals;  but, 
anticipating  the  Corwin'.s  return,  and  the  heavy  weather  incident  to  the  lateness  of  the  .season, 
none  had  been  seen  within  three  weeks  of  that  time.  These  gentl(»men  estimated  that  about 
fifteen  thousand  seals  had  been  killed  by  the  nuirauding  vessels.  I  shall  ileal  further  with  this 
subject  in  my  re])ort,  tj-eating  it  as  a  seijarate  topic. 

At  5  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  September  i;.t  we  left  St.  Paul's  and  sti'anied' toward  St. 
George's.  Arriving  oflF  that  island,  we  found  that  ov.ing  to  the  strong  winds,  which  liad  ))een 
blowing  several  days,  the  sea  was  too  rough  to  allow  a  landing  on  the  island. 

Continuing  on  to  the  southward  in  a  dense  fog,  at  'i  o'clo(;k  of  the  Itth  we  anchored  off 


II.  Kx.  15,,,.)  I 


r,;eiiifc»''"t,*!*^)fiui'i?ii;." 


<«*»?(»?»,. 


^■r'^.L:^^  '-'^W'jf^'i^o'h.l't  h'^:7^^.M:.-' 


I 


row  N  1)N  sr    I'AII.  ISLAND. 


(..KOUI'  ())•    WO.Mli.N    Al    I'UKI    (  L.VKENCE. 


II    Kx,  I    !,  fi) 


ESyi'IMO  (AMI'  A  I    I'OKT  CLARENCE. 


■i^-aRWMOTnSP 


■.^^r^»mri 


-   —    ^iB?'^ 


b.>l,,lLl.\U)  l_A.\ll'  AT  I'UKl'  CUAKl.N'-E. 


CRUISE  OF  THE  8TKAMER  CURWIN.  IB 

the  vok'ftiui  of  Hiiki'mIiiII'.  No  clmnKM  wjw  notirnd  in  flu*  f^oiiorivl  nj>pt'iiniii('i<  of  the  iNlaiid 
from  tliiit  oliH<-rv<'i|  liy  us  in  tlic  curly  P'H't  of  (lie  mi'.isoii.  TIm'  scii-lions,  wliicli  i<i  .Iiiim' swiirnii'il 
lli«  iHliiiiil,  wi*rt>  now  ('oiis|ii('uous  l)y  llicir  tiliHt'iico,  hikI  I  mi  I  I  wo  ^rowii  ami  itlioiit  a  (lo/t>ii  Hiiiiill 
Hoa-liuns  wori<  nil  tliut  r<<iiiaiiitMl  to  i'*>tiiiiiil  one  of  tin'  liioiiHaiiils  of  tii(>ir  Npi<cit*H  tiiiit  fn'<iiutiit 
tlict  islaiiil  (luring  tlit'ir  lirccdin^  scusuii. 

AfliT  rfiiiiiiiiiiiK  scvi'ial  iiniirs  at  Ho^ohIoIT,  wt<  w(>if<li*><l  luicliiir,  Htcaiiit'd  aroiiiid  l)i<<  iiortii 
I'litl  of  till'  iHlaiul,  ami  -^liapcii  a  course  for  Oiiiialaska.  'I'lii'  volcano,  as  wc  steamed  past  it  in 
Milt  iiiKlit.  presented  ,i  most  beautiful  speitacle.  The  liriKlit  sulphurous  li^ht  which  coin- 
pletely  enveloped  its  siiiuinit,  and  hurst  foith  from  rifts  in  its  side,  siionu  out  UKainst  the  black 
sky  ill  the  liackKi'oiiiid,  making  a  scene  hoi  li  roiiiantic  and  beautiful. 

(hi  oiir  arrival  at  Oiinalaska,  on  the  loth,  the  steamer  l><ir(t  was  in  port,  and  three  days 
later  the  schooner  MafHt-  Tinner  ariivitd.  The  Turner  reported  haviiiK  sedn,  three  weokn 
previous,  a  schooner  between  the  seal  islands  und  ( >iiiialaska,  and  thought  she  iiiiKhf  »<(ill  l>e 
criiisiiij.^  in  that  vicinity  for  the  pni'iiose  of  killing;  seals. 

Aftor  (MialiiiK  and  waterinj^  ship  we  left  Onnulaska  September  'l\,  and  stood  on  twelve 
hour  tacks  to  the  eastward  of  St.  (Jeor;^e's.  toward  St.  {'aiil's  Island.  Arriviii>.c  "'l^'-  I'aid's, 
we  I'eiiiaiiied  loiiK  enough  to  comiiiuiiicale  with  the  shore,  then  )j,'ot  under  way  and  steamed 
to  (he  .soiitliwnrd,  passing  'o  the  westward  of  St.  Oeor^e's.  ami  on  the  morning  of  the  :i.')tli 
of  September  made  fast  to  the  dock  at  Onnalaska.  There  I  found  a  letter  addressed  to  me  by 
the  American  CJaniiiiiK  Company  of  Alaska,  stating?  that  the  bark  Mitntitnn  had  been  wrecked 
in  Bristol  Bay.  and  that  her  crew  and  piis.sen^ers,  numbering  twenty-live  persons,  were  ashore 
at  MeshaKak.  The  assistance  of  the  Corn'in  was  then  reipiested  to  take  the  men  from  Mcsh- 
aj(ak  til  Han  FraiiciHco.  A  letter  had  also  been  sent  to  the  aKents  uf  the  American  ('aniiini^ 
Ooinpany  in  Han  Francisco,  and  from  the  captain  of  the  steamer  .S7.  /Vn*/  (which  arrived  at 
Onnalaska  before  our  ilepartiire)  I  learned  that  a  steamer  had  been  seiit^  from  San  Krancisco 
with  supplies  for  Sitka  and  other  places  aloiij?  the  coast,  and  instructed  before  returning  to  ^o 
to  Meshaxak  and  take  the  twenty-five  men  on  board  for  passage  to  San  Francisco. 

At  Onnalaska  wt<  coaled  and  watered  ship  and  piircha.sed  a  ipiantity  of  provisions  of  the 
Alaska  ('ommercial  C'oniiiaiiy  for  tho  uhu  of  the  passenxttrs  and  crew  on  the  voyajife  from  Onna- 
laska to  San  Francisco. 

A  stroll);  nortliwest  k'vIo  blew  Htoadily  for  throe  days  while  we  were  at  Onnalaska.  the  wind 
ref^isteriii);  a  velocity  of  nearly  sixty  miles  per  hour  at  theSij^nal  Service  station.  During  this 
■storm  the  .steanu"-  .S7.  l'<tnl  wan  hove  to  under  the  lee  of  the  Aleutian  Islands,  and  arrived 
in  port  after  the  K'llo  had  .subsided. 

All  our  su|)plies  having;  been  received  on  board,  we  left  O'.iiialaska  at  11  o'clock  on  the 
morning,'  of  ( K-tobcr  |  and  started  on  our  homeward  journey.  The  first  three  days  of  our  voyapi 
wo  encountered  stronjj;  head  winds  and  sea,  and  experienced  rouf^li  and  disagreeable  weather; 
the  remainder  of  the  voyage,  however,  was  uneventful.  Shortly  befori'  noon  of  October  11 
land  was  sighted,  and  at  2  o'clock  of  the  following  morning  wo  anchored  iu  San  Francisco  Bay, 
a  luqipy  ending  of  the  Cor  win's  succoasful  cruise  of  1H85. 

THE  INDIANS. 

During  the  cruise  of  the  Corwiu  in  the  Bering's  Sea  and  .\rctic  Ocean,  all  the  villages 
adjacent  to  those  waters  were  visited  by  us,  some  oi  them  .several  times  during  tho  season. 

No  evidences  of  liquor  were  obsc^-ved  among  any  of  the  Indians  of  tho  Alaskan  coast,  while 
among  tho  Siberian  natives  the  jtrcsence  of  liipior  was  niideiiiably  attested.     At  Cape  Tchapliii 

(Indian  Point)  Indians  visited  the  ves.sel  in  an  intoxicated  conditi and  the  onialik  (chief) 

informed  us  that  about  fifty  barrels  of  rum  were  concealed  on  shons.  which  had  been  traded  for 
by  his  people  with  American  whaling  ves.sels. 

A  large  number  of  whales  had  been  taken  by  the  natives  on  the  Siberian  coast  during  the 
season,  while  on  tho  Alaskan  coast  scarcely  a  whale  had  been  seen.  The  bone  was  procured 
and  afterward  traded  for  liquor  to  some  of  the  whaling  ves.sels  that  hiul  stopjied  there  to  engage 
in  that  nefarious  traffic. 

All  the  liquor  had  beeu  disposed  of  by  tho  whalers  before  they  entered  tho  United  States 


m  CKUIHK  OF  THK  HTKAMKK  COKVVIN. 

iloituiin,  li  tliiii'oiiKli  (•Xiitiiiiwitioii  hy  llio  iilllcprN  nf  thi>  Corwin  of  oach  hikI  ovury  vuhhuI  met 
((iHcUisiiiK  tilt'  |ir«rtHiu'(*  of  notliiiiK  of  iv  coiitnihiiiitl  iinttiru. 

TliK  liuliitiiN  ui'ti  trouti'il  kiiully  liy  nil  vossoIh  visifmi^  tho  Arctic,  tli«  NHilors  not  kruiwiii^ 
how  NDuri,  ]>y  ntitHiiii  nl'  hhimi'  tiri-iili>iil,  Ihcy  nmy  lio  lliniwii  mi  liifir  dnir'ity  nrid  he  ('<iiii|ifil)'<l 
to  ritiiiiiiii  with  tlu'iii  ami  to  (1«<|k'iii|  <iii  tln'm  Cor  (ln<ir  >*ul»sist(<iic«<  tmtil  |ifo|M«r  succor  arrivHH. 

Kvcry  vcMscl  cruisiiiK  in  tiic  Arctic  is  viNitcil  \>y  tim  nutivcH.  ititil  iiiHictcd  with  their  prcM, 
HJHJe.  They  often  renuiiii  I  weiity-Cour  or  even  foity-ei^ht  hours  .it  ii  time  imi  hourij  ;  ami  fre- 
•(iieiitiy  ileitend  iiiinost  eiitiiely  on  the  vcNHelM  visitt'd  for  their  food  diirinK  lli<Mr  Ktuy. 

They  ivre  the  must  persisteut  Uegxurs  I  Imvo  ever  seen.  Toltucco  is  the  principiil  ciliject  of 
thoir  lM<KK<^>'y<  <^>>'l  t)>i*y  never  pruteiid  to  uitl  thuir  own  fo«)(l  iis  lon^  us  they  can  be^  tliat  of  thu 
white  man. 

A  kIuuoo  at  th«'ip  cuIkIuo  ruivi lily  tUHcluHCH  w hut  to  civiliawl  l)einKH  woiihi  he  a  s»t!iciont 
r(>ason  for  their  nnMidicancy. 

(Jknhiis.— Owin^f  to  the  noniadii!  or  iidj^ratory  niilnrenf  (he  Indians  of  .Alaska,  it  is  not 
only  dilHcult  hut  impossilile  to  form  anything  more  Ihiui  a  roii>;h  estimateuf  llu'ir  population. 
They  travel  from  one  village  to  another  alon^  the  coast,  and  from  island  to  island  and  the 
mainland,  for  the  purpose  of  hniilin^;,  fishinK.  imd  trading,  and  are  often  met  st«veral  hundred 
miles  from  their  homes, 

Kron»  personal  ol>servatii>ns,  coverinn;  a  perioil  of  ahont  fifteen  years.  I  would  estimate  tho 
number  of  Indians  inhabilinM  the  coast  and  islands,  fr'oni  Point  Harrow  to  St.  Michael's,  at 
throe  thou.sand;  and  the  number  of  interior  Indians  between  those  two  poiuta  at  about  two 
thuuHiiiul. 

NAVlOAriOX 

What  I  have  Htate<l  in  reports  of  previous  years  concerning  tlio  dangers  and  <liniculties  of 
Arctic  naviKiition  will  apply  with  e(iinil  force  to  the  present.  The  prevalence  of  fo><gy  or  cloudy 
weather  makes  it  imjiossible  at  times  to  obtain  astronomical  observations;  and  even  when  ob- 
tained they  are  not  entirely  to  be  relied  on,  on  accouid  of  theKi'cat  refraction  and  indistinct 
horizon. 

The  currents  ire  not  constant  either  in  force  or  direction,  bein^  controlled  entirely  by  tho 
ice  and  wind.  Dead-reckoning  is  almost  worthless,  and  the  safety  of  the  vessel  and  its  crew 
depends  on  the  use  of  the  lead  and  on  the  e.vercise  of  constant  viKilunce. 

Experience  in  tln-se  waters  is  of  paramount  importance.  On  portions  of  tho  Alaskan  coast 
the  general  contour  of  the  land  is  unchanged  for  many  miles,  and  it  re(piii'es  exjii-rience  and 
judgment  to  (establish  the  identity  of  certain  points  of  land  and  thus  ascertain  the  position  of 
the  ves.sel.  Thi'  approach  to  the  mainland  is,  with  few  exceptions,  markeil  by  ri'giilar  an<l 
gradiuil  shoalings,  which  make  the  use  of  the  lead  of  groat  service,  and  invaluable  in  thick 
weather.  On  Hearing  the  islands,  however,  the  shoalings  are  very  al»rupt,  and  do  not  change 
perceptibly  until  in  close  proximity  to  the  land.  The  birds  which  infest  the  islands  sliiiek  out 
a  warning  in  their  fright,  being  |iut  to  (light  by  the  noise  of  the  fog  whistle.  One  cannot  help 
thinking  that  in  thesti  remote  and  ilangcroiis  I'egions  Providence  has  made  provisions  for  the 
sailor  that  are  in  nearer  and  more  safe  and  familiar  watiM's  left  U)  the  work  of  man. 

When  in  tli(>  vicinity  of  the  ice  tln<  vessel  was  conned  from  masthead  liy  the  olhcerof  the 
deck  f)r  by  myself.  This  position  was  necessary  in  order  to  obtain  an  unobstructed  view  of  the 
surroundings,  and  to  selecst  tho  best  pas.sages  or  leads  through  the  ice.  No  one  uniuHUistonied 
to  Antic  navigation  can  fully  ajiprociato  tho  importance  of  oxtromo  watchfulness,  care,  and 

judgment. 

SOUNDINGS  AND  DREPOINOS. 

During  the  cruise  in  tlio  Behring's  Sea  and  Arctic  Ocean  we  took  soundings  from  the  date 
of  leaving  Oolwin  Bay,  .(..ne '.»(!.  until  our  arrival  at  St.  Paul.  September^!*.  The  soumlings 
were  made  oach  hour  when  under  way  and  steaming  any  distance  from  11u>  land,  but  when 
tracking  along  clo.so  to  tho  .shore  tho  lead  was  in  constant  u.so.  These  soundings  wei-o  all  care- 
fully noted  ;  and  will  b(^  located  on  a  <'liart  of  those  waters,  when  finished,  to  bo  submitted  to 
tho  hydrograpliic  office  in  San  Francisco. 


II       K>      It),    «!>     I 


'■^^■mm 


MUISKS  AM)  NAIIVI.S  Ol'   KA.^I'  (  AI'K,  MHKU1A. 


VlLLAGli  AT  EAST  CAl'li,  SlllKRlA. 


II  ¥.\  m,  (I  I 


a  2.  3i 


\  V  I  l\  I.   WCIMIA     I  A'   I   <  ttl'l'     slllll<l\ 


NAri\  tt  MKN,  i-:\sr  ( m-k.  siheria. 


CRUISE  OF  TMK  STKAMKR  COKWIN.  17 

Drt'<lKi"K'^  were  also  iiuidc  iil  iiitt'cvals  iliiriiiH'  tlii^  friiisr,  or  as  often  an  (lie  iwitnri'  of  ilio 

liottoiM  wuiilil  iici-iiiil,  luiil  qiiitt' a  collection  of  s[iecinii'ns,  incliidinj^  sonin  that  are  new,  wore 

ol)taiiit'tl.     Tliese  Hpeciuiens  were  jtrtvsei'vwl  in  siiirits,  uuil  on  our  (urivitl  at  San  Francisco 

were  I'orwanled   to  the  Smithsuniati  Institutiuu,  where  they  will  be  properly  itlentified  and 

I'lassitiod. 

MKDICM.  Ml)  L\  run  AliCTir. 

The  value  of  i]w  wervices  of  a  medical  ollicer  iu  the  Arctic  cannot  li«  too  highly  estiniatwl, 
the  attenilaiiri"  on  the  ollicers  and  crew  of  tiu^  ('i>iifiii  foi'minj;  hut  a  snuill  portion  of  the  duty 
wliicli  he  is  called  on  to  perform.  The  Alaska  t'onunercial  Company  em])loys  one  doctor  at 
Ounalaska  and  two  at  the  seal  islands,  hut  they  are  so  far  removed  from  tlie  Arctic  that  their 
service's  are  seldom,  if  t^ver,  called  into  recpiisitiou'  hy  any  of  the  whaling  fleet.  The  ci'ews  of 
the  fleet  comjirise  ujiwarils  of  one  thou.sand  men,  and  a  lar^^e  |)erccntaKt'  of  these  are  annually 
treated  hy  the  medical  otlicei-  of  the  Coni'iii. 

When  the  ('(niriii  first  went  north  the  Indians  had  a  ^reat  repugnance  to  receiving  nu'd- 
ical  attendanct<  from  a  doctor,  hut  would  resort  to  tlu'ir  shaniau  t(i  cure  all  their  ailments. 
Now,  however,  the  doctor  is  sought   hy  them  in  all  their  ills,  and  their  faith  in  his  J)owot  is 

tndy  surprising. 

FISllKlilKS  OF  ALASKA.  ,»  m 

in  relation  to  the  salmon  and  cod  lisheries  of  AlasUa  mentioned  iu  my  report  of  last  year, 
1  liiive  hut  few  I'einarks  to  add. 

It  is  almost  impossilde  to  <'onceive  of  the  immense  (|nantilies  of  these  lish  that  ahonnd  in 
the  Alaskan  Territory,  priindpally  in  the  waters  adjacent  to  Mristol  Hay.  Fish  canm>ries  havo 
been  establisheil  along  the  bay,  and  the  enterprise  is  destined  to  bcconu^  one  of  the  leading 
industries  of  Alaska. 

Fi'om  people  who  are  interested  in  die  undertaking  I  learn  that  the  yield  of  salmon  in  the 
Koskoguim  and  Mishagak  Rivers,  tributaries  of  Hrist(d  Hay.  exceeds  that  of  the  Colundiia 
River,  and  that-  they  are  of  a  (juality  not  excelled  by  any.  The  yield  of  codfish  in  the  bay  is 
nearly  as  great,  as  that  of  salmon,  it  is  a  matter  of  gr(>at  regret  that-  the  labors  of  our  Coast 
Survey  vessels  have  not  been  direi  ted  to  these  waters. 

No  thorough  or  reliable  survey  has  ever  been  made  of  the  rivers,  and  it  is  sincei-ely  to  be 
hoped  that  the  (lovernmenf  will  cause  a  survey  fo  be  maile  of  that  portion  of  the  <'ounlry.  and 
thus  by  its  assist  ;i  nee  adil  an  inijietus  to  na\ig;it  ion  and  a  st  imuliis  to  the  new  enterpi'ise. 

Capt.  C  T,  Hague,  with  tliesteanu'i-  Ihtni,  ascende<l  the  Koskoguim  Kivei'as  far  as  lati- 
tude ;V,)°  ,'1'?'  N.  the  past  sunmu'r,  an<l  he  is  of  the  opiiuoii  that  the  river  is  navigable  for  a  dis- 
tance of  tifty  or  oiu;  hundred  miles  farther  up  than  that  point,  but  it  requires  proper  snr"t  y 
anil  delineation. 

TIIK   SK.Mi    I'ISIIKKIKS. 

In  previ(tus  n^ports  f  have  called  the  attention  of  the  Department  to  the  importance  of 
greater  i)rotectioii  to  sealdife  in  Ali.skan  watei's.  and  especially  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Pribyloff 
Islands. 

Last  year  the  schoonei'  Adt'lc  w.as  seized  by  an  oHicer  connected  with  this  vessel  ror  unlaw- 
fully killing  seals  and  delivered  by  him  to  the  llnite<l  States  anthoritie.s  at  San  Franci.sco. 
fnstead  of  being  forfeift'd,  as  provided  by  section  lUM,  R(!visod  Statutes,  she  was  snbseciueidly 
relea.sed  on  Icchnicai  informalities. 

The  same  vessel  has  pursued  her  illegal  occupation  during  the  pa.st  .summer,  and  hor  release 
from  ju.sticehas  wvy  generally  led  to  the  belief  that  the  seizure  of  the  .l</c/<' wasan  act  unwar- 
ranti'd  by  law. 

Otiu-r  ve.^sels  bad  previously  been  seized  for  the  same  otVense,  hut  'n  no  instance  has 
punishment  been  iidlicb'd.  The  Department  can  reailily  see  what  the  result  will  be  if  thi.s 
state  of  affairs  be  allowf^d  to  continue. 

During  the  year  quitit  a  nundier  of  vessels  have  raided  Alaskan  waters  for  seals  and  other 
t'ur-boaring  animals.  Among  the  uumbi;r  the  following,  with  their  catches,  are  noted  :  Looh^- 
H.  Ex.  15.) ;? 


18  CUUISP:  OF  TIIK  HTEAMKK  CORWIN. 

out,  l,l(M>.si>jvls;  Mditf  KIliH,  rA-*"'*  wt'ul.s;  Fdiniitc,  'i,oi'>!^>  nwiht;  Stiii  Diego,  1,735  seals; /St'crrn, 
I, ;j  I'.' seals;  I'ltinlerOiU,  (about)  1,01)0  scaLs;  llciiru'ttti,  (alMiut)  l,ao(iswilH;  Alexituder,  (i(iU  swils 
anil  lo7  sca-otli'is;  Otti'r,  a  fow  soals  and  about  ."iO  or  <i(»  scaottois,  with  tlio  Adcle  and  other 
vessels  yet  (o  hear  from.  Thus  it  will  be  seen  that  upwards  of  ten  vessela  wuru  en^agtsd  in 
unlawful  soalin^  in  Alaskan  waters  duriiijf  tho  present  year,  and  1  am  convincod  that  noxt 
yoar  tho  number  will  l)c>  cousidorably  increiised. 

Runmrs  are  current  here  that  tlu^  Ameriean  eonsul  at  Victoria  has  informed  dift'orent 
liei>i)le  (hut  (hey  are  ;  ot  prohibited  by  law  Croni  sealing  in  Ahuskau  or  other  waters,  pro- 
videil  they  keej)  moro  than  throe  leagues  from  tin  slioro.  Encouraged  by  this  decision  and 
the  success  of  (he  marauding  sealers  during  the  pr^^sent  yoar,  parties  in  Victoria  aro  fitting 
out  vessels  (two  or  throo  being  sleam  schooners)  to  engage  in  the  business  lu'xt  year.  Not 
nuly  aro  seals  killed  out  of  season,  but  they  are  shot  in  the  water,  and  young  iiud  old,  male  and 
female,  killed  indisoriminatoly ;  all  indirect  violation  of  sec^tions  l!»(io  and  l!M)l,  Kevisod  Stat- 
utes, and  all  tending,  if  allowed  to  continue,  to  drive  tho  seals  from  their  regidar  haunts. 

8kins  so  (obtained  are  sh}))ped  to  London  as  Victoria  skins,  and  on  tlu^r  return  to  this  coun- 
try, after  dressing  and  dyeing,  are  invoiced  at  a  price  far  bch>w  their  jictual  value  U)  avoid  the 
payment  of  legitimate  duties.  The  Government,  by  this  means,  loses  about  Si. 50  on  each  skiu 
so  Invoicid,  and  on  the  catch  of  the  present  year  is  defrauded  to  tlu^  amount  of  ab<uit  $"i0,0(«t 
uu  duties  alone.  In  addition  to  this,  the  royalty  of  $'iJi*)  per  skin,  as  provitled  by  .section  10G!>, 
liitvised  Statutes,  is  not  paid,  tho  Government  thereby  being  defrauded  of  many  thousands  of 
dt'lhirs  adilitional. 

In  view  of  the  fontgoing  facts,  I  would  respectfully  suggest: 

First.  That  the  l)ei)artment  cause  to  be  printed  in  the  We.storn  pajjors,  )»articularly  those 
(if  San  Francisco,  Cal.,  and  Victoria,  B.  CI.  the  scictions  of  law  reliiting  to  the  killing  of  fur- 
liejiring  animals  in  Ahuskau  waters,  and  delining  in  specilic  terms  what  is  meant  )iy  Alaskan 
waters. 

Secondly.  That  a  revomie-cutter  be  sent  to  cruise  in  tho  vicinity  of  tho  Pribylofl'  Islands 
and  Ahuitian  group  during  the  sealing  season. 

One  vessel  cannot  protect  those  islands  and  visit  tlu!  Arctic  Ocean  hesides.  Tlio  ci'uising 
ground  is  far  too  extensive,  covering  as  it  dcjos  a  distance  (jf  several  thousand  miles,  and  while 
the  cutter  is  absent  in  tho  Arctic  much  damage  can  be  done  by  marauding  vessels  to  tlie  seal 
islands. 

The  jiresenco  of  a  cutter  is  needed  in  tho  Arctic  to  look  after  the  Indians  and  to  j)rovent 
the  illegal  trallic  in  liquor.  Tho  AvJialing  fleet,  representing  as  it  does  hundreds  of  thousands 
of  dollars  and  over  a  thousand  lives,  exposed  to  the  rigors  an<l  hardships  of  that  frozen 
cuuntry,  culls  for  .some  ^jrotection  on  (lie  [lart  of  the  Government,  a  fact  which  is  attested  by 
the  services  rendered  the  fleet  during  the  ])ast  few  years. 

Since  the  Territory  of  Alaska  was  ceded  to  tlm  United  Stiites  no  otFicer  of  tho  Government 
has  Iveen  on  olFicial  duty  in  Alaskan  waters  nu)re  than  I.  my  lirst  assigniuent  having  been  in 
IWiH.  From  [x'r.sonal  observations  cr»vering  most  of  (he  (ime  from  that  date  to  the  present  year, 
I  can  truly  say  that  the  condition  of  the  nalivi-s  has  improved  in  a  remarkabliMlegree  since  the 
.\laskan  Commercial  Com{)any  has  obtained  the  leasee  of  that  portion  of  tin-  country  from  tho 
Government.  Before  the  c(jmpany  assunu'd  control  of  the  seal  islands  the  natives  were  but 
little  in  advance  of  (he  Indians  of  Alaska.  Their  hal)i(ations  were  formerly  mud  huts,  and 
(heir  food  and  idothing  such  only  as  the  country  afforded.  Edxicaticm,  even  of  the  most  jirimi- 
(i\c  nature,  was  unknown  and  undreamed  of.  and  they,  being  satisfied  to  live  from  day  to  day, 
gave  no  thought  whatever  of  the  morrow.  Their  huts  h;ive  n<jw  given  places  to  con d'ortablo 
frame  hou.ses,  giving  them  an  air  almtwt  of  luxuriaiu'e.  when  comi)ared  with  their  fcu'mcr 
al)odes.  Car])ets.  furniture*,  and  the  ordinary  comforts  of  the  middle  chisses  in  the  United 
States  form  the  rule  f)f  the  furnishings  of  (heir  houses.  In  dress  tlu^y  border  on  the  extrava- 
gant, silks  with  the  women  and  broadejotlis  with  the  men  being  nfit  infrcquput.  while  many 
of  the  latter  have  ne.'it  sums  of  money  pla I  to  their  cre(li(. 

Schoi>lH  are  maintained  on  the  islands,  and  attendance  at  them  is  compulsory.     A  church 


II.  Ex.  153. «  1 


.i^r-- 


-J^^''"i%'$M4^- 


;^-T^ 


^fe-Sp'^ii?^^ 


rm 


UKOlll'  Ul'  bUR  Sli.M.,  ?.!■.  I'.MI.  1SL.\NU. 


ST.  HAI;L'S  island.     KU.'    Nl^;  HtlK-SK.SL 


II.  Kx    151,  44  > 


Sl     I'Al  I'S  ISI.A.M)      SKAl.  ON    KII,I.IN(.  (iknl'MJ. 


•'•*-"**—-' 


,*-•*?*, 


KUR-SEAL  ON  BEACH,  ST.  I'AUL  ISLAND. 


CUUIHK  OF  THE  STKAMKIl  COUVVIN.  10 

(^osliriK  fl'l.iXHi  wii.s  crcrU'd  tin  Kt.  I'mils  Island,  mid  is  now  almost  clrar  of  dul)t,  thu  niimcy 
liaviuK  Ix'cn  advanced  liy  tliu  Alaska  Coninicrcial  Company, 

A  doctoi'  is  i'm|iioyi'd  on  carli  of  tho  islaiidH  of  8t.  I'aul  and  St.  (jcor^c,  and  at  Otinaiaskii, 
Hiili'ly  for  till'  cari'  of  tlm  nalivi's. 

Till*  K('»t'i'«'l  <^>i'  of  cluunlincHs,  ha|>iiint*NM,  ooMifort,  and  |iros|H'rity  atlcst  in  indisputablu 
terms  tliat  tlii>  Alaska  (<oniini>i'('ial  Company  have  and  do  fiillill  llicir  oliliKutions  tiiwartls  tlii'su 
pi'opli'  in  a  most  scrupulous  and  coiiscicntioiis  manner,  and  tlic  result  nii^lit,  1  am  uuru,  uxoitu 
the  wonder  ami  envy  of  many  missionarius  laboring  iinion^^  a  Himilar  clasH. 

THE  IVIIALISO  FLEET. 

The  whalinj,'  Heet  durinj?  the  past  year  conaiHted  of  forty-two  vessels,  tliirty-tliree  of  which 
visited  HeriiiK  Heu  and  Arctic  <  )cefiii.  Ei^jhtecn  of  the  Arctic  whalers  hailed  from  New  Bo«l- 
ford.  Mass.,  and  llie  remtunder  from  San  Friinci.sco,  Cal. 

Although  all  the  vessels  met  wer»'  H»il»j(*ctt(d  to  a  very  thorouKh  (>.\aniination,  no  evidenceH  of 
li(|uor  or  other  commodities  intt'iided  for  illicit  tradic  were  discovered,  the  reason  l>cin>;,  as  has 
liel'ore  lieeii  stated,  that  all  the  whalers  which  did  en^aKe  in  conti'aliand  trade  had  disposvil  of 
their  illej^al  floods  liefore  entering  the  United  States  domain.  A  nuijority  of  the  fleet  have  been 
more  or  less  damaged  by  ice  diiriny  the  present  year,  and  five  vessels  sull'ered  total  loss.  The 
bark  l\i<iiihi>ir  was  cruslied  in  the  ice  April  l.'i,  and  the  (ictzi'llc  and  Xtipnlfoii  met  with  a  sim- 
il.ir  fate.  The  (luzi'lh-  was  wrcckeil  .June  .t  about  twenty  miles  SSK.  of  Southwest  Cape.  St. 
L.iwiciice  Island,  anil  her  crt?w  and  al.so  the  crew  of  the  lidiuhoir  were  rescued  and  distriluited 
anion;;  the  ve.s.sels  of  the  fleet.  The  Napith'on  was  wrecked  in  latitude  til"  .'}(»'  N.,  longitude 
i7(  4(1'  VV.,  and  the  first  and  third  mates,  with  twenty  of  her  ci-ew,  were  eitliei- drowned  oi- 
fi'ozen  to  death,  'i'iie  remaimler  were  rescued,  and  they  also  were  divided  anions  the  vessels 
of  tile  fleet.  Tlu«  barks  (Ivitvife  anil  Susan  and  the  Mahvl  were  wi-ecked  olf  Wainwri^ht  Inlet 
.\ii;,Mist  11.  a  detailed  account  of  which  has  idready  been  ^iven  in  this  I'cport.  I'p  to  d;ile  of 
writing,  all  the  Arctic  lleet  with  the  exception  of  the  l)ark  A im-llii/.sl  have  arrived  in  San 
Ki'ancisco. 

The  catch  of  (he  season  by  vessels  of  tlie  New  Bedford  fleet  is  one  hundred  and  twenty-two 
bowhead  !i.n<l  twi  nty-three  ri^hi  whale-i,  anil  that  of  the  San  Friincisco  lleet  is  one  hundred 
bowiieiid  ,'uiil  twelve  rit^lit  whales.  This  makes  u  total  catch  (not  iiicluiliiij<  the  .l///c/////.s7)  of 
two  hundred  and  lifty-.seveii  whales,  which  compares  very  favorably  with  the  work  of  previ- 
ous stNisons,  and  is  more  evenly  distributed  than  has  heretofore  been  the  case. 

Considering  the  m.iiiy  dangers  tc  which  the  Arctic  wluilers  are  ex|M(sed.  it  seems  almost  a 
miracle  tluit  more  vessels  are  not  lost  ejich  year,  and  this  fact  spejiks  volumes  in  jiraise  of  the 
skill  and  professional  ability  of  the  capt.iins  and  oflicers  navi^atiiit;  those  vessels.  In  reality, 
tile  captains  and  olliceis  of  the  Arctic  whaling  vessels.  a,s  seamen,  cannot  be  excelled,  anil  aa 
a  class  are  my  be.-ui  ideal  of  the  Amei'ican  seam.-in. 

ciiinvDEi)  co.xDiriox  of  the  \'essel. 

It  is  almost  impossible  to  convey  any  more  than  a  valine  idea  of  the  crowded  condition  of 
the  vessel  b(^foi'e  \wv  return  to  San  Fi'ancisco.  Four  jieople  occupied  berths  on  the  cabin  tran- 
.soms.  .-iiid  in  the  wjii'd-room  all  the  state-rooms  wei'e  tilled,  ■•iiid  three  cots  suspended  from  the 
deck  bciims.  Oni'  berth  was  made  in  the  pilot-house,  and  two  in  the  st(!am-launcli  on  deck. 
Tile  store-room  ami  sail-lo(;kers  on  the  berth-dock  were  torn  down,  and  berths  ei-ected  foi'  the 
accomiiio(Iiition  of  the  oflicei's  of  the  whale  ships.  The  (piarterniiisters  berthed  in  the  oil -lockers, 
iind  the  lirenien  and  coal-pas.sers  were  obliged  to  slee|»  in  berths  erected  in  the  shaft  alley. 
Owiny  to  this  crowded  condition  it  was  necessary  to  diviilo  the  crews  of  the  wrecked  whalers 
into  two  watches,  and  have  them  perform  duty  with  (Uir  own  crew.  Tliis  course  was  neces.s.-ii-y, 
not  only  to  jirovide  slpoping  accommodations  for  all  hands,  but  also  to  keep  the  vessel  in  a 
l)roper  sanitary  condition.  As  the  men  came  on  Ixiard  they  were  mustered  on  the  ipiarter-deck, 
and  tlu'  situation  ex]»laiiied  to  them.  They  were  told  that  they  wore  to  work  in  regular  watches, 
and  that  they  wyuld  at  all  times  while  on  board  be  subject  to  the  rules  governiny  the  discipline  of 


20  CRUISK  OK  THK  STKAMKK  ("oil WIN. 

tho  v»'Hst>l.  All  ai'coptoil  thoHitimtioii,  iiotwitliHtiindiiiK  •'">  fiK't  tlmt  Homo  of  thorn  could  liiivo 
rtliippcd  MM  (illicr  vt'SHcls  (if  the  wluiliiij,'  llcrl  (ny  till'  D'Hiaiiidi-i'  of  (lit'  soisoii,  liiul  tlicy  cliosi'ii. 

No  disliiirtioii  WHH  iiiiidc  filliir  in  work  or  fund  liclwi'i'ii  tlir  wrecked  men  liiid  our  owii 
»'row,  hikI  (iviiry  (tffoi't  wiw  iiiiule  to  eiditiiliute  to  the  ri)iiil'ort  of  the  iiew-coiiicrH.  Evimi  tlm 
privute  stoi'es  of"  the  Coririii'n  crew  were  l»y  my  ordi'rs  sliared  eipially  umoiif;  all.  K<ir  a  time 
llie  men  Were  Mati.slied  with  their  lot,  Imt  .snoii  lie^an  to  show  Hi;;Msol' dissivlislaction.  Several 
mutinous  dcmoust  rat  ions  were  nuido  l>y  tlieiu  while  they  wen)  ou  honnl,  Inil  as  they  were 
always  met  with  a  lirm  hand,  sei'ioiis  res\dts  were  avoided. 

It  ^ives  me^real  pleasure  to  attest  to  till'  manliness  and  hiinmuitye.xhi  luted  hy  tin-  Coiiiiii'.s 
crew  dui'in^  the  tryinjif  ordeal,  each  vyin^  with  the  other  in  tlieii"  endeavoi-  to  aid  their  uid'ort- 
nnate  t'ellow-mariners.  Their  food  was  shared  clieerrully,  and  some  of  tlieir  (dothin^  that 
could  not  he  well  spared  was  ^iveu  to  the  wrecked  men.  "Man's  inlintuHnily  to  man"  was 
lorcihly  exemplified  in  the  troiitmont  they  received  in  return  on  tho  purt  of  hoiuo  of  their  heue- 
lit'iiiriuH. 

COSCLUSIUN. 

It  is  ><en»^i'ally  untlei-stood  that  thu  (\>nriu  is  to  he  relitn'ed  hy  tli.  Ilettr  Ua'  Arctic  duty. 
If  siK'h  a  fdiaii),"'  if^  I'ontemplated,  hefore  it  is  made  I  would  respectfully  call  the  seriiuis  atlen- 
lioM  and  consideration  of  the  l)e|)artment  to  I  he  fad  tlial  ninetei'U  feet  of  water,  which  I  und«'r- 
sland  is  (he  drau)r|it  of  the  lii'<ii\  is  altoj^etliei'  too  ^;reat  to  make  her  an  ed'ective  <'ruiser  on  the 
shore  of  the  Arctic  Ocean.  With  suidi  a  drau;<hl,  all  elVeetiveness  as  a  cruiser  aKiiinst  contra- 
hand  tra<le  and  as  an  aid  to  vessels  that  mi;-'!''  hecouu'  stranded  would  he  .seriously  imjiaired  if 
not  totally  destroyed. 

In  my  opinion  .a  greater  drau;;ht  than  twelve  or  tliirtei'U  feet  would  he  a  hindi'ance  to  ell'ect- 
i\e  service.  The  Conriii  ha.s  perfornu'd  thisAvork  during?  the  last  live  yeurHo.xcuptiomvlly  well, 
and,  in  my  opinion,  she  is  admirahl)'  suited  for  the  cluty.     It  is  true  thai  when  she  has  a  larp' 

nunilier  of  I |ile  on  lioard.  .-is  has  lieen  !  he  case  I  he  past  ( woseasiuis,  she  is  very  nuicli  cro wiled, 

hut  (lie  ellicii'iicy  of  the  Nessel  as  a  cruiser  is  not  at  all  im|iaireil,  the  only  iiiconveni«'Uc«  heinn 
the  personal  disci  mi  forts.  It  is  reasoiialile  to  suppose  that  this  crowded  condition  of  the  vessel 
will  occur  only  occasionally;  and  any  ollicer  would  prefer  an  ellicient  vessel,  even  though 
crowded,       one  having  t he  ^jreater  and  more  serious  impcdiinent  of  an  overilraiiH:ht. 

The  new  liiixli,  liein;^  a  lar^'er  ves.sel  than  the  Cunriii,  has  that  siiij^le  ad\anta|i;e  ov(ir  her, 
and  niijfht  he  a  very  .servicealile  vessel  for  Arcti<'  duty;  hut  it  is  not  reasomihle  to  snpposu  that 
the  l)i'partmi'iit  would  i^n  to  the  unwarranted  ex|)i'nsi'  of  sliealliiny  the  new  vessel  and  pi'ovid- 
in^  lier  with  an  ice-hrrjiker  when  the  Ciniriii  is  already  so  titled.  Kvcii  if  the  l\ii,sli  was  so 
]irovided  the  only  known  adv  antaj^e  would  lie  in  larger  (inarters;  and  1  am  positive  that  she 
(■aiiiiot  excel,  if  she  can  CI  I  iial.  1  lie  ^  'o*vc//(  in  com  hilled  sail  in  j^,  steam  i  11)^.  and  sea-)j;oinj^i|nali(ios. 

The  nece.ssil.v  of  liaviujj;two  vessels  crui;-"  on  (lie  Alaskan  northwest  coast  has  been  fru- 
iHteiidy  and  s(ronj;ly  nientioiied  to  the  Departmeiil.  The  water  from  the  .seal  isliiiiils  Houth, 
aioiiiiil  the  Aleiidan  and  Shtimairin  Kroii|is.  and  also  around  Kodiak  and  Sondieastern  Alaska, 
is  liuld  and  ilee)»,  and  can  lie  iia\i;jfa(ed.  so  far  ;is  wa(er  is  coiiceriii'il,  hy  vessels  of  (he  i;i'ea(est 
dr;iiii,dit.  and  (o  nie  il  appears  (hat  (he  /Icai-  wmild  he  v.ell  adapled  for  llia(  dn(y. 

I(  iiiiis(  he  oh\  iiiiis  (o  (he  |)epartmen(  ( hat  i(  is  iiiipossihie  for  one  ve.s.sel  to  cover  the  entire 
crnisiiiH:  ;^riiunil  in  Heriiij,' Mea  and  Arclic  Ocean,  eiiiliiacin^  as  i(  does  an  «jxtent  of  over  seven 
(lioiisaiid  miles. 

Ha\iiiK  cruised  for  a  niiniher  of  years  in  every  pnilioiiul  Alaska,  from  Sitka  to  Point 
Harrow,  and  aiiioii^r  all  the  islands,  and  served  on  (iiis  duly  much  lon>;:er  than  .any  oilier  person 
iiuder  the  (ioveriiment,  I  should  undersland  the  needsof  (he  coiiidry  in  (his  ies|iecl:  (hereforn 
(he  fdri'i^oiii;.?  su^jnest ions  are  made  as  a  mailer  of  du(y  only,  and  willi  hecomiiiy  deferenco  and 
hesitation. 

Vei-y  respi'ctfully,  yoi.r  ohedient  servant, 


llou.    DaNIKI,    MA.NNINd, 

Secretary  of  the  Trennur;/,  lV(isfiin<jfi)ii.  I).  C. 


M,   A.  HKALY, 

Cii  1,1(1  ill.  I'.  S.  R.  M. 


II.  R>.  151.  44  • 


sr    I'AHl.S,   ISI.WK     KU(  KS  AM)  SK.M.S 


J- 


ST.  PAUL'S  ISLAND.     VOUNG  SEALS. 


i»Ar:ER  I. 


A  NAIillATrVE  ACCOUNT 


EXPLORATION  OF  THE  KOWAK  RIVER,  ALASKA, 


UNI>KI(    IIIK    DIKKCTION   (IK 


OAPT.    MTOIIAKL   A.    FTT^ALY, 

COMMANDING  D.  S.  IlKVENl'K  8TEAMEI:  COKWIN. 


BY 


Tniltn  LTRUT.  .lOIlN  (5,  (iANTWELL, 

U.     H.     It.     M. 


18  8  5. 


m 


hKTTKU  OK  TKANSMITTAL. 


r.  S.   Kkvkni'k  Stkamkk  ('oUWIN, 

Siiii   b'ldiirinvit,  (V(/.,  Jiiniiitri/  'i(K  issr,. 
SiK :  lltTcwitli  is  n'S|)i'cirully  Iriiiisiiiillcil  ,1  nurrativc  lu'ciiiini  of  tbo  I'xplnratioiiM  ul'  \\u- 
Kowiik  Uivcr,  Altiskii,  together'  witli  |ilintn){i'ii|i|is  ainl  ski-tclicH  ininUi  liy  nut  in  tliiit  ri'Kioii. 

TIh'  rcpDi'l  (111  111!'  iiiiliirul  liistni  V  is  midcr  iircparatioii  l>y  Mr.  Cliarlt'H  II.  TdwiihciiiI.  and 
11  iMipy  will  lif  (Iclivcrcil  to  vmi  as  mooii  as  cnmiilctccl. 

I  rc(«l  Miirc  you  will  iimlcrstiviid  tin-  ililllcultii's  iiinltT  which  I  havo  hvJxircil  in  attciiiptinj,' 
to  conipilt'  till'  ilata  wliicli  we  have  Iit'cii  at  such  pains  to  collect.,  anil  in  (HmHcquoncc  ticctn  it 
ainioHt  unnecessary  to  ask  your  imlnlj^ence  for  its  many  iinpcrf<«<'tionH. 

I  desire  to  placit  inyHcIf  on  rcconl  aw  liein^;  nniler  ^reat  olili^^atioiiH  to  you  for  ovcry  favor 
that  has  lieeii  shown  t<i  iih-  in  the  matter  of  the  exitlorations.  Much,  if  not  all.  of  the  honor 
of  liein><  the  pioui'ers  at  the  headwaters  of  liie  Kowak  is  due  directly  to  your  forethriuj,-lil,  and 
the  example  you  set  me  of  well-sustained  and  indomitable  cniTgy.  I  thank  you  for  thiH  ami 
for  all  your  kindness,  and  hix  ♦"  suhscrilic  myself, 

Very  truly  and  Kiatcfullv,  your  obedient  servant, 

.lollX  O.  OANTWELI., 

Tliinl  Linitciuiiil,  ('.  ,S'.  li.  M. 
Caj.t.  M.  A.  TiKAi.v. 

Ci>iiniHni(lin<i  I'.  S.  A'.  .S'.  ('<inriii,  Sim  Fntiicisvii,  Ciil. 

!»3 


II.  K».  15J,  .|.;  I 


I'.S.  Kl-.\  KM   K  MAKINK  I.X  I'll  >K|  N(.  I'AK  I'V,  K()\\  AK   KI\I-.K      iSSs 


THE  EXPLORATION  OF  THE  KOWAK  RIVER,  ALASKA. 


,..«, 


On  th<i  M  of  July,  IS8.5,  the  second  expedition  for  tlic  exploration  of  the  Kowak  River.       J 
umliT  the  (lii'i'ctioii  of  Ciwit    M     A     J^f"'.'.!y,  ;',.;.i.iiainiiiiK  liie  U.  H.  revenue-cntter  Cuniin,        ' 
left  that  vt'sscl  oil'  liotliani   Inlet.  Alaska,  and  licailcd  in  towards  the  land.     Fortunately  the 
sea  was  sniootli  and  the  boats  of  the  expedition  crossed  the  bar  and  reached  a  good  hai'hor  in 
safely. 

In  addition  to  the  steaui-launch  of  the  i'oriciii,  a  nativeskin  lioat.  about  twenty-eight  feet 
in  length.  Wius  procured  to  trans|»ort  our  eanip  outfit  and  an  extra  sup)ily  of  coal  which  we 
brought  along.  We  cxiiicled  to  tiuil  at  this  place  the  Indians'  i'cndi'/,voiis  I'oi'  tlicir  summer 
trading,  but  none  had  as  yet  aiTive(l,  and  we  experienced  some  dilliculty  in  getting  a  suitable 
boat  and  an  additioiuil  number  of  Indians  to  accompany  us  up  the  I'iver.  However,  1  induced 
one  man  to  forego  the  jdeasures  of  the  reiide/vous  to  go  with  us,  and  with  a,  rickety  apology  for 
a  boat.  loade(l  down  to  her  rail  with  coal  and  stores,  we  start"d  up  llothani  Inlet  toward  the 
mouth  of  the  Kowak.  A  brisk  northwest  wind  sprang  U])  and  rapidly  iiu'reased  to  half  a  gale 
after  we  had  faii'ly  got  started.  The  conformation  of  the  shore  is  such  that  no  protection  can 
be  had  foi-  small  boats  with  the  wind  in  this  direction,  ami  our  only  hojie  lay  in  reaching  the 
mouth  of  (he  rivei'  before  a  heavy  sea  was  made  in  the  inlet. 

Our  sail  was  hoisted  ami  with  the  skin  boat  in  tow  we  sped  away.  k"e[)ing  as  much  as  pos- 
sil)le  nnder  the  high  lilufVs  on  the  west  side  of  the  inlet.  In  rounding  the  points  which  i)ro- 
ject  from  this  side  of  the  bay.  however,  (he  deeply  loaded  boats  were  nearly  swam|)e(|,  jincl  our 
Indians  were  very  min-h  afraiil  that  the  old  skin  boat  would  be  pulled  to  pieces  by  lieing  (owed 
so  fast.  All  hands  were  kept  bailing,  and  (he  Hteamdaunch  was  kej)t  free  of  water  with  the 
aid  of  the  steani-pnmp.  steam  being  usimI  for  this  purpose  only,  and  a(  ;t  o'clock  a.  m.  of  .lidy  ;{ 
we  reached  a  point  opposKe  a  month  of  (he  river  which  I  explored  last,  year,  and  bringing  our 
marks  in  range,  we  ma<le  a  bold  d.-isli  across  the  now  rough  inlet,  and  in  a  few  inomtMds  found 
otirselves  safely  between  the  low  gi-een  banks  of  the  stream.  Noom-  hail  as  yet  had  .any  sleep, 
and  I  thei'efore  arranged  (he  par(y  in(o  (wo  wa(ches.  (o  relieve  each  other  every  six  hours,  and 
in  (his  way  avoideil  (he  necessily  of  s(o]i])iiig  to  camp. 

Before  leaving  San  Kranci.sco.  several  additions  had  been  made  to  the  launch,  which  wero 
suggested  by  the  exiterience  of  last  year's  wcirk.  Among  them  the  most  noti(;eable,  us  con- 
tributing to  the  7'apid  advance  of  the  pai'ty.  were  the  following: 

(1)  A  sheet-iron  stove,  made  to  lit  in  forwai'd  of  (lit^  boiler. 

(2)  The  enlaigenient  of  the  furnace. 

(:i)  An  arrangeme'it  of  the  (^\haust-i)ipe  by  which  the  feed  water  was  heateil  before  enter- 
ing (he  boiler. 

In  addilion  to  these  improvements,  it  may  bo  noticed  tin.,  the  extra  sup])ly  of  coal  brought 
along  saved  us  the  n<>cessity  of  stop|)ingto  cut  wood.  It  will  be  seen,  therefore,  that  oui'ou(fit 
was  most  complete  and  we  were  enabled  to  eat  and  sleep  while  ailvan<'ing  at  the  rate  of  seven 
knots  ])er  hour. 

The  lower  part  of  the  river  being  entirely  free  from  obstructions,  and  having  but  little  cur 
rent,  wemade  rapid  jirogress.  stoppingonceonly.  at  an  Indian  .settlement  aboTit  tliiily  miles  fi-om 
the  month  of  the  river,  to  leave  our  nuvst  and  sailH,  a  supjjly  of  coal  and  provisions,  (o  form  a 
H.  Ex.  bW 4  20 


26  CKUIHE  OF  THE  STEAMER  CORWLV. 

bast'  of  supplipB  in  case  of  any  afcidtuit.  ami  at  tlie  mul  of  two  days  we  reachwl  tliat  j)art  of  tlm 
river  wiicrti  it  Ifavi's  tiic  vicinity  of  Di-viation  Peak  ant!  triMuis  to  tlio  soutliwani  toward  liie 
nionntainn  iyinj^  Ix'twccn  tlic  Ki)\vaii  Vallt-y  and  Sclawik  Laku  region.  Upon  (■onii>aris()ii  I 
found  Miat  Hiis  j)oint  was  ifailicd  aftoi'  ten  days'  tt'didiis  woi'k  in  I8KI,  and  tiii'  fad  j^avt'  us 
ail  considcrabir  picasurr. 

At  till'  lower  rapids  flic  Indians  of  a  lisliin^  villap',  situated  just  aliove,  met  us  and  se''  inj? 
the  tow-line  of  l)otli  l)oats  draKK*'d  us  tlii-ou;;li  the  hardest  places,  with  many  manifestations  of 
deli><ht  at  seeinj^  usa^ain.  I  recoi^nized  nuiuy  old  triends,  and  was  in  turn  recoj^nized  hy  them, 
and  was  cordially  invited  to  remain  at  the  vdlajje  for  a  while.  I  sl()i)jied  long  enouKh  to  dis- 
trihute  some  tritlin^  ]>resents  and  then  proceeded. 

On  .Fnly  4  our  patriotic  fervor  was  somewhat  <lani|iened  by  a  steady  downpour  of  rain. 
Avhicli  lasted  all  day  and  caused  the  river  to  lise  ra]»idly.  Towards  nijjlit  we  reached  the  sec- 
ond ra|)ids,  where  coal  was  first  di.sc<)verwl  by  nm  last  year.  Here  wt«  encountitred  a  heavy  cur- 
rent, and  with  dillicidty  fJfot  throujfh.  Some  t  wentv  ln<lians  of  the  (!«li!?i>^  \iIl.M»..  Mc<-f.i>>.p:'.:<.i'."! 
us  and  allorded  us  j^reat  assistance  at  Ihih!  point.  Once  past  this  stilf  poi'tion  of  the  river  the 
little  launcdi  pufFed  steadily  away,  and  mile  after  mile  <if  the  now  familiar  shores  were  left 
behind. 

<  Ml  duly  T)  our  sujiply  of  coal  jj;ave  out,  ami  we  were  coin|ielled  to  stop  for  wood  ;ind  make 
uur  tirst  camp,  on  a  sand-spit  about  ten  miles  lielow  the  point  where  I  abandoned  the  launch 
in  issf. 

We  had  now  reacheil  that  part  of  the  river  where  it  winds  around  the  foot  of  the  ,I;ide 
Mountain  and  then  j^oes  wand(<riu;;:  away  more  toward  the  southeast.  In  this  vicinity  the 
width  of  the  stream  is  greater  than  at  any  other  jiortion  of  its  course.  In  some  places  it. 
measures  at  least  ei^ht  hundred  yards. 

It  was  with  a  j^reat  ileal  of  an.xiety  that  we  watched  the  steam-ffaup'  after  our  coal  had 
liecoine  exhausted  and  we  commenced  to  l)urn  wood,  and  when  the  dial  indicafiMl  a  steady 
pressure  of  ei^^hty  jiounds  I  knew  we  had  nothing  to  fear,  A  great  deal  of  inconvenience  was 
suffered  during  the  trijt  made  with  the  launch  in  ISSf,  owing  to  the  quantities  of  sparks  coming 
from  the  funnel.  This  year  no  spai'ks  at  all  came  out,  wiiich  I  attribute  to  the  fact  that  the 
exhaust  steam,  being  led  into  the  funnel,  efToctually  extinguished  them.  About  noon  of  the 
next  day  we  stopped  at  sonic  high  sand  dunes  to  cut  wood.  Op]iosile  us  the  .Jade  i\lonnt;iiii 
could  be  easily  distinguished  from  the  surrounding  ](eaks  by  its  peculiar  greenish  color. 

Photographs  of  this  range,  extending  from  I)(>viafion  Peak  neai'ly  east  towurd  the  interior, 
vt'iT  obtained. 

An  old  winter  habitation  was  discovered  a  short  distance  from  the  river,  and  Mr.  Town- 
seia'  and  1  proci'eded  to  exf.mine  it.  The  sjiot  had  no  doubt  been  selected  on  account  of  its 
sheltered  situation.  Tin  densely  wooded  ridges  running  in  on  the  river  surrounded  the  collec- 
tion of  huts  almost  coniitletely.  and  ai)proach  to  the  village  was  made  by  way  of  a  nai'row  trail 
leading  from  the  river.  The  hou.ses  were  built  by  excavating  a  sipiai'e  hole  five  feet  deep  and 
from  twenty  to  twenty-tive  feet  sipnire.  Stakes  or  piles  of  spruce  were  driven  close  together 
along  the  walls,  and  long  poles  were  then  laid  across  the  ti)]>,  forming  the  roof  of  the  house. 
The  necessary  pitch  to  shed  rain  was  obtained  by  covering  the  outside  with  earth  iirranged  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  produce  a  mound-shajied  structure.  We  pushed  aside  the  ..II  gra.ss  w  Isu-h 
choked  the  entrance  and  crawled  on  (air  hands  and  knees  along  a  narrow  passage  just  large 
enough  for  one  at  a  time,  until  we  reached  the  large  chamber  which  doubtless  constituted  t!  e 
living  room.  A  small  square  hole  in  the  middle  of  the  roof  furnished  us  suflicient  light  to  see 
the  interior.  On  the  floor,  along  the  sides  of  the  walls,  if  I  may  so  call  them,  w^on*  i.iid  small 
willow  wands,  ujion  which  the  inmates  were  m'customed  to  lay  their  skins  and  .sleep.  In  Ihe 
centi'i- a  square  space  was  left,  where  could  be  si^en  the  charred  .sticks  of  a  long-extinct  fire. 
We  set  fire  to  a  few  <lry  sticks,  and  the  smoke  shot  nj)  in  a  straight  column  f  hrougli  the  oj)ening 
in  the  roof,  showing  that  ilefective  flues  are  a  .source  of  annoyance  not  yet  known  to  the 
natives. 

We  were  glad  to  escape  from  the  close,  moldy  iilniosphere  of  the  plai-e  and  emerge  once 


II.  i: 


l3«fe- 


filkiiiMt^mMmi\,gmmtm«m  ■otmnjibiiiSiaiSSil'^' 


KOWAK    Kl\  l.l^  .\l    \'>K  A.     IKAMI':  l-DK    JK.V  r. 


-.-.^    .              -.:&i^-                         ^    ---^_  -   _  ,    ._^ 

KllW  \K   Kl\  I.K,  Nl    \U   IIKM    HAI'IDS. 


CRUIHK  OF  THK  STKAMKH  COKWIN.  27 

iiiorr  into  tlxt  clciu'.  wiii'iii  Hiinsliin*';  arxl  nf  wi>  (■oiitfiiiplulcd  tlix  l)i*aiity  of  t)i<>  day  T  could  nut 
]ifl|i  lull  lliiiik  liiiw  l<'i'i'il)ly  ili-t-ary  itiid  di-soliilc  lilt-  iiiiist  lir  in  siicli  ii  lii>lt>  wlicii  tlui  sun  liad 
gouti  tu  thu  fur  Houtli  iiud  tlio  iri'ii  ^riiH])  of  tliu  lon^  Art'tic  iiIkIiI  wiih  luid  upon  tint  HiU-iit  (turtli. 

In  till'  nu'itn  Unit!  the  sound  of  llic  ii\  and  saw  was  waking  tliot'cliocsuf  tlu'  silent  liills.  and 
tlif  i)irds,  iiniuscd  liy  tlie  stranj^n  cnninnition,  llultcriMl  iifi'vously  IIii'oukIi  tli>'  dcnso  fnliap', 
ln'cnniinj;  easy  victims  to  Mr.  Tiiwnscnd's  insatiai)io  desire  for  spefiniens. 

A  II  day  we  steanuid  ahead,  j^radiially  leavin;;  I  he  .lade  Mountain  hehind  us  and  uppi-oaehiu}^' 
the  nionnt.'iins  ilindy  visible  in  the  southeast.  Towai'd  ni^lit  we  reached  the  reniai'kalile  hi;r|i 
clay  hluIVs  lunnin^;  in  on  the  I'iver  from  the  south.  This  mai'ks  the  spot  where  a  portage  exists, 
whereliy  a  short  ranK*'  of  mountains  hearing  south  from  the  .lade  Mountain  can  lie  reached  in 
oim  day.  This  rauK"  separates  the  Kowuk  from  thu  Helawik  Kiver.  or  I'ather  from  its  north 
lirancli,  as  it  is  divided  some  1.50  miles  from  its  mouth.  The  course  of  the  Kowtik  is  heie  east- 
southeast  hy  compass. 

A  lij^ht  rain  set  in  <lurin>^  the  afternooii  ,vnd  stinidily  increased  until  ahout  |o  ]).  m.,  when 
it  ceiised  lon^  enou^li  to  en;il)le  us  to  camp. 

1  am  convinced  liy  the  evidenci'<>f  the  natives  that  clo.se  communication  could  1 st;il>- 

lislnnl  between  the  Selawik.  Kowak,  and  Noiitak  Rivers  at  this  point.  It  is  more  than  jindialile 
thiit  the  course  of  the  latter  stre;iin  is  nearly  parallel  to  that  of  the  Kowak,  and  is  separated  from 
it  liy  the  ran^e  of  inoiiiilains  of  which  the  .lade  Mountain  is  a  rem.'irkiilile  feature.  It  is  also 
nioi-e  than  likely  that  the  Noiitak  turns  here  more  to  the  northwest  and  c<intinnes  this  course 
until  liroujjht  up  hy  the  coast  i-anj^e.  when  its  course  is  chanp'd  toward  thi'  south,  and  it  so  c<in- 
tiuues  to  tlow  until  it  empties  into  llotham  Inlet. 

All  ni;^lit  the  r.iin  came  down  in  .-i  steady  sti'eam.  and  the  river  rose  .so  rapidly  that  I  feai'ixl 
our  ciimp  would  lie  washed  away.  When  we  lurneil  out  in  the  morning  the  nu'iuliers  of  the 
jiarty  emery;ed  from  tlnMi-  wet  blankets  like  half-drowned  rats,  cold,  wet.  and  miserable,  .md 
caused  me  to  wonder  if  the  ori;^inatoi'  of  the  expression,  "  I'ut  a  wet  lilaid<et  on  it,"  ever  had 
any  pra<'ticjil  experience  of  the  full  force  and  sij^nilicance  of  the  simile.  Several  times  during' 
the  ilay  liefoi-e  all  of  tln^  party  were  compelled  to  K"^  overboard  and  shove  the  launch  olf  a 
sand-liar,  and  in  doinjj;  so  were  wet  thr<iujj;h  and  thi'tin\;h  ;  but  these  discomforts  were  tre.itiNl 
with  indilfereiice.  It  Wiis  only  when  the  i-.ain  steadily  poni'ed  down  and  Hooded  their  sleepinj^ 
(puirters  lh.it  the  p;vrty  seemed  dejected;  and  I  was  not  surjii'ised  when  I  turni>d  out  that  they 
came  forward  in  a  liody  and.  Iike(  )liver  Twist.  re(iuested  more  noiwishment.  I  caiuiot  say  that 
I  experienced  as  much  in<li,i;nat  ion  .-is  Mr.  Humble  is  reported  to  have  felt  in  the  c.-ise  of  ( )li  ver, 
and  an  add  it  inial  .'ilhiwance  of  colfee  w;is  .served  out.  The  sun  soon  came  out,  and  having'  e.aten 
allot  breakl'iist  the  natuvid  buoyancy  of  the  party  asserted  itself  and  the  night's  discomforts 
were  forKoltcn. 

Dnrint;  the  niornin^c  wi'  passed  the  vill.'it;e  lln-nah-tak,  but  no  natives  were  observeil,  they 
haviiifj;  as  yet  not  taken  up  their  i(uarters  for  the  summer's  (ishiiif^.  After  the  r.-iin  myriads  of 
nios(]uitooH  came  out  of  Ihe  swjimpy  lands,  ;inil  our  lives  wei'e  made  niisi^rablu  by  the.se  pests. 
A  slittlit  relief  was  obtainecl  by  coverintf  all  exposed  parts  of  the  body  with  a  thick  varnish 
niadi)  of  tar.  ixnui  ai'abic,  an<l  olive  oil;  but  even  with  this  disajj[reealile  preventive  oiir  sull'er- 
iiif^H  were  simjily  indescribabh!. 

ToWiird  I  (I'clock  til"  rain  be^ijan  .aii^ain,  and  when  we  stop])ed  tocaiuji,  at  10  ]i.  ni.,  the  very 
flood-f^ates  of  he.-iven  si^t'iued  to  have  Ikmui  opi'iieil.  Our  (Nimp  was  niiide  under  tlu'  protect  inif 
branches  of  a  denser  fj;rowtli  of  spruce  which  boi'dei'ed  the  stream.  The  limber  id  on  <j;  this  jiart  of 
the  river  is  , IS  heavy  as  seen  iinywhere;  the  trees  art^  from  eif^hty  t<i  one  hundred  feet  hij^li, 
and  from  ten  to  fourteen  inches  in  diameter.  Some  trees  weriMibserved  in iich  Ijiri^er,  but  they 
foi'ined  the  exception  to  the  f^eneral  rule. 

The  mornin,tj<if  .Inly  S,  th(>aniiiver.siiry  <if  thedeiiartnre  from  the  Co/v/-//*  of  thefii'st  expedi- 
iou  for  the  exploration  of  the  Kowuk,  was  ushered  in  by  a  terrilic  rain-storm,  made  doubly  dis- 
aj^reeable  by  ji  strong  southeast  >j;;de  which  blew  directly  in  our  f.-ices,  and  our  |ii'o^n'ess  was  neces- 
sai'ily  very  slow  and  tedious.  The  shores  of  the  river  were  as  wiilely  separated  as  ever  during'  tin; 
day's  udvunce,  but  tho  channel  became  nurrow  and  intricate.  Sand-bars,  extendiuj;  in  every 
direction,  and  gravel  beds  made  Ihe  work  of  lindiiu;  the  channel  very  diflicult.     About  noon 


28  CRUISE  OK  THE  STKAMKK  COllWlN. 

wi«  cntcnMl  II  rciicli  of  (lie  I'ivtT,  sumi'  fivt-  liiiinlri'il  yiirds  widi'.  iilimist  rompletoly  cliokorl  wi(h 
Haiiil-l)iU's,  hihI  iiltliiiii^li  I  IiimI  si-I  ii|i  nui>;)'s  fur  tlii<  (;liiuiiii'l  lust  yoar,  it  liiul  8u  cuiiiiiloluly 
(■lituiK*«l  tliiii  it  wiiM  not  until  t  n'clock  tlnit  \vi<  tiiuilly  ^nt  tluouKli.  Tliu  uurrout  at  tlilH  pluco 
WHS  I'l'uni  live  to  six  knots  pfr  Imur  iin<l  incri'iisinK  willi  llif  r'isc  of  the  I'Ivit.  AI  this  pnint 
unit  in  till-  vicinity  of  the  ,|iult>  Moiinluin  liii-  Imlians  of  tin-  riviT  scrni  t<i  n'nili'/.\'<ins  for  tin- 
HuniintT  lisliinK':  Init  on  uccoimt  of  tiiu  provaiiinK  liif^li  watui-  l)iit  littio  work  has  Ix-rn  ijoni'  so 
far  in  that  ilin-ction. 

It  is  ilitliciilt  to  dcscTilM'  t«ich  day's  advanc»'  and  avoid  ropolition.  Kor  Inindrtds  of  miles 
afti>r  leaving  tlicddta.  with  its  hroktMi  pcrpcndirnlar  hanks  of  iilack  silt-likt'carth,  tlu'  (.-onntry 
is  tint  sani*'  low,  rolling  tundra  land,  hacked  to  the  northward  hy  a  chain  of  mountains  extend- 
ing front  the  coast  eastward  .-is  far  as  the  eye  can  reiu'h.  Sometimes  we  wander  away  toward 
the  south  and  hrin^  short,  detachrd  ranges  of  ruKK*'*!  nionntains  into  view;  lint  soon  the  river, 
as  if  tired  of  these  lesser  heiifhts,  sec^ks  once  more  the  slnulowsof  the  more  pretentions  ran^e. 
For  a  lon^  distan<'e  in  this  locality  iiio  tiinher  !klon>^  tim  rive,'  hank  is  scarce,  and  Honu'limes 
for  honi's  we  steam  past  level  plains  with  not  a  sii;n  of  n  I  I'ce  or  plant  except  the  ever-present 
Arctic  moss.  The  hanks  of  the  river  here  are  from  ten  to  lit  teen  feel  hij^li.  and  com  pose  •(  I  hM>,'ely 
of  ice.  At  half  past  II  we  reached  an  island,  a  short  distiince  nhove  the  hi^^hest  position 
reached  hy  me  in  Is,*!),  and  camped.  The  continnecl  rains  have  caused  a.  freshet  in  the  rixi-r, 
and  it  is  now  tilled  with  <lrift  wood  and  ileltris  from  the  shores.  N'owan<l  then  we  pass  deserted 
Indian  villaKes  which  ha<l  lu'en  washed  out,  and  not  infrcipiently  we  meet  a  li'/icr  or  summer 
hut.  remindim;  one  \ery  much  of  an  innnense  inverted  wicker  hasket,  (loatini;  away  toward 
the  sea.  llpon  the  upper  end  of  the  island,  wher'e  we  camped  for  the  ni^^ht.  a  previous  tlood 
had  deposited  a  huKe  pile  of  driftwood,  whiidi  we  soon  converted  into  a  hontire.  Worn  out. 
wet,  and  chilled  throu.i;:h  hy  the  hard  day's  woi'k  in  the  lioats,  we  stretched  ourselves  around 
the  lire,  and  soon  only  the  roar  of  the  tljimes  as  they  shot  slr.iij^ht  up  in  tiie  still  jiir,  ami  tiie 
murmur  of  Ihi'  river  as  it  I'aced  past  the  islaml.  hroke  the  .solemn  stillness  of  the  ui.t,'ht. 

As  usual,  we  hei^iui  work  next  mornin>;  in  the  midst  of  a  rain-storm.  The  rivei-  rose  a  foot 
ilurin>^  the  iiiy^ht,  and  the  larj4;e  (pnmtity  of  driftwooil  coming  down  sti'eani  showed  that  it  was 
still  risiui,'.  I  ohserved  anionic  othei' drift-stutV  a  jiieceof  sod  twenty  feet  scpiai'e.  upheld  hytlie 
hiioyancy  ol  the  willow  roots  itcontained.  A(  half  past 'i  we  reaclieil  a.  tishiiii;-  .illaKc  sit- 
uated on  a 'gravel  lieach  at  tlm  lower  end  of  a  larjje  island  in  the  riser.  Here  1  nu't  several 
natives  whom  I  saw  at  the  villai^e  of  lIni-iio(;-a-lnk-ta  in  jssi.  ;iiid  I  induced  three  of  them 
to  accompany  "ur  [larty.  The  lather  of  the  hiicks.  a,  ;i;ray-liaii'ed  Indian,  informed  me  of  the 
dirticidties  we  would  experience  in  reachinj^  the  headwatei's  of  the  river,  .s.-iyiiiK  that  the 
natives  never  .■ittem|(teil  to  carry  their  hoats  hitcher  than  a  place  which  he  descrihetl  as  heinjr 
peil'cclly  im|i.iss;ilile  with  l)o,ils.  ()pposite  this  vil!au;e  ;^  liranch  of  the  I'iver  Hows  in  at  such 
an  am;le  as  to  form  a  very  danj^erous  whirlpool.  Our  whole  expedition  wimld  douhiless  have 
sulfered  wreck  here  had  not,  the  natives  warned  ns  to  keep  close  to  the  otliei- shore.  Diirinnj 
very  ;creat  fi-eshets  the  Indians  say  tli.at  this  v.'hirlpool  hecomes  exceedinf.cly  dau<.(ei'ous,  and 
that  lar^e  trees  are  drawn  out  of  si^^ht  when  caut,f|it  within  its  vortex. 

The  tiinher  alon>;  the  river  hanks  in  this  locality  a^ain  heconies  plentiful,  and  for  loiijj;  dis- 
tances forests  of  spruct*,  pine,  and  larch  extend  fioni  the  water's  edj^e  to  the  mountains.  Tlii' 
course  of  tlii^  stream  here  is.  generally  speaking,  to  the  southeast  until  it  reaches  a  spur  <it  a 
I'an^e  of  mountains  treudinjj  to  the  southwest,  tvhei'e  it  turns  shai'ply  to  the  northeast  and  so 
continue.s  until  turnc^d  to  the  e.-istward  apvin  by  the  raujjfe  of  mountains  which  form  the  north- 
ern houudiiry  of  the  Kowak  Valley. 

When  we  reached  the  mountains  on  the  .south  si(h' of  the  valley  ami  turned  towards  the 
nortlu'iist,  the  short's  of  tlio  stream  suddenly  contracted  from  four  hundred  and  tifty  to  two  hun- 
dred yards,  and  the  current  increased  from  four  to  seven  knots.  We  put  on  one  hundred  pounds 
of  steam,  and  with  the  assistance  of  the  Indians  jiaddliut;  their  hoats  were  harely  ahle  to  stem 
the  current.  The  shores  on  both  sides  were  clothed  with  a  ilense  ^.jrowth  of  willow  and  small 
sjirnce,  and  were  iierfectly  ini)ias.sahl(>.  so  that  we  couhl  not  resort  to  towiiif^.  Toward  ■( 
o'(dock  the  sun  hroke  throufj;li  the  I'ain  clouds  for  a  short  time,  drying  our  wet  clothinj,'  and 
(..imp  outlit,  which  had  lieen  soaked  continually  for  three  days.     Toward  Id  o'clock  we  reached 


(MtUIHK  OK  THK  STKAMKK  CORWIN.  29 

ft  part  of  th«<  rivtir  wlioro  it  is  iliviiU'il  iiil<>  tlnoc  pintN.  iiiul  Iikih  lit<n«  oh  miiny  iHlmulH  were 
fitdiid.  Oil  lui  iHluiKl  wliicli  WD  i'ohcIuhI  iilMnit  II  p.  m.  wi>  ilincovfrtxl  two  Iiidiiiii  woiiicii,  with 
tlii'ct*  (■liililmi,  HWiiitiii^tlii^  I'xpoctcii  run  of  salinnii.  'riuir  IniMliitinlH  wore  ivwuy  in  tlio  mount- 
aiii.s  hunting  (Iri'r,  uml  IId' wonicn  iiml  ciiildri'ii  liiid  liri'ii  sulisistinK  lor  days  on  llic  yo'in^ 
HliootN  of  tint  willows  growing  nciir  tlu<  rivri'  Ixuiks.  W'f  ^;av't<  tlicin  li  t'niMt  in  tlm  wity  of  pmi- 
nncjin.  hard  bread,  and  lea.  and  when  we  tiidshcd  liy  i  picsfnt  of  a  snuill  ipwintity  ot°  toliacco 
Iht'ir  /i^ratilndr  sccnit'ii  to  lie  lii-yond  cxjircssioii. 

'I'lic  skin  lioat  was  ludnudcil  Ihtc  and  -^'Vcral  wrak  placfs  in  her  liollum  iTpaircd  liy  tin- 
wtiincn.  Tin-y  also  n'|)aii('d  lim  hoots  ol'  thn  |.">rty  wInU'  wi«  were  asleep.  We  ohseived  with 
eacii  tiay'sadvanre  a  h)Worin>?  of  the  tein]ieratnr(>o!'  tho  rivur  wiilttr,  muHed  no  douht  iiy  nuni- 
her's  of  small  Irilmlary  >iti"eains,  fed  hy  tlie  niellin^  snoiv  and  ice  in  the  piounlains.  In  IImh 
conneelion  il  may  lie  of  interest  to  note  that  many  small  slreaui."  tlowini;  iiilo  the  Kowak  from 
the  mountains,  which  are  at  the  pn'soiit  time  rnneli  Inwov  in  tum|«i.'!iiif  I'l.in  ihe  i  iver  water, 
<io  not  free/e  during  the  winter  on  account  of  tint  fai^t  that  they  are  fed  hy  springs  whose  tern- 
perulure  never  p'ls  sullicii'nily  low  to  freeze.  [  couhl  not  help  hut  think  that  lhe.se  streams, 
home  of  whi(di  I  fonml  contained  from  two  to  two  and  a  half  fathoms  water,  would  afl'ord 
excellent  facilities  foi-  laying  ni>  !io,us  useil  liy  future  explorers  or  trailers  on  this  river. 

<  >n  July  III,  after  leavin^f  a  small  supply  nf  provision.',  with  t  he  Indian  women,  we  pushed 
ahead  up  sti'eam,  and  not  withstanding^  the  fact  that  the  launch  was  urj^ed  to  her  fidl  capacity, 
the  cui'i'ent  liecameso  stronj4;as  \\v  advanced  th.at  hut  indiil'erent  proj;re,-.s  was  made.  A  short 
while  aftei'  leavinj^  camp  we  came  to  a  part  of  the  river  wln-re  it  suddenly  widens  and  forms  a 
kind  of  lake,  ahoul  !ialf  a  mile  in  diamel^>r.  The  water,  separaleii  into  many  small  cliannelH 
liy  sauil  antl  >;rav(  I  hars,  hecanie  ipute  shoal;  hut  we  uiauap'd  tti  K('t  the  launtdi  thniiij,di  liy 
f(('tti\)H  ovcrhoanl  and  towing?  her  over  tho  worst  parts.  Whenever  opportunity  olVei'ed,  towiiij; 
alonw  shore  was  resorted  to,  hut  on  account  of  the  prevailing  ImhIi  water  the  heaidies  were  .-ill 
sulimerjfed,  leaving  no  place  (o  walk  alc.n;j;  Ihe  hanks,  'i'o  jidd  to  our  disconifiri't  we  were  in 
constant  danger  of  heinjir  swaniiM'cl  hy  lloatinv;  trees,  which  we  frecpiently  encountered.  Their 
pi'o>j;ress  wiis  so  rapid  and  yet  so  imperce|itilile  that  it  reipiired  the  utmost  caulioii  to  avoid 
them.  Prohahly  in  no  way  can  the  stren><tli  of  the  current  he  hetter  understood  Ihiui  liy 
watchinj;  Ihe  pron'ress  of  one  of  llie.se  trees  down  stream.  .At  lirst  it  appears  as  u  mere  speck 
on  the  surface  of  the  river,  seenun^ly  cpiite  stationary;  then,  as  it  reaches  t  he  intluence  of  some 
eddy,  its  course  is  chauf^ed  and  it  shoots  directly  across  the  stream  until  il  hrinj^s  up  with  a 
tremendous  crash  iiji;ainst.  the  opposite  hank.  .Hei'e  it  will  remain  an  olistacle  to  naviijalion 
until  some  future  freshet  tears  its  clinging  r(Nits  from  the  shore  ami  sen<ls  it  tetirinK  on  its 
<|owiiward  course  a;j;ain.  Sometinu'S  it  ha[i|iens  that  a  hir^e  tTci- with  roots  tilled  with  eartli, 
and  looking  •'!>'  i'  hut  rerenlly  fallen,  will  n'roiind  on  some  >;;i'a\  el  hed  in  miii-str'eam.  The  top 
swin;4;s  slowly  down  stream  and  Ihe  water  pours  in  a  cataract  over  the  roots.  In  ;i  moment 
the  loose  earth  IS  washed  away,  thestronj^.  pliant  hi-aindies.  home  down  liy  the^jiant  j^rasp  of 
the  river,  hend  and  hreak;iind  when  at  last  the  tree  shakes  oil'  this  tirrihie  <,'iip  ami  rises  to 
I  he  sni'f::re  t  here  remains  only  a  whiti'iied  linj^er  of  veuf^eance.  which  points  .sadly  at  t  he  mur- 
deler  as  he  flees  t<i  the  sea. 

Now  the  river  contracts  its  lied  to  on(»  hundreil  and  lifty  yards  in  width  and  runs  directly 
under  I  he  shallow  of  the  mountains  formin^j;  its  northern  houndary.  'i'he  slioies  are  rocky  ami 
the  sides  of  the  mountains  are  moss-covered  to  their  tops.  Forests  of  spi'uce.  |iine,  and  hirch 
ji;ive  to  the  scene  an  air  of  jieaceful  repose,  more  in  accord  with  the  character  of  a  New  Kn^land 
landscape  than  isp'uerall.v  looked  for  within  the  .\rctic  Zone. 

The  ;i;eneral  trend  of  the  mountains  is  still  e.ast  and  west,  and  the  course  of  therivei',  although 
exceedingly  tortuous,  follows  Ihe  same  fr(>||i>|';i|  direction.  The  mountains  which  hound  the 
Kowak  Valh^v  on  tin*  soutli  are  alioiit  ten  nnles  away  at  this  point,  iind  now  ho^in  to  assume  a 
more  delinite  sha]ie  and  direction.  Their  i;eneral  direction  hein;.;  southwest  .-ind  northeast,  the 
two  rauKcs  rapidly  coiiverj^e.  and  at  :i  point  far  ahead  seem  to  almost  join.  To-day  wi'  pa.ssed 
two  niontlis  of  tho  E-yo^f-a-lok-tak,  or  Rocky  River,  and  it  is  evidently  a  stream  of  sonn*  coii- 
sideralile  size,  as  its  rours<>  could  he  traced  for  a  lont;  distance  to  the  iioi'th  wai'il,  and  its  delta 
■was  two  or  tlirvo  miles  long.     In  this  vicinity  t  liu  cyuatry  lying  botweou  tUy  Kvwak  and  Noiituk 


80  rRUIHK  (»K  TIIIO  HTKAMKIl  COllWIN. 

Uivi-i-H  is  very  iiiiiiiiitiiiiiiiu.s,  iiiul  tlic  iiulivcs  uhmiui'  iiic  lliat  \\wiv  iirr  Iiii'k«  iniiiilK.'i-H  of  vfiy 
(lu«>|i  liikcH  itiiil  Niimll  rivt'iu 

.'  iiMiii;;  (III)  liiiiiMM'  olmrrvi'il  imii-  iittt'iitinii  liitM  Itrfii  litti'ui'tt'il  tn  lai'Ki'  Ki'"V**H  o|'  (lu'  Miilni 
ul'  (iili>u<l. 

Muiiy  ilfM-rtcil  wiiiti  r  villii^cH  wcir  iiliNt'i'vi'il  in  IhiN  n<Ki"».  ami  now  ami  lln  n  we  ralili 
hIkIiI  of  a  tail  jioln,  JM-ariuK  n  llullrrini;  |ii*iiiiuiit  ol'  hoimo  Kaily  roloinl  cjotli,  niarkin;^  tlicKi'uvn 
of  Hoini'  <ii'|iarlfil  liravc 

Tint  niinilN'i-of  iHliiiiilH  incrt'UHt'daN  wi;  ailvaiiciMl,  and  lli('i|t>|itli  of  wut*>r  wiiM^ri^atly  ijiniin- 
islii'il  hy  ItcinK  "livitlccl  into  no  many  cliannfls.  We  were  coiniwllt'il  lo  lake  tim  lai«fsl  rlianml 
in  onlrr  to  avoiil  ^cttinK  usiiorr.  an  luriili'iil  wliicli  wr  liail  l)ylliiH  liini>  It'ainol  to  ilicail. 
Tim  nioinrnl  tlic  laiincli  K>'"*<*i'lfil  wt>  lost  all  conti-ol  of  hor  niovitincntN:  hIio  ){ciiri-ally  Hwnn>; 
ai'onml  liroailHJili' to  tli<<  rnrt'cnl  ami  then  lay  oviw  on  lici'  licani-cnds.  It  of|i<ii  n-(|iiiri'<l  two 
or  llii't'f  lioni's  of  the  most  I'ati^ninK  woi-k,  dnriiiK  wliicli  tlii>  wliolr  jiarty  would  lie  wit  finm 

iluad  to  I'ooi   in  ilii'  it  y    iV.iti  i',  U,  rXtrii  ati-  Ihm    fioiii  tlii^  M.wWwiirij  |<.,>.i)i.in 

'I'lif  Indiaim  iid'oinuid  m*-  tluit  Licntrmint  Stoiu'y  al)andonfd  his  lanncli  mncli  fnitln  rdown 
Hti't'ain  last  year,  lint  I'cali/.iiiK  Hie  iniporlancr  of  ki'r|iinK  III*-  pai'ly  undivided  us  lon^  ns  jMissililt', 
1  dftci  iniiii'd  to  |insli  thn  lanncli  as  fuc  as  she  could  possilily  ^o,  trusting;  to  fntut'c  rains  to  ;;ct. 
iivr  down  a^ain. 

Toward  !t  p.  m.  wc  cincrKcfi  fi-oin  a  dcMwIy  wooded  Itcnd  ol  the  river  into  a  reach  trend- 
ing lo  the  southeast,  and  lieheld  a  low  rau^e  of  mountains  hearing  south  and  aliuut  twenty 
miles  distant.  The  sun  had  hcen  ohscurcd  all  day  and  the  rain  had  fallen  with  a  steady  per- 
HiHtt>iict<  winch  threateneil  either  to  reduce  us  to  pulp  or  drive  us  mad.  Now,  however,  tint 
weather  cleared,  the  ruKKed.  storni-wnrn  clouds  rolled  slowly  away,  and  the  sun  Imrsl  forth, 
causing  Ihesomlier  landscape  to  lilossom  into  life.  <  Mi  the  mountains  the  moss  lay  in  patches 
of  red,  lirowii,  and  ifi'iiy.  and  hclnw  it  lin*  forestH  of  spriUM*  were  tnruin>{  from  ^reeii  to  liliie, 
from  lilne  to  pur|ile,  and  soon  would  now  lie  hlack.  The  river,  which  a  moment  hefore  had 
Hci-med  a  turliid.  mmlily  torrent,  touched  liy  the  sunli^hl,  liecame  llaiuedike  in  its  radiance, 
and,  like  a  vast  mirroi'  frami'd  with  tlowers,  reflected  the  snn-kisseil  liei>;hts,  and  darkenin;; 
kIciis  with  truthful  impartiality.  A  dyiii);  dulphin  assumes  the  colors  of  the  rainliow;  so  dies 
a  summer  day  in  the  land  of  the  midnight  sun. 

At  (la.  III.,  .July  11,  we  were.a^fain  under  way  and  stiii;;;;lin;,'  slowly  ahead  ii^jiiiist  the  strong; 
I'urrent.  |{y  !i  a.  iii.  we  reached  a  sei'ies  of  ro'ky  lilulfs  rnmiiiij;  in  on  the  river  from  the  mount- 
uins  on  our  left.  I(er<t  tint  suiicuiniMint  lonKenou;;li  for  me  top't  an  observation,  and  ti.\ed  the 
position  approximately  as  latitude  (Hi   ,"i  I'  N..  lon>;itude  I  "iii    vM'  W.     The  river  here  is  aliout  two 

hundred  yards  wide  iiikI  liiled  with  ^(ravel  heds  in  every  direction.     The  shores  are  i ky  and  the 

undergrowth  reaches  the  water's  (<dj{e.  The  course  of  the  stream  was  j^eiierally  to  the  east- 
southeast  liy  compass.  Several  times  to-d,iy  we  were  compelleil  to  haul  the  launch  past  siilf 
port  ions  <if  the  current,  and  we  had  lon^  since  slopjied  towin;>;  the  skin  Imat.  it  liein^^  found 
more  advantaKcons  to  allow  the  Indians  tci  k*'*  ''  "I'  ''^  tl"'.V  J^aw  lit.  liy  •.'  p.  m.  we  <ame  in 
si;;ht  of  an  exceedin;^ly  rn^^j^cd  ramre  of  mountains,  formin;,'  a  spur  of  t he  lioumlai'y  ram.;e  on 
onr  left,  and  hidilen  until  then  liy  the  foot-hills  alon^  the  river.  I  judged  the  hei;;lit  of  these 
mountains  t<i  lie  twenty-tive  hundred  to  three  thousand  feet;  lint  I  hey  .seemed  at  lirst  sii(lit 
much  liiKlicr  on  account  of  tierce  precipitous  formations. 

VVe  oliserved  many  fresh  si^ns  of  hear,  porcupine,  and  deer  aloni,'  the  river  li.iiiks.  and  I  he 
natives  informed  me  that  <hos(^  animals  were  very  plentiful  in  the  iiiciuntains  in  this  rey;ion. 
Diirinu:  (he  colder  weathei' of  the  winter  months  the  deer  miujrate  farther  to  the  northeast. 
.\liont  1  p.  III.  the  expedition  reached  a  very  narrow  portion  of  the  river,  where  the  shores  were 
composed  of  almost  perpendicular  musses  of  conj^loiiierate  rock,  and  the  liecl  of  the  stream  was 
Ntrewii  with  hnj^e  liowldei's.  worn  smooth  and  round  liy  erosion. 

Tlie  current,  at  this  |ioinl  was  trememlous.  ami  it  was  only  after  about  two  hours"  hard 
.steaming,',  and  with  all  hands  pullinj^nn  the  tow-line,  that  we  jj;ot  the  launch  thi-oui,di  and  into 
a.  somewhat  e.asier  portion  of  the  river.  ,\  mile  or  two  farther  u|i  stream  ami  we  reacdied 
am itlier  narrow  bend,  and  here  the  rocks  reached  entirely  across  the  stream,  leavin;^  only  small 
openings,  through  which  tho  watur  fvrcx'(l  ityolf  with  terribly  vclucity.     Wu  stoppwl  and  made 


CIllUHK  OK  THK  HTKAMKIt  (OUVVIN,  31 

H  riM'oiiiiaiHKaiict',  miil  Hucrrfdrd  in  limliiiK  a  |iiiM>«iigi<,  throu^li  wliii'li  lli)<  Mkiii  \hm\{  wiin  IIthI 
iiitiilt'il  up:  tlii'ii,  <li'ii|)|>iiiK  It  liiiiMliivvii  III  till'  liiiiiii'li,  itll  of  (III*  piirty,  with  tliiM'Xi-i>|)tiiiii  of  ruiir 
svliii  ri'iiiiiiiii'il  ill  tilt'  laiiiicli,  i'lup|>r<!  on  to  it  anil  iM'^aii  to  liaiil  awity  an  wi'  ilaslinl  at  tlir  pain- 
Ha^i'willi  Mil  puiwuls  of  sit'ani  III!  t|ii<  ImiliT.  '!'Im>  pasna^i'  wiin  ri'aciii'il.  llu'  lannrli  plnii^itil 
lii'i-  liiiwH  (li'i'p  into  tliK  watiT,  ami  lii<>  iii'xt  iiinini'iit  wmilil  iiavi'  Iicimi  salVly  tlii'uuKli.  wlii'ii  tlio 
liiii*  lir<iki>  with  a  twan^.  ami  sIik  lic^aii  siuwly  lint  Hiircly  to  K'*  aslciii.  Sin-  Htrnck  a  nick 
witli  a  wlii'i'l  ami  it  slnppfil  U>v  a  imiimMit,  ami  in  that  innini'iit  tiir  Htniii);  ciirit'iit  swept  licr 
lii'iiailHiilf  nil  III  a  lui^^it  I'liiim!  liuwIiItT,  ami  I  tlinuKlit  nIh- nmhiIiI  Im' rt'i'tainjy  lust.  Slii' wt-iit 
<iv('i'  nil  licr  licani-cmlM,  llicrt-  was  a  ninnii'iit  nf  suHp(4iHi<,  ami  llu*  ni'xt  sIm  wmh  hvvi'|iI  nvcr  liy 
till'  water  ami  went  ilril'tiiiK  iluwii  Htream  at  lliti  rati*  of  ten  inileH  |iei-  lidiir. 

Till'  ImliaiiH  liail  alianilmieil  tlieir  Imat  in  llie  mean  lime  ami  ran  ilnwn  lieinw  iis  In  remler 
any  pusHilile  aH.siHtaiire,  anil  we  hhuii  pit  a  line  wliirii  they  threw  us  ami  lianleil  in  ali>iiKsi<l*< 
(he  Hliiiro  to  repair  ilainiiKeH.  Kurtniiately  iin  Heriniis  injury  was  sustaineil.  Inil  we  ilecided  nut 
to  i  i:<k  the  iaiini'li  aKalii.  especially  as  the  Indians  inl'iirnied  nie  tiial  with  each  day's  clear 
weather  the  river  would  ^rn  down  very  rapidly,  and  It  would  lie  ini|iossilile  to  p't  the  launch 
ihnrii  later,  even  if  wu  suecreeded  in  ^''tlinK  I"'''  "/'  ""W. 

We  were  at  this  time  one  day's  journey  rrniii  the  hijjjliest  point  reached  liy  the  Stoney 
expedition  in  |hs|.  and  after  holdiiif^  a  consultation  I  decided  to  leave  the  launch  here  in  cliarpt 
of  Mr.  'rowiisend,  who  would  use  her  as  he  tliou;;lil  liest  in  making  it  ciillectioii  of  specimens 
iif  natui'al  history,  and  push  ahead  with  the  Indians  in  the  skin  Imal.  Up  to  this  lime  tint 
ti.x|M>ilili'iii  had  lieeii  pushed  ahead  so  rapidly  thai  Mr.  Town.send  had  had  V'  little  opporlii- 
nily  fo,'  proseculiiiK  llie  work  of  iiinkiii^^a  collection,  and  at  his  Huyj^estjon  I  decided,  as  lieforo 
Htali'il,tii  leave  him  herewith  I  he  launch.  This  necessitated  I  he  detent  ion  of  Marsh  ami  l.<i'wiH 
also  with  the  launch,  as  Mr.  Towiisend  would  reipiire  their  assistance  in  handling  her. 

We  spent  the  reiiiainiler  of  I  he  day  inseleclinj;  such  articles  of  camp  outlit  and  snpplieH 
as  were  necessary  for  our  lri|i,  and  loaded  the  skin  hoat  pi'eparatory  t"  an  early  start  next 
iiiornin^. 

The  morniiiK  <>f  July  I"..'  opened  clear  and  liri^^hl,  and.  after  leaving  directions  with  Mr. 
Townsend  in  regard  to  ilmppiu^  the  launch  down  stream  in  ca.se  the  walei'  lie^an  to  shoal,  we 
hade  K' l-liye  to  the  lauiic)i  and  Htarted  on  our  way  in  the  skin  Imat. 

With  the  tii'st  si^iis  of  day  on  .Inly  I'i  we  started  froiu  the  launch  with  the  skin  lioiil, 
which  1  naiued  the  /'imicrr.  ami  .soon  a  lieiid  of  the  river  hid  the  remainder  of  the  party  from 
our  Hi^ht.  We  had,  for  provisions  to  last  twenty  days,  two  Imxes  pcinniican,  one  liox  tc-i,  and 
thirty  pounds  of  hard  liread,  and,  not  withstanding  the  fad  that  we  laliored  incessantly  from 
fourteen  III  sixteen  hours  jier  day,  there  was  never  a  lime  on  the  eiitii'e  trip  when  we  really 
siilVercd  from  liiiii^ei'.  (iamewas  aliuiidanl.  and  the  lisli  (also  plentiful  and  easily  ciu^hl) 
were  delicious.  Alonj^the  lianksof  the  river  lierries  j;rew  in  the  greatest  profusion,  and  our 
daily  hill  of  fare  was  as  varied  as  one  could  wish. 

Soon  lifter  leaving  the  launch  we entei-ed  .'i  long  reach  of  the  river,  !iliiiost  choked  with  huge 
liowlders  of  cojigloineiiite  rock,  and  the  current  liecaiiie  so  strong  that  it  reipiired  the  united 
etTorlsof  the  cut  ire  party  to  haul  the  skin  lioat  through.  The  depth  of  water  no  w  In 'le  exceeded 
six  feel,  and  the  Indians  informed  nie  that  the  river  was  falling  with  each  day's  line  wcilher. 
'I'he  valley  is  not  more  than  eight  miles  wide  here,  and  the  stream  is  rapidly  alVeclcd  liy  rains, 
which  swell  the  mounlaiu  streams  tlowiiig  into  it.  At  the  head  of  these  rapids  the  river  is  again 
divided  into  sevei'id  channel-ways,  and  1  oliserved  a  river  llowing  in  from  the  south.  The 
Indian  name  is  the  ('hok-way-chok.  having  .efereiice  to  the  rapiil  cnrreiil.  The  jimct  ion  of  this 
stream  with  the  Kowak  is  called  the  P;ili.  and  the  river  itself  has  lieen  mistakenly  called  liy 
this  name.  This  is  the  only  river  of  any  size  Mowing  into  the  Kowak  from  the  .south,  and  the 
Indians  inform  me  that  at  one  time  couiinunical  ion  was  had  with  '  iie  Ko-you-kuk  liy  mcjins  of 
u  short  poi'lage  connecting  its  headwaters  with  a  triliutary  of  the  lalterstre.ini.  Inil  latterly  it 
has  fallen  into  disu.se  and  another  iind  ciisiei-  route  pursued. 

Our  tirst  days  work  ended  at  H  p.  m.,  when,  worn  out  l)your  long  tramp.  wec,im]ii'i|  for  the 
night  on  a  level  lniidi';i  plain.  Fortunately  tli"  mosipiiloes  were  not  t  ronlilesome.  and  soon  wo 
sat  around  a  hlazing  lire,  smuking  very  comfurlalily  and  on  terms  of  perfect  equality. 


32  CRUISE  OP  THE  STEAMER  CORWIN. 

Tlio  width  of  tlu!  riven' (Inriiij;  tli(^  day  whs  from  Iwoliundrcd  totwolniiidrcdaiid  fifty  yards, 
Tiio  Hii()r(\s  Winn*  K'''i'''''dly  low,  (^\(•^•l)t  wiicii'  rid^i's  <'I(i,sho(1  the  .strcniii,  foriiiing  stfcp  rocl<y 
haiilis.     Tiic  l)"/d  of  tiic  strcaiii  is  iiioslly  fi;i'avt'i  in  tills  locality. 

After  a  sound  ni>;lit's  sici'])  on  tin'  soft  moss  of  the  tundra  we  jrot  away  at  an  early  hoiir, 
so  as  to  taki;  advantage  of  tln^  eool  air  of  tin*  morning.  Un  fine  days  tin^  tlierniometer  ranfj;es 
from  soventy-fivo  t(j  eighty  (h'>i:rees  in  tlie  shade.  By  noon  we  espied  tlie  smoke  of  an  Indian 
encainiiineut  on  an  islainl  aliead.  With  renewed  efforts  the  Indians  walked  away,  often  up 
to  tlieii'  waists  in  the  ice  cold  water,  and  in  an  liour  we  ri'aehed  tiie  islaud  an<l  found  ii  collec- 
tion of  suTnmer  liousesuiid  some  half-dozen  miserably  clad  natives,  waiting  i'or  lliecxpecled  lun 
of  salmon. 

They  expressed  no  groat  surpi'istt  liy  their  actions,  hut  wi'ut  aliout  their  work  .seemingly 
(piite  oblivious  of  our  presence.  After  we  landed,  however,  and  niaile  a  few  presents,  their 
iiiitural  curiosity  ovei'canm  all  other  scru]>les  and  all  crowded  around  nie,  anxious  for  a  good 
look  at  the  white  man.  At  this  ])hice  I  found  a  record  left  by  J>ieutenant  Stoney,  U.  K.  N.,  in 
ISSf,  giving  an  account  of  a  laki^  visited  by  him  and  his  jjarty, bearing  north  and  di.stant  about 
eleven  miles  from  the  river.  A  small  stream,  which  is  a  braiudi  of  the  inlet  to  the  lake,  called 
Nud-i'e-wok  by  tlie  natives,  flows  into  the  Kowak  opposite  the  village.  This  was  the  highest 
]»oint  I'eached  by  Stoney  in  ISS-t.  After  taking  a  copy  of  this  I'ecord.  1  replaced  it  where  1  found 
it.  accompanied  by  a  record  of  my  visit. 

The  Indians  at  this  place  informed  me  that  in  live  days  we  would  reach  the  cataracts,  where 
boat  navigation  ceases,  and  where  it  is  customary  to  cache  their  boats  and  wait  until  snow  falls 
to  proceed  farther  into  the  interior. 

In  actual  distance  this  village  is  about  three-cpiarlcrsof  tluMlistance  Ironi  the  mouth  of  tlu^ 
riser  to  its  headwaters.  };>etwet>ii  usand  Lake  Car-loog-ah-look-tah  theri^  lies  a  part  of  the  river 
which  the  liKlians  informed  me  was  impassa-blt^  with  boats. 

At  •',  o'clock,  July  14,  wo  started  from  the  Indian  village,  soon  after  reacdiing  a  part  of 
the  river  where  the  channel  was  free  fi-om  i-ocks;  but  the  shores  along  which  we  had  to  tow  the 
boat  were  fringed  with  bowlders  and  it  was  tediously  slow  w<u'k  to  get  the  frail  alfair  past  them 
without  tearing  lier  to  jjieces.  Paddling  against  the  current  was  utterly  iini»ossible  with  a  boat 
iis  large  ;.s  ours,  and  when  the  natui'e  of  the  banks  is  siudi  that  we  cannot  tow.  Ul'e  boat  is  pro- 
pelled by  ■•poling."  The  Indians  stand  well  in  the  bow  of  the  boat  and  witli^)les  eight  to  ten 
feet  long  shove  her  step  by  ste))  against  the  curriMit'.  Considerable  skill  has  to  lie  shown  in  this 
kind  of  work,  and  often  it  hajipeiis  that  a  lireaking  poh^  or  careless  ino\'enieiit  of  luii'  of  tlii'  party 
will  lie  the  menus  of  losing  all  control  of  the  boat.  At  sueli  times  all  bands  plunge  overboard 
the  moment  the  boat  drifts  in  siioal  water  ami  hold  her  head  upstream  until  a.  fresh  start  can 
he  made. 

With  tjie  continued  line  weather  of  the  la.st  few  days  the  river  suh.sided  greatly  and  became 
beautifully  cieaj-.  Kisli  can  be  sei  weiity  or  thirty  yards  distant  as  they  lie  in  the  bottom  of 
deej)  pools.  The  cun'ent  averageil  eight  knots  in  this  portion  of  the  river.  Many  islands  were 
passed  during  this  and  thi>  .-succeeding  day.  and  the  shores  of  tlu'  river  were  in  some  places  two 
miles  apart.  The  mountains  here  run  almost  parallel,  nearly  northeast  and  southwest,  and  are 
from  two  thousand  to  three  thousami  feet  high.  Among  tlu^  timber  the  bircli  was  observeil  to 
be  more  c(jnspicuoiis  anil  of  l.-irger  growth  tliau  farther  down  stream.  Many  liuiian  houses 
were  seen  in  this  vicinity,  but  no  natives,  as  they  are  either  in  the  nKUintains  hunting  deer  or 
at  the  fishing  villages.  A  delicious  trout  is  found  in  the  small  tributary  streams  which  is  not 
seen  elsewhere  on  the  river.     Following  is  a.  descri])tion: 

Hack  dusky  gi-einii.sli,  shading  to  lilac.  Sides  lilac,  rosy  spotted.  Under  parts  white. 
Dorsal  tin  an<l  tail  dusky  gray;  others  rosy.     Native  name,  Ai'-ko-luk-])uk. 

This  tish  and  the  grayling,  which  is  abuudiint  everywluRro  above  the  rapids,  take  the  hook 
readily. 

With  the  subsiding  of  the  water  from  the  gravel  hoaches  good  walking  was  aft'orded  the 
jiarty  and  the  progress  of  tlio  e.\])odition  was  in  consecpuMiee  inucli  more  rajiid.  The  tenipi'va- 
turo  of  tho  air  increased  as  we  advanced  until  the  tlierniometer  registered  as  high  as  uinety-six 


H.  Ex.  153,19  ■ 


GAME  IN  THE  ARCTIC. 


EMl'EROR  GEESE. 


CRUISE  OF  THE  STEAMEU  CORWIN. 


33 


iloifii'o.s  in  tlu!  sliiido  iiiid  st'ldom  fell  hulow  eighty-oiglit  dugroua  during  tlio  duy,  while  that  of 
the  wator  rtinged  fnun  tliivty-Hix  to  forty-two  degi'oea. 

I  nevor  saw  nu'ii  work  more  faithfully  Mian  did  these  natives.  I  left  the  entire  manage, 
meat  of  the  party  to  Taii-tah-rok  and  it  was  seldom  he  failed  to  get  less  than  fourteen  hours' 
work  out  of  them.  While  with  the  launch  I  got  into  several  bad  scrai)es  by  following  the  advice 
of  tlif  Indians,  who  never  senn\ed  to  realize  that  the  launch  could  not  !>ehan<Ued  as  easily  as  one 
of  their  own  boats;  but  it  is  really  nnirvelous  what  judgment  iind  skill  are  shown  by  them  in 
handling  the  skin  boat,  and  I  am  convinced  that  they  acc(Mni)lished  more  than  twice  as  much 
as  would  have  been  accoTuplished  by  less  experienced  men  in  this  peculiar  style  of  navigation. 

The  character  of  the  river  changes,  very  little  as  we  slowly  advance.  Ijow  green  shores, 
are  fringed  by  a  gravel  beach  which  gradually  widens  as  we  approach  a  bend  until  it  forms  a 
spit  extending  almost  across  the  stream,  then  narrows  again  until  it  disappears  (futirely.  and  we 
have  to  cross  the  river  to  get  a  place  to  walk  again.  A  diagram  will  probably  better  show  the 
formation  of  the  beaches: 

►0: 


When  it  l)econies  necessary  to  cross  the  river  the  boat  is  hauled  alongside  the  bank,  and 
the  Indians  carefully  shake  all  the  sand  from  their  feet  a.n<l  stej)  into  her.  They  gra.sj)  their 
paddles,  take  a  (|uick  look  down  stream  to  note  the  position  of  any  rocks,  and  with  a  short  cry 
of  preparation  shove  otf.  In  a  nionn^nt  th(>  strong  current  strikes  the  light  boat  an<l  bears  her 
off  like  a  leaf.  The  paddles,  descending  in  perfect  unison  and  with  savage  earnestness,  sent!  the 
water  away  in  circling  (sddiesastiu'u.  It  is  quick,  sharp  work,  and  although  the  river  was  seldom 
more  than  one  hundred  yards  wide  at  this  point,  we  were  often  carried  twice  that  distance^  down 
stream  y)efo7-e  reaching  the  opposite  bank.  When  the  water  is  suthciently  shoal,  as  frequently 
happens  during  tliis  part  of  the  journey,  the  i)addles  are  throw:;  aside  and  poling  is  resorted  to. 
In  (uther  case  the  Indians  stiiiid  well  forward  and  so  bring  the  boat  down  by  the  head,  as  in 
this  way  they  (;aii  hold  her  head  in  any  direction  with  gnsater  ease  than  if  she  wore  on  an  even 
keel. 

Toward  -t  o'clock  v/e  passed  the  junction  of  the  Rowak  with  a  river  flowing  in  from  the  north, 
called  by  the  natives  Arko-.sher-wak,  or  Beaver  River.  The  mouth  of  this  stream  was  about 
.seventy-five  yards  wide,  and  there  were  from  five  to  .seven  feet  of  water  nearly  all  tlu*  way  across. 
This  forms  tlu?  outlet  to  Lake  Meiu^-kok-o-shah  of  the  natives,  and  is  oni'  of  the  i)rincii)al  feed- 
ers of  the  Kowak.  At  this  jioint  the  coxirse  of  the  Kowak  took  us  more  towards  the  south  and 
ncai'cd  the  mountains  forming  the  watershed  between  it  and  the  Ko-you-kuk  River,  and  the 
topogi'ajjhy  of  tlu*  country  would  indicate  that  somewhere  in  this  vicinity  the  cour.ses  of  the 
two  streams  are  nearly  parallel  and  the  distance  between  them  not  over  sixty  miles. 

Game  was  found  in  the  greatest  abundance  in  this  locality.  At  nearly  every  bend  of  the 
I'iver,  and  especially  whert*  small  willow  islands  were  seen,  we  came  u])on  large  flocks  of  half- 
grown  gee.se,  whose  awkward  efforts  to  escape  were  ludicrous  in  the  extreme.  Sometimes  we 
surprised  a  flock  in  mid-sti'eam.  and  they  would  attempt  to  evade  us  by  diving.  Being  as  yet 
not  fully  fledged,  this  was  not  always  successful,  and  they  would  only  be  able  to  put  their  heads 
under  water,  nnd  in  this  position  would  fall  easy  victims  to  the  Indians. 

During  the  day  (July  U>)  we  passed  many  small  ti-ibutary  streams  flowing  into  the  Kowak, 
and  the  natives  assured  me  tliat  the  valley  was  full  of  many  small  lakes,  from  whicli  these 
streams  flowed. 

The  shores  of  the  stream  are  generally  low  in  this  region,  and  the  heavy  timber  is  on  the 
sides  of  the  mountains,  and  only  approaches  the  river  Avhere  ridges  run  in  on  the  stream  from 
the  footlulls.  We  experienced  some  difiBculty  in  finding  suitable  camping  places  on  account  of 
H.  Ex.  153 5 


84  CRUISE  OF  THK  STEAMER  CORWIN. 

the  evcr-prespnt  willow  thickets,  which  hern  constituted  almost  ontircly  tho  vegetation  ahjiiy 
the  hanks. 

On  July  K)  we  passed  the  lJnK-ee-let-ar->j;eeak  River  of  the  natives,  wliich  resenihled  very 
much  in  size  and  voluino  the  Arko-sher-wak  already  mentioned.  Like  the  hitter  river,  it  Hows 
in  from  the  north,  and  is  the  outlet  of  Lake  Nor-to-rok-toe,  which  is  the  socoad  lake  in  point 
of  size  of  the  four  lar><i'  lakes  fornnnf^  the  sources  of  the  Kowak. 

The  weather  continued  fair  and  intensely  hot.  The  mo.s([ui toes  wore  simply  terrific,  and 
our  lives  were  a  burden  to  us  altogether  until  we  emerged  from  the  low  country  and  readied  a 
portion  of  the  river  iiudosed  ])y  high  blufT  hanks.  At  (i.3()  the  IniUans  stopped  as  if  at  a  signal, 
and  Tah-tah-rok  called  luy  attention  to  a  low  rumbling  noise  ahead.  I  thought  at  fir.st  it  whs 
thunder,  but  its  steady  sound,  and  the  fact  that  thunder  is  .seldom  heard  in  these  latitudes, 
convinced  me  that  it  was  falling  water.  We  pushed  ahead,  and  my  feelings  can  scarcely  be 
imagined  when,  at  H  o'clock,  we  rounded  a  high,  rocky  bluff  and  came  suddeidy  in  sight  of  a 
seething  mass  of  white  water  bursting  its  way  through  a  gorge  composed  of  perpendicidar 
masses  of  slaty  rock  two  liundi-ed  to  three  hundred  feet  high,  surmounted  by  a  forest  of  spruce 
and  birch.  The  ciiannei  was  completely  cliokt^d  with  shari)-pointed  rocks,  past  which  the 
water  Hew  with  frightful  velocity,  breaking  itself  into  mimic  cascades  of  foam  and  spray. 

The  Indians,  as  if  sharing  in  my  ])leasure,  set  up  a  wild  chant  which  echoed  along  the 
steep  banks,  and  caused  hundreds  of  gulls  nesting  in  the  crevices  of  tlie  rocks  to  leave  their 
perches  and  witii  loud  discordant  cries  to  circle  i-ound  our  heads. 

The  head  of  boat  navigation  had  been  reached,  just  twelve  days  from  the  mouth  of  the  river. 

Selecting  a  high  dry  spot  on  the  bank  just  below  the  gorge,  we  went  into  camp,  and  soon 
my  party,  worn  out.  witli  excitement  ami  hard  woi'k.  fell  into  a  deep  sh^e]). 

The  next  day  we  spent  in  various  ways.  The  Inilians  were  mending  their  much-worn 
boots,  while  I,  accompanied  by  Tah-tah-i'ok,  made  a  reconnaissance  of  the  gorge,  with  a  view  of 
asvei  ttiiiiliig  tho  possibility  of  g^Hinjr  our  boat  through.  1  wa:'  satisfied  that  it  would  be  impos- 
sible to  walk  to  the  head  of  the  river  and  carry  my  instruments  and  necessary  articles  of  camp 
outfit,  anil  my  oidy  hope  of  reaching  Lake  Car-loog-ah-look-tah  was  to  get  the  boat  pa.st  these 
rapids.  We  examini'd  a  jtor-tage  formerly  used  liy  the  natives  to  get  past  the  cataract;  but  it 
was  so  overgrown  with  willows  as  to  make  it  impa-ssable  even  if  we  had  been  able  to  carry  a 
boat  as  large  as  ours  so  far  as  this  route  necessitated.  We  then  returned  to  the  banks  of  the 
gorge  and  walked  along  cart^fully  examining  the  rai)ids,  ^^  hich  were  about  a  mile  long.  While 
1  sat  on  the  high  bayks  watching  the  foaming  torrent  below  I  suddeidy  observed  a  tree  Hoating 
down  the  goi'gi?.  Sometimes  Ijoriie  along  in  the  force  of  the  (Uirrent,  and  again  held  almost 
stationary  in  the(>ddiesof  the  pools,  it  gradually  nearod  tne  rock-choked  entrancf^  of  the  gorge. 
I  followed  its  course  with  the  interest  born  of  a  sudden  roMilve.  TaIi-tah-rok"s  (puck  mind  was 
not  slow  to  gi'asp  the  situation,  for  when  the  tree  I'oached  the  cataract  and  lodged  between  two 
rocks  he  simjjly  smileil  and  said,  "(iood.'' 

My  nund  was  now  made  uj)  as  to  the  manner  in  which  we  must  get  the  boat  above  the 
gorge:  I  would  divide  the  pai'ty,  sending  'i'ah-tah-rok  and  two  men  above  the  rapids  to  build  a 
raft  of  small  trees,  v.hich  they  would  set  adrift  and  Hoat  down  to  us.  With  these  trees  a  tem- 
porary bridge  could  be  constructed  over  the  rocks  and  we  would  be  thus  enabled  to  haul  the 
bo-t  through.  Tah-tah-rok  understood  readily  the  ]>laii  1  proposed,  and  we  returned  to  camp, 
where  he  made  my  wishes  known  to  the  rest  of  the  ]iarty,  and  two  of  them  immediately  .set  out 
through  the  woods  toward  the  liead  of  the  gorge.  It  was  then  late  in  the  afternoon,  and  as 
nothing  further  could  be  done  in  the  way  of  advance  until  we  had  tlie  trees,  I  set  the  remainder 
of  tlic  pai'ty  at  work  arranging  for  iui  early  ^;tart  the  Vii^xt  Tiioming.  Our  tow-lino  tiad  becfnne 
so  much  worn  that  any  sudden  strain  would  he  liable  to  break  it.  and  I  cut  tlie  roping  off  the 
tent,  which  was  (juite  new,  and  from  it  made  a  line  we  could  dejjend  uj)on.  Everything  which 
was  not  absolutely  necessary  was  cadied  lu-re,  and  the  boat  when  loaded  drew  (mly  fcmr  inches. 

After  a  sound  nigld's  sleep,  we  broke  camj)  early  (m  the  morning  of  July  19,  and  with  the 
lightly  loaded  boat  crossed  the  river  and  sto])ped  at  the  entrance  \<)  the  gorge. 

Here  the  banks  were  perpendicular  mas.ses  of  slaty  rock,  in  tlie  crevices  of  which,  near  the 


II   Kx.  153, 4,)  1 


HEAD  OK  HOAT  NAVlCiA TION,  KUWAK  RIVER,  ALASKA. 


CRUISK  OF  THE  STKAMFR  CORWIN.  85 

fi»ji,  11  (Ii'ii8(>  Rrowtli  of  liircli  uiul  willow  liiul  HpniiiK  "!>•  'I'lu-  ImmI  of  tliti  Htroain  wjw  conipli'tcly 
c'hokctl  with  roci<H  of  uliitt'  foriniitioti.  brolct'ii  into  ii  tlioiiMumi  irn'KiiI»iitit'H  by  frost  mid  ico. 
Ho  Hliiirp  mid  jiiK^cd  were  tlirsc  projections  that  t)io  slij^litt'st  fontiict  witli  tlm  .skin  hoiit  woidd 
result  in  u  liolc  hein^  punclwd  IhrouKh  licr  sides. 

We  liiid  no;  loiif^  to  wait  for  Tuli-liih-roli,  for  hiirdiy  iuul  we  Houured  the  bout  in  a  i)rt)- 
ti'cted  pool  mid  clinihed  np  on  a  rock  when  we  heard  him  and  his  two  coinijaiiions  shouting  in 
the  jifor^e  at  no  j^reat  distance  frotn  tis.  and  almost  immediately  they  eaine  in  si^ht  anmiid  a 
liend,  scrmnhlinjjf  alon^;  the  face  of  the  rocky  shores  and  holding;  on  to  a  rnft  of  small  Iokm. 
When  they  reached  the  head  of  the  cataract  and  fnrthor  pro^resH  aloiiK  the  liank.s  was  impos- 
sible, the  raft  was  hauled  ashorw  and  the  lo^s  floated  down  to  us  one  by  one.  Wo  siu'cceded  in 
catching?  a  majority  of  them  and  made  a  kind  of  ways  uiion  the  rocks,  over  which  we  hanlod 
the  hdiit.  In  order  to  do  this  we  wore  olili^ed  to  unload  tho  boat  and  transfer  the  c(;ntents  to 
a  safe  place  up  stream  by  means  of  a  temponiry  brid^o  from  rock  to  rock  in  tlie  rapids.  In 
this  maiinei'.  step  Ity  step,  we  woi'ked  our  way  slowly  upwards,  and  had  neai'ly  reached  a  place 
where  we  could  load  the  boat  and  proceed  as  usual,  when  an  accident  occui'r<'d  which  nearly 
proved  fatal. 

I  had  retiirne<l  to  the  l)oat  after  a  trij)  uj)  to  the  .spot  whore  we  had  deposited  our  outfit,  and 
was  waiting  for  tlr.*  rest  of  the  jiarty  to  come  iij),  when  1  heard  aliove  the  ro;ir  of  the  cataract 
a  sudden  cry  of  distress,  and  a  moment  afterward  saw  Tah-tah-rok  stru(,'KlinK  frantically  in 
the  water.  As  he  swept  i)ast  the  rock  upon  which  1  was  standinj;;  one  of  the  l>arty  wlio  had 
run  down  and  joined  me  assistcul  mo  in  lifting  one  of  tlie  trees  w(^  were  nsin^i^,  and  toj^ethor  we 
threw  it  toward  Tah-tah-rok,  who  fortunately  caught  it,  and  a  moment  afterward  it  swung 
around  ami  jamim^d  in  between  two  rocks  a  little  farther  down  stream.  We  hastened  to  his 
assistance,  and  the  whole  party,  coming  up  now,  hauled  him  out  of  his  dangerous  i>ositi(>u. 
Although  but  a  few  moments  in  the  water,  the  poor  fellow's  hands  and  arms  were  cut  in  a 
dozen  places  by  the  sharj)  rocks,  and  ho  was  so  much  exhausted  by  his  struggles  that  i  decided 
to  stop  and  make  a  cup  of  hot  tea  before  proceeding  any  farther.  This  wo  did,  and  after  band- 
aging uj)  his  hands  the  boat  was  hauled  up  and  loaded  again,  and  we  itroceeded  on  our  way. 

The  gorge  was  about  a  mile  long,  with  banks  compos  •(!  of  almost  iierpendicular  masses  of 
conglomerate  rocks,  varied  now  and  then  by  steep  sloping  bluffs,  mo.ss-covered  and  overgrown 
with  willow  and  birch  trees.  Tho  river  was  hert>  not  over  thirty  yards  wide,  and,  as  might  be 
expected,  the  current  tore  through  with  tremendous  force.  Along  the  ba.se  of  the  cliffs 
detached  and  liroken  bowlders  afforded  a  precarious  footing,  ovei'  whi(di  we  scrambled  as  best 
wo  might.  It  was  often  necessary  to  hold  the  boat  aloiigsi<le  one  rock  and  allow  the  party 
to  go  as  far  uj)  as  the  l<<ngth  of  the  tow-line  would  allow  and  then  sheer  her  out  info  the  mid- 
dle of  the  stream,  in  order  to  round  some  particularly  bad  point,  the  jiarty  iu  the  mean  time 
having  .secured  a  firm  foothold  on  another  rock  farther  uj)  stream.  Fortunately  our  tow-line 
proved  ade(iuato  to  endure  tho  strain,  and  we  at  last  emerged  from  the  gorge  and  gazed  once 
more  on  low  shores,  clothed  with  tlio  usual  willow  thickets,  with  occasional  clumps  of  spruce 
and  birch  trees. 

All  day  we  advanced  rapidly,  having  a  good  beach  to  walk  \ipon  and  finding  conij)aratively 
little  cnri'ent  to  contend  with.  The  temperature  of  the  water  was  observal)ly  lower,  and  it 
seeme(l  much  cohh^r  on  ac<-ount  of  ibt^  heat  of  th(>  sun.  With  the  thermometer  standing 
steadily  at  ninety-four  degr(>es  in  the  shade,  and  with  no  time  to  rest,  one  could  ring  the 
changes  on  a  ))o])ular  song  iind  sing  "an  f.r/)/o»'c/'".s  lot  is  not  a  hapiiy  one"  with  great  feeling. 

,)ust  before  camping  for  theuightwo  passed  through  a  reach  of  fli(>  riv<'r  almost  com- 
pletely filled  with  rocks,  and  the  boat  suffered  niiudi  by  cfnning  in  contact  with  them.  The 
banks  wore  composed  of  a  loose  red  sandstone,  which  crumbled  at  the  slightest  touch,  and  the 
water  w^as  tinged  a  deej)  brownish  I'od  by  the  constant  dropi)ing  of  portions  of  the  bank  into 
the  river.  Distinct  water  marks  could  be  seen  high  up  the  banks,  showing  that  at  times  tho 
river  mu.st  rise  very  high. 

From  the  first  gorge  the  course  of  tho  river  is  very  nearly  north.    Tho  bends  are  less 


30  CKUISK  OK  THK  HTKAMKlt  (H)RWIN. 

uliriipt,  ami  at  H  p.  iii.,  when  we  ciimitcil,  lli(<  IniliuiiM  |n>iiiltMl  mil  In  iiif  llic  [KMiks  of  llu>  iiiniint- 
uiiiM  1111)1111(1  Ijivki'  C'ui-looK-ali-l'H'k-tali,  which  lies  iil  Hit-  hfiul  of  tin-  rivdr. 

At  our  tHMin  hiilt  ii  liKlitt'fl  iniitch  wuh  ciiroloHMly  tlirowu  down  on  tliu  dry  inowi  of  tho  tun- 
din,  uml  shnrlly  iiI'liT  IfuviiiK  we  saw  il  had  scl  liro  Id  the  iidlaiiimalilo  hIiiIT.  Whfii  W(«nl<>pp<'d 
to  cainp  al  iiIkIiI  I  clinilii'd  a  iii'igliiiuriiiK  liill  and  saw  Ihal  lh<>  llii'  hail  sinfad  until  il  t'livrrt'd 
acroH  and  acrt'H  (»l'  K>'<>iiiid.  Nuwlion*  in  th«  world  prohahly  will  loivst,  lircM  »pn«ad  ho  (piickly 
a5  Ih-rc,  and  I  fell  considcrulilc  nnxicly  to  k'low  where  tins  conlljiKiatiini  would  end.  Koilii- 
nately.  however.  thei-e  wa^  no  wind  lo  can'y  the  sparks,  and  hy  lo  p.  in.  the  lire  had  liurned 
itrtolf  to  water  in  all  direct  ions,  and  only  a  dense  cloud  of  smoke  remained  to  tell  the  story  of 
HO  much  havoc  nwnle  by  a  little  careless  act.  When  the  fact  that  exjilorers  ami  others  must 
depend  almost  wholly  on  the  cnuntry  for  food  is  taken  into  consideration,  the  imptirtance  of 
lieiiiK  careful  not  to  sel  lire  to  one's  larder  will  he  apparent,  Hiid  over  after  that  1  never  left  a 
camp  until  every  s]taik  of  tire  had  heen  e.\tinji;uishe(l. 

Next  morning  when  we  >(ot  under  way  the  wind  was  fiom  the  north,  and  a  i)«>ltiiig  rain- 
storm Ileal  in  our  faces.  Hy  II  o'clock  we  passed  from  the  low  country,  and  were  once  more 
shut  in  liy  hif^li  abrupt  banks.  Here  and  there  ru>;n;ed  inas.ses  of  slaty  rock,  lifty  to  seventy- 
tive  feet  hi^li.  broken  into  iiian.v  curious  forms  by  frost,  projected  into  the  river.  The  river 
at  this  point  was  not  over  twenty-live  yards  wide,  lad  the  current  was  not  nearly  so  strong 
as  in  the  Inwci' koI'K'''  ''i''  blull's  were  bare  of  vegetation,  except  in  s[iots  where  a  sheltiered 
leiljife  ^ave  a  chance  for  the  bright -colored  moss  to  f^row.  Thousands  of  mud  nests  made  by 
the  swalh)W  were  obsei'veil  as  we  walked  alonjjf  the  rocky  banks,  and  .sometiiin^s  as  we  rounded 
a  projecting  ledj.;e  a  perfect  storm  of  sharp  (pierulous  cries  would  jj;reet  us  as  thest'  fjraccful 
little  birds  (lew  excitedly  in  and  out  of  their  curious  little  homes. 

This  ;;or^'e  was  about  two  and  one-half  miles  lonj;.  and  its  >;(<neral  direction  was  east  and 
west  through  a  rid.i;e  running;  back  to  the  mountains  to  the  north  of  the  river.  Toward  noon 
We  passed  out  from  bet  ween  the  rocky  shores  of  the  yorj^e  into  a  low  country,  bounded  on  all 
sifles  by  mountains.  At  :!  o'clock  we  passed  through  wliat  was  once  a  lake,  but  the  stroii)^ 
current  of  the  river  had  broken  through  the  banks,  and  now  it  is  simply  an  enlaixement  of  tho 
river,  with  a  slioa!  in  the  ceider,  which  will  doubtlo88  become  an  islan<l  in  lime,  and  the  identity 
of  the  lake  will  be  lost. 

Our  proj^re.ss  was  fntin  this  point  oxciMMliiiKly  slow.  The  water  shoaled  so  ra|iidly  and 
thei-((  wi-re  so  many  j^ravel  bi^ds  in  the  river  that  we  were  compelled  to  wade  in  the  water  and 
partly  pusii  and  partly  pull  our  boat  most  of  the  time.  The  I'iiniccr  had  become  by  this  time 
so  woi'u  by  constant  hard  usa;i;e  t  hat  I  he  utmost  care  had  to  be  taken  not  to  let  her  strike  a 
rock  or  draj;  heavily  over  the  shoal  jihuHis. 

On  July  "vM  the  day  became  clear  and  bri>;ht,  and  after  f^ettinjj:  observations  for  lonj^itude 
■•Hid  variations  of  the  compass,  we  broke  camp  and  bi'i^jin  our  day's  work.  Soon  the  river 
bi^v-iau  to  shoMrl  very  rapidly,  there  bein^  in  some  places  not  more  than  a  foot  of  water  any- 
wlau'e.  The  width  of  the  stream  was  from  one  liundred  to  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  yards, 
and  the  shores  low,  bjicked  on  both  sides  by  mountains.  The  northern  ran^e  still  preserve<l 
its  noi'theast  (lii'ection.  and  at  a  point  not  far  ahead  stM'ined  to  terminate  in  a  collection  of 
ru^^ifcd  peaks. 

Nearer  the  river  banks  on  our  left  there  were  several  remarkable  looking;;  mountains, 
densely  wooded  fi'om  base  to  summit.  Tlie.se  latter  were  not  over  lifteen  hundred  feet  liiKh, 
but  bein^'  entirely  coven^d  with  timber,  form  a  distinf,'uisliing  feature  of  the  landscape  in  this 
locality. 

Duriuijf  the  afternoon  we  reached  tho  junction  of  tho  Kowak  with  a  stream  flowing  from 
the  noi'tli.  and  tiie  Indians  informed  me  that  this  Wiis  the  outl(>t  of  Lake  ("ar-looi^-ah-look-tah. 
The  mouth  of  the  stream  was  sivty  yards  wide  and  contained  from  four  to  six  foot  of  water, 
being  sonnnvhat  wider  aiut  niiich  deeper  than  the  main  stream  at  this  point.  We  entered  this 
tributary  and  pushed  ahead  until  we  readied  a  jioint  where  the  river  is  obstructed  hy  rai)ids, 
and  I  stopjiod  to  rei'onnoiter.  Opposite  to  us,  on  the  right  of  the  stream  (ascending),  tho  banks 
were  composed  of  high  conical  sand  bluffs,  along  the  sides  of  which  and  in  the  intervoning  liol- 


n 


S 

m 

M 

a 

2 


ll.hx.  I5J,49 


ugged  MIT       •'^",;     JtsjC 


..<rJ^';S«.. 


€■'4        -fi  . 


y 


./f 


/.#> 


,*  "^ 


Very      Mountainous      /^  0:]^ 


) 


or 


:«" 


^     Astronomlritl  St'i/iiiii 

l.unri.  153"-  'JO'  Wrst\     Apimximiili: 
iiil.  C7°-  W'  V. 


VnlloyNLooKiiie 

\    \ 
\S\t. 

\  \ 


I  ml  1(1  II 
Wiiilrr  Trillin 
iiruunU  thii  lu'iul 
iif  llli-  Ritcr. 


.  i^tmK*ilVAf^t  0(1-  I  ': 


CRDISB  OF  THE  HTKAMEli  C;()liWIN.  37 

lows  was  u  (Umiso  j^rowMi  of  liiirh,  spnict\  and  willo\v,  t\w  latter  oxtcMuliiif?  to  tlio  wutora  odgo 
ami  fonni'i^'  an  almost  iiupciictrahlf  tlii(  kol.  We  climhcd  this  \nu\k  and  reacUod  a  high  roll- 
iii>(  tundra  |Uain  st  ret  chintz  away  to  the  northwai.i  to  the  foot  of  a  iiij^ifi'd  ranj^f  of  niountiiins 
which  (^oniph.'tt'ly  hounded  the  horizon  in  that  direi^tion.  On  tiie  left  the  course  of  the  stream 
w'c  had  just  left  (!ou!d  he  traced  hy  a  holt  of  (hirk  ix^-vim  tind)er,  contrasting'  stroiif,^!'  witli  the 
li^ht  lirown  of  the  tundra  moss,  and  ended  at  the  foot  o''  the  mouidains.  aliont  six  miles  distant. 
On  the  rif;ht  the  other  liranch  of  the  Kowak  ct)uld  l>e  -seen  winding  off  towifd  the  mountains 
in  tho  southeast,  and  then  turning  to  the  north  ajj^ain  it  was  lost  to  sij^lit  hehind  the  rolling' 
hills  of  tlie  plain  ahead. 

The  Indians  informtul  me  that  the  lak(^  coidd  he  seen  fiom  a  slif^ht  elevation  of  the  jdain  a 
short  distance  ahead,  and  wo  struck  out  across  the  tundra  at  once,  and  in  a  short  time  cliinhed 
up  tilt*  sides  of  the  hill  and  looked  away  toward  the  north.  Foui"  or  fiv(«  miles  away,  and  .Mlniost 
completely  surroundiHl  hy  motinlains  from  twenty-tive  hundred  to  three  thousand  feet  liif,di, 
the  blue  sparkling  waters  of  the  long-.sought  lake  bur.st  upon  my  view.  The  sensations  of 
))leasiire  and  trimn])h  which  took  jiosscssion  of  me  as  I  gazed  upon  its  waters,  now  for  the  lirst 
time  seen  hy  a  white  man,  ani])ly  I'epaid  me  for  tiie  long,  tedious  journey.  As  the  last  rav;;  of 
the  setting  sun  gi hied  the  rugged  peaks  and  the  shadows  of  ai>proa(diing  night  crept  silently 
upward,  we  turneil  back  toward  our  boat,  and  the  Indians  set  up  n  wild  cliantiHg  "llung-lii- 
hung-ay"  of  joy. 

We  cani])t*d  on  a  level  place  at  tlit(  foot  of  the  ra])ids  and  'aatiled  the  boat  out  to  get 
thoroughly  dry  while  we  remained  in  the  vicinity  of  tlie  lake. 

The  distance  traversed  from  the  mouth  of  the  river  to  this  point  was  roughly  ;  .-ilimated  at 
tive  hundred  and  twenty-tive  miles. 

Early  next  morning  we  left  .air  camp  and.  taking  with  us  our  blankets  and  my  instru- 
ments, we  walktvl  along  the  banks  of  the  river  toward  the  lake.  Willi  a  good  boat  it  would  be 
easy  to  get  her  througli  the  I'apid.-.,  but  ours  was  in  such  a  dilapidatecl  condition  thiil  [  did  not 
think  it  advisalile  to  risk  the  chance  of  losing  her  by  di'agging  her  o\er  any  more  rocks  t'lan 
were  absolutely  necessary. 

We  reached  Laki*  Car-loog-ah-look-tah  about  two  and  a  half  hours  iifter  Icavin';-  camii. 
The  walking  was  for  the  most  ]>art  good,  being  over  the  dry  moss  of  the  rolling  pliiiii.  In  tin.' 
ravines  we  struck  small  thickets  of  willow,  liut  by  making  circuits  we  were  enabled  b)  avoid 
them.  When  we  i-eaclied  tlie  lake  we  made  a  temporary  cani|)  on  the  beach  at  the  fuol  of  the 
mountain  not  far  from  the  outlet,  and  I  began  at  once  the  \\ork  of  taking  ob.'^er\ations,  jilioto- 
graphing,  sketching,  &c. 

Indian  reports  had  led  me  to  believe  that  Lfike  Car-loog-ah-look-tah  was  much  larger  than 
it  really  is.  It  is  ])robably  no  more  than  eight  miles  long  by  three  miles  wid(>.  (hving  to  itiJ 
piM'uliar  shape  and  the  limited  means  at  my  command,  very  exact  measurements  were  not 
obtained. 

A  diagram  of  the  lake  and  immediate  vicinity  may  l)e  of  service  in  understanding  the  fol 
lowing  brief  description: 

Along  the  southern  side,  extending  from  the  spot  marked  ^  on  the  diagram,  extending  to 
the  eastward  around  the  north  shore,  there  was  found  a  narrow  strip  of  beach,  composed  of 
white  sand  and  variously  colored  pebbles.  T  attem])ted  to  walk  around  towai'd  the  west  end  of 
the  lake,  but  found  it  impossible  on  account  of  the  dense  growth  of  willows  whicii  extended  to 
the  water's  edge  in  tliis  direction.  With  Tah-tah-rok  and  one  other. Intlian  I  ascendeil  the 
mountains  which  liordered  the  southern  sitle,  and  from  this  point  obtained  a  magnificent  view 
of  the  entire  lake  and  country  in  every  direction. 

All  the  northern  conifene  spread  the  deep  green  of  their  branches  on  the  mountain  slopes, 
and  the  larch,  the  birch,  and  willow  were  massed  in  clusters  of  deep  foliage,  through  which  the 
waters  of  the  lake  sparkled  like  a  jewel. 

The  country  to  the  northeast,  north,  and  west  was  nothing  but  a  series  of  short,  detached, 
and  nigged  mountain  ranges  and  isolated  peaks,  some  of  which  were  still  snow-covered.  On 
the  south,  west,  aud  north  sides  of  the  lake  tlie  mountains  were  at  tlie  water's  edge.    In  some 


38  CRUISE  OP  THE  STEAMER  CORWIN. 

places,  especially  on  th(»  south  side,  tlic  siih-s  of  tlic  iiiouutuins  iwljuccnt  to  the  liiko  liad  hroken 
(l(jwn,  leaving  hare  jHTpciidicular  cliil's  of  dark  shity  ruck  oiio  tliou.saiid  feet  high,  wliilc  on 
the  other  side  tlie  tlu<'k  moss  grew  almost  to  tlio  summits.  At  a  liuight  of  eighteou  luuuht'd  to 
two  thousand  feet  tliu  ravines  were  morasses,  through  which  we  had  to  wade,  up  to  our  waists 
in  water  and  tiiick  gi'.iss.  to  reacli  tiie  top.  At  the  east  end  of  tlie  lake  the  country  was  h)W. 
rolling  tundra  hind,  tiirougii  whicli  tiie  river  (lowed  to  the  soutiiwest. 

Five  islands  were  crowded  togoth<n  in  the  west  end  of  the  lake,  and  were  covert'd  witli  si)nu'e 
and  willow  trees. 

Our  point  of  observation  was  about  half  way  <l()wn  th(>  lake  on  the  south  side.  Here  the 
dirt's  were  almost  pei'pendicuiar  masses  (»f  granite,  broken  into  numy  peculiar  forms  by  frost. 
Ul)on  one  of  tiiese  cliil's  I  carved  my  name  an<l  the  date  of  the  arrival  of  the  party  at  this  jjoiut. 

Opposite,  a  sand-s])it  pro.jected  into  the  lake  from  tiu^  north  shore.  With  this  single  excej)- 
tion,  the  beach  on  that  side  is  an  unbroken  line  of  wliite  sand,  extending  from  the  head  to  the 
foot  of  the  lake.  On  the  soutii  side  two  projecting  points  divide  the  sheet  of  water  into  three 
almost  ecpuil  portions. 

From  our  high  position  we  could  see  that  the  lake  contaii>ed  no  shoal  lih-ices,  except  at  the 
mouth  of  the  outlet.  Tlie  depth  of  watv'r  must  be  very  great,  as  we  could  not  get  bottom  sound- 
ing with  a  forty-fathom  line. 

When  hunting  around  tliis  lake  during  the  winter  the  Indians  ( loss  to  the  north  shore  at 
the  point  where  the  long  .sand-spit  projects  into  the  water.  A  short  walk  along  the  beach  to 
the  westward  brings  them  to  a  place  where  the  ascent  of  the  mountains  can  be  made,  and  they 
reach  the  ridge  along  which  they  travel  in  oriler  to  get  around  Hie  head  of  the  river.  In  this 
vicinity  the  deer  are  said  to  congregate  in  great  numbers,  and  the  dry  i'iver-l)ed,  tilled 'With 
snow,  att'ords  a  natural  and  easy  means  of  capturing  them.  The  exact  sjuit  where  all  signs  of 
the  river  end  was  pointed  out  to  me  l)y  the  Indian,  and  bore  northwest  distant  about  tifteen  miles. 
Between  us  and  this  place,  however,  lay  the  lake,  and  beyond  it  the  mountains,  which  would  be 
utterly  impassable  situated  as  we  were. 

The  Indian  name  Car-loog-ah-look-tah  signifies  Big  Fish  Lake,  and  has  reference  to  the 
immense  tish  which,  according  to  Indian  tradition,  were  once  found  in  this  lake.  Tales  are  told 
of  canoes  and  venturesome  hunters  being  bolted  by  these  monsters,  and  one  of  my  party 
baited  a  hook,  made  of  the  antlers  of  a  reindeer,  with  a  goose,  and  attaching  our  tow-line 
lie  gravely  threw  it  far  out  into  the  deej)  water,  and  making  the  shore  end  of  this  novel 
fishing-line  fast  to  a  stout  tree  he  sat  down  and  waited  for  some  unwary  tish  to  bite.  Whether 
the  appetites  of  the  monsters  had  been  dulled  by  a  previous  feast  of  an  entire  deer  (or  maybe 
a  chance  hunter),  or  whether,  as  I  sus])ect.  the  size  of  the  fish  has  been  somewhat  exaggerated 
by  mendacious  historians,  is  a  question  which  future  iu(|uiry  must  settle,  for,  after  renuiining 
in  the  water  all  day  and  night,  the  tempting  bait  was  hauled  out  and  found  not  t(j  have  been 
molested.  Fishing  i)rosccuted  on  a  small  scale,  however,  was  eminently  successful,  and  were 
not  this  report  inteniled  as  a  plain  statement  of  facts  coming  under  my  ol)servation,  I  would 
hardly  dare  state*  what  the  size  of  some  of  the  trout  we  cai)tured  wns  found  to  be,  for  fear  of 
being  suspected  of  exaggeration.  By  actual  measurement,  however,  I  found  trout  here  from 
three  to  three  and  a  half  feet  in  length,  and  I  saw  in  the  clear  water  sj)ecimens  much  larger  than 
the  ones  we  were  enabled  to  procure.  Having  no  other  means  at  hand,  we  captured  ti;e  fish  by 
firing  a  rifle  shot  ilirectly  under  them,  and  so  were  enabled  to  procure  only  those  v.hieh 
approached  very  close  to  the  shore.  The  common  salmon,  trout,  and  other  varieties  seen  in  the 
river  were  observed  here  also;  but  the  large  trout,  the  natives  inform  me,  never  leave  the  lake. 

July  2'.i  opened  clear  and  bright,  am!  I  siient  the  entire  day  in  getting  a  set  of  observations 
for  determining  the  longitude,  latitudes,  and  variations  ot  the  comjiass  at  this  point.  Ecjual 
altitude  sights  were  also  taken  as  a  check  on  the  chi-onometers. 

Aprojjos  of  the  chrononu'ter.  it  may  be  well  to  suggest  the  tlesirability  of  using  a  good 
pocket-chronometer  en  e.Kpeditions  of  tliis  character,  instead  of  a  regular  .shi])'s  chronometer. 
In  a  country  where  walking  is  attended  with  such  difiiculties.  th(>  chronometer  formed  the  most 
serious  obstacle  to  rapid  movements.     Indeed,  struggling  through  willow-thickets,  wading 


CRUISE  OF  THE  STEAMER  CORWIN.  39 

morasses,  and  clamberiiij?  along  tlie  crinnliling  precipitous  mountain  ridges,  and  at  the  same 
time  liolding  a  sliip'a  chronometer  with  suflicient  care  to  insure  its  accuracy,  wouhl  be  simply 
impossible. 

Having  completed  the  reconnaissance  of  the  lake,  we  returned  to  our  boat,  and  next  morn- 
ing set  out  for  tlu'  smaller  branch  of  the  liver  iiy  means  of  a  shallow  stream  which  leads  from 
the  lake  outlet  almost  across  the  low  swampy  land  which  lies  between  this  river  and  the  Kowak. 
We  made  a  short  portage  and  reached  the  Kowak,  up  which  we  began  to  shove  the  Ijoat.  The 
river  here  was  not  over  fifty  yards  wide  and  scarcely  more  than  one  foot  deej)  a;iywhere.  All 
day  w<*  pushed  the  boat  up  the  shoal  stream  past  the  moutli  of  a  small  stream  calleil  the  Kit- 
chah-ee-yak,  and  did  not  rest  until  the  lightened  l)oat.  drawing  live  inches,  woulil  no  longer  Hoat. 
The  river  was  now  nothing  but  a  shallow  brawling  l)ro(jk.  tumlding  down  lioni  l)('tween 
the  rugged  mountains  lying  on  the  north  side  of  the  lake.  From  this  ])oint  we  (ould  see  the 
mountains  running  in  an  unbroken  line  from  the  vicinity  of  the  head  of  Laki'  Car-loog-ali- 
look-tah  in  an  ea.sterly  direction,  boumling  the  iiorizon,  and  showing  no  break  tiirough  which 
a  river  could  possibly  flow.  The  Indians  pointed  out  to  me  the  ridge  along  which  they  travel 
during  the  winter  when  u|)proaching  the  lake  from  the  south.  The  sides  of  the  mi)Ui\tains  are 
almost  perpendicular  masses  of  gray  rugged  rocks.  Toward  the  southeast  they  di|)  lowei'  and 
finally  run  off  into  rolling  foothills.     It  is  from  there  the  natives  approach  the  ridge. 

The  Kit-chah-ee-yak  River,  which  Hows  into  the  Kowak  near  the  foot  of  Lake  Car-loog-ah- 
look-tali.  drains  a  valley  in  the  southeast  which  lies  at  right  angles  to  tlie  Kowak  Valley,  and 
is  the  most  noticeable,  in  fact  the  only,  break  in  the  mountain-bounded  horizon.  The  natives 
informed  me  that  by  crossing  the  ridgt^  which  forms  the  northern  boundary  of  the  Kit-chah-ee- 
yak  one  day's  journey  in  winter  brings  them  to  the  Ah-lash-ok  River,  which  is  a  tribntai'y  of 
the  Koy(mkuk.  This  is  the  route  taken  by  the  Kowak  Indians  when  they  wish  to  meet  Uiose 
o"  the  Koyoukuk  in  order  to  ti-ade. 

After  spending  the  day  in  looking  ai'ound  in  the  vicinity,  I  prepared  to  go  into  camp, 
intending  to  make  an  early  start  down  stream  the  next  day.  The  wind  was  from  the  south 
and  the  clouds  were  beginning  to  gather  threateningly  along  the  tops  of  the  mountains.  The 
Indians  advised  me  to  get  back  as  quickly  as  possible,  as  a  very  short  rain  would  be  sufficient  to 
swell  the  river  so  much  as  to  make  the  gorge  impassable.  Accordingly  we  started  at  once,  and 
after  getting  the  boat  down  as  far  as  the  junction  of  the  Kowak  with  the  Kit-chah-ee-yak,  we 
got  in  her  and  the  descent  of  the  river  began  in  earnest.  By  nightfall  we  had  shot  the  rapids 
below  the  lake  successfidly.  but  not  without  injury.  Half  way  through  the  canon  the  boat 
"  took  a  sheer"  and  started  off  across  stream,  utterly  beyond  control.  She  crashetl  into  a  Hat 
rock  ill  the  bank,  breaking  her  rail  and  tearing  a  hole  in  her  side  a  foot  long.  We  were  com- 
pelled to  jump  overboard  and  lift  her  up  on  the  bank  and  repair  damages. 

This  accident  caused  me  to  think  more  seriously  of  the  dangerous  places  through  which  we 
would  be  comj)elled  to  take  the  boat  before  reaching  the  launch,  and  as  she  might  yet  be  our 
only  means  of  reaching  the  coast  (in  the  event  of  the  loss  of  the  launch),  1  resolved  to  sto])  and 
arrange  s(jme  means  of  protecting  her  rotting  sides  and  bottom  from  the  rocks  and  gravel  beds 
whi(di  we  found  it  impossible  to  avoid  running  over.  Fortunately  we  had  with  us  an  ax  and 
a  small  l)race-aiid-bit.  and  with  these  and  a  few  nails  the  lioat  was  made  proof  again.st  ordinary 
encounters  with  rocks  or  the  bottom,  as  follows: 

A  false  keel  was  made  of  a  straight  spruce  tree,  one  of  the  roots  being  left  to  form  the 
stem.  This  was  easily  fitted,  as  the  boat's  keel  was  originally  constructed  in  the  same  manner. 
Holes  six  inches  apart  were  bored  transversely  through  the  false  keel,  and  then  it  was  securely 
fastened  on  the  bottom  of  the  boat.  Willow  wands  were  then  fitied  into  the  holes  in  the  keel 
piece  and  brought  up  around  the  outside,  and  the  ends  .secured  to  the  rail.  Smaller  branches 
of  willow  were  then  woven  with  the  others,  basket  fashion,  forming  a  complete  covering  for 
the  boat's  bottom  and  sides  below  the  water-line.  Although  this  made  the  boat  much  heavier 
and  harder  to  handle,  it  effectually  protected  her  while  shooting  the  rapids. 

July  25  was  ushered  in  by  a  terrific  rain-storm,  and  we  found  ourselves  lialf  way  between 
the  two  rocky  gorges.     If  we  were  to  get  through  the  lower  one  no  time  must  be  lost;  so,  in 


40  CRUISE  OF  THE  STEAMER  COKVVIN. 

the  face  of  the  Htorin  we  set  out  early  in  tlie  morniiiK.  Between  tliese  gorges,  as  has  been 
already  stated,  the  river  widens  and  the  current  decreases,  so  that  with  a  gale  of  wind  ahead  wo 
found  it  almost  as  hard  work  to  doiicend  as  to  ascend  the  stream,  ilowever.  wo  soon  got  ))eyond 
this  low  stretch  of  counti-y  and  by  2  o'clock  reached  the  upper  end  of  the  lower  canon.  Th« 
river  now  was  risinj{  rapidly,  and  I  observed  with  apprehension  that  nniny  of  the  rocky  points 
which  had  afforded  us  a  footlujld  in  coming  uj)  were  now  ovcsrHowed  by  the  muddy  torri-nt. 
Wo  stopped  at  the  first  convenient  lodge  and  all  of  the  l)arty,  with  the  exception  of  Tah-tah- 
rok  and  myself,  got  out  of  the  boat.  The  tow-line  was  then  secured  to  the  stern  of  the  boat 
and  tlie  Indians  on  slioro  veered  away  or  hold  on,  as  directed  by  Tah-tah-rok.  in  this  way  we 
slowly  workrd  our  way  thrcnigh  the  gorge  until  within  two  hundred  yards  of  clear  water. 
This  is  tiio  W(jrst  part  ot  the  river  and  it  really  seemed  as  if  we  would  be  compelled  at  the  last 
moment  to  abandon  the  boat.  She  was  unloaded  and  all  the  instruments  placed  in  a  safe  sjwt 
near  by.  We  then  all  clapped  on  to  the  tow-line  and  let  her  go,  carefully  guiding  her  past 
half-snbmergnl  rocks  and  through  narrow  pa.ssages  where  the  watta-  was  deeitest,  until  at  last 
she  rested  safoly  in  a  (piiet  pool  at  the  foot  of  the  cascade.  The  rain  now  came  down  in  streams, 
and  amid  the  discordant  cries  of  hundreds  of  gulls,  the  roar  of  the  rapidly  rising  river,  and 
the  hotvliiig  of  the  wind  through  the  gorge,  we  hurried  back  over  the  rocks  (i)arts  of  our  bridge 
not  yet  having  swept  away),  and  brought  the  instruments  down  to  the  boat,  and  at  5  o'chjck, 
having  safely  accomplislied  what  had  never  been  done  before,  we  carajjed  at  our  old  place, 
finding  our  cnche  undisturbed. 

A  large  fire  vas  built,  autl  in  spite  of  the  fact  tltat  the  sto'-m  wjis  now  at  its  height,  we 
were  so  completely  sheltered  by  the  thick  spruce  trees  that  we  were  soon  dry  iigain.  and  having 
eaten  a  hearty  nienl  wo  all  lay  down  on  the  soft  mo.-'s,  and  rolling  ny  in  our  rubber  blankets, 
slept  as  soundly  as  if  surrounded  by  every  convenience  of  (uvilizatiou. 

The  storm  lasted  till  midnight,  when  it  cea.sed  as  suddenly  as  it  had  licgun,  and  when 
morning  broke  the  air  was  warm  and  pleasant  and  the  sun  rose  clear  and  bright  in  a  sky  that 
was  free  from  clouds.  I  spent  the  day  in  obtaining  a  set  of  obsei'vations  for  determining  the 
latitude,  longitude,  and  variation  of  the  compass,  and  the  Indians,  under  the  dii'cction  of  'I'ah- 
tah-rok,  remove<l  the  willow  '•chafing  gear"  we  had  put  on  the  boat,  jis  it  would  not  be  neces- 
sary to  keep  it  on  any  longer. 

At  7  o'clock  of  July  27  we  broke  camp  and  started  on  our  Avay  <lown  stream.  Soon  we 
entered  the  island  system  of  the  river,  and,  cluxjsing  passages  n(»t  explored  in  coming  up,  we 
shot  past  hundreds  of  small  thickly-wooded  islets  at  the  rate  of  ten  miles  per  hour.  Once  in 
attempting  to  pass  between  two  small  islands  we  found  oui-  way  blocked  by  a  tree  which  had 
fallen  entirely  across  the  stream,  and  we  were  compelled  to  turn  back  and  j)roceed  by  another 
channel.  These  interruptions  occurred  frequently  while  passing  through  this  portion  of  the 
river,  but  our  pr(jgress  was  very  rai)id  notwithstanding. 

Toward  10  o'clock  a  brisk  wind  from  the  west  sprang  up,  and  soon  increased  to  a  uiod- 
erate  gale,  accompanied  by  a  heavy  rain,  and  being  directly  in  our  faces  was  exceedingly 
disagreeable.  At  noon  the  sun  came  out.  and  I  got  an  observation.  Toward  8  p.  m.  we  reached 
the  Indian  village  where  Stoney  turned  back  in  1884,  and  were  about  to  camp,  when  a  note 
was  handed  me  from  Marsh,  dated  July  17,  and  informing  me  that  in  attempting  to  get  the 
launch  farther  down  stream  she  had  gone  ashore  in  the  rapids,  and  at  the  time  of  writing  there 
seemed  no  way  of  saving  her.  I  determined  to  keep  straight  on  to  the  launch  without  delay, 
and  so,  after  partaking  of  a  hastily-prepared  supper  of  fish  and  tea,  we  bade  our  Indian  friends 
good-bye  and  started  down  stream.  Soon  a  bend  in  the  river  hid  the  fires  of  the  village  fnmi 
our  sight.  The  murmuring  of  the  current  as  it  swept  along  the  rocky  shores  drowned  the 
voices  of  the  children  at  play.  The  howling  of  the  dogs  died  away  in  the  distance,  and  the 
wind  and  rain  having  ceased  a  strange  silence  fell  upon  us  all. 

There  was  no  need  to  paddle  now.  The  swift  current  bore  the  Pioneer  along  at  the  rate 
of  eight  to  ten  miles  per  hour.  Through  narrow  passages  and  deep  pools  we  rushed.  Now 
past  low  banks,  with  the  darkening  mountains  away  off  across  the  purple  tundra  plains;  then 
shut  in  by  high  rocky  shores  toi)ped  by  clustering  spruce  and  birch,  whose  tops  stootl  oiit  like 
needle-points  against  the  star-lit  sky.    Now  the  river  is  once  more  a  single  stream,  with  an 


H.fil.   TJ^,  40    1 


i.iTTi.K  sA\A(a-:. 


GRANDMOTHER. 


CRUISE  OF  THE  STEAMER  C(  )RWIN.  41 

occaHioiial  islmid  in  tlio  bnidH.     Tho  soft  divrkiu'SH  full  like  a  veil  upoi)  tlio  river,  and  wlion  the 

imtoii  roHc  it  cast  ([iiccr  hIiikIows  aloiij;  tiic  liiiiiks.  On.  on.  at  Ix'cak-iirck  Hpuod,  jiasl  densely 
wdoiled  Hteeps  and  locky  l)lutl'H,  past  uiossy  banks  lillud  with  flowers,  and  low  i)lains  covered 
by  la^oonH — on  to  the  launcli. 

The  dead  spruce  btootl  up  j^rini  and  white  in  the  senii-darknesB,  and  in  the  silence  of  the 
ni^lit  seemed  like  a  company  of  shrouded  j^hosts  gliding  swiftly  up  sti'eam.  Once  a  white  owl 
left  his  percli  and  swooped  down  within  a  foot  of  our  heads,  and  then  with  a  flap  of  his  wings 
disappeared  in  the  darkness.  By  li  o'clock  W(»  reachecl  the  loisg  reach  filled  with  I'ocks  just 
above  tin*  1  dace  where  we  had  parted  com |)any  with  tlu*  launch.  The  Indians  stood  forward 
with  their  poles,  and  Tah-tah-i'ok  and  I  sat  aft  with  paddles  to  steer  the  boat  through,  for  I 
deterrninecl  to  shoot  the  rapids  rather  than  lose  time  in  dropping  her  down.  With  a  rush'and 
a  roar  we  ])luugiMl  past  huge  bowhh^rs  fi'iiige<l  witii  foam,  so  close  sometimes  as  to  enable  us  to 
touch  them  with  our  hands,  and  then  ove.'  Jagge(l  rocks  lying  beiieiiMi  the  surface,  StMue- 
tinn's  tile  men  I'irward  would  utter  a  sharp,  short  cry,  and  j)lunge  theii'  poles  overl)oard,  imd, 
in  spite  of  the  rusiiinff  current,  bring  tlie  boat's  liead  up  stream,  so  as  to  a\-oid  a  dangerous 
ro(^k;  but  with  this  exception  not  a  word  was  spoken. 

In  ten  minutes  we  cleared  the  rapids  and  came  in  sight  of  the  spot  where  we  had  left  the 
launch.  A  j)iece  of  white  cloth  Hutter<Hl  gt'utly  from  tlie  top  of  a  long  ])ole  on  the  l)ank,  and 
stopping  there  I  found  a  cache  of  provisions  and  several  heavy  articles  of  our  camp  outfit,  with 
a  note  from  Mr.  Townsend,  dated  the  Ptfh  instant,  saying  that  aftert  wo  days"  hard  wnilv.  during 
which  evei'ything  hail  to  be  taken  out  of  the  launch  anil  carried  through  water  nearly  u|t  to 
their  necks  to  tlie  shore,  they  had  succeeded  in  floating  her  ovei'  the  grjivel  i)ed  upon  which 
shit  had  grounded,  and  that  they  were  now  encamped  in  a  comparatively  s.ii'e  spot  about'  ten 
miles  below  the  cache.     We  put  the  things  into  th(>  boat  and  |>roci'i'ilcil. 

Ju.st  below  this  |ioint  the  I'iver  widens  and  many  gravel  beds  obstruct  its  course,  lii^re 
t-he  launch  grounded  in  attemi>ting  to  go  down,  but  our  light  boat  shot  straight  down  without 
diflicidty.  and  at  !  1  o'clock  we  came  in  sight  of  the  tents  of  oiir  party  and  tlie  launch  salVly  tied 
up  alongside  the  i)ank.  We  dro|)[ieil  down  upon  them  very  quietly  and  with  a  trcmeinlous 
yell  awoke  them  from  their  slooj)  and  prixdaimed  our  return. 

I  was  glad  to  find  all  hands  well,  and  Mr.  Townsend  assured  •  that  man\-  valuable  sjieci- 
mens  of  tin*  natural  histoi-y  of  the  connti'y  had  been  collect'  .  during  my  absence.  At  the 
camp  T  found  some  fresh  bear  meat,  and  in  a  ••'liort  while  we  sat  down  to  a  most  delicious  sup- 
])er  of  bear  ste.ak.  hot  biscuit,  and  cofTee,  which,  considering  the  fact  that  we  had  traveled  over 
one  hundred  nnles  without  stopi)ing  to  eat  bnt  twice,  was  found  to  l)e  most  acceptable. 

So  ends  the  voyage  of  tlie  Pioneer, 

On  July  28  the  entire  party  started  for  the  coast.  The  river  was  rajiidly  falling,  and  1 
learned  from  a  family  of  Indians  who  were  encamped  near  us  that  if  we  delayed  much  the 
steam-launch  could  not  be  gotdown.  This  seemed  to  be  extremely  [irobable.  for  we  had  hardly 
gotten  fairly  started  when  the  launch  became  unnuinageable  and  I'an  out  on  a  gi'avel  bed. 
The  current  forced  her  completely  over  on  her  beam  ends,  and  if  Lewis  had  not  promptly 
hauled  the  fires  and  blown  off  the  steam  sei'ions  conseipiences  might  have  followed.  As  it  was, 
we  found  it  impossible  to  hold  her  head  up  stream  by  any  ordinary  means  and  so  were  com- 
pelled to  fill  four  coal  sacks  with  stones  from  cm  shore  and  j)lant  this  ijni)roviseil  "bower" 
some  distance  up  .stream  with  a  line  attiiched.  by  means  of  which  we  were  enabled  to  get  the 
launch  into  deep  water  again.  By  shoi'tening  up  on  this  line  and  going  back  on  the  engine  we 
slowly  •'clubbed"  our  way  through  the  intricate  passages  and  at  5  p.  m.  found  ourselves  where 
we  could  proceed  in  the  nsuiil  numni^r. 

At  8  o'clock  we  reached  an  Indian  fishing  village  and  cami)ed.  The  fishing  seascm  was 
now  at  its  height  and  we  obtained  some  magnificent  .salmon  from  the  natives.  From  this 
village,  bearing  northwest  by  compass,  is  a  series  of  three  lakes  of  which  Car-le-ok-shuk  is  the 
npnrost  to  the  river  and  separated  from  it  l>y  a  range  of  rugged  mountains  from  three  thousand 
to  thirty-five  hundred  feet  high.  A  small  stream  runs  into  the  Kowak,  by  means  of  which  th« 
H.  Ex.  153 6 


42  CRUIHE  OF  THK  HTKAMKR  CUmWIN. 

vi<inily  of  tlic  lakes  can  l>t<  rojiclic*!;  Itiit  no  dirt'ct  rumiiiimii'atidii  )»y  watt-r  cxiHls,  ami  T  am 
ini'liiirtl  l<  think  that  if  any  nnth't  to  these  hikes  exists,  it  Hows  luirthwaril  into  tlie  Noiitak. 
Thi*  I'unnti'y  lyin^  tn  tlie  northward  of  these  htkes  is  nionntainons.  ami  it  is  likely  that  nnmy 
small  lakes  exist  in  this  rej^ion.  When  traveling  to  th"  head  of  the  rivt>r  dnrii'K 'lie  winter 
the  route  generally  pursned  is  to  the  southern  side  of  the  Kowak,  win'i'c*  the  monnlains  are  less 
precipitous  and  the  trail  less  ohstrneted  liy  thicki'ts  and  timhertMl  land.  On  the  north  side  a 
f<>\v  .'ununer  portages  exist  for  JourneyinK  to  the  vicinity  of  l^ake('ar-loog-ah-l(M  k-tah;  hut  as 
they  are  seldom  nsetl  I  could  not  obtain  any  detinite  information  in  reganl  to  the  cluiracter  of 
the  country  through  which  they  lay. 

The  next  day  (July  v".*)  the  river  fell  so  rapidly  that  I  (h'cided  to  wait  until  i  hegan  to  rise 
nK<iiu  before  proc**ediiig.  Tlie  day  wiut  spent  in  getting  a  Hut  uf  ohHervations  i.nd  in  seeking 
information  in  geuei'al  of  tlu  Imlians. 

At  this  s  illage  th'M'e  were  eight  wonn-n,  ten  children,  and  only  one  num.  Tin*  linshands 
of  the  wonu'ii  were  away  in  the  niountains  hunting  deer,  and  the  solitary  roi)re<(  ntative  of  the 
sterner  sex,  a  decrepit  old  fellow,  sixty  or  seventy  years  of  age,  seenu'd  to  have  some  didiculty 
in  holding  his  own  against  such  oi'ds. 

Tlie  lishing  season  being  at  its  height,  the  women  were  busy  all  day  and  until  it  becanu'  oo 
dark  at  night,  hauling  theii-  stunes.  A  large  lire  was  kept  up,  in  which  rouni.  stones,  two  and 
a  half  to  four  inches  in  diameter,  were  heated  red  hot,  and  when  a  meal  was  desii'ed  they  were 
thrown  into  u  tub  of  water,  rapidly  raising  its  temperature  to  the  boiling  ])oi!it.  A  half-dozen 
lish  were  then  put  in,  and  in  a  few  nnunents  the  natives  gathered  lound  the  lire,  and  after  the 
wonuin  who  supei'intended  tlie  cooking  luid  removed  the  lish  from  the  tu')  and  placed  them 
in  a  large  wooden  tray,  they  fell  to  without  ceremoi\y  and  ate  until  the  supply  was  exhausted. 
In  a  short  while  another  haul  of  the  seine  would  be  nnide  and  another  feast  inaugurated,  so  that 
one  sometimes  wonders  if  it  is  possible  to  appease  tli(>ir  apj)etites. 

The  Indians  of  my  jtarty  took  an  active  part  in  eating  the  lish  after  they  ha<l  been  cfjoked; 
but  I  nevei'  saw  one  assist  in  their  capture  by  so  much  as  helping  the  woucen  shove  their  boats 
off  the  beach.  They  would  s((nat  lazily  ilown  on  their  haunches  and  look  on  with  ludicrous 
impassiveiiess  while  the  women  loaded  their  boats  with  the  seine  or  hauled  it  in  heavily 
weighted  with  tish. 

The  chiltlren  assist  the  wojnen,  and  the  scene  wlutn  a  big  haul  is  made  is  picturesi|ue  in  the 
extreme.  A  half  dozen  little  naked  savages,  up  to  their  waists  in  the  water  end  struggling 
frantically  with  refractory  .salmon  and  white-fish,  almost  as  large  as  thi'mselves.  was  an  event 
of  fre(|Uent  occurrence. 

The  fish  which  are  not  immediately  eaten  are  cut  open  and  the  entrails  removed,  and  are 
then  hung  up  to  dry  on  long  j)oles  phu-ed  horizontally  on  upright  sup])oi'ts  along  the  l)each. 
The  head  is  removed  and  the  roe  is  dried  .separately.  Fish  are  sonu'tinies,  though  not  com- 
monly, bui'ied  without  having  been  previously  (leaned,  and  allowed  to  become  jiutrid  before 
eating.  This  form  of  diet  is  esteemed  a  luxury,  hut  owing  to  the  trouble  of  trans])orting  it 
when  traveling  it  is  not  so  common  is  the  dried  fish.  I  attempted  to  eat  some  of  the  buried 
lish.  but,  in  sjiite  of  the  fact  that  I  was  vei'y  hungry  at  the  time,  I  could  not  retain  it  on  my 
Htoniach,  and  I  am  .satisfied  that  a  white  man  winihl  starve  before  his  stomach  could  he  edu- 
cuted  u]),  or  down,  to  this  re|)nlsive  diet.  In  ad<1ition  to  the  drying-jjoles,  each  fi.shing  villagt^ 
contains  n  s(inare  house,  ten  or  twelve  feet  high.  nni(l(>  of  j)iles  and  cov<'ri'd  by  small  poles. 
When  a  sulficitMit  number  of  tish  have  been  dried  on  the  poles,  they  are  put  in  this  lunise  and 
thoroughly  smoked,  and  are  then  ready  foi-  storing  a%fay  for  winter  use. 

The  .s(Mnes  are  cleverly  nnide  from  the  inside  bai-k  of  the  willow  and  range  from  thirty  to 
sixty  fe(>t  in  length  by  four  to  six  feet  in  width.  Pieces  of  deer  antlei's  a7'(>  commonly  used  as 
sinkers  for  tlu^  seines.  In  many  places  along  the  i  iver  the  banks  are  filled  with  a  tough  fibrous 
root,  from  which  is  manufactured  a  most  admirable  substitute  for  twine.  Seines  made  of  this 
nuitiM'ial  iire  accounted  su])erior  to  any  others,  and  from  my  experience  with  one  which  we  had 
brought  frcnn  the  shij),  I  do  not  think  a  com])arison  with  the  native  article  would  show  that 
civilization  had  made  any  improvement  in  this  direction,  excei)t  perhaps  in  point  of  weight. 


H    Bl    |JJ,49  I 


^ii 


^mAt. 


KOWAK  RUKK  WOMAN,  SIIOWIM.  IIOOU  <iK  "PAKKA.' 


H  Ki.  15J,  4,,  , 


KOWAK  K1\KK  VOt'.NCi  MAN. 


(•UriHK  UK  THK  STKAMKU  CnUVVIN.  43 

All  <liiy  w«  liiwl  Im'I'ii  ikiixioiiNly  watchinit  th(>  iIuuiIh  wliii-li  Iiiiiik  nroiiiul  tlio  mountain  iM'itkH 
further  lip  ili«  riv«>r  with  ii  Iiii|n<  of  ruin,  ami  alMtiit  A  p.  ni.  tlicy  Krikiliially  Im-kuii  iiuiviiiK  iiIoi^k 
till'  tiipM  iif  tlii>  inniintaiiiH  frunii'itHt.tn  wt>Nt.  Ntcailily  inrri'iiHin^  in  volMini'itiiil  raiii'lity  »(  motion 
as  till'  sun  wi'iil  iIovmi,  until  tli)*  vvliiitt«f.'<>rtlii<ni  sky  wan  <larki-mM|  ami  llic  alimmphiTr  iMTiinn- 
Niiltry  ainl  op|irrsHiv'i<.  Tli)*  situation  of  oifPciti'jj,  on  I  In*  sii|i<  ul'  a  vvomly  I  tint)',  k'^vc  ns  a  'iia^- 
nilli'i'iit  view  of  till'  valley  of  llii>  river  and  lln>  n.  iitn  tains  lowanl  I  lie  east,  ami  lonk(  itel'ore  the 
I'oininvr  I'ain  reaehed  us  we  coujil  s)>e  tlii>  riusteriiiK  sprnre  Iteml  ami  ilarken  on  tlie  liillsides,  the 
willow  thickets  sliiver  in  the  Niilley,  ami  the  silvei'  liireli  turn  pale  ami  t  rem  Me  liet'ore  the  ei  lin- 
ing of  tile  liiast.  Ami  as  we  lookeil  away  oil  across  the  low  ki'i'i'Ii  viklley,  with  its  hnmlreds  of 
hiKoons,  which  xleanieil  in  the  rays  of  tin*  Ni>ttint(  niiii,  lliecloinlH  Heeiiieij  to  nnisM  theinselves 
upon  the  liei|{iits  ami  <'hai'Ke  down  into  the  valley,  olilileratiiiK  whole  moiinliiins  iiikI  drowniiiK 
the  very  llKht  of  day.  'I'lie  iiiKlit  and  the  storm  came  lo^jetlier,  and  for  hours  we  lay  in  our 
teiitH  and  listened  to  th<<  iiowlin^of  the  wind,  thelii-i-ce  U-at  of  th«>  niiii.aiid  tlie  rapidly  im-reiiH- 
iliK  inurmur  of  the  river  as  it  swept  past  our  camp. 

When  niorniiiK  hroke  the  storm  was  still  laKiiiK  and  the  river  had  rison  almost  a  foot 

<lurin>{  the  ni^ht.     At  H  o'elock  a  short  lull  unw  iin  an  op|>ortunity  to  hn-iak  camp  and  prot I. 

At  this  point  the  river  runs  to  the  .southwest,  leaving  the  mountains  on  the  north  side,  and  Ki'^d- 
nally  approaches  the  raiiKc  in  the  south.  Many  sand  ami  gravel  spils  miike  out  from  the  sliures 
ami  (he  ciiiirHe  of  the  stream  is  very  tortuous. 

'{'he  width  of  the  river  in  this  part  is  from  two  hundred  to  two  hiimlretl  and  tifty  yards,  and 
tlie  ilepth  of  water  varies  from  six  to  eij^ht  feet.  The  current  was  now  ahoiit  tive  knots,  lint 
in  the  lieiids.  where  sami  spits  projected  from  the  upposite  shore  niid  the  channel  lieciinie  nar- 
row, it  increased  somucli  that  we  were  compelled  In  drop  the  launch  throiiKh  liackwards  hy 
nieaiiH  of  an  anchor  kept  out  up  st ream.  Two  of  the  Indians  in  small  canoes  were  kejit  iivti 
liundi'ed  yards  in  advance,  and  hy  means  of  sijfmds  pninted  mit  the  hest  channel.  At  :i  p.  m., 
having  piissed  some  \ery  shoal  places  and  arrived  at  a  place  where  the  river  turns  toward  thu 
south,  I  stop|ie(i  and  camped,  hoping  to  Ki't  some  oliservatiouH. 

Mr.  Townsend  and  I  climhed  the  mountains  near  the  camp,  and  the  storm  linvin>?  rea.se(l, 
we  had  a  tine  view  of  the  country,  .\iioiil  li\e  mill's  from  the  river  we  ^{ot  upon  ii  lidKi' over- 
looking the  country  to  the  nortliward  iind  discovered  a  river  of  considerahle  size  llowiiiK  into 
the  Kowak.  soinedistance  helow,  from  the  northeast.  The  river  rauK"'.  althouKli  covered  with 
moss  and  timher  on  the  side  nearer  the  river,  was  precipitous  and  ru^^p'tl  in  the  extreme  hm 
tlu'  other.  Deeji,  ahrupt  cartons  and  koi'K'"'*  <'ould  lie  seen  in  every  direction.  When  we 
reached  the  ridK<'.  afti'r  rlimliiiiK  aloiiK  densely  wooded  slopes  and  mossy  plains,  and  first 
beheld  the  totally  ditl'erent  country  heyond,  the  effect  was  startliiiR. 

The  tundrii  plains  are  (illed  with  lierries,  and  we  have  nodithculty  in  olitaiiiiii^;  an  iiKuii- 
ilaiice  of  siilnioii,  hhie,  and  wild  raspherrii's.  while  in  places,  especially  on  hi^jh  land,  the  wild 
currant  was  found  of  excellent  ipiality.  To  tliese  articles  of  diet  may  he  added  the  wild  onion, 
rhuliarh.  and  parsnip,  which  formed  an  iij^reeahle  change  from  ourd.iily  rations,  'i'lie  Indians 
are  very  fond  of  the  wild  [larsnip  and  adopt  a  shrewd  plan  for  ),'i'tlinf;  a  sujiply  without  the 
trouble  of  collecting  it-  The  tield  inou.ie  is  very  coninion  in  this  rej^ion,  and  before*  the  winter 
sets  in  has  constructed  himself  a  house  and  tilled  it  with  tlu'  desinible  root.  Now.  all  tli 
Indian  has  to  do  is  (to  use  the  words  of  my  interjireter),  "  Look  for  mouse-liniise;  hinieliv 
little  hill:  Iiijiin  iUk  n|>  little  hill:  ketclium  plenty  root;  very  >;oo(l  I" 

To  b"  fully  a|ii)ii'ciated  by  the  native  j^ourmand  it  must  be  first  lioiled  with  fish  or  seal  oil, 
and  if  molasses  or  supir  is  obtainable  it  is  sweetened  by  the  addition  of  one  or  both  of  these 
ingredients.  The  wild  parsnip  is  common  aloiij^  the  I'ivei's  iind  in  the  low  valleys  of  all  North- 
ern Alaska,  and  Mynnka.  the  interpreter,  who  lives  on  the  Yukon,  informed  me  that  its  u.seas 
an  article  of  diet  is  connnon  on  that  river.  Apropos  of  the  native  fondness  for  snjfur,  and  in 
fact  all  sjiccharine  suiistances,  it  is  reinarkiible  that  they  have  nevei' jicipiircl  the  taste  fni' siilt. 
The  river  Indians  do  not  eat  salt  with  their  food.  )ind  in  fai't  object  to  it  with  manifest  repiijf- 
nance  when  forced  to  eat  such  .articles  as  bacon,  luiin,  &c..  which  are  neces-sarily  very  salty. 

At  noon  on  July  31,  after  having  lested  at  this  village  a  day  and  a  lialf,  we  left  and  pur- 


e 

SI  (■ 


44  •       CKUISE  OF  THE  STEAMER  CORWIN. 

sui!(l  our  journey  down  stream.  During;  tlie  iiftornoon  we  iiaswcd  nnii  exaniined  tlie  moiitliH  of 
tliu  river  wliieli  Mi'.  Townsend  and  1  noticed  flowing  from  i\w  nortlieast  wliile  we  were  on  tlie 
mountains.  The  river  lias  two  jjrineijtal  mouths,  fonninj^  a  delta  about  two  miles  King.  They 
wertt  uhout  seventy-live  yards  vvidc!  and  from  six  to  ten  feet  deep.  The  native  mime  is  El-yog- 
o-lok-tok,  or  Rocky  Rivor.  None  of  my  party  luid  ever  ascomled  it,  and  no  extended  infornui- 
tion,  except  that  it  (lowed  tbrougli  a  mountainous  country,  and  its  channel  was  liiled  with 
ro(^ks,  could  ho  obtained. 

At  niglit,  after  i)assing  many  islands  covei'ed»with  spnico  and  willow,  wo  readuMl  the  foot 
of  the  mountains  bounding  the  Kowuk  Valley  on  the  south.  From  this  point  thtM-oui'.se  of 
the  river  turns  to  the  northward  and  wt'stward  toward  tint  Jade  Mountains,  whicii  can  be  seei' 
lying  dim  and  blue  in  the  distance.  As  the  position  is  an  imjiortant  one,  lieing  possibly  the 
southern  limit  of  the  river's  course,  I  stopped  and  camped  in  order  to  get  a  good  set  of  obser- 
vations. 

The  rain  still  cjinie  down  in  a  steady,  willful,  j)ersistent  fashion  wliich  was  most  disheart- 
ening, and  even  the  Indians,  who  generally  seem  to  care  as  little  for  a  wetting  as  a  duck,  looked 
washed  out,  faded,  iiiid  disconsolate.  The  camp  was  pitched  on  a  rocky  beach  at  the  base  of  a 
low  blulV.  but  befoi'e  morning  the  river  rose  four  feet  and  drowned  us  out,  and  it  was  with 
considerable  haste  that  the  teiits  and  impetlinienta  were  bundled  up  iUi'  stee])  bank  and  placed 
beyond  the  reach  of  tht*  flood.  The  tgp  of  the  blnfT  was  overgrown  with  moss  and  willow  l)riisli, 
and  it  was  found  to  be  iin]iossible  to  ])itch  our  (ents.  The  mos([uitoes  have  become  impervious 
to  rain,  and  aftei-  the  party  had  finished  exploring  the  bushes  for  a.  tit  j)lace  to  camp  they 
returned  to  the  rivei'  bank,  eiich  attended  by  a  cloud  of  nios(iuit(jes,  whiidi.  if  they  <lid  not 
make  our  lives  iia|ipy,  at  least  cau.sed  us  to  forget  all  other  disconiforts  by  theii-  pei'sistent  nnd 
'iloodtliirst y  attacks. 

With  the  first  streaks  of  dawn  steam  was  got  on  the  launch,  and  as  soon  as  we  could  see 
well  enough  to  pick  out  the  chamiel  W(^  left  our  disnud  cam])  and  incontinently  fled.  Onr  tor- 
mentors followed  us  a  short  distance,  but  once  out  in  the  middle  of  tiie  rivei-,  here  about  five 
hundred  yards  wide,  the  launcdi  was  urged  alx'ad  n\  full  s])eed,  and,  aided  by  the  strong  cur- 
rent, W((  swe])t  down  past  the  flooded  banks  with  frightful  velocity,  and  the  mosquitoes  were 
left  behinil. 

At  sunrise  we  came  in  sight  of  a  fishing  village,  and  my  thi-ee  rivei-  Indians  immediately 
recognized  it  as  their  home,  which  had  been  removed  fr(<m  the  i)!ace  wiiere  1  had  picked  them 
up.  We  landed,  and,  finding  a  good  place  to  camp,  we  soon  had  our  tents  pitched  and  fires 
built  to  tlry  our  soaked  clothing.  The  father  of  the  Indians  whoa,ccom|mnied  me  was  on  hand 
to  meet  us  ami  1  watched  with  some  curiosity  how  he  would  meet  his  sons.  1  was  surprised  to 
see  that  he  did  not  notice  them,  nor  they  him,  by  the  slightest  word  or  action.  All  of  his 
remarks  were  addresseil  to  Tah-fah-rok,  and  luid  relation  to  the  weather,  run  of  fish,  &c. 

After  the  cam])  had  l)een  i)itched  the  Indians  of  my  party  and  those  from  the  village  sat 
down  round  the  fire  and  smoked  silently  for  some  time.  At  last  one  of  my  ]iarty  began  in  a 
high  key  and  very  abruptly  to  give  an  account  of  our  trip.  He  was  interru])ted  from  time  to 
time  by  short  ejaculations  of  suj'])rise  or  ap])roval,  and  as  the  narrative  jirogressi'd  these 
interru])tions  became  more  fi-equent  until  at  its  close  the  spejiker  ended  <piite  as  abi'uplly  as  hi- 
had  begun,  and,  rising  from  his  seat  on  the  ground,  walked  slowly  to  the  fishing  village  and 
went  into  his  father's  house. 

By  a  strange  coincid(Mice.  onr  camj)  was  situated  (m  the  very  s])ot  where,  the  year  before. 
I  had  reached  the  Kowak  by  making  a  jiortage  from  an  Indian  village  situated  on  the  Um-ok- 
a-look-tok  River.  A  short  di.stam  e  back  of  the  river,  on  the  south  side,  a  series  of  lakes  extended 
idmost  to  the  mountains  bounding  the  valley  in  that  direction.  The  confornnif  ion  of  the  coun- 
try and  the  [losition  of  these  lakes  with  reference  to  ea(di  other  i)lainly  shows  that  at  no  dis- 
tant day  the  channel  of  the  river  was  there,  and  that  in  accordance  with  the  principles  of  a 
meandering  stream  the  .swift  current  had  gradually  cut  a  new  channel  through  the  soft  banks, 
and  the  old  river  bed  soon  resolved  itself  into  a  chain  of  shallow  lakes.     As  this  formation  is  a 


H.  Kx    151,  4()  I 


^-^ 


"^^iFjBfT 


VIEW  OK   MULNIAINS  1- KO.M  1  lU.\  ALASKA. 


BARABARA  AND  WOMAN.  Ol'NAl.ASK A. 


II.  Kx.  151  49  I 


•'•.;■.,:■■•■>■■.■>■■;  ;.V;;'--Kr  ^- ::^^;!■;*-^ 

sfeviitiwi:..'.,/'.-:;'':'';^,'  ■■  •"■  ■  ::'-yi^ 


!IITIfti:*1IBiiiH 


WAI  KKIAl.l,.  Ill  NAI.ASKA 


HkltSl    KO(  K,  OLNALASKA. 


CRUISE  OF  THE  STEAMER  CORWIN. 


45 


characteristic  feature  of  the  entire  river  where  its  courHe  is  unobstructed  ])y  nioiintaiuH,  it  may 
ho  well  to  consult  (lie  (li.ii,M')iiii  Kiven  1m<1ow.  in  order  to  better  understand  its  nieiming. 

Let  <-''  n'lircsciit  the  direction  of  the  current  and  K  K 
the  first  clwmnel.  Then,  liy  constant  erosion,  the  iianks  at  A 
and  A'  will  lie  >j;radually  broken  down;  Iheilebris  ■  'uduaily 
forniH  ,,;;,>.>„  shoals,  oi'  islands,  in  the  stream,  as  and  C, 

and  the  distance  from  A  to  A"  ami  from  A'  to  i  i-creases 
until,  no  lon>;ei'  cai)al)le  of  withstanding  the  pressure,  the 
banks  give  way,  and  a  new  channel  is  formed.  The  old 
channel  at  A,  A',  and  B  is  ><radually  filled  u|)  by  sediment 
from  the  river,  ami  the  bends  A,  C,  A' and  A',  C",  H  become 
a  system  of  lakes  and  lagoons. 

From  any  liigh  hill  overlooking  the  valley  f)f  the  Kowak 
this  foriinition  can  be  seen,  and  the  number  of  lakes  is  only 
linnted  by  the  extent  of  the  low  level  country  through  which 
the  river  has  ii  (diaiice  to  meander. 

The  rain  continued  to  fall  steadily,  and  the  river  rose 
ra])idly  for  eight  days,  during  which  time  we  ntn'cr  moved, 
e.xcept  as  forciMl  to  do  so  liy  the  rising  water.  I  wante<l  to 
get  a  .set  of  ()l)servations  at  this  point,  particularly  as  a  check 
on  my  last  year's  work,  ami  so  we  made  ourselves  as  comfort- 
ahle  us  possible  under  the  circu instances. 

With  the  rising  of  the  river  the  current  increased,  and  1^' 
the  launeh  was  in  diiiiger  of  being  torn  f'-oju  her  position 
alongside  the  i)ank  liy  floating  drift-wood,  in  oi'der  to  avert  the  accident  two  large  trees  were 
secured  and  the  smaller  ends  lashed  together  at  right  angles.  The  butts  wi-re  then  made 
fast  to  the  bank,  the  whole  foi'nung  a  right-angled  triangle,  ^ 

under  the  base  of  which  tiie  launch  was  as  safe  as  if  in  a  dry 
dock. 

The  I'iver  ros(^  on  an  average  two  feet  per  day.  Many 
fi.sh  which  wt-re  drying  on  ))oles  a!'range(l  along  the  beach  at 
the  village  were  swept  away;  the  Indians  seeming  to  be  too 
a])atluttic  or  improvident  to  take  any  precautions  to  save 
them.  We  moved  our  tents  to  a  small  hill  a  short  distance 
froni  the  river  the  tliii'd  day  we  stojiped  here.  The  water 
had  hy  this  time  overlloweil  the  banks  in  low  places  .and  \vi' 
were  eiiableil  to  reach  tini  lakes  with  snnill  boats.  Our  lime 
wasoceui)ied  in  gunning  and  fishing  in  the  region,  and  many 
speciuHMis  were  ol)tained. 

Once  Marsh  encountered  a  land-otter   while  ]>ad(lling 
across  mw  of  the  small  lagoons  near  <lark.     He  had  nevi-r 
seen  on(»  befort*  and  ai'riveil  in  camj)  with  his  hair  on  end  to  inform  us  that  Im  had  just  loft  a 
crocodile  making  a  meal  of  his  boat.     We  were  soon  in  i)ui'suit,  but  the  shy  animal  got  away. 

In  conversation  with  the  Indians  I  learned  that  ten  days  ])ortage  in  the  winter  time  from 
file  Kowak  brought  the  traveler  to  the  banks  of  a  stn^am  b(*yond  the  Noiltak.  and  whi(di  flowed 
into  th(!  seji.  where  "  there  ic(<fi  dlinii/s  ire."'  Near  its  headwaters  there  was  a  lake,  which,  like 
the  lake  :it  the  head  of  tins  Kowak,  became  each  year  th(>  rendezvous  for  hunting.  When  a 
herd  of  deer  is  discovered  the  hunters  surround  it  and  gradually  frighten  the  deer  so  that  they 
seek  to  esciij)!'  by  mea!is  of  the  lake.  Into  ii,  they  jjlnnge,  sometinn>s  fifty  at  a  time,  and  there 
fall  easy  victims  to  tlu^  hunters,  who  follmv  them  in  boats,  and  in  order  to  save  ammuuitiou 
give  tlie  coup  de  grace  with  sliort  spears. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  ri  \M'r  they  say  the  Indians  gather  for  the  purpose  of  trading  with 
these  from  other  parts  of  the  country.     The  current  is  I'apid  and  the  river  is  shoal  for  a  long 


LAUNCH 


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03 

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Y 

46  CRUISE  OV  THE  STEAMER  CORWIN. 

diHtniice.  Coal  of  n  very  /^ood  (jimlity  is  t'omul  in  dills  uinii>j;  its  ImiikH.  tiiiii  in  order  to  iiHcer- 
taiii  thi'  Uiitivv'  iilcii  of  ^uod  coal  I  nsknl  my  int'orinaiit  if  it  was  as  Ko<»d  as  tin-  coal  found  on 
the  Kowak,  and  lie  said  (hat  the  Kowak  coal  was  •'rocky"  (/.  i'..  slaty),  hut  tiiat  on  (he  riv(*r 
doscrihed  was  very  soil  and  hlack.  The  Indian  name  for  (his  s(ream  is  Kar-n'yt'r-nok,  and  I 
hiivo  no  liesitation  in  wayiuK  that  it  is  the  Colville  of  p'o^raphcrH. 

On  Aut^ust  S  the  rain  ceased,  and  soon  afterwards  the  river  he^^an  to  fall.  Ry  nex(  day  the 
hanks  of  the  stream  hei-ame  (listiuKnishahle,  and  soon  the  emptyinjf  lagoons  foi-nu'd  miniatni'e 
cascades,  which  tumhlod  down  thebrokon  hunks  ami  splashed  noisily  into  tho  river.  TIumIoikIs 
rolled  away,  tlut  sun  canu'  out,  and  the  dank,  hedra^K''''!  foliage  Huunit'd  to  take  fresh  courago 
under  tile  inlluenci!  of  its  wai'ining  rays. 

With  tlie  first  appearance  of  tlie  sun  I  got  some  observations,  and  at  noon  of  August  !t  I  took 
the  launch  out  and  started  hack  up  the  river,  in  order  to  get  a  set  of  observations  at  the  j)Ia(!3 
where  oui'  cani|)  of  August  I  had  been  drowned  out.  We  found  the  river  still  Idgh  and  the 
current  ])roportionately  stronger,  but  the  lauiich,  being  unhampered  by  the  skin  boat,  nuido 
good  way  against  it.  and  by  lughtfall  we  reached  a  high  sand  biulV  formed  by  a  ridge  running 
in  from  the  mountains  on  thesouthei'n  side  of  the  rivei'.  This  I  considered  a  favorable  spot  for 
a  set  of  oliservatioiis.  as  it  is  where  I  he  river  turjis  in  its  cour.s(»  toward  the  southwest  and  Mows 
nu)ro  toward  the  nv)rthward  and  west.  In  coming  down  the  river  the  Jade  Mountain  here  first 
comes  in  sight,  and  foi"  a  long  distance  forms  a  prominent  feature  of  the  landscape. 

Mr.  Townsend  was  soon  b\isy  with  the  birds,  and  succee(le(l  in  getting  several  new  siM'ci- 
mens  for  his  collection.  Tht;  weather  cleared  uj)  cold,  and  during  tlu!  night  a  light  snow  fell 
in  the  valley,  and  when  moridng  dawned  the  tops  of  the  mountains  wore  covered  with  a  white 
fleecy  mantle  which  gave' to  the  scene  a  wintry  aspect  and  warneil  us  that  the  short  Arctic 
summer  was  drawing  to  a  close. 

Tho  natives  inform  me  that  at  this  time  tho  mountains  at  the  head  of  the  river  are  entirely 
covered  by  snow,  and  (hat  in  (en  or  (welve  days  ice  will  begin  (o  form  there.  The  river  is  never 
entirely  frozen  over,  the  strength  of  the  current  always  ki'e|)ing  a  small  channel  ojien.  When 
the  river  opens  in  (h(^  spring  an<l  the  accumulation  of  ice  liegins  to  move  toward  the  sea  tho 
sight  must  be  inexiiressibly  grand.  The  trtMnendotis  pressure  tears  fisunder  the  baid<s,  upheave^) 
huge  bowlders,  ami  I  have  seen  plact>s  whei-e  a  large  mass  of  ice  had  left  the  river  IhmI  and 
carved  its  way  with  ii-resistil)le  force  through  a  forest  of  spruce,  leveling  all  obstructions  and 
leaving  in  its  path  the  inefi'aceable  evidiMice  of  appalling  strength:  jtrostrate  trees,  uprooted 
bushes,  and  trenches  in  tlie  frozen  earth  six  feet  dee|». 

During  the  afternoon  of  August  1 1,  having  completed  the  woi-k  of  (d)(aining  astronomical 
observations  at  this  point,  W(f  were  about  starting  on  our  way  down  stream,  when  the 
yelling  and  shouting  of  tlm  natives  at  the  village  just  below  us  attracted  oui'  at  tendon  in  (hat 
direction,  and  wobeheld  (he  United  S(ates steam-launch  K.tplorcr.  with  Lieut.  (Jeor,i;i'M.  Ktom-y 
in  command,  (:.;aing  slowly  around  the  bend  and  standing  ovei' towjirds  (he  site  of  our  late 
camp.  We  were  already  under  way  and  going  down  stream;  but  I  stopjx'd  the  launch  and 
ask<»d  Lieutenant  Stoney  if  I  could  bo  of  any  sisrvice  to  him.  He  re((uesteil  im^  to  stop  long 
enough  to  enable  him  to  make  u])  his  mail  intended  for  tho  United  States,  which  1  did. 

While  lying  alongside  the  Krplorrr  the  gauge-glass  of  our  launch  bi'oke,  and  the  pi'omjit 
action  of  Lewis  and  Marsh  alone  preventecl  serious  injury  to  the  boiler.  Mr.  Zane,  of  tho 
E.vi>hn('i\  offered  nm  the  fatdlitios  of  the  engineer's  dei)artmont  to  repair  the  <lamage;  hut 
as  we  had  (^very  facility  at  hand  on  tlie  launch,  it  was  not  necessary  to  avail  ourselves  of  liis 
kindness  further  than  to  acce|)t  an  e.xtra  gauge-glass  in  case  of  future  acci<leiit. 

After  spending  an  hour  very  ph^asantly  together  we  jiarted  company.  Lieutenant  Stoney 's 
])arty  jiroceeding  u[)  stream  toward  the  jilace  which  he  had  selected  for  his  winter  headciiiai'ters, 
wliih^  the  expedition  under  my  command  drojipeil  leisurely  down  streiim,  stopiiing  at  intervals 
^o  get  observations,  to  obtain  specimens  of  the  fiowcM-s  and  grasses,  which  grew  in  the  utmost 
profusion  along  the  shores,  or  to  climb  some  hill  where  the  character  of  the  country  could  he 
best  asc((rtained. 

At  night  wo  reached  asand-sjiit  in  the  i-iv.-r  a.  short  distance  above  tlie  Nnt-mok-to-way-ok 
(river)  and  camped.     The  counse  of  tlio  Kowak  is  hero  about  northwest,  and  trends  more  toward 


II.  K«.  153,49  • 


PKT" 


£Sfi^^---   -  ■  -— MEfiiil' 


JADE  MOI'NTAIN.     KOWAK  RIVER. 


ffi^i 


KCVVAK  RIVER,  VICINITY  OK  JAUE  MOUNTAIN. 


CUUISE  OF  THK  8TEAMKH  COttWlN.  47 

tho  inoiiiitdiiiH  h(iiiiuliii>?  tlio  viilloy  on  tlu»  north.  Tin*  Noi-inok-to-wiiy-ok  tnkt's  itH  Hmo  in  tliin 
rliiiin  uf  mountiiins,  wliicli  form  llin  wutorslutil  liotwcKii  tliti  Kowiik  hiuI  Noiiliik,  iiml  llowh  in  ii 
HouthwuHt  tliri^ctiou  into  t)to  Kowuk,  itu  junuiion  with  thti  iutter  Htrciun  lu-in^  inai-ki>il  hy  un 
iNliind  sonn<  two  miUtn  in  (lianuttiir,  mo  that  tho  tr  ^vcidr  in  iiHuuntlin^  tho  Kuwiik  ami  arrivinK  ut 
this  |i(iint  will  ln'  |iii/,/,li'(l  to  know  whicli  rontu  to  takn. 

A  Honiowhat  similar  foiinalion  ox'iHts  at  tliu  jnnction  of  thn  Hiit-o-f<ar-rik-|ink  or  S  inincl 
llivt«r  witii  till)  Kowak.  anil  tlut  similarity  l^ails  mo  to  Ix^lit^vo  that  iil  times  Ihi'si' two  triliu- 
tarit's,  which  at  tlui  time  of  my  visit  wnm  not  half  so  huK"  'ih  the  Kowak.  Iiccomc  swollen  liy 
the  melt inj?  snow  of  tho  mountains  and  ovcrllow  the  valley  of  the  Kowak,  hreakin^  throu^li 
tho  low  hanks,  ami  thns  form  the  islands  which  attracted  my  attention. 

From  the  jnnction  of  tlie  Not-mok-to-way-ok  the  Kowak  gradinilly  trondn  toward  the  west- 
ward, 'i'he  hends  are  less  atirnpt,  the  shores  hecoine  fai'tluT  apart,  and  the  I'iver  seems  to 
cease  for  a  while  its  erratic  and  tortiions  windings,  and  to  assunu'  all  the  fnnclions  and  attri- 
hntes  of  a  nni.jesti(!  stream.  Mention  has  heon  nnido  Ix'fore  in  this  report  of  the  calm  heanty 
of  the  I'iver  in  the  vicinity  of  the  .lade  Monntain.  We  had  now  I'eadied  thai  portion  of  the 
stream,  and,  on  .AnKtist  li,  appeared  the  hi^^h  clay  hlntVs  in  whijdi  were  discovered  last  year 
the  remains  of  the  nmmmoth.  F((>r(>,  on  a  hi^h  hlufT,  on  tlio  opposite  sido  of  the  stream,  wn 
saw  the  white  lents  and  heaiul  the  rin^in^  notes  of  (lie  ax.  which  apprised  ns  of  llic  fact  that 
white  men  had  made  this  a  plac(>  to  stop  and  rest.  We  ran  in-shore  and  ascerlaini'il  that  this 
WHS  a  snpply  camp  of  tlm  Htoney  exploring?  party,  tempoi'arily  in  charj^e  of  Knsi^n  Keed, 
U.  S.  N.  At  his  reiinest  we  campecl  near  hy,  and.  as  I  wished  to  compare  my  clironomeier 
with  his.  and  to  jjjet  a  set  of  comparative  si^^hts,  1  determined  to  remain  here  one  dav. 

During  the  next  day  we  remained  in  the  vicinity,  and  I  siicceeiled  in  j^ettin^;  some  photo- 
graphs of  the  J  ado  Monntain,  whitdi  isahont  twelve  miles  from  ihe  river  at  this  point.  I'liotn- 
>;raphs  were  also  ohtaineil  of  tl;  •  river  as  seen  from  the  hiwh  clay  lilnll's. 

The  snmmer  had  now  practically  ended.  The  nij^hts  came  <in  cold  and  (diilly.  and  W(t 
were  loth  to  leave  the  camp-tire  and  tnrn  in.  The  monntains  in  the  north  were  now  snow- 
covored,  and  the  north  winds  wert*  heginninK  to  make  us  sliiver  when  not  at  work.  Ico 
formcil  in  tin-  still  water  of  the  inland  lagoons,  and  snddeidy  we  ohsi-rved  the  woods  were 
HtraiiKi'ly  silent,  for  the  little  feathered  son>;sters  had  migrated  at  the  lirst  c(dd  snap. 

Mr.  Townsund  hrought  into  camp  a  specimen  of  red  snow,  wliich  lio  ohtained  on  tlie  monnt- 
ains,  and  it  was  put  in  a  hottle  and  placed  with  tiie  other  articles  fornduK  '""'  collection  of 
natnral  history. 

After  siM>ndin,i<  a  most  enjoyahle  time  in  company  with  Knsign  Heed  and  Dr.  Nash  at  this 

encampment,  W((  parted  with  mntual  exjjre.ssions  of  jifood  fetdinj^,  and  our  party  pi'( eiled  on 

its  way. 

With  the  increasing  len>;tli  of  nif^ht ,  the  transition  fnnn  lij^lit  to  darkness  is  n\ore  mark<Ml, 
and  a  lover  of  nature's  heauties  is  lost  in  admiration  as  he  j^azes  on  the  transformation  which 
takes  place  when  t!ie  sun  pH!S  down  l)ehind  the  mountains  and  the  valley  K""'^  •"  sleep.  As  it 
disajjiiears  heyoiid  the  ru;(>;eil  jii'aks  in  the  west  the  wlicde  sky  is  ahlaze  with  li),'lit.  At  first 
the  valley  .seems  hatheil  in  a  didicate  luminous  pink,  hut  as  you  looli  the  pink  turns  >i;ray  and 
Ihe  i)ur;)le  sha<lowH  of  the  lower  valley  creep  out  in  every  direction  till  darkness  comes  on. 
Then  one  sees  the  ti'ees  are  no  longer  green,  hut  stand  out  hiai'k  and  sharply  delined 
against  tlie  cold  gray  sky. 

The  summer  had  ended. 

The  description  of  tin*  river  from  this  point  has  alre.idy  lieen  entei'cd  n))on  at  length,  and 
will  hardly  heai'  repetition.  BetAveun  the  Jade  Mountain  and  ihe  mouths  of  the  river  liut 
little  is  seen  hy  the  traveler  hut  a  tortuous  stream  winding  thi'ough  a  flat  uninteresting  coun- 
try, vari(ul  in  one  or  two  jdaces  hy  high  hlutt's,  which  an^  formed  hy  the  foothills  of  the  con- 
lining  chain  of  mountains.  As  the  delta  is  neared  even  these  disap])ear.  The  mountains 
trend  more  toward  tho  north  and  the  river  toward  the  west-southwest,  thus  foi-ming  .a  valley 
or  plain  oviu-  which  the  river  has  flowed  in  a  hundred  different  dinvtiojis. 

At  a  point  eighty  or  one  hundred  miles  up  stream  a  low  range  of  niountuins  touch  tho  river, 


48  CKUIHK  OF  THi<:  HTKAMKH  fOKWIN. 

ftiiil  on  AimuHt  17  wn  rt'iuliiMl  Mum  |iliici«  on  our  (lowMwiinl  journoy.  Mr.  TowiihcihI  hikI  T 
cliinlii'il  to  till'  liipcir  till' iiiiiiiiitiiiii  tunl  fnirii  tliiw  cui^n  of  viiiituKi'  liiul  iin  I'xtciiili'il  vi<>w.  Fnv 
(iwiiy  to  tilt"  wi'Htwivril  tlm  inouiitiiitiH  liroiiiul  Ht-liiwik  Ijiiku  <'uiilil  ho  m»)ii,  itiiil  lM'tw(t<n  um  ami 

Hntliaiii  Iiili'l  w iilil  iiiitkc  out  tli<<  ili'ltii  of  lilt'  Kowiik  witli  it:<  liuii(li't><iH  of  cluiiiiuU  wiiyH 

iMiil  lii^jniiiiM.  sii  cliisc  ti»)j;cllM'i'  tliiit  it  sccMii'd.  us  sifWfcl  fruui  oiii-  puNilinu,  tluit  only  liHlinlit  l-isc 
i'l  tlu«  river  would  Im>  in'ci-ssury  to  rliuup'tliis  Mystfiuof  islHuds,  livf^ooim,  luid  MtrcuniH.  intooiio 
ViHt  slifct  i(f  wiitcr  ill  Hliapf  like  hii  f<|uiiiit('riil  triiiiiKli'.  Iiiiviiin  oiii- of  its  iinj^lcs  iit  our  IVct. 
<Mio  at  tlio  lower  end  of  Selawik  liake,  and  tlie  remaining  one  at  the  north  end  of  liothuni 
Inlet. 

We  oliserved  oil  the  .suinniit 'of  IImh  inounlain  several  piles  of  stoneH,  and  upon  iiii|uiry 
l(»iriied  that  they  were  placed  there  as  landmarks  liy  the  natives  to  serve  as  guides  while  trav- 
eling; diiriii^r  the  winter.  Hii^^e  howlders  of  inarlile  lay  aloiiK  Ihi'  ridKe.  ami  seemed  tu  hav,' 
Iturst  tlieir  way  thiouKh  the  moss  which  covtM'ed  the  mountain  in  all  other  places. 

DiiriiiK  the  intxt  day  wo  paHsed  the  .junction  of  the  S<niirrel  River  with  the  Kowak.  li 
Hows  in  from  the  northeast,  and  heyoiid  heiiiK  '"•''  "f  ^1"'  principal  feeders  of  the  laixe  river  It 
is  not  lielieveil  to  he  of  any  s|iecial  iiiiportance.  A  short  distance  helow  this  place  is  whore 
coal  was  first  discovered  in  the  first  e.xploratioii  hy  me.  Here  the  river  is  coufinod  l)y  ii  soricB 
of  rocky  liliiffs,  and  forms  what  I  have  designated  in  former  descriptions  the  first  or  lower 
rapids.  We  experienced  .Moine  dilHcnlty  in  ^ettin^  through  here,  Imt.  having  ohtaiiied  consid- 
«'rahle  kiiowled;i(e  of  the  channel  hy  former  struKf^les,  we  inaiiaKod  to  got  throu^li  without 
injury. 

The  coal  is  intimately  mi.xed  with  u  Ifiie  white  clay,  which  renders  its  use  for  a  small  fur 
mice  almost  im|)ossil)le.     However,  it  is  my  opinion,  hused  on  the  exporienoo  of  others,  that 
this  seam  if  worked  would  produce  a  piod  ipiality  of  coal. 

I  saw  uiinierous  specimi>iis  of  extra  K<><>d  hitnininons  coal,  which  the  IndiaiiH  claim  could 
he  (liitaiiieil  easily,  on  some  of  the  small  trihiitaries  of  the  Kowak,  lint  I  never  succee<led, 
allhouKh  1  tried  several  times,  to  definitely  locate  the  jilace  where  such  coal  could  he  ohtaiiied. 

Ono  of  tho  most  remarkahle,  in  fiw^t  the  only  remarkalile  featuro  of  the  lower  river,  is  the 
ict>  formation  in  the  IiIkIi  hliick  hlull's.  The  recent  heavy  rains  had  caused  the  river  to  rise 
to  an  unusual  height,  and  I  ohserved  in  nii'iy  places  where  the  erosion  of  the  flood  had  exposed 
viust  masses  of  ici>,  which  had  escajied  my  noticw  formerly.  CliaiiK*'  in  the  order  of  the  day 
here,  and  it  is  no  uncommon  tiling  to  see,  soon  after  a  flood  or  freshet  in  the  river,  musses  of 
earth,  upon  which  trees  thirty  to  foi'ty  feet  IiIkI'  have  j^rown,  suildeiily  hrejik  away  and  fall 
with  a  tremendous  roar  into  the  river.  I  ohtained  sketches  and  jihoto^jraphs  of  these  hrokeii 
hlutfs.  hut  no  i>ictiirecan  ade((uately  jiortray  flie  feelinj;  of  uttisr  desolation  which  this  destruc- 
tive work  of  tile  ever-rnsliiiij;  rivi^r  conveys. 

The  constant  falling  away  of  the  soft  earth,  leaving  the  solid  ico  hare  in  iiiiiiiy  places,  has 
f^iveii  rise  to  many  curious  and  fantastii;  formations. 

Heads  of  men,  women,  and  animals  can  he  readily  discrovored,  ami  if  the  enthusiastic 
tourist  who  sees  in  the  pictured  rocks  of  Lake  Superior  so  much  that  is  womlerful  could  gazo 
upon  tlies(^  icy  cliffs,  his  lunotion  would  he  inexpi'essihle. 

For  miles  along  the  rivor  in  this  portion  of  its  course  tlieso  icy  cliffs  ajipear  and  disaiijiear 
at  regular  intervals,  so  that  it  is  ohserved  that  they  recur  in  hends  that  are  parallel  with  each 
other,  which  would  seem  to  indicate  that  its  existence  is  not  due  to  dejiosits  of  icc^  hy  the  river, 
olso  it  would  he  in  all  of  the  hends,  liut  that  its  jiresence  is  duo  to  some  other  cause.  If  a 
straight  line  is  drawn  through  the  centiM'  of  one  of  the.sii  ice-cliffs,  and  through  the  KNE. 
and  WSW.  points  of  the  compass,  it  will  not  only  touch  all  of  the  cliffs,  hut  if  extended  to 
tho  sen  will  touch  tho  coast  at  a  point  very  near  Ele|iliant  Point,  on  Escholtz  Hay,  where,  it  is 
well  known,  a  peculiar  ico  formation  in  tho  hluffs  has  heen  observed  and  commented  ujion 
hy  numerous  scientific  men. 

Climbing  to  the  top  of  ono  of  these  ice-clifTs.  Mr.  Townsond  and  I  jjushed  our  way  through 
tho  dense  thickets  of  willow  and  luxuriant  growth  of  grass  into  the  interior  for  al)out  one  miles 
whore  wo  found  ii  shallow  lake  about  a  mile  in  diameter,  which  I  have  no  doubt  had  its  origin 


tl    Bl   III,  4« 


I. .]  iu  ...ilit . 


I '}t*»^V-.  :..,7TSIi|iflir^"nI;(7 


, ,,,,". mm. ».•■!»     .li)|l"',„l|ll|-«nni!iiiiiil'ifllll"''l"l*'i 

i ii .|!;;;| !|;;!iiiiliin"iliiiiiiiiii'Mii.*ii« ''<*•»' '  '"""; 


"'■feS-: 


,iil"!  ii«ii::i.'iiiniil|ii:i«,iilii:ii[||,r 


i||,|H<;t'-"'|l|'D''; 


''iil''!»iiiiiiiiiiii!iliil^ 


II  1'.  CI.IIK.s,  KHW  \K  KU  I  l< 


ICK  CI.IKKS,  KOWAK  Kl\  tK,  ALASKA. 


II.  Rl    i\\.  4<|  I 


HKiPKI.N  HI  IKI  N  111    |(  K  AMJ  SAM),  l.nW  \k  \i\\  Kl< 


KUWAK  KIVKK. 


CRUISK  OF  TPIK  STKAMKK  (U)UWIN.  49 

ill  the  muss  of  ico  over  wliicli  we  liad  hcfii  tnivcliii^.  It  is  iiiiiidst-  iiiconcoivabln  how  such  a 
rimiv  vcKi'tiitiuii  ciui  Ix'  siistiiiiicd  iiiKJcr  siicii  (•(Hi(!itiniis.  If  wc  stood  in  oim  jiliict^  any  length 
of  tinio  th(j  sj)oMH:y  moss  iMJCiinio  satunitcii,  anil  soon  a  [looi  of  dark-colortnl  water  made  our 
position  untcnaliif. 

Bi'si(K-s  till'  moss,  hcrrics,  and  slMnlcil  willows,  cliistfrs  of  sjn-ucn  trcvs,  some  mousurinf; 
six  anil  cij^lit  inches  in  diunii'icr,  liavi' taki'ii  root  and  Lcrown  in  the  thin  strata  of  soil  over- 
lying; tho  ii'i).  To  invcstiKatr  this  suiiji'i-t  thorou;;ldy  would  ri'(|iiire  more  time  than  1  have  at 
my  conimaml,  hnt  from  the  superficial  in  vest  ligation  of  this  peculiar  formation  I  am  inclined 
to  helievethat  here  arethe  remuinsof  what  was  a  movin^^  rnshinj;  rivca',  lying  frozen  and  still 
under  the  dank  moss  and  hlack  earth  of  the  Arctic  tundra. 

On  tho  aftornoou  of  August  ^'l  tho  expedition  reached  the  Indian  .settlement  where  we  had 
left  a  cache  of  ]»rovisions,  boat  sails,  &c.,  in  coming  U|).  and  wc  camped  on  a  .sand  hi'ach  opjio- 
site.  We  friind  our  elfects  had  lieen  well  taken  care  of  during  our  absence  by  the  two  old 
women  who  live  here.  During  the  recent  fresiiet  in  the  river  they  had  been  compelled  to 
carry  the  coal  which  we  had  left  on  the  shore  far  up  the  stee|i  bank,  and  I  could  hardly  l)elieve 
that  the  feat  had  been  accomplished  unaided  by  the  decrepit-looking  old  women;  but  uj)on 
inquiry  I  learned  that  such  was  really  the  ca.se. 

Api'opos  of  this  instance,  illustrating  the  strength  of  the  Tnnnit  women,  another  case  came 
under  my  observation  wliiidi  I  consider  worth  relating.  When  about  to  al)andon  the  launch 
in  the  sumnu-r  of  1S,S4,  I  wished  to  obtain  a  stone  large  enough  to  serve  tis  an  anchor,  and  as 
none  was  availal'le  on  the  spot,  a  woman  volunteered  to  go  some  distance  up  a  small  tributary 
of  the  river  and  bring  one  down  to  us  in  her  boat.  When  she  returned  with  the  stone,  and  1 
noted  its  size,  1  w.is  truly  asloinshed.  It  require.'  two  of  my  party,  who  were  Imth  remarkably 
strong  men,  to  lift  the  stone  from  the  l)oat.  It  >-ould  not  have  weighed  iiss  than  eight  hundred 
jiounds,  anil  how  the  wonnin  got  it  into  her  f»ail  bark  canoe  without  assistance  is  mont  than  I 
can  understand.  Tah-tah-rok.  to  whom  1  went  for  an  e.N]danation  of  the  method  pursued,  (old 
me  that  she  had  lirst  filled  her  lioat  wilii  small  brandies  of  spruce,  and  then,  choosing  a  i)art 
of  tho  bank  where  the  boat's  rail  would  be  on  a  level  with  the  ground,  had  rolled  the  stone 
over  on  to  the  pliant  boughs,  and  so  avoided  lifting  it  at  all.  Afterwaids  the  sjirnce  branches 
weri'  removed  separately  and  the  stone  .-illowed  to  gradually  sink  to  its  iirojiei'  jjosition  in  the 
bottom  of  the  boat.  The  fact  that  a  body  weighs  less  when  submerged  is  as  familiar  to  these 
untutored  children  of  r^ature  as  to  the  most  learned  jirofessor  of  natural  ]ihilosophy. 

So  much  has  been  written  of  the.se  people  which  gives  the  impression  that  they  are  slug- 
gish in  ilis|)osition  and  intellectually  inferior  that  I  feel  a  natural  hesitancy  in  advancing 
opinions  (formed,  it  is  true,  by  a  short  ex|K!rience)  whiidi  would  seem  to  refute  the  tales  of 
their  stupidity.  The  fact  remains,  howevei-,  that  in  all  my  dealings  with  the  natives  of  this 
region,  emiiracintr  those  from  Cape  Prince  of  Wales  to  Point  Hope,  ■and  including  the  NoJitak, 
Kowak,  ami  Selawik  tribes,  I  iiave  never  yet  seen  a  more  iiahtntllf/  intelligent  set  of  men. 
They  seem  remarkably  quick  to  adajit  tiieniseives  to  the  wants  and  luibits  of  civilized  men; 
and  if  progress  is  the  result  of  intelligence  there  .seems  to  be  no  good  reason  why  certain  civil- 
izing insti'uction  shoulil  not  be  given  them  in  order  tliid  theii'  condition  might  be  iiiq)roved 
and  the  hard  struggle  for  existence  robbed  of  some  of  its  terroi's. 

As  a  genera.l  rule  (I  might  almost  call  it  an  univei'siil  one),  the  initives  are  honest,  good- 
natured,  and  alw.iys  hospitable,  and  if  a1  times  they  jirove  mendacious,  it  would  s"em  charita- 
ble to  belie'e  fliati  this  dellection  from  the  moral  code  is  caused  l)y  a  desire  to  make  it  j)leasant 
for  the  traveler  temi)orarily  made  their  guest.  What  these  ^leople  need,  however,  is  a  little 
instruction  on  the  benefits  of  habits  of  cleanliness.  At  present  some  of  their  customs  are  ili.s- 
gusting  beyond  description;  liut  they  are  easily  induced  to  change  their  habits  of  life  when  it 
is  known  that  they  are  the  source  of  annoyance  to  the  white  man.  During  the  time  I  wa« 
absent  from  the  launch  I  was  necessarily  thrown  in  very  dose  contact  with  the  Indians,  and  I 
found  it  oidy  necessary  to  nu'iition  any  of  their  habits  as  being  objectionable  to  have  it  imnnv 
diately  dropped.  It  was  my  custom,  in  order  to  avoid  the  vernun  (with  which  they  are  liber- 
{lUy  sui)])lied),  to  take  a  hath  every  uiglit  and  make  a  complete  change  in  uiy  uudcrclothing. 
H.  Ex.  15J 7 


60  CRUISE  OF  THE  STEAM KK  t'OKVVIN. 

The  natives  iioticcil  lliis.  jiiul  cxpn'sscil  siirpriso  tluit  .iCtcr  lu'inj,' wi't  all  tlay  I  should  <k>lil>- 
('i'ut('l)' K"  ill'"  •!'('  cnld  water  iiisleiul  of  j^eltiii^-  tlinioiiKlily  wfirni  and  dry  l)et'oro  goii.f;  to 
sleep.  Hut  wlien  Tali-tali-rok  uxphviiieil  to  tlieni  my  reasons  tliey  immediately  l)i'j,'an  to  jnd- 
tate  my  jD'aeliee,  and  tlie  (dianj^e  in  tlieii'  appearance  was  truly  most  astoniHliin^  as  w.'ll  as 
j;ral  ilyiMj;  dnrin^  11  le  slioi  t  time  we  were  toi;etlier. 

When  I  lirst  8iiw  Tuli-tah-inU,  in  the  summer  of  lJss-1.  iu'  wasu  j;ood  specimen  ot'  the  aver- 
aye  Es(|nimau.\  huntei',  l)ut  in  cnntaet  with  white  men  he  rapidly  improved,  and  when  we 
parted  a  mure  respeclalile  or  cleaner  looUinj;  man  c()idd  not  lie  ^^elected  trom  an  ordinary  crowd 
of  inlellij;ent  workinf^men  in  any  city  of  the  United  States.  A  pi'e.sent  of  a  half-d<ii2cn  towels 
and  a  har  of  soa|)  seeme<l  to  please  liini  more  than  anything  else  1  •{ave  him. 

ilnsl  <)|»posite  our  camping  place  a  small  sti'eam  runs  into  the  Kowak  frnm  the  soutli.  and 
from  the  hijj;h  hanks  of  the  river  we  coidtl  see  it  was  the  outlet  of  several  small  lakes  some 
three  or  four  ndles  inland.  Mr.  Towu.send  and  I  look  our  k"'"<  '^'"''  K'"ttiuj;  into  our  small 
hirch-hafk  canoes,  strui'k  out  for  these  lakes  to  hunt  for  ducks,  which  the  old  women  assui'ed 
us  were  ahundant  in  that  direction.  V\'e  had  heconie  <pdte  e.spei't  in  haiidlin)^'  the  rather 
■■  ticklish  "  caades  hy  this  time,  and  we  soon  ci)vei'e(|  t he  (lista,n<-(^  lietween  the  river  and  the 
lakes.  Mere  we  found  al)unflant  sport,  ami  after  securing-' a  dnzeii  delicious  little  widgeons 
and  teal  we  staffed  on  our  way  hack  tucaniit.  Half  way  down  the  narrow  stream  which  led 
to  the  river  we  suddenly  came  upon  a  thick  n{  jfeese.  ,'ind  as  lliey  i^ot  up  we  lired  into  them. 
<  )ne  or  two  Were  killed  at  the  first  shot  and  the  tlnck  liew  oil' at  I'l^ht  anj^les  to  <iur  coui'se.  1 
incautiiiusly  lired  ;inain,  this  time  '•  liroadside  on."  and  in  a.  mnnu'nt  fnuiid  myself  stru^'^linK' 
in  till'  widei' with  my  hoat  upset  and  ^-aine  scattered  iiver  the  surface  of  the  sticam  in  the 
wildest  (imfusidii.  With  Mr.  Townsend's  help,  hnwcNcr.  I  was  eiiahled  li>  extricate  jn,\.'-clf 
ficiin   my  unplciisant  position  with  no  injury  except  a  rather  cold  ducking'. 

The  incident  is  relatecl  to  il'-istrate  the  character  of  the  small  "  one  mau"ciinoes  wliich 
,\re  in  ((imniiin  use  on  the  Kowak.  No  more  graceful  tiling  in  tiie  way  of  water  craft  can  pos- 
silily  lie  imagined  thiin  these  canoes.  Thi'V  arc  from  ei;^ht  to  ten  feet  lonfj;.  and  from  twelve 
to  lifteen  inches  wide  on  the  watei'  line.  The  stem  and  stern  pieces  nvv  lonu;.  and  so  fashioned 
.•is  to  form,  with  tln^  rail,  a,  fj;raceful  curve.  ;;i\in,i;  l<i  the  whole  a  linisli  whi(di  would  delight 
the  eye  of  t  he  most  exact  injj;' canoeist.  The  thin  liirch  hark  is  fastene(|  to  t  he  frame  hy  nu'ans 
of  strips  of  willow  liark  in  the  most  iiifjeuious  maimer,  and  the  seams  are  made  ti>(;ht  hy  ndi- 
liinj,'  them  with  nielteil  spruce  j;um.  On  the  lower  river  t  liese  canoes  are  never  made,  and  liut 
seldoni  seen,  as  liirch  liark  is  not  to  he  olitaiued,  and  the  natives  use  the  cijuunou  kyack  or 
seai-skiu  canoe,  common  alonn'  the  sea-coast. 

The  river  at  this  point  is  exceedini^ly  tortuous  and  altojj;efher  uinnterestin;;.  Its  course 
is  thi'oU!i;li  the  low  tundra  lands,  whicli  ai'e  liai'e  <if  trees  except  on  the  immediate  river  hank, 
and  as  the  month  of  t!ie  river  is  ajijiroached  even  these  <lisap]ieai'  and  only  rank  K'nss  and 
stunte(l  willows  appear.  On  the  moi'uint;;  of  Auj^ust  •.'•.',  after  yet  liiij,''  astronomical  ohser  vat  ions 
us  usual,  we  lia.'le  yood-liye  to  our  Indian  friends  of  the  village  oppositi'  and  steamed  away  down 
stream. 

Dnriny  I  he  day  we  ohserved  many  hair  seal  in  the  ri\ cr.  and  I  am  inclined  to  helieve  tlu>y 
come  u]i  stream  to  .avoid  their  enemy,  the  narwhale,  which  ireiiuent  the  waters  of  Kotzehue 
Soiuid.  At  ."•  o'clock  we  passed  out  from  the  Kowak  liy  its  westernmost  mouth,  and  our  eyes, 
yi'own  t  ired  of  the  monotonous  shores,  wei'eylailili'ned  hy  the  siyht  of  tlu'  crisp,  sjiarkliny  waves 
of  llolham  inlet. 

A  hi'isk  eastei'ly  wind  was  hlowiny  and  I  nnnle  haste  to  I'eacli  the  |»rotection  which  a.  sand- 
spit  lyiny  at  the  eutran<-e  to  Selawik  Lake  alt'orded.  and  there  we  camped  foi'  tlu'  niyht.  The 
wind  rapidly  increased  and  shifted  to  tho  soutlicast,  so  that  a  heavy  sea  soon  hegan  running  in 
the  lake  and  inlet.  The  surf  heat  heavily  on  the  other  side  of  our  |irotectinn'  sand-spit,  hut 
within  our  little  hasin  the  water  was  undistui'hed. 

A  i)arty  of  natives  on  their  way  to  their  wintei-  honu's  on  the  Selawik  River  encamped 
near  our  camp,  aiul  from  them  T  learned  that  all  of  the  Indians  hail  deserted  the  rendezvous  at 
H<jtham  Inlet  and  wuiv  now  on  their  way  home;   Mr.   ^IcLem-gan  had    returned    from  his 


H.  E»    I5j,49  , 


CRU  IS  K  ( >  F  Tl  I E  STEAM  Ell  C'(  )UW  IN.  51 

f«X|»lt>ralii)ii  ul'  tlio  NuiUaU.  tuid  that  llw  (  nririii  liad  licni  seen  oil  Cape  .Jlussoiii  a  few  duya 
lii'lon',  nil  luT  way  imrdi,  iiml  lia<l  Icl't  wonl  she  wduM  iituni  Ity  Si'iitciuli.'i'  I. 

or  our  siihscijiii'iit  u|H'r,ilinii.s  llicii'  is  little  of  iittfit'sl  to  i-,'la(c.  Wf  sloi)}>e(l  at  this  place 
loitj^  ciioLijfli  to  p't  a  si'l  ol'  olisi'fvalioiis.  Haviii;;  ^ni  llic  laiuu'li  in  sailing  trim  again,  we  pro- 
ceeded leisurely  down  Die  inlet,  sound  in  j,'  alon^t  lie  shores  and  exandnin^  tlieditt'erent  eiitranees 
to  the  Kowak,  of  wliieli  we  noted  tilteen,  and  on  Au^nist  ".'l  we  reuched  a  saiid-spit  twelve 
nules  from  tlieeiitraneelo  ilolliiini  Inlet,  upon  wliicli  Lieutenant  Stoney  had  jdai  i  d  lilssiij)j)lies, 
ai\<l  there  found  the  A^'.c/f/o/c/-.  whieh  had  retmin'd  from  U[t  the  river  for  another  load,  with 
LieiittMiani  Stoney  in  comnnind.  Here  also  was  Mr.  Mei,eiiej^aii,  who  had  heen  anxiously 
awaitini^the  f '(>/•;»•/«,  and  came  this  far  to  meet  me  on  my  Wiiy  down  the  inlet.  Ahout  one. 
hundred  and  seventy-li vi^  Indians  lieloimini;  to  the  Kowak  and  S(>lawik  River  region  iir.d 
encamped  on  the  spit  on  their  way  home  from  the  remlezvous.  The  howling  of  some  fifty  or 
seventy-live  im|iatient  do^s  made  nij^ht  hid(nns;  hnl  the  many  tires  alon>^  the  heaeh.  the 
hune  hoats  turned  o\-er  so  .-is  to  form  tents,  .and  the  crowds  of  Indians  arounil  the  (ires,  foi  mcd 
a  scene  at  onci?  picluresijue  ami  novel. 

Finally,  on  Auj^nst  'i."*.  we  purled  conipany  with  Lieutennnt  Stonoy'w  party,  after  trunr- 
ferriiii^  to  him  several  smid:  Mrlirlesof  outlit  which  wimld  lie  of  .service  to  him,  and  our  ex]i!- 
dition  no\'-  turned  toward  llolii;nn  Inlet  and  Kot/el>ue  Sound.  We  arrive<l  satVly  at  (he  ren- 
dezvous and  took  up  our  old  ([uai'ters  in  the  little  layooii  called  hy  me  Hefn^e  Lagoon,  and. 
in  commemoration  of  the  nieeliuH'  "I'  .McLeneujan's  and  my  jKirty,  we  called  the  I'am))  Keunimi. 

A  few  natives  yet  I'cmaineil  at  the  rendezvous,  ami  were  soon  on  harid  to  welconu'  us. 
One  old  fellow  no  doubt  hail  heen  a  (dose  ohserscr  of  (lie  white  men.  for  he  hroii^ht  with  him 
and  couiplai'f'ntly  oHered  for  oni'  delectation  .i  copy  of  llari)er's  Weekly  sonu'  twenty  years 
old.  with  the  letpiesl  thai  al'tei'  reading?  it  w  would  return  it.  Soiiie  one  had  fjivon  this  old 
fellow  ii  hiijh  silk  hat.  and  the  solieitnde  with  which  he  stowc<l  it  away  under  the  coverinj;  of 
his  lioat  on  the  sli;;litest  appearance  of  a  shower  was  truly  aniusin>j;. 

While  here  We  had  .an  opportunity  of  witnessing  a  most  singiil.ar  jx'rformance.  much 
resenililing  a  spiritualistic  si'iincc.  The  wife  of  one  of  the  mitives.  a  ))le;ir-eye(l  old  hag  sixty 
or  sixty-live  yenrs  old.  was  oliservc(l  to  droji  suddenly  on  the  gidund.  and  when  wi'  ran  nji  io 
ascertain  thiM'.ause  she  was  to;dl  ap|iearances  in  a,  dead  laint.  Her  lips  wei-e  blue  and  (eelli 
.set  hard  togetlu'C.  while  her  Inlmred  lirejithing  produced  a  light  frolli  upon  hei-  lips.  T!ie  eyes 
Were  (dosed,  imt  when  I  o[ieued  them  the  pujiils  were  muidi  eimtracted.  and  the  whole  appear- 
ance of  the  eye  was  ex])vessionless.  Her  hushand  immediat(dy  ran  In  her.  and  passing  a  stoat 
deer-skin  tlnmg  or  strap  arcaiiid  her  head.  securi>d  it  to  the  end  of  a  stout  stall' alxmt  six  feet  in 
length.  He  then  sat  down  neai-  the  wonnin"s  head,  and  bi'ought  the  stall'  aci'oss  his  thighs  in 
such  a  way  as  to  make  it  a  level'  of  the  lirst  (da.ss.  Then  ho  Ixfgan  in  a  chaiding  sort  of  tone 
to  speak  (o  sonn-  s[iirit  of  the  dead  and  to  ask  (juestions  concerning  his  ]a'obabl(>  success  (hiring 
the  jipproaching  hunting  season.  When  a  (piestion  was  to  be  answered,  he  paused  and  tried 
to  lift  the  head  of  the  Woman  fi'oni  the  groui'd.  H'  he  siicceeded  in  accom|ilishing  this  feat, 
the  answer  was  c(jnstn\ed  to  be  //cs.  and  if  not.  the  contrary  was  to  he  undc.'rstood  as  the  answt  l. 
This  performance  went  on  for  soine  time,  and  suidi  was  the  ft>rce  used  by  the  man  to  lift  the 
poor  creatni'e's  head  that  at  times  J  t'eiired  her  nc'k  would  be  broken. 

Dui'ing  tlu^  .i(''(nifc.  if  we  in.iy  so  cill  it.  the  nwin  had  his  I'itle  and  hunting-knife  brought 
and  jdaced  near  by.  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  theii-  good  oi'  bad  (pialities.  When  all 
had  been  .-iskiMl  jirid  aiiswereil.  the  thong  w;is  removed  from  the  woman's  head,  and,  with  a  few 
piisses  exactly  similar  to  those  eomnioidy  used  by  mind  readers,  the  woman  was  restoreil  to 
consciousness.  For  a.  wdiih^  she  seemed  da/.e<l  and  unsteady,  but  soon  connnenced  to  narrate 
what  she  had  seen  while  in  the  trance.  She  i  laimeil  to  have  been  far  away  in  the  deer  country, 
nnd  to  hav(!  se(>n  relati\-es  und  friends  of  those  )iresent.  wdio  lis1ene(l  with  rapt  attention,  and 
with  the  ai>j)earance  of  |«eifecl  conlidence  in  her  ver.ieity.  to  the  messages  and  news  which  she 
brought  to  them. 

Witliont  attempting  to  explain  this  curious  exhibition  of  second  .sight,  I  leave  it  for 


52  CRUISIO  OK  TIIK  STKAMER  COItWIN. 

othors  to  ai';{ii<s  simply  HtaUiiK.  I'.v  wiiy  of  tcstiiiiDiiy,  tlmi  (o  me  tln^  woniiiii  st^mntMl  wiiictirt^  iih 
slit)  wiis  luoMt  wrtiiinly  uiiconscidiis  diuiiij^  tlio  Ki"«'iit<^i'  portiuii.  if  not  all,  of  tlio  nennce. 

On  tlic  •■iiitli  of  Au>;n.st  the  Conciii  was  rciiortcd  oil"  Capo  Blossuni,  and  wo  innnndiatoly 
liroivii  t-anip  antl  stcanii'd  owl  1o  join  iii'r. 

Tlio  Hca  was  snntotli,  and  we  crossed  tlm  bar  safely  and  reaclicd  Cape  Blossom  about  noon; 
hut  the  ('(iririii  had  not  stopped,  and  we  were  ronipelled  to  camp  a>;ain  and  await  ln>r  retufn, 
which  I  conlidently  hoped  would  he  next  day.  She  had  doul  tl  ss  rin;  in,  aiiv!  i^ei'ing  uolidn;; 
of  us  had  pidceeded  In  Cliai.iisso  Island  for  a  harlior  ilurin>^  the  nif^lit. 

This  sujiposit ion  proved  correct,  for  next  morning  at  (!.;(()  ^he  was  ohservi^d  steaming  in 
toward  Cape  Blossom  from  the  south,  and  at  H.;i(i  we  broke  our  last  camp,  and  the  sea  bein^ 
smooth  we  soon  were  all  safely  on  board  of  the  (Uinriti  once  more.  I  immediately  made  a 
short  report  of  my  exjilorations  to  Captain  Healy;  and  so  ended  the  second  expedition  for  the 
exi»loratiou  of  the  Kowak  River,  conducted  undc^r  the  direction  of  tlm  Revenue  Marine  Service. 

Respectfully  snbndtted. 

JOHN  V.  (UNTWELL. 
Third  Ijiriilciiinil.  Hi-rcinic  Murine, 

III  ilKiri/f  of  c.i'iH'ilil  iim. 


H.  Ri.  1J1,  49  I 


EXPLORATION  OF  THE  iNOATAK  RIVKR,  ALASKA. 


By  S.  B.  M.  T^Ti]]SrECrA]Sr. 


53 


I.KTTKII  orTHANSMITTAI.. 


V.  S.  Hkvknik  Stkamku  Kish. 
.SV«//  Fniiirixit),  Cal..  Ihii-iiihcr  M.  issri. 
SiH:  \n  (.lM.,lioiic..  I,,  yc.ir  onl.T  .lalr.l  .luly  I.  Ihm:,.  ,liivc(iiiK  nu-  I(m'X|.I..it  llic  Nniiluk 
River.  Aliisk'ii,  I  liiivc  the  lioimi'  Id  siitoiiit  the  Idilinviiij;  rc|iipri. 

Ill  liii'  |.r..|iiriil(.;i  uf  (his  work  I  lia\-.'  ImIhuimI  iiii.|,.r  iiKiu.v  .li.sjKlv)m(;iK<'s.  Iinviii-  1 n  on 

iictiv.'  (Inly  (Inriii-  tlir  ^nsdcr  iH.rliuM  of  Ihr  (iiiic.  iind  willioiit  uiiy  racllifi.-H  I'or^oin^r  ||„, 
wirk  |ir()|)rrl.v.  In  view  of  lli.'  Iinrrir.l  m.-mncr  wilh  wliici,  lli,.  work  wiis  iMvpiir...!,  luiviiiK 
Uccii  ordt-rt'l  to,M..,i  hcrorc  its  final  coniiilclion.  I  lriiM(  llinl  .In.' consi.lrralion  will  he  shown.  I 
liiiv.'  .Mily  1o  t'xjdvss  my  sinnTc  lliiinkH  for  kind  ussistimcc  in  lln'  work  ..f  revision. 

Tnisfinj,'  that  the  r.isiilts  of  tl xpiMlifjon  will  iiic.l  yonr  ai>|iroviil. 

I  ifinuiii,  very  r<'H|ii'<'tfully.  your  olioilicnt  .servant, 

H.  H.   Mcf.KNKUAN. 
Srrttiiil  Assinhiiil  I'hitiiiifrr.  ('.  S    /,'    ,1/ 

Ctipt.    M,    A.    IlKAI.V. 

('i>iniiiiin<lin<i  Re  re  II II  !•  SI  ct  nil  I' r  Conn' II,  Sail  Fniiirisio.  Ciil. 


r)6 


EXPLOKATION  OP  TIIK  NOATAK  inVER.  ALASKA. 


insroitiiM.. 


Cuii<'<>niiii>{  a  I'l'^inii  Huunkiiowii  In  tlu' wnilil  unDic  iiilcriiirnf  Arctic  A  liiMkii.  Ilirrci"  littlx 
to  Miy  fi'oni  II  liiHiurintI  |M>int  <>t'  vii>sv.  Iiiii.:niiirli  ivm  tlit*  liintiiry  <<(  iiiiy  t°*'Ki<>ii  diid'H  I'miii  tlii> 
t'lvi'lit'Ht  i'\|t|(ii'uliiin  iir  lilt' Miiiiii'.  tliiil  III'  Niii'llirr'n  AIn.skii  iiiiiy  li<<  sitiil  t<i  \»>  in  IIh  inl'micy.  All 
tliiil  |niitiiiii  III  lilt'  'I'l'iiiliiry  lyin^  mutli  nl'  IIm'  ,\rttif  circle,  <'iiin|ii'isiii«;,  in  iuuihI  iiimilifiM, 
lilKitit  iiiii'  liuiiilit'il  Hiiil  Iwi'iity-livK  tliniiHtiiiil  si|iii»ri'  iiiilt'M,  li.tN  Ihmmi  ii  vhsI  Ki'i>Ki''t|iliii'Hl  lilniik, 
the  iiiii|iN  III'  wiiirli  r'l'^iiiii  lit'x  i'i>lit>vt>i|  mily  hy  viixii<<  liiii's  i-t<pr(m«iiitiuK  t'lc  Hii|ip<isi'i|  riviTH  nC 
till'  I'litiiilry. 

Till'  lew  wiilfiM  wlii>  ri'Vi'it  Id  tin- sul>.jri'<  Ki-iii'iiilly  icmiviii  mIIi'iiI  (•uiict'niiiin  il.nriit  iiinMt 
<>tr«>t'  (iiily  II  t'dW  c'mjt'ctiii'i'N  iK^iiriliiiK  \\h  |iriiliuli|f  luitiiri'  iiml  t'xtciil. 

Pi'lnilV,  wliuHi'  i'xliiins1ivi<  n'pnrl  mi  tin' "  l'ii|iiiliiliuii  iitiil  Ili'sinn'cfH  nl"  AluMku"  is  niir 
liitt'st  iiiitliiii'ily,  ilisiiiiMsi's  till'  Hiiliji'i'l  ill  ii  I'i'W  wnnls.  uimI.  mhm'  Imi'i'  iiii'iiliuii  nl'  llif  liirl  lliiti 
tilt'  Kiiwiik  Hiiil  Nniltuk  Kivi'CH  \vi'rt«  kimwii  to  «'xi«t.  In<  wiys  iiutliiiiK  on  tin-  siiliji'i't. 

'i'lic  I'urlii'Ml  cxiiliiiiiliiiii  ill  Ni'i'tliwi'Mtcrii  AlaMkimr  wliirli  Wf  Iuim-  uii_\  rrrnid  diiti's  I'mni 
till'  yi'iir  Isl.'i;  III  Hull  tiiiH'  Lii'iitniinil  Ki>l/.i'lnii',  of  tlic  Itnssiiin  iiiivy.  |ii'in'tiiilt'il  lln'  ItfriiiK 
Sti'ivitH,  and  <'X)iloii'<l  tlii'  Hniiiid  wliiili  Ik'iu'h  Imh  iihiih',  tn^ctln'r  with  all  tlii'  ciiiist  ri'Kioii  um 
far  as  ('a|it'  Li.sliiiriic.  AI'tiT  liis  tiiiu'  wi-  liiwti  no  Inrtlii-r  rt'cord  until  tlic  voyun*'  of  ('a|itii!n 
Ki't'i'licy,  |{.  N.,  vvlio  ('X|iliiii'd  lln'  I'lilirti  An-fii-  i'oiihI  in  tlif  ynir  IN'.'.').  Tlii' Niirvt'y.s  mid  rliartH 
iniidi'  liy  lliis  nnictT  wi-ro  vrry  rompli'tn  and  ri'inivin  IfudinK  iinllinritifs  ivt  tlic  |ircst'nt  day. 
I't'ti'olV  Ih  iinaci'diintulily  Nilciit  ri'icardiii><  llic  woi-k  of  lliis  raiiioiis  nuviKiitnr.  ns  well  asotlicrH 
jironiincntly  idi'iitilicd  with  the  <'oiintry.  ami  apimicntly  favors  the  work  of  hJH  own  country- 
men  only. 

.  AIiIioiikIi  Hcccliey  explored  .'11111  named  ilotham  Inlet,  it  does  not  uppear  t lint  hcdiscovered 
either  of  the  larj^e  riverw  liowin^c  into  it;  iit  leiixl.,  he  iimke.s  no  tneiitioii  of  the  fact  in  his  report. 
Since  the  time  of  these  early  explorers  the  rej^ion  has  lieeii  visited  Ity  many  ailventiirous 
whalemen  ami  others,  and  the  entire  coast,  as  far  as  the  nioiilh  of  the  Mackeii/.ie  UImt,  \h 
known  to  many  of  them.  No  jiortioii  of  that  inhospitahle  coast  is  ho  little  known  iih  K<it/,(diiio 
Sound;  the  vast  slmals  which  mark  lli;it  lioily  of  water,  to^jelher  wilh  the  lack  of  commercial 
incentive,  has  tnriied  the  tide  of  eiittrprise  in  aiiolhi'V  direilinn  and  comparatively  few  whale- 
men are  acijiiainted  with  the  rcjcioii. 

The  first  attempt  to  exploj-e  tlie  interior  of  tliat  country  ilates  from  the  year  iss:!.  UnriiiK 
the  summer  of  that  year  Lieut.  (1.  M.  Stoiiey,  [>.  S.  N.,  then  on  hoard  the  Coiiriii.  on  special 
duty  from  the  Navy  Departmeiil.  was  dispatched  to  the  head  of  Hothani  inlet  in  a  lioat 
manned  from  tht^  cutter.  After  an  ahsence  of  ten  days  he  returned  with  the  informatinn  that 
a  larK"  river,  known  iw  tlie  Kowak.  was  dischari;ed  intotlie  head  of  the  estuary. 

Althou>;h  the  existence  of  this  river  was  uiidoiilitedly  known  heforc  Stoney's  visit,  there  is 
no  record  of  any  attempt  at  exploration  jirevioiis  to  Ids  own.  and  the  information  he  furnished 
con('ornin>;  the  lu'ohahle  ext^'nt  of  the  viviW  wiu«  the  first  autlientic  account  ever  driven. 

In  the  followiiif^  year  an  expedition  nmh'!'  the  command  of  Lieut.  J.  ('.  Cantwell.  and  to 

which  the  writer  was  attached,  was  ilispatclied  from  the  Corin'u  to  exjilore  the  same  river. 

After  an  nbHcnco  of  si.x  weekr.  tlie  paity  returned,  liavinj^  penetrated  tlie  region  about  thrp«^ 

hundred  n»ih>s.     Lieiitenant  Stoney  also  explored  the  river  tlm  sanio  distanco.     Tlie  acoounts 

H.  Ex.  IQ3 ti  57 


58  CRUISK  OF  THK  STKAMKlt  I'OinVIN. 

fiiraishtxJ  by  tht>H«'  fxpcditions  (•(iii<'«>niiiiK  tlm  ^('(t^riniliy  and  lo|«ij^rii|iliy  of  llH'cuuntiy  wcrn 
tilt'  first  nvor  K'vi'ii.  iiml  willi  IIh'si'  cxiicililions  wiis  iiiuuKurntcd  morn  cxtciidi'd  work  in  the 
following  year. 

'rinTc  WHS  HiiotlitT  river,  liuwcvcr,  known  in  the  nutivt'  lonj^uc  as  the  Noiitak,  disidiaixin^ 
into  till-  fstiiary  ulioiit  lliiily  miles  iiorlli  of  <lui  Kowak,  and  wliiili  srcnied  t^i  luivc  ('scapi'd 
notice.  Altlioiiirh  this  river  is  tiKured  va>^iu>iy  upon  the  latest  maps  of  Alaska,  it>  was  known 
only  from  native  aeeonnts,  for  there  is  no  reconlof  its  ever  havini;  lieen  visited  liy  wiiite  nu'n. 

Tile  traders  of  the  Yukon  lliver,  whose  knowledge  of  the  country  entith's  them  to  lieliof. 
informed  the  writer  that  they  knew  nothinj^concerniuK  it.  Indians  in  their  employ.  Iiowmcr. 
had  tradi'd  with  a  trihe  livinx  on  a  northern  rivor.  whicli.  they  asserted,  mijtht  have  been  llie 
Noiltak,  hut  aside  from  this  statement  nothing  could  he  learned  concerning  it. 

These  facts  are  stated  to  indicate  how  utterly  iilank  was  that  vast  region  evi'U  to  those  hesl 
informed  n,>oii  tlu;  siihj(>(*t,  and  may  convey  a  slight  idea  of  ilu>doiilit.san(l  un.xioties  attending 
the  Work  of  exploration. 

(n:<)<}KM'lll(.\l,. 

Before  entering  upon  a  detailed  desciiption  of  the  Noiltak  Kiver  and  the  tei-ritory  through 
which  it  tlowH,  it  is  tlioiight  that  a  brief  review  of  thi>  geographical  and  topograpiucal  f»'atures 
of  the  country  wouhl  alVord  a  clearei'  insight  into  the  snbject. 

As  we  approach  Kot/ebm'  Sound  fi'oni  the  ilii'ection  of  the  Heriiig  Straits,  a  long  line  of 
dark  mountains  gradually  rises  on  the  eastern  hori/.on  and  .seemingly  I'S tends  to  the  \  cry  shores 
of  the  sea.  A  closei'  approach,  however,  reveals  the  fact  that  they  arc  some  distance  iidand 
and  are  separated  from  the  sea  by  a  |>lain  three  or  four  miles  in  wiilth. 

On  tln>  charts  of  the  region  these  well-known  landnnu-ksare  known  as  the  Mnlgrave  Mills, 
and  through  which  the  Noiltak  Hows  immeiliately  before  discharging  into  the  estuary.  ( )pen- 
ing  inland  from  Kot/ehuc  Sound  and  connected  by  a  neck  alioul  three  miles  in  widi  h  is  a  body 
of  water  known  as  Hotham  Inlet,  into  which  the  Kowak  and  Noiltak  |{ivers  are  dis(dmrgcd. 
Kor  the  most  part  the  estuary  is  extrenu'ly  sludlow,  a  IViiture  due  to  tin-  vast  (|uaiitities  of 
alluvial  matter  ileposited  there  by  the  rivers. 

As  ali'eady  stated,  the  region  imme(liately  above  the  mouth  of  the  Noiltak  is  mountainous, 
a  featui-t<  shared  liy  no  other  river  in  Noi'lhei'U  Alaska.  Ueforc  entering  the  inlet  the  ri\ei 
divides  in  a  V-shaped  delta,  the  arms  of  which  are  about  e<|nal  in  volume.  Uniting  abo\c 
the  Noiltak  .'ilniost  iiiimediately  enters  the  liighhinds  of  the  coast  range;  after  p;issing  Ihi'ougii 
it  trends  in  a  northerly  direction  and  enters  a  tint  section  of  territory,  throughout  which  it  is 
divided  intoama/.eof  ciiannels.  The  basin  is  bounded  (Ui  either  side  by  parallel  ranges  of 
liills.  aiioiit  tell  miles  distant,  which,  as  we  proceed,  become  higher,  gradually  iissiiuiing  the 
shape  and  size  of  moiinlains.  This  section  of  the  river  is  about  one  hundred  miles  in  length, 
ami  is  characterized  throughout   by  .shallow  water  and  a  rapid  current.     .\  slight  growth  of 

timber nsisling  chietly  of  spru/e  and  Cottonwood,  is  found  along  the  inimediate  bjinks  of 

the  river. 

As  we  apiuoacli  the  head  of  this  section  the  mountains  rapidly  converge  toward  the  ri\er, 
nnd  eventually  coiiline  it  to  a  channel  of  ordinary  dimensions.  The  Noiilak  now  enters  the 
third  Section  of  its  length,  namely,  the  mountain  district.  After  passing  through  ihetJraiid 
CaiTons,  which  iiiaik  the  entrance,  the  ranges  .-igaiii  ili\erge.  forming  a  be.iutifiil  \alley  from 
three  to  five  miles  in  width.  The  ranges  on  either  side  ai'e  not  c(Uitiiiuous.  but  arc  broken 
in  placw  plea.sanlly  diversifying' the  scenery.  They  have,  in  general,  an  easterly  trend,  and 
follow  the  river  for  about  one  hundred  miles. 

The  fourth,  or  upper  section,  comprises  that  jiart  of  Ihe  river  lying  cm  tho  table-lands  of 
the  interior,  and  exceeds  in  lengtii  that  of  all  Ihe  lower  sections  combined.  As  may  be  interred 
from  the  nani(>,  this  region  consists  of  an  elevated  plateau,  rolling  occasionally  into  hills  and 
then  stretching  away  into  vast  ti'actsof  moorland. 

The  river  is  feil  liere  by  a  number  of  lakes,  none  of  which,  lioweA'or,  are  largo  or  inipor- 
taiit.  There  is  no  timbei-yf  any  description  in  the  region,  and  the  llora  is  limited  to  the  hardier 
varieties  uf  plant  life. 


II.  Kx.  151    4<)   ■ 


<ji,t»?*%";*i*'i*'^'.^,;j:-,. 


,i;  ,4 '  'Alt.'  ■'/„' 


K^ 


W    Hi  ''■  Wk  I  ■  'S  ' 


-^ijg^g^ 


r^-, 


-itoem 


M05»tNO.CU.N.X 


liSyl   IMt)  lUDAKKAS. 


THRKIillOI.KU  HIDAkKA. 


II.  V.\    lii,  19  I 


i 


4 


-inu"- 


i 


•i,'-^'/'>' 


"1 


niDAKKA,  I'ORT  (  I.ARKNCIv 


BP?S/-;" 


:!K*7K*i«!(>l«W 


HIUAKKAII,  IIOTIIAM  INLET. 


CRUISE  OF  THE  STEAMER  CORWIN.  59 

Ti  would  l)tMlifticul1  (()  i>ii'tiin>;;riipliicully  11m(  iiilixspilaUIt'couiilry,  n  land  tliiit  indicuched 
witli  the  riiiiiM  of  siiiimicr  jiimI  hiii'lccl  in  the  snows  of  winter.  Ncur  llif  )n')Mi(|nHi'ti'rs  tlu-  river 
dividoH  into  a  nninln'r  of  liranclics.  isiclt  of  wliiih  lias  its  kouith  iu  n  wniill  lakt*. 

Owiu}^  to  tile  iiccnliui'  natni'c  of  tlic  country  llic  river  is  sulsject  to  sudden  and  jjfrcat 
cliani^cs  in  volume,  i^'ioods  are  of  eonnuou  occurrenn.';  tlie  iii!i!ieii;>e  raiufitl!  of  tlie  Kuuiiufr 
frnpieutly  causes  the  river  to  overflow  its  lianks  and  inundate  tlie  surrouudiuK  couuti'y. 

Tile  Noiltiik"  is  not  navipiMe  for  otlier  tliau  native  canoes;  tlie  many  raiii<ls,  c(mibiued  with, 
the  shallow  water  and  rapid  cniTeut,  reuderw  navij^'alion  wi|-li  laix*'!'  Ixiats  (|uite  out  of  the 
question. 

In  ref^ard  to  the  possibility  of  it  portage  fi'oui  the  headwaters  of  tho  Noiitak  to  t.liose  of  the 
Colville  Rivei,  careful  iuijuiry  among  the  natives  failed  ti>  elicit  auy  infornuition  concerning 
it.  luileed,  if  such  does  exist,  it  is  ])roi)ahly  too  long  and  ditlicnlt  to  accomplish  under  oidinary 
circumstances.  It  is  almost  impossii)le  to  travel  over  the  tundra  laiids  <luring  the  summer  >ea- 
son.  hut  it  is((nite  pos.sible  that  the  same  could  he  easily  accomplished  diu-iug  the  winter  hy 
sledgin;;. 

The  portage  from  the  headwaters  of  the  Noatak  to  those  of  the  Kowak.  initives  assert, 
can  be  made  in  om>  day,  a  fact  of  much  geograjdiical  interest.  It  woiihl  apjiear  from  this 
that  the  rivers  are  jiaivillel  and  drain  adjoining  valleys.  There  are.  liowevei-,  no  features  in 
common  between  therivei-s.  or  between  the  valleys  drained  by  them — a  fact  which.  c<insi(lering 
their  i»ro.\iniity,  is  very  I'emarkab'".  (hie  of  the  most  interesting  fads  dexcloped  by  a  com- 
parison is  the  distribution  of  limber.  Along  the  waters  of  the  Kowak,  spriu-e,  the  ]iredomi- 
mitiug  variety,  is  very  abundant,  and  fre(piently  attains  a  diameter  of  two  feet.  On  the 
Noiitak,  however,  it  is  ipiite  the  reverse,  and  the  timber  belt  is  confined  to  a  very  limited  poi'- 
tion  of  the  valley.  The  caiisi'  of  this  marked  dillereiice  is  possibly  owing  to  the  elevated 
nature  of  tlie  latter  rcKion,  and  possibly  also  to  some  pec\diarity  in  the  soil. 

It  is  to  be  lio|ied  that  the  Work  of  exploration  ma>'  contribute  somewhat  to  oiir  knowledge 
of  Northern  Alaska,  and  tlml  some  of  its  problems  have  been  satisfavtorily  solved. 

SWniiATIVK  AM)  nESCUII'TIVK. 

On  the  morning  of  July '4,  lKSr),the  United  States  revenue  steamer  ('oririii  ciime  to  anchor 
otV  Kotham  Inlet,  and  orders  detailing  me  to  t^Kplor^^  the  No.'ltak  Ki\er  were  recciveil  from  the 
commaniling  ollicer. 

In  anticipation  of  that  event,  all  preparations  had  been  previously  made;  the  caiioe,  stoi'es. 
instruments,  and  general  onttil,  ui-cessarily  limited,  were  brought  ou  deck  in  readiness  for 
immediati'  depai'ture.  The  i-iiioe.  or  three-hatch  bidarka,  such  as  is  used  liy  the  nati\esof  the 
Aleutian  Islands,  was  procured  at  Omialaska.  It  was  twenty-seven  feet  in  length  and  of  about 
two  feet  beam;  the  Io|j  portion  was,  with  the  exception  of  the  three  circular  hatches,  entirely 
closed. 

Soon  after  <)iii' arrival  ;it  Hothani  Inlet  a  luiniber  of  natives  boarded  the  ro/v/'///.  and. 
with  the  hope  of  obtaining  furthi'r  information  in  regard  to  the  nature  of  the  river,  some  of 
the  priucijial  men  were  as.seiiibled  in  the  pilot-house  of  (lii-  steamer.  Although  many  of  their 
number  had  traveled  u))!)!!  the  Noiitak,  it  was  exceedingly  dillicult  to  obtain  any  detinite  infor- 
mation concerning'  it.  The  river  was  declai'e<l  to  be  \ery  swift.  shal4ow.  and  <lil1icnll  to  n;ivi- 
gate,  and  that  it  would  be  imi)ossible  to  do  so  in  the  bidarka. 

Unfortunately,  the  service.)  of  an  intei'preter  could  not  be  olilained,  .although  my  own 
slight  knowleiljj;e  of  the  langr.age  was  suilicieut  for  all  jiractical  p\irposes.  I  was  thus  forced 
to  abandon  my  original  intention  of  emi»loying  natives  only,  and  having  i)eeii  granted  the 
privilege  of  selecting  a  man  from  the  crew,  I  named  Seauian  Nidsou,  who  volunteered  Uw  the 
duty,  to  accoiii])any  nu\ 

The  services  of  a  native  g\iide  cf)uld  not  be  obtained,  anil,  although  the  undertaking  was 
a  desperate  venture.  I  determined  to  go  without  native  assistance  o1  any  kind,  and  felt  that  we 
must  depeud  wholly  upon  ourselves  for  thi"  success  of  the  undertaking. 

At  I0..'i<>a.  m.  the  cutter  was  lowered,  and  our  outfit  was  pa.ssed  into  it.  After  seeing 
H.  Ex.  1511 11 


60  CRUISE  OP  THE  STKAMEU  COUWIN. 

nvt'ryfliiiiK  in  rciidincHH.  I  tf)()k  Iravf  of  tlif  ciiptiiiii  iind  odictTs.  iuhI.  iiccoiiipiiDiiMl  liy  Pilcit, 
Doii^litHM  iiiid  Siirjjf'uii  \'<'iiiHiis,  stiirtril  I'nr  tin-  iintivc  rt'iidczvoiiM  at  MoIIdiiii  lidcl.  r|i()ii 
urrival  tlu>r«  we  joini'd  Li<'iiU>iiant  Ciiiitwcirs  party,  wliicli  had  prcccdt'rl  uh  in  tlif  inorninK; 
hilt,  liaviiij?  iiotliiii^f  to  detain  lis,  wc  dctiTiniiU'd  to  start  for  tlic  river  without  deliiy.  The 
moment  of  our  liiial  |iarlinK  liad  now  conie,  and,  iiiKh'r  the  circiinistance,  kiiowinK  notliiiiKol 
I  lie  (hin>?ers  before  lis,  it  was  not  a  pleasant  one.  With  the  appeiu'anee  of  cheerfulness,  how- 
ever, we  hade  them  farewell,  and  resolntel;,  turned  the  eanoe  towards  the  north. 

Th.  ''ene  whirh  presented  itself  on  that  heaiitifiil  afternoon  was  one  to  lie  rememln'n'd. 
On  the  o])posite  shoi'i'  of  the  inlet,  directly  ahead  of  lis,  lay  the  dark  and  ^riin-lookin^  "  Hills;'' 
on  oiir  rixht  hand,  stretchin^j away  toward  the  south  and  fadini;  in  the  distance,  lay  thi^  iinnif- 
tled  waters  of  Hotliam  Inlet,  while  on  our  left,  where  the  sea  and  sky  seemed  to  meet,  lay  the 
e(|ually  i-alni  waters  of  the  Arctic  ( )cean. 

After  following  the  shore-line  f<»r  ahont  three  miles,  1  delerniined  to  land  on  the  head- 
land which  marks  the  entrancn  to  the  inlet  and  obtain  bearingH  of  the  nnaitli  of  the  Noiitak. 
According  t'>  the  view  presented  the  river  enters  the  estuary  throiiufh  two  large  branches  of 
about  eipial  size,  and  after  taking  the  lieariiig  <^f  the  outlet  on  the  extreme  right,  W(!  resumed 
our  padtlles.  hoping  to  gain  tlie  entrance  before  nightfall. 

In  its  passage  across  the  inlet  the  river  channel  is  well  d*>tined.  and  froipient  soundings 
developed  froiiitwoto  three  fat  he  mis  of  water  the  eiit  ire  distance.  ( )ii  either  side,  however, 
it  was  very  shallow,  and  at  a  low  stage  of  water  the  sand-bars  are  fre(|ueiitly  exjiosed.  At 
this  place  the  estuary  is  about  live  miles  in  width,  and  as  we  neared  the  eiilrance  to  the  I'iver. 
long  sand-spits,  covered  with  the  di'diris  v(  the  spring  freshets,  extended  fully  a  mile  on  either 
side  of  the  cliiinnel. 

The  shore  on  both  sides  is  very  low  and  marshy,  and  during  exti'eme  high  water  the 
entire  delta  is  siilunerged.  A  scattered  growth  of  Arctic  willows,  extending  to  the  water's 
edge,  and  an  occasional  spruce  were  the  only  visible  suggestions  of  timber. 

About  four  miles  above  tile  month  the  bjiiiks  becjime  somewhat  higher  and  tlie  timber 
mm-e  plentiful,  although  the  latier  was  of  ii  very  stunted  growth. 

The  day  was  now  far  spent  and  we  were  commencing  to  feel  the  fatigue  attendant  iijion 
our  new  duties.  At'.)  p.  in.  we  halted  for  the  night,  and  pitched  our  tent  upon  the  bank  of  the 
river.  Here  we  were  greeted  elVusively  by  our  old  friends,  the  mo.s(|uitoes,  that  swarmed 
i>,round  in  prodigious  numbers,  and  the  warmth  of  their  greeting  was  such  as  to  detract  con- 
siderably from  our  bodily  comfort.  Former  exjieriem-e,  however,  had  taught  nie  how  to  deal 
with  them,  so  that  we  sull'ereil  but  litlh^  from  their  .attacks. 

Thus  the  lin-'i  day  of  the  journey  pas.sed.  and.  encouraged  by  the  ]iros])ect.  we  awaited  the 
coming  daw.,  to  plunge  deeper  into  the  wilderness  and  unearth,  if  jiossible.  some  of  the  .secret.s 
which  nature  had  guarded  so  well. 

The  result  of  our  exertions  was  not  felt  until  (he  next  morning,  when  our  stitl'eneil  limbs, 
unaceust<mied  to  the  work,  were  brought  painfully  into  notice.  The  labor  of  breaking  camp 
and  prejiaring  for  the  day's  journey  was  siillicieiit  to  relax  our  muscles,  ami  we  were  soon 
vigorously  at  work  with  our  paddles. 

As  we  advanced  the  banks  became  much  higher  and  were  quite  thickly  timbered  with 
sjiruce.  After  gaining  the  head  of  tlie  didta,  the  Noiitak  is  broad  and  st.ately,  and  has  from 
three  to  live  fathoms  of  water  tlirouglioiit  the  (•liannel.  There  is  no  current  of  any  imiiortancc 
in  this  ])ortioii  of  tin-  river,  and  in  conseiiueiice  our  progri'ss  was  iiiiite  rapid. 

F<u'  the  lirst  eight  miles  of  its  length  tlii^  Noiitak  has  a  northerly  trend.  The  sui'roundiug 
country  gradually  rises  and  finally  breaks  into  the  rugged  coast  mountains.  About  noon  we 
gained  a  iioiiit  where  tlit^  riv(>r  turns  abruptly  to  the  soulhwest,  and  I  lauded  upon  a  large 
i.siand  t(j  obtain  a  meridian  idtitude.  One  of  the  most  reniarkablt>  features  of  the  .scene  is  the 
two  isolated  mountains  off  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  the  bases  of  which  are  about  three 
miles  distant.  The  ])eculiar  location  of  these  jieaks,  their  lofty  summits  and  i)rec4i)it<>us  sides, 
form  one  of  thi^  most  interesting  sights  in  the  region. 

After  obtaining  an  altitude  and  halting  sulHciently  long  to  boil  cofft^e,  we  resumed  our 
journey.     We  now  entered  the  foothills  of  the  range,  and  having  no  opposing  current,  made 


OKl'ISK  OK  THK  STKAMKH  COKWIN.  61 

vory  rapiti  lu'iulwiiy.  Alumt  four  miles  iiliovn  our  liiiltiiiK  pliu"  tlm  river  ajjiiin  luriui<l  to  tiie 
north  Hiiil  wiiM  (liviileil  by  uii  islnml  into  wliiit  iiiipeiired  to  lie  tiiice  ciiiinnels.  lIiiviriK  selected 
the  one  cm  the  extreme  riKlit  and  iiHcended  it  riilly  ii  mile,  we  found  to  our  cluiKriu  thiit  it  was 

nmrely  a  "  Idind,"  and  wen*  ohli^jeil  to  retract r  course  to  tiie  main  river  aKain.     The  stream 

on  the  left  is  tiie  main  <hannel,  the  others  heinj?  navigable  at  liiK'h  water  only.  Having  righted 
ourselves,  we  continued  without  further  adventure  <iurinK  tlu'  day. 

The  hanks  of  the  stnwim  uosv  JH'cami!  (juite  |)reciiiitous,  and  in  several  places  rocky  clilTs 
from  til'ty  to  a  hundred  feet  in  heiKht.  rose  from  the  water's  ed^e.  The  river  also  liecanu'  very 
niiu'h  uai'rower,  hut  steadily  n^taiued  the  depth  of  tiiree  fathoms.  A  slrouj^  headwind  ri-u- 
dered  our  |)ro^cress  somewhat  slow,  and  we  unfortunately  shipped  a  ipiaiitity  of  water  in  one 
of  the  hat(dms,  which,  aside  from  the  physical  discomfurt  it  caused  us,  to  a  >;reat  extent  dam- 
Hgcd  the  provisions. 

As  we  wei'e  no  longer  within  the  pale  of  civilization  and  had  no  nu'ans  of  appropriately 
observing  the  "  jjlorious  Fourth,"  wo  resumed  our  joui'nt-y  early  on  that  day.  The  .sc(Miery  of 
the  mountains,  however,  was  of  such  a  nature  as  to  arouse  our  enthusiasm,  and  we  pushed  rap- 
id'y  ahead,  eaKci'  to  see  t!ud  which  tiie  iie.xl,  turn  in  the  river  mi>;lil  I'evcal. 

A  short  distance  above  our  camp  we  passed  Itetweeu  two  very  lii^h  rocky  ciilTs,  that  on 
the  starboard  lieinj^  marked  by  a  very  peculiar  pinnacle- shaped  rock,  towerini;  hij^h  altove  its 
fellows.  Souiidiu>;s  in  this  portion  of  the  I'iver  reveale(l  from  seven  to  ei^fht  fathoms  of  water, 
which  depth,  however,  was  not  of  lon^  continuance.  At  this  point  the  Noiitak  passes  through 
the  coast  ran>j;e  and  for  .several  miles  pursues  a  very  tortuous  course.  Having  a  strong  Itreeze 
in  our  favor,  we  made  sail,  which  afVoi'ded  us  an  opjiortuuity  to  i-est  our  weary  arms. 

The  most  remarkable  feature  of  the  coast  mount ains  is  the  nuuu'rous  isolated  peaks,  men- 
tion of  which  has  alrt.'ady  been  made.  Late  in  the  afternoon  we  passed  throuKli  the  foothills 
uii  the  opposite  side  of  the  rauf^e.  The  banks  becanu'  lower  and  sonnwhat  nuirshy,  and  all 
traces  of  timbei'  were  lost.  The  river  now  assumeil  a  new  ami  unpleasant  feature,  iiiimely,  a 
very  marked  current,  which,  as  we  proceeded,  bi-came  so  swift  as  to  render  our  progress  slow 
and  laborious. 

Ma.><ses  of  Arctic  willows  were  found  on  either  bank,  and  every  feature  of  thtt  landscape 
told  us  ])laiuly  of  the  (lilli<Milties  which  we  must  soon  encounter.  Tlie  favoring  bi'ee/.e  of  the 
j>ast  few  days  showed  us  that  our  work  miKht  be  considerably  les.sened  by  enlarfi;iu>;  our  sail, 
HO  I  determinefl  to  uuike  one,  before  |)rocee(linji;  farther,  sulliciently  lai'Ke  io  meet  tht^  i-e(juire- 
ments. 

Iji  a  few  hours'  time  we  were  aj^ain  ready  to  proceed.  We  had  not  K"'""  more  than  a  niiht 
before  we  gained  a  point  where  the  current  became  vei'v  strong;  and  all  etVorts  to  stem  it  wei'e 
<jf  no  avail.  The  river  now  widened  into  a  stream  of  twice  its  or-dinary  breadth,  dotli-d  with 
islands,  and  covering;  a  vast  tract  of  flats. 

Thus  far  our  tracking;  line  had  not  been  called  into  reipiisiliou.  but  it  was  now  manifestly 
impossible  to  proceed  without  it.  Tin*  numerous  bars  and  shoals  in  the  river,  together  with 
the  strouj^  current.  I'eiidered  oui'  laboi'  e.\cee(liM;;ly  .irduous,  aud  we  wei'e  fre(|  \eiitly  oblif^ed 
to  Jumi)  overboard  to  avoid  beinj.;  swept  over  the  shoal.s.  After  couteiidinjj;  with  the.se  dilli- 
culties  for  a  few  hours  both  of  us  became  thorouij;hly  wet  and  fatifj;ued,  the  former  condition 
at  this  .staf^e  of  the  journey  beiiij;'  a  new  experience.  althoiiLjh  siibsetpieiitly  it  becaini'  an  evei'y- 
day  occurrence.  During?  the  moruinj^  1  shot  a  line  pair  of  j;eese,  which  was  an  acceptable 
acipiisition  tooiir  larder,  for  a  steady  diet  of  slap-jacks  and  bacon  had  cjuised  tlii'  inner  man 
to  clamor  for  a  cliau,i>t'. 

( )n  the  followiii;^  day  the  surrounding'  country  ^n\i'  us  no  reason  to  hope  for  a  better  con- 
dition of  affairs.  The  banks  were  very  low.  and  the  river  presented  a  perfect  mazttof  chan- 
nels, none  of  which  were  well  detined  or  apparently  of  a  permanent  character.  It  was  impo.s- 
siblo  to  struf^'^le  ai^ainst  tlit>  strong  ciii'rent  with  the  paddles,  ami  the  trafking  line  was  con- 
stantly in  n.se.  Host  of  the  channels  were  small  ami  iiisiffiiiticaiit,  many  of  them  not  having 
suHicient  water  to  float  the  bidarka.  At  this  time  the  river  was  at  a  vi'ry  hi,nli  stage.  Ijater, 
however,  many  of  these  clumuels  become  dry  and  the  No!itak  is  Cfuilined  to  a  more  delinite  ))ed. 

The  heavy  raiu  which  Imd  commeiu-ed  with  tlie  dawn  cuiitiuuod  throughout  the  day;  in 


G2  ciuiisK  OF  TfiK  stp:amki{  COKWIN. 

lulditioii  til  llii'  Miaiiy  liiiicH  wi>  Inul  lict-ii  ulili^nl  to  ,iiiiii|i  rivt'iliuiuil  it  riiiiscil  mi  Iilt1i>  liixlily 
(liHcoinfiirt  mill  iimdo  iiiir  pni^rcHH  nIow  uihI  ilislinii'tniiiiK.  At  niKliHnll  we  kucIiiiI  u  |iiiiiit 
wIk'I'c  tilt'  |iriis|M'i't  WHS  tliiiiiKliI  to  )>•'  lii'tti'i',  anil  \vi'  jiitrlit'il  i-iiiii|i  in  tlir  iiiiilst  nl'  u  ilii'mliiii^ 
Hturin.  Having  li.nl  iin  ii|i|iui'tunity  In  liiilt  I'nr  liiiirlii'iin  mi  iirriiiint  nl'  tin'  ruin,  tlir  iian^s  nl' 
liiinpT  lii';j;aii  to  lii<  t'fit;  liut  now  n  tire  was  out  of  tlin  ()iii>stiiin.  AltiT  having  K*'tt>'i>  <><>■' 
i'i|iii|ia  0' "ii'liT  slit'ltiT,  wi' rnilcavoi-i'il  III  satisfy  iiurwi'lvt's  witli  Ininl  lu'rail  ami  watrr  a  diet 
not  raliMilali'il  to  inri'i'asi-  tlii'  i-i^iility  of  the  liarklionr. 

Till'  I'ain  of  tin- ilay  ronlinnnl  I  IiioukIioiiI  llir  iii^iil,  ami  llii'  following'  nmniinK  lii'oii^lit 
no  rlian^r  with  it.  Not willistanilin.u;  tin' ili'i'ary  |iros|ii'('t,  wi'  rrsiiinril  our  Jonrnry,  lin|iiuK  t<> 
lluil  11  licMiTroiiililiou  of  all'airs  fiirtln'ralon^.  Contrai'y  to  my  i>.\|ii>rtHtiiins,  tlii'  iiatiirc  of  our 
woili  si'i'innl  MioiT  li(i|ii'li'ss  than  lii'roiT;  I lir  cnri'i'iil  sri'inril  to  imMi'asi-  in  strcnu:! li  I'Vriy  mili> 
of  our  jonrni'y,  anil  liffori'  wi'  had  |irori'idt'd  vrry  fai'aliovi'  tin- rainji  wr  wi'it  oliji^^i'd  to  al>aii- 
lioii  till- |iadillrs  and  jtlaci' onrsrlvi-s  in  tlii'  trackiuK  Ixh'ih'^i!^'  'I'ln'  rivi'i'  iiaiiks  at  tiiis  |ioiiit 
Wri'i- such  that  tracking  was  next  to  iin|iossilili';  tlir  ilriisi- growth  of  liuslii'S,  to^i't  lirr  with  tin' 
tniiKh'd  mas<  of  failru  timlii'r  alonj<  tin'  shori'S.  ri'iidrri'd  oui'  footing  very  |iii'rarious. 

Sliortly  afliT  start iiifi'  iii  tlu'  morning;  we  rcaclird  ii  very  daiiKi'ioiis  i'a|iiil,  IIiioukIi  which 
tho  turliuh'nl  watrrs  dashi'd  with  an  almost  irrrsistilili'  foriT,  and  I  dirrrti'd  Ni'Ison  to  adjust, 
till*  trut'kin>;  harni'ss  |iri'|iaratory  to  passinj;  around  it  Wlirii  all  was  in  rcadiiii'ss  I  took  tlin 
sti'i'rinu  |>addh'  and  shrrri'd  thr  liidarka  into  tin-  liiii'st  of  thr  tlooil.  Tlir  stri'ii^^lli  of  thi'  nir- 
rcni,  howrvi'r.  was  ),'rrati'i'  than  I  anticipati'-.l,  ai'.d  catrliint;  tlii'cauoi'  undrr  tlii'  liow,  in  an 
instant  wn  wi'i'c  wliirli-d  into  thi'  torri'ut  WMh'  vainly  cndi'avorintf  to  ihi'ck  its  mad  i  iri'i-r 
Ni'lsnn  was  lira, Lfp'd  into  thi'  rivi-i' a'ld  nair'-wly  I'sraprd  di'owniiiK.  In  tlu'  mean  timi',  liy  thr 
Hcvi'i'i'st  I'xi'rtioii,  I  sui-ci'i'drd  isi  liradinji  tlit' canui!  inslioro,  ami  linally  landi'd  somh' distaiirn 
lirliiw  thr  rapids. 

I'rolitinj;;  liy  thrsi'  I'Xprrii'iii'i's,  wi'  soon  Irarni'd  io  iiroci'cd  with  morr  rautioii  and  adopti'd 
safi'r  im'tlioils  :.i'  ovi'ri'iiuiiiijLf  thi'  daiiKi'i'ois  oiistai'h's. 

Til"'  ii'j^iiiii  tliroiiKli  which  our  Journey  now  lay  was  of  the  most  foiliiddiu^;  description. 
'Hid  apparently  almost  destitute  of  life,  hofh  animal  and  ve^jetalile.  The  adjacent  'ountry  pre- 
sented a  most  remarkalile  desceid;  mountains  and  hills  which  we  had  passed  three  days  liefuni 
sei'iiied  far  helnw  us.  and  every  mile  seemed  to  |ilun;,n'  us  deeper  iido  (he  solitudes  of  the  ri';j;iou. 

The  river  jireseiited  the  same  divided  appearance,  and  no  well-delined  channel  conld  he 
found.  Lute  in  the  afternoon  \vv  i-eached  a  native  villaj^e  which  apparently  had  lieen  deserted 
only  a  few  days  liefure  our  arrival.  It  appeafed  to  have  heeii  occupied  during;  I  he  winter. 
Several  huts  coutaineil  sled;;iu,ij  out  tits  which  had  hei'ii  cached  until  the  relnrii  of  the  owners, 
who  hail  prohahly  j^one  to  the  coast  on  trading  expeditions. 

The  1ie;',vy  and  protracted  rains  of  thi'  jiast  few  days  had  now  caused  very  hi;;h  water,  and 
we  found,  to  our  dismay,  that  the  current  had  iieai'ly  douliled  in  stren^^th.  The  ri\er  f<a\  e  no 
evidence  of  chHii}{iu^  for  the  iM't-ter,  hut,  if  |iussilile,  seemed  to  lieconie  muie  inl ricate  and  winil- 
ini;  than  helnre. 

It  was  iiMpo.ssilile  I o  stem  the  cui'rent  with  our  paddles,  and  even  in  | daces  where  the  track- 
iiifi;  line  could  he  used  it  reipiired  our  utmost  exertions  to  dra,!^  the  liidarka.  throiij^h  the  water. 
Ill  addition  to  this,  the  dreuchin;j;  rains  which  still  coutinued  to  fall,  totcether  with  the  cold 
winds,  reiidei'ed  our  lahor  very  arduous. 

The  liasiii  of  the  river  .seemed  to  occu|iy  a  track  sever.'il  miles  in  width;  the  hanks  were  very' 
low.  and  an  oi'dinary  storm  would  cause  it  tonverllow  and  iiiuudate  much  of  the  surroundiiifif 
country.  Many  of  the  channels  were  undonhtediy  caused  hy  the  spring  freshets,  at  which  time 
the  niovintc  ice,  impelled  liy  the  cui'rent,  plays  havoc  almii^  the  hanks,  destroying;  the  timlier, 
plowini;  new  channels,  and  frequently  I'cachin^  even  the  native  huts  on  the  hiiiher  land. 

Many  of  the  lints  we  saw  wore  in  closo  proximity  to  the  watei-,  and  in  another  year's  time 
would  uudouhtedly  lie  swept  away. 

On  the  fiillowiiif^  mnrnin^.  the  rain  havin^M'ontinueil  tlirouj^houl  the  iii,u;ht.  the  river  had 
risen  sevpi'al  feet,  and  it  was  very  evident  that  we  could  not  continue  our  Journey  until  tins 
waters  had  suhsidcd.  The  hard  usatje  to  which  the  canoe  had  heeii  suhjected  duriii'<  the  jiast 
Week  had  worn  it  very  hadly,  and  it  caused  uiu  uo  little  uu.xiety,  the  constant  succession  of 


CliUISK  OF  THK  MTKAMKK  C'ORWIN.  0^ 

rapHlH  mill  1lit>  miiny  <liuiK«'iM>nH  r<wkH  ill  (In'  clmMiifl  niii<U'r»«i|  the  «ri'ul<«N(  cim'  iH'i-cHwiry  to 
iiviiiti  till'  tiitiil  ili'slriH'tinii  iif  till'  liiiliirku.  svliirli  wmilil  liriii^,  ;ih  an  iiii'vitiilili' I'fwtilt.  tin- rniii- 
plrti'  I'liilii:-!'  i>l'  till'  i'\|ii'ilili<>ii.  On  tin'  itirri'ilinK  iiJKlit.  utti>r  |)iti'liiii>{  riiiii))  iiini  iiiiikiiiK  ()><' 
iiNiiiil  |iir|iiiiiitioim  fill'  i'i'hI,  we  Imiili'il  tlii' I'liiiiM- out  on  tin-  hank;  uftcr  r»'tirin«  Hit-  tlii>uniil 
iM'i'iiiicil  lu  nil'  tliiil  |M'rliii|is  till'  riviT  iiiIkIiI  f^>*>'  iH'ri'ii'  tlir  niorniiiK  hiuI  I'lidiiiiKi'i'  Hn'  I'unnn. 

Ln  uniiT  tu  ••iiiuki'  iiHsiiruiu'i' ilmilily  huii',"  I  liwlii'd  llii'  rnit't  In  u  iii'iKlilxniiiK  tri'f,  iuhI 
vt'i-y  fortiinivd'ly,  Ino,  tm'  in  tin*  nnirniiiK  it  wuh  itlloitt,  uinl  luiilniiliti'illy  witiilil  liiivi<  Im'cii  Inst 
liinl  ni>(  tlif  |>r«M'iiutiiin  Itvcn  liiki'ii  tuMi'i'iiri'  it.  'I'lii.-i  iiuiii>w  i'siu|h>  Innl  tlii'rll'rfl  ot'  I'l'ilonMiii;,' 
Dili'  vi>;iliiiii'r. 

In  till'  niorniiiK  tlii<  Nniituk  ^iviniMl  tin*  lii^^li-wiitor  iinirk,  liinl  lilKinl  ikhmi  (■iiiiiini'iiri'il  tn 
I'l'i'i'ilc  M'ly  slowly.  Till'  hiiliiikii  wiis  now  tlioioiiKlily  wivtiT-Hunkfil.  us  tlii'n«  litul  iicoii  no 
i>|i|ioi'tiiiiity  to  dry  it  sini'n  loHvinj,'  tlin  I'nririii.  in  tliis  condilion  tin*  skin  Imtoihi's  vi'vy  soft 
Hiid  liiilili'  to  ti'iir.  till  firridi'iit  wliiili,  owiiij;  to  tin*  si'Vi>rity  of  tin-  work,  inivtld  oi'iiir  at  any 
tiini'.  U|ion  I'xaniiiiation.  I  disrovi'i'i'd  two  of  tlii>  si-anis  ovi'r  tlii'  kri'lson  liad  ^ivi'ii  way  and 
ill  iiiiiny  otliiT  iilaci's  I'vidi'iicfs  of  wcakiii'ss  wnri' visilili-.  .M'li'r  ri'|»airiiiK  Hit'  daniaKi',  tin' 
ninoi'  was  liaiili'd  out  to  dry.  In  (lie  iiii'un  linn'  1  clinilu'd  n  ni'litlilMirin^  Irri'  lo  olilain  a  vii'W 
1)1'  till"  rivi'i'  aliovi',  and,  happily,  iioti'd  many  di'cidi'd  kIkhs  of  inipiovi'ini'iit.  Having;  tlin 
HHsiiraiH'i' ol'  hi'llir  things,  wi'  wiMit  into  laiiip  hojiiiiK  Ihiit  tin"  iiiorrow  would  hrin^  ii  ray  of 
snnsliini'. 

'rill'  t'ollowiiiic  niorniiij^  o|i('iiril  lair  and  warm;  thr  loii;,'-('uiitiniii'd  storm  had  rxliaiisti'd 
ilsi'il.  and  oni'i'  niorc   llii'  siin  slioiii' in   a  rloinllrss  sky.     Tlii'  ranoi'   ha\in;^  liri'ii  dried   and 

oili'd,  was  iif^ain  in  a  serxirralil nditioii.  and   I  di'ti'i'iiiiiii'd  to  ri'siiiiii'  tin'    joiiniry  without 

di'lay.  'I'lii'  rivi'i' was  still  xrry  liit^li  and  wr  loiiiid  it  iifci'ssary  to  thread  oiir  way  iipwaid 
through  the  smaller  ehaiinels  to  avoid  the  impas.salile  rnrri'iit  in  the  main  rixer.  .Mterroii- 
tiiininK  in  this  way  for  several  miles  we  finally  reached  a  larm'  stream  wliiili  iippeared  to  lie 
the  prini'ipal  I'liaiiiii'l.  ImiI  after  following;  this  for  some  distanee  found  that  it  a^ain  divided 
into  a  net  work  of  small  streams  and  tlierehy  made  our  work  more  disi'oiiiaj^iiiii  than  hefore. 
The  entire  valley  hasaniost  remarkaltle  slope;  in  many  portions,  the  rise  was  plainly  notieeahle 
in  a  stretcdi  less  than  a  half  mile  in  lenj^th.  a  feature  wliieh  Hccoiinted  for  the  nmisiially  rapid 
current,  'i'his.  of  course,  caused  oiir  pro;^i'ess  to  he  \i'ry  slow  jiiid  lahorioiis.  We  had  heeii  in 
the  water  waist  deep  al  times  diiriut;  the  ^'■•''■•■••'i'  [lortion  of  the  day,  ami  conseipieiilly  hefore 
uijihtfail  liecaiiie  thoriuiKhly  chilled  with  the  cold.  After  ><oinK  into  camp  for  the  iii^fhi  our 
chilled  liiood.  a^aii)  put  incirciiialion.  produceil  a  most  peculiar  hurniiiKSuuHatioii,  which  caused 
no  little  pain  and  utterly  iirecluded  the  idea  of  sleej). 

We  had  now  Knined  one  of  the  most  desolate  .sei^tions  of  cmnitry  imaginahle;  in  gazing 
over  the  portion  already  traveled  nothing  met  the  eye  .save  an  unhroken  stretch  of  Hats,  iinro- 
lieved  hy  forests  or  hills.  Ifcre  and  there  a  patch  of  Arctii^  willows,  or  perhajis  a  few  scattered 
sprm'i*  trees,  constituted  the  only  variation  to  the  .scene.  The  sense  of  utter  desolation  and 
loneliness  which  took  iiossessioii  of  the  mind  was  indeed  dillictilt  to  dispel,  and  at  times  seemeil 
almost  \ineiidui'ahle.  No  traceof  human  hahitations could  he  found,  and  even  the  hardy  water- 
fowl seemed  to  have  forsaken  the  region,  leiiving  nothing  to  remind  us  of  the  great  and  Imsy 
world  thousands  of  miles  helow. 

While  at  leisiU'H  the  day  previous  I  examined  the  river  for  some  distance  ahead,  and  found 
that  hy  making  a  short  portage  we  niiglit  .save  a  consideratile  distance  and  g.iiii  time  as  well. 
Accordingly,  we  shouldered  the  canoe  and  carried  it  jicross  to  what  seemed  to  he  the  main 
chaunul  of  the  river.  After  triinsporting  the  outfit  in  a  like  manner,  we  loaded  the  canoe  and 
resumed  the  journey. 

The  river  was  now  much  U'ss  dividt^d  and  had  a  greater  depth,  although  the  current  was 
yet  very  raiiid.  The  1)anks  were  higlier  and  of  su«d\  a  nature  as  to  rench'V  tracking  practicahle; 
coiisei(ni'ntly  we  maih'  nnicli  hotter  progress.  The  surrounding  country  also  inii>roved  greatly 
in  aiipeai'ance;  the  hjinks  sloped  hack  into  a  higher  district,  which  was  diversified  in  ])laces  hy 
patches  of  tinihei',  which  thus  far  had  heen  scarce.  Spruce  and  Cottonwood  ti'ees  arescattei'ed 
along  the  lianks,  hut  as  a  usual  thing  do  not  extend  far  inland.  All  the  timher  shows  decideil 
climatic  repressiou,  the  trees  seldom  attaining  a  diameter  exceeding  twelve  imdies  at  the  base. 


64  CKUISK  OF  TIIK  HTKAMKK  (!(»UWIN. 

On  tho  iiiirtli  bank  of  tint  NoiUuk,  litiout  t«>ii  inilt<H  frnm  otir  pn<Ht<iit  |K)Hitii>n  itnd  tritiiding 
nearly  xiiHt  ami  wi>Ht,  lay  a  loii^  and  niKKtMl  nkii^t'iif  niiMintaiiis;  niii-^rttiiii,  iK-cnpyiiix  a  Home* 
wliat  iHulatvd  itoNitioii,  wiiN  partit'iilarly  i'i<iiiai'kalil(<  in  a|i|it'ai'aiic'«i.  Tin-  I'lilii'i-  ran^c,  froni  liiu<n 
to  Hinniiiil.  wax  lit'  a  li^lil-rrd  culur  and  d<'Htitiiti<  of  lill  vi'Ki'talitm,  Mavi'  a  friii)^)!  iif  ^rct'ii  around 
tliii  liamt.  'I'liK  licaiitil'iil  riinti'a.st  alt'nnlt'd  liy  Hnow-cappiMl  HuniniitN,  ml  Hlnprs,  lind  K>'<'*'n  liawH 
I'ornicd  onii  of  I  hi'  nmsl  novrl  and  inliTi>Nlin>(  hI^IiIm  in  thii  uatini  i-oiintry,  and  otl'orcd  a  Ntndy 
woll  worthy  an  artiHt'H  lirnnh. 

Thx  I'ollowin^  morning  found  uh  af^ain  tiackiii^,  Htriviii^^  to  ovi'iioiui'  lhi<  many  oppoNin)< 
oliHtaclcH  ami  ^ain  tin' rnd  of  our  I'Xpi'dition.  'I'hi'  I'Ivit  a^ain  diviih'd  in  its  ronrHi<  and  prc- 
wmtiMl  nniuy  aInioHt  inHnpt't-aldo  dilllctilticH  ovi'iy  niiiti  that  wi<  advanrtil.  'I'lii' i-onHtant  huc- 
iTHHiou  of  rapids  ri'iidi'i'i'd  our  woi'k  i'.\n>i'ilinKly  hard,  hut  thi'ampliiliiousi|iudilii'sof  our  ualnro 
nnidit  it  a  lualtiT  of  iittii'  importaiici'  whrtiii'r  wi' witi'  in  or  out  of  Ihcwali'i'.  Alioiit  noon, 
howttvi'i',  wti  rcachi'd  a  point  whi'ii'  tlu'  Noiitak  issued  from  a  Hin^h*  (  hanm'l,  a  condition  which 
lightened  our  iahor  very  matci'ially,  allhouKh  llnM-urrriit  scmu'd  to  have  lost  none  of  its  original 
ijualitics.  At  times  it  reipiired  the  united  exertions  of  Nelson  and  myself,  up  to  our  waists  in 
water,  to  control  the  unruly  canoe,  auil  then  we  were  by  m>  means  always  sui'cessful.  Not- 
withstandin^f  these  dilliculties,  we  made  fairly  ^ood  headway,  although  hoth  were  thurouKlily 
fatiKned  at  iiixht.  The  country  still  presented  the  sann<  severely  desolate  appearance;  tho 
mountains  on  eithei-  side  liej^au  to  couver><e  toward  the  river,  and  sonu'  distance  almve  seemed 
to  form  a  solid  wall  directly  aci'oss  its  path.  It  is  needless  to  say  that  this  was  a  most  aKreealilo 
prospeitt,  inasmuch  as  the  river  must  needs  he  confinod  to  a  channel  of  onlinary  width,  a  stuto 
which  would  render  <Mir  work  very  much  lighter. 

The  next  day, .)  uly  ir*,  seemed  to  inaugurate  a  new  era  in  our  work.  At  tlie  usual  hour  wo 
atartod  on  oui-  way,  alt<>rnately  tracking  and  paddling,  as  the  statu  of  tho  rivor  permitted.  In 
nniny  places  a  stronj<  eddy  was  found  alouK  the  shores,  which  was  of  j^reat  a.ssistance  to  us, 
al'hou;;h  the  rocky  natiireiif  t  he  hanks  umde  it  necessary  to  proceed  with  ;ri'eat  cant  ion.  About 
Id  o'clock  a.  m.  we  (Altered  the  highlands  of  tlu*  rau^e  and  !<  uud,  to  our  joy,  that  all  the  brauchoa 
i.ssued  from  one  well-defined  and  narrow  river.  The  dilliculties  at  tend  inji?  our  work  during  tho 
past  ten  days  had  iieeu  very  ^reat,  and  we  had  fr.M|uently  been  placed  in  dangerous  siluationK 
during  that  luemoralih*  t  ime;  but  now  the  prospect  seemed  much  briichlei'  and  we  entered  upon 
the  work  with  rc^m^wed  I'lier^y.  With  the  now  ^^reatei'  hope  of  reachiufj;  the  headwaters,  wn 
])laceil  ourselves  in  tho  tracking?  harness  and  summoned  all  our  latent  oncrj^ii*  for  the  renewal 
of  the  work. 

In  many  portions  of  the  river  the  banks  became  ipiite  |irecipitiuis,  and  fi'e(|uenlly  broke 
out  intot'litt's  of  solid  rock.  Shortly  after  noon  wo  onterod  the  (Irand  Oafions  of  the  Noiltuk, 
a  sectiou  about  three  miles  iu  length,  and  by  far  the  most  interesting  poi'liou  we  had  yet  .setui. 
Hei'e  the  pei'peudicular  walls  rose  hundreds  of  feet  ou  either  side,  seldom  olVei'iu;^  a  foothold 
alouj^  the  bases,  while  the  tops  fre<|uently  overhuuf^  the  river  and  seemed  to  thrt-aten  nniniiMi- 
tarily  to  topple  over  ami  crush  us  beneath  their  ponderous  wei>j;ht.  As  the  river  from  above 
enters  the  callous  it  plunj^es  forwaril  with  an  almost  irresistible  force. 

OwiuK  to  the  precarious  touting  alouK  the  dill's,  our  progress  was  very  slow,  for  it  was 
necessary  to  track  the  canoe  the  entire  distance.  The  uuiny  rocks  which  lined  the  banks,  some 
(»f  which  were  submerged,  made  caution  necessary,  and  at  times  wo  narrowly  escaped  being 
dashed  a;^aiiist  them  by  the  many  ci'oss-cui'reuts  of  the  river.  After  eiuerj^inj^  from  the  caftoiiM 
the  river  enters  a  narrow  valley,  on  either  side  of  which  are  hi^h  rau-^es  of  mountains.  There 
was  no  (rhanjjo  in  tlio  general  fispect  of  the  river;  tlioclnunud  was  marked  by  dangerous  rocks, 
and  tho  cui'i'eut  seemed  lo  have  lost  none  of  its  strength.  The  fatiguing  labors  of  the  day 
began  to  make  thein.selves  felt  ere  niglitCjill,  and  at  about  (J  o'ldock  W(*  went  into  cam[»  for  rest 
and  i-ecuperatiou. 

Proceeding  on  our  way  the  following  morning,  we  dragged  the  canoe  through  a  rajnd  jnst 
above  (-amp,  and  after  jiassiug  it  continued  to  paddle  for  several  hours  without  interru])tion. 
About  II  (M^lock  the  weather,  winch  had  become  unusiuilly  warm,  gave  ovidenoo  of  a  decided 
change.  A  largf  black  cloud,  which  had  ilarkeued  the  e.astei'n  sky,  gradually  rose  until  it 
reached  the  zenith,  when  it  aj)i)areutly  halted  and  fairly  pyurcd  its  liciuid  coutonts  down  upon 


II  Pi   m<   o  I 


K.MJl  IMl)  (IIH\^.  AKKIiWS,  A  Ml  M'l' AKS. 


lisyui.Mo  i)()(is  AMI  .m.uucjI'-. 


II  r.  Ml. ,, 


KSUUIMlJ  UOUTS  .\NIJ  :illUK!i  AND  SNOW-hlluUi 


EiiUUlMd  UUU'lb. 


CRUISE  OP  THE  STEAMER  CORWIN.  66 

us.  I  do  not  remembor  nvcr  lutviiiK  t'xpt'riencwl  stidi  ii  (Iclii^t'  as  lli.it  wliirh  f(i"V)WP(l  for  an 
hour  or  more;  Imt  us  our  ('(mditiou  would  uot  have  hecii  iinprovcd  l)y  stopiiiiij;,  wo  continued  to 
phid  nloiiK  (hiring  tlie  storm,  (ilthough  >)oth  wore  thoroughly  soaked  ore  it  ceased. 

Tile  river  dis|>hiy(Mi  no  new  or  unusual  features  during  (he  day,  l)ut  continued  its  winding 
course  tiirougli  the  mountains,  atVonlin),'  us,  in  nniny  sections,  scenery  of  ilie  grandest  descrip- 
tion. Hero  the  banks  wore  very  bold,  and  in  plaei's  hugi!  ii«-ky  ditfs,  the  sides  of  whiidi  were 
worn  in  the  nn)st  fantastic  shapes  by  the  water,  towered  hun<lrods  of  feet  above  the  river. 
On  one  of  the  most  inaccessible  |)ortions  of  the  cliffs  I  discovered  the  nest  of  a  white-headed 
eagle,  the  owners  of  which,  fearing  that  we  intende(l  miscliief,  displaye<l  very  (h^cided  signs  of 
anger,  ami  would  probabaly  have  resented  vt^ry  tiercely  any  inti'usion  upon  their  solitude. 

One  of  the  most,  noticeable  features  developed  during  the  day  was  the  entire  absence  of 
timber  of  any  description;  no  (Iriftwootl  could  In-  fouml  along  tiic  b.-mks,  ami  it.  was  very 
evident  that  we  had  passed  tht!  timber  limit  and  would  soon  reach  the  table-lands  ui  the  interior, 
if  my  theory  in  regard  to  the  character  of  that  region  proved  correct. 

As  we  progressetl  the  river  became  more  and  more  obstructed  with  rocks,  a  condition  which 
caused  no  litte  an.xii^ty  on  account  (»f  the  canoe.  In  places  of  this  kind  J  invariably  led  it 
through  the  rocks  myself,  and  oftentimes  became  so  benumbed  with  cold  as  to  be  inciii)al)le  of 
motion. 

The  necessity  for  systematizing  our  work  now  became  very  ajtparent,  and  as  no  dis- 
tinction was  made  in  the  performance  of  our  duties,  we  took  "  watcli  and  watch"  on  the  tracking 
line.  Under  ordinary  circumstances  the  man  on  the  tracking  line  held  an  enviable  position; 
during  the  cf)ld  and  inclement  weather  the  work  of  dragging  the  canoe  was  sntHcient  to  keep 
the  blood  in  circul'ition,  wliile  the  unfortunati'  individual  who  held  the  steering  paddle  suffered 
greatly  from  cold,  and  on  nn^re  than  one  occasion  1  took  advant;ige  of  my  jiosition  to  nmke  a 
forced  trade  with  Nelson. 

One  of  the  most  serious  ])roblems  that  now  confronted  us  was  the  sujiiilying  ourselves  with 
proper  foot-gear.  The  heavy  boots  which  we  j)ossessed  in  starting  on  the  journey  had  become 
badly  worn,  owing  to  the  .severity  of  the  work,  and  being  without  others  to  replace  them,  our 
situation  was  in<leed  serious.  The  native  sealskin  boots  which  \v<'  brought  from  the  coast  v.'ere 
(juite  useless,  as  so  soon  as  they  bcconu!  wet  the  stitches  give  way  and  the  skin  tears  irreparably. 
Our  feet  also  ijegan  to  feel  the  ettects  of  the  Journey  .along  tlu'  rocky  banks,  and  often  became 
so  painful  that  it  was  ditlicult  to  stand  upon  them.  Howtiver,  nothing  was  jH-rmitted  to  inter- 
fere with  our  Work,  and  we  |)ress(>d  forward.  eagcM"  to  acconi|)!ish  something  worthy  of  the  etfort. 

Tim  surrounding  country  now  becanni  .sonn-what  less  i'ngge(l,  ami  on  the  whole  was  (piito 
prejxtssessing.  The  mountain  range  which  we  had  pas.stMl  two  daysbefort'  now  stood  out  in  bold 
relief,  forming  a  solid  wall  behind  us,  and  ajijiarently  shutting  off  eveiy  nn-ansof  escape  to  the 
coast.  During  the  day  we  passed  several  snnill  tributaries  of  the  river,  mo't  of  which  hav 
their  origin  in  the  mountain  lakes.  Large  game,  consisting  princii)ally  of  Iiear.and  deer, 
seemed  to  be(piite  abundant;  beaten  paths  over  which  they  traveled  to  and  from  the  river  were 
found  everywhei'e.  as  commonly  as  the  familiar  cow-])aths  in  more  civilized  clinu>s. 

One  morning,  about  l(!  o'clock,  as  we  rounded  a.  sharf)  tniii  in  the  river.  1  discovered  an 
immen.se  buck  regarding  us  intently  only  a  few  feet  distant,  and  evidently  puzzled  as  to  our 
intentions.  Fearing  that  the  slightest  move  would  alarm,  him  we  remained  riveted  in  our  posi- 
tions, silently  regarding  the  tlashing  eyt<  and  <|uivering  nostril  '>{'  the  animal,  until  with  a  toss 
of  his  head  he  bounded  away  t()ward  the  mountains.  Nature  indeed  is  very  beautiful  in  those 
wild,  desolate  regions,  and  I  shall  never  forget  tlu;  thrill  of  ple.-isnrc^  experienced  as  1  stood 
gazing  at  that  wild  and  untamed  creature,  which  undoubtedly  .saw  foi'  the  iirst  time  the  face 
of  a  white  man. 

The  next  morning  gave  indit-ations  of  a  stormy  day  ;  tl.irk  masses  of  lowering  clouds  hung 
over  the  neighboring  summits,  and  we  liad  fully  made  up  (nir  miutis  to  submit  to  another 
soaking;  About  noon  tluM'londs  began  to  bi'eak  ;  to  the  southward,  however,  there  was  a  very 
heavy  storm,  and  the  deep  roll  of  thunder  was  Ik  ard  during  the  entire  day.  Storms  of  this 
des(!ri|)tion  are  of  very  rarti  occurrence  lun-ording  to  my  exjterionce,  and,  save  in  the  instance 
noted,  nothing  of  the  kind  ever  canui  under  my  observation  in  Northern  Alaska, 
P,  Ex.  103 9 


fiG  CRlllSK  OF  THE  HTKAMKIi  CORWIN. 

(»iir  wofk  from  d.-iy  t"'  <l.'i.V  was  iiicrt'ly  u  rt'|pf(iti(iii  id'  fdriiKT  cxitcrit'iiccs,  mid  by  altor- 
iiiitcly  tfiickiiiK  iiii'l  |iii(l(lliii;;  we  cniiliiiiiiMl  tu  iiilviuu'c  ul  u  ijooil  rati' of  .sjH'i'd.  Tlit<  iv>;i(Jii 
tliroiiKli  wliicli  our  joiinicy  now  lay  was  In-avily  ndlinj^,  tlii'iiiountaiiis  iHtiiigin  brokou  ranjyoH, 
and  tii'iidiiiK'  irn^iilaily  fiom  WSW.  to  KNK. 

'riiroiiKlioiil  llif  iiioiiiitaiii  district  \\\v  river  is  sliallow  and  tlic  ciiaiiiu'l  is  studded  with 
obstruftiiiK  rofks.  Asidi"  from  the  usual  daiiK<'i"w  "f  uaviication  in  plaoes  of  this  kind,  iiotliiuK 
of  special  im|ioi'taiice  occurred.  I  shot  aline  pair  of  willow  ^I'ousc^  (/yr/f/o/xj.v  m//)»/.s)  during 
the  day.  July  is.  which  were  the  first  seen  in  the  rej^ion.  We  also  ikoteil  an  eaj,de's  nest,  con- 
tain inj;  two  h.ilf-lledned  liirds,  on  a  JultinK  crau;  not  more  than  twenty-iivt*  feet  ahove  the  water. 
It  is  vei'y  unusual  to  lind  them   in  locations  of  this  kind  and  therefore  specially  noteworthy. 

The  followiui;  day  beinj;'  Sunday,  it  was  my  intention  to  devott*  the  tinu'  to  i-est  and  recu- 
peration aflei'  the  arduous  duties  of  the  week,  hut  I  found  many  things  which  demanded 
immediate  attention  helore  i-esununj^  oui-  journey.  The  wear  and  tear  to  which  the  canoe  had 
been  sill i.jected  hail  chafed  t  he  scams  vei\v  badly,  and  it  was  necessary  t<j  iiatcli  the  dcfuctivo 
parts  before  proieediui;.  The  skin  was  also  watei-soaked  and  re(|uired  di\vin>^.  After  attend- 
ing <o  these  details  I  ascended  a  iieinhborinj;  hill  for  t  lie  purpose  of  examiuinjj;  the  surroundiiij^ 
country,  (hi  ;;ainin^  th  •  eminence  I  discovered  .several  small  lakes,  none  of  which  woro  nioro 
than  a  mile  in  len.i;'lli.  and  silualed  as  they  were,  w^illed  in  by  the  mountains.  Iheircalm  and 
unrullleil  waters  presented  an  indescribahly  beauliful  appeaiance,  and  the  peaceful  .scene  on 
that  beautiful  Sunday  inorninij  did  much  to  soften  the  hardships  whi<di  had  attended  our  wa.y, 
Althou,i;h  I  had  no  upport  unity  to  examine  the  interior  of  tin*  re;;ion  vei'y  extensively,  then* 
are  undouliledly  many  lakes  of  threat er  or  less  size  than  those  exainined  which  act  as  feeders 
to  the  main  river. 

The  volumtMif  water  in  the  Noiitak  had  ;;reatly  diminished  within  the  past^  day  or  two, 
and  navigation  was  attended  with  many  dillicidties. 

The  nextr  mornin;;'  opened  dark  find  stormy,  not wilhstandin;,^  which  W(^  broke  camp  and 
resumed  our  journey  at  the  usual  hour.  About  H  o'clock  the  im])endinj;  storm  burst  uiion  us 
and  tile  rain  fell  in  torrents,  Ihorounhly  ilreiichiiif^  and  demoraliziiif;  us  i^enerally,  although  i' 
was  notr  .illowed  to  impede  our  pio!j;ress.  The  mountains  now  seemeil  to  ai)|iroach  the  rixer 
aj^ain,  and  tiie  lofty  summits  towered  hundreds  of  feet  abuse  it.  The  stream  aj;ain  j)iirsued  a 
very  tortuous  course,  winding  in  ami  around  tiie  niountains.  through  dee))  canons  and  jjdrfjos. 
wher-e.  in  spite  of  the  wi'etcheil  weather,  we  could  not  fail  to  admii'e  the  ,t,n'andeur  of  flio 
scenery.  In  the  me;ui  time  the  fresh  breeze  of  morning- had  increased  into  a  j^ale  which  fairly 
whistled  throujj;h  the  chasms,  and  hoist iiij?  our  sail,  we  were  (Ir  i  ven  rapidly  forward,  notwith 
standing  the  opposiiii,M'urrent  in  the  river.  The  work  now  became  excitinji;  in  thci  extreme. 
Stcei'in;;  the  fiail  canoe  into  the  eddy,  we  determined  to  make  the  best  of  the  o|>])ortnnity  and 
Kiiin  every  pos.sibl((  advantaj^e.  To  N<'lson  I  intrusted  the  steeriiif;;  paddle,  while  I  held  tho 
.jheet  and  employed  every  fjicnlty  in  avoidiiii,'  the  snbnierj^ed  rocks,  which  seemed  to  threaten 
us  with  destruction.  Imbued  with  a  spirit  of  boldness  bordering;  on  ii'ckle.ssness,  tho  caiioo 
was  driven  before  the  iii\\r. 

In  the  afternoon  the  bed  of  the  river  bcLfan  a  most  i-eniark;ible  ascent,  resembling  in 
appearance  ;i  heavily-jj;raded  railway  throuj;li  a  mountain  ilistrict.  With  the  assistance  of  tho 
favoiinj,' nale  .inii  our  miiteil  exertion  wit h  t lie  paddles  we  succeeded  in  stenuuiiig  the  flood, 
and  linallly  f^aiiied  the  snioothei'  water  above. 

Ab(nit  4  o'clock  ]).  in..  ,July  -.'(l.  we  passed  a  lar;;e  triinitiiry  on  the  left  bank,  wliidi  con- 
tributed fully  one-third  to  the  total  volume  below.  The  water  from  this  stream  was  clei'.r  iind 
beautiful,  ami  evidently  had  its  source  in  a  mounfaiu  lake  not  far  distant;  the  water  in  tho 
Noi'itak  was  ipiite  the  reverse  in  appearance,  and  as  the  two  rivers  mingled  each  j)roserved  its 
characteristic  for  fully  half  a  mile  below,  the  waters  reiiuiiiiinn- entirely  separate  for  that  dis- 
tance. 

At  this  jHiiiit  the  ianj;e  of  niountains  on  the  rij^ht  bank  crosses  the  path  of  tlio  rivor,  trend- 
ing iiboiit  northeast.     These  ariMimoiii;  the  hii>hi"<t  found  in  any  jiortion  of  the  region  exploi'ed. 

Directly  above  here  the  river,  by  a  sharp  turn,  leaves  the  mountains  and  enters  upon  a 


CRUISE  OF  THE  STEAMER  CORWIN.  07 

rountry  of  an  entirely  differpiit  character.  Indeml.  this  siuhh'n  transfornuition  of  scene  is  one 
of  tlie  nitwt  iMH'uliar  and  striking  features  of  the  NoiUai<  Rivtn-  region. 

As  we  cntercil  upon  tiiis  last  se<-ti()ii  I  cannot  convey  an  idea  of  the  i)ictun'  whicli  met  our 
view.  Heliiiid  us  (lie  dark'  wall  of  inouiilains  (iiri)ii;,di  wImcIi  we  iiad  just  passccj  towered 
ujiward  iiiilil  tlicir  siiiiiiiiits  were  lost  in  (lie  clouds,  and  seemed  like  an  impassalile  Itarrier, 
shutting  us  oH'  from  tin-  outside  worlii.  Before  us  lay  (lie  level  i)lains  of  (lie  interior,  stretch- 
injj;  away  in  (lie  distan(H«,  unrelieved  by  a  single ohject  niton  whicli  (lie  eye  could  rest  with  any 
feeling  nC  pleasure. 

The  gale,  wliii'li  had  coidiiiued  during  (lie  clay,  developed  inlo  a  tiei'ce  Arctic  blast  that 
fairly  benumbed  ns  with  col<l.  and  in  view  of  our  miserably  wet  condition  our  jKjsition  was 
anything  but  eiivialile.  Tlie  lack  of  wood  or  fuel  of  any  kind  ad<leil  notliing  to  our  comfort, 
and  for  the  first  time  1  felt  completely  disliearteiied.  I'pon  examining  (lie  river  above  I  found, 
to  my  dismay,  that  it  again  branched  out  into  a  niimbcr  of  channels,  none  of  which  had  suffi- 
cient »va(ei' a,|i))aren11y  (o  tloat  the  canoe,  an  emergency  which  in  (he  ]iresent  s(;de  of  mind  I 
was  ill  prepared  (o  encouidcr.  Having  satisfied  myself  with  the  examination,  I  returned  to  the 
camp,  hoping  that  the  niorrow  might  bi'ing  renewed  courage. 

'I'he  canoe  was  now  found  to  be  leaking  badly,  and  a  search  revealed  a  very  serious  cut 
over  tliiM<celson,  which,  after  two  hours' labor,  we  succeeded  in  repairing  substantially.  It 
was  now  manifestly  impossible  (o  procei^d  further  unless  (he  canoe  could  be  lightened,  and 
with  (his  end  in  view  1  de(ermined  (o  cache  ('verytiiing  which  could  besjiai'cd  from  our  ali'c^ady 
slender  outfit,  taking  with  us  only  the  barest  nece.ssit  i(!S  sufficient  f(jr  a  period  of  threi'  weeks. 
Having  divideil  our  stock  of  provisions,  we  left  tlie  greatei-  portion  of  (he  ilour.  bacon.  coff(>e, 
and  surplus  animuiiition,  all  of  which  were  lashed  in  a  rubber  blanket  and  secured  on  a  plat- 
form iiKide  by  bending  together  a  number  of  strong  willow  bushes.  The  provision  taken  witli 
ns  was  not  sulli<'ieiit  to  nieetour  wants,  but  with  (he  adilidon  of  the  game  which  we  might 
<tb(ain  i(  would  be  possible  to  eke  out  all  existence  for  a  few  Weeks"  time.  Af(er  having 
nuirked  the  spot  and  (aken  (he  [iroper  bearings,  we  jiroceculed  on  our  way  without  any  mishap 
worthy  of  note. 

The  Noiltak  was  now  considerably  divideil,  and  we  exjierienciMl  the  same  dillicuity  in  find- 
ing a  <le(inite  channel  tluit  caused  so  much  (roiibh^  at  an  earlier  period.  About  five  miles 
above  the  camp  we  were  gri'atly  relieveil  to  (ind  that  all  converged  to  a  single  (diaiinel.  and 
entered  upon  our  work  with  renewed  iii(er(\s(.  The  landscape  was  one  of  the  bleakest  imagin- 
able; not  a  sign  of  life  was  anywhere  visible,  and  (he  cold,  piercing  blasis  which  swept  acro.ss 
tlie  tundra  caused  us  to  realize  keenly  tlu^  solitude  of  our  (lositionand  only  increased  our  desire 
to  .see  the  eiiil  of  the  journey. 

During  the  night  the  No'itak  rose  fully  two  feet,  and  theelVect  was  ;U  once  noticealile  in 
the  incri';ise(|  s(reiig(li  of  cui'reid  as  we  resumed  onr  way  nexl  morning.  The  region  through 
which  We  ]p.issed  w.is  similar  in  e\-ery  respect  to  that  of  (he  day  pre\ious.  concerning  which 
there  was  absolu(ely  uodiing  worthy  of  mention. 

The  cold  winds  which  swept  o\'er  moors  wei'c  ilispirit ing  in  the  extreme,  and  it  was  not  in 
a  cheerful  state  of  mi  ml  I  hat  we  dragged  the  canoe  along  the  I'ocky  banks  of  the  ri\'er. 

Till'  utmost  economy  ol  provision  was  now  alisolutely  necessar.v.  and  the  limited  allow.anco 
per  day  was  beginning  to  make  inroads  upon  our  sdciigdi.  I  succeeded  in  sluKtlinga  few  cur- 
lew, which  Nelson  incorporaled  iiilo  a  kind  of  soiij).  ainiosi  as  thin  as  thiM-elebi-ated  "Shadow" 
brand,  bii(  if  not  very  sustaining,  at  least  it  .served  to  fill  the  exisfing  void. 

The  nexl  morning  opened  cold  and  overcast,  and  it  was  with  reluctance  that  we  left^  (ho 
shelter  of  the  (cut  and  faced  the  cutting  blast.  A(  the  usual  hour,  however,  we  were  in  n^adi- 
ness  (o  move.  Aboul  four  miles  above  the  camp  we  gained  a  soiuewiiat  smoother  portion  of 
tins  river,  and  resumed  our  places  in  (he  civnoe  preparadtry  (o  using  tlie  paddles.  Meanwhile 
a,  fi'esli  breeze  sjirang  up.  and.  as  usual,  we  made  sail  in  order  (o  rigldeii  our  laboi-.  Proceed- 
ing in  (his  manner  for  a  mile  or  uau'e  we  reached  a  rapid  portion  of  tlu'  river,  which  1  deter- 
mined, if  possible,  to  sail  through,  lioping  to  .save  (he  cold  batJi  which  would  otherwise  be 
involved,  for  (he  (racking  line  could  not  be  used  in  passing  it.  l]y  dint  of  hard  work  we  had 
gotten  about  half  way  tlirouyh  when  the  bidarka  fouled  with  a  sunken  rock.    Befvro  tho 


G8  CRUISE  OF  THE  STEAMEK  CORWIN. 

ciiliiiuily  tiMild  1(1'  averted  tlio  caiioo liiid  wliirled  hroiulsidc  to  tlicciirri'ut  miil  cfipsizi'd.  Fort- 
tiuutidy  the  water  \va><  not  deej),  and  so  soon  as  our  senses  were  recoveretl  we  ri>;litod  the  craft 
and  pnl  into  I  lie  li.-i.nk.  A  sui'Vey  of  tlie  daniai;n  I'evi'aled  only  a  tliorou;i;li  weltinj;,  and  our 
next  impulse  was  to  indulge  in  a  hearty  lan>;li,  i^ven  lliou^li  there  was  nothin;;  [tarticularly 
ludiertnis  in  the  sitinition.  Tlio  (-auou  had  partly  iilleii  with  water,  hy  whi(di  everything  waff 
inoiH!  oi"  less  damaged.  The  oidy  serious  loss  was  (hat  of  our  footgear,  which,  hy  some  unae- 
countalile  means,  had  disa|)peared  in  the  excitement  of  the  moment.  Otherwise  than  an  ley 
l)ath,  however,  and  the  loss  mentioneil.  we  exiierii^ieed  no  |)arti(Mdur  hanlship. 

1  detei'mineil  to  go  into  camp  in  order  tiiat  our  cll'ccts  ndght  he  overhauled  lieforit  resuming 
our  Work.  After  getting  the  tent  in  order,  i  dii-ecti^i  Nelson  to  cut  some  of  the  spare  .seal-skin 
into  strips  of  sullicicnt  Icngt h  to  lie  made  into  a  rucle  moccasin  which  mightr  at  least  serve  as  a 
|)rotection  against  the  sharp  rocks,  and  hefore  idghtfall  we  weie  again  shod  and  I'eady  to  advance. 
Indeed,  Die  d itHcnl ties eneountered  only  seemed  toawaken  thestuhhorn  eh  mentsof  our  natures, 
and  with  a  dcli'rmination  not  to  Ixt  halllcil,  wo  prepared  ourselves  to  ni'-et  anytiiing  short  of 
utter  annihilation. 

The  next  moridng,  July  tJ-t.  tlie  Weather  liaving  mo(h'ratedsullicit>ntly.  we  again  proceeded, 
hut  nothing  o-curred  to  vai'v  the  monotony  of  our  lahors.  In  the  afternoon  we  entered  a  higher 
and  more  I'olling  coiuil  ry.  and  in  |  daces  tin'  river  widened  into  a  s(  ream  of  twice  its  ordinary 
hreaillh.  Merc  we  found  it  so  shallow  that  it  was  with  great  dilliculty  we  succeeded  in  passing. 
In  several  places  of  this  kind  we  were  ohliged  to  lighten  the  canoe  hefore  advancing.  Late  in 
the  day  we  r4'a('hed  a  de.sci-ted  lishing  village,  the  site  of  which  was  evidently  selected  with  a 
view  to  utilizing  the  salmon  spawning  heils  in  the  vicinity. 

For  ii  long  distance  here  the  river  was  marked  hy  many  dangerous  rapi^ls,  none  of  wliic-h 
wei'e  more  than  a  half  mile  apart,  and  hetween  which  the  river  was  smooth,  deep,  and  admira- 
hly  adapted  for  spawning  lieds.  The  village  is  occupied  onl\  luring  the  salmon  run.  which 
occurs  sofu  after  the  ice  moves  out  in  the  spring.  Large  uiniiliersof  tish  enter  (he  rivei' at 
that  time,  many  of  whicli  pemlrale  the  extrenn-  headwaters  hefore  spawning.  When  the 
young  ai'e  sullicieiil  ly  grown.  usumIIv  aiiout  the  middle  of  August,  the  ret rogr;ide  movement 
hegins,  and,  guidi'il  liy  the  mysterious  dictates  of  instinct,  they  start  for  the  se.i.  The  parent 
salmon,  whose  duties  cease  when  till'  spawn  ai'e  deposited,  seldom  or  never  return.  Late  in 
thesejisou  large  nundiers  of  dead  may  he  sei-n  tlo.ating  down  the  I'iver  and  the  su|)position  is 
that  all  the  parent  lisli  perish  hefore  I'eaching  the  sea.  In  tln^  mean  time  the  migrating  young 
have  many  dangers  to  encounter  hefore  ri'aciiing  the  open  waters.  Upon  gaining  (he  lower 
river  they  are  nu'(  hy  large  .schools  of  seal  (/'A oca  r/7/(////f().  ii"d  here,  indeed,  their  trouhled 
existence  hegins.  Before  passing  tiiis  ordeal  (heir  numhers  .are  sadly  decimated,  and  not  more 
than  one-third  of  the  original  nnmher  ever  reach  the  se.-i.  l.iarge  (|uantities  are  also  caught  hy 
the  natives  and  dried  for  winter  use.  Sever.al  nativ(!  caciies,  mounted  u[)on  tripods,  were 
passed  along  this  section,  none  of  whicli.  howevei'.  were  exandned. 

The  wcjither  lieing  very  stormy  the  next  morning,  I  deternuued  to  reuuiin  in  eainp.  The 
*'onstant  exposure  ;inil  hardship  of  t lie  Journey  were  lieginning  to  tell  upon  our  strength,  anil, 
in  addition  to  other  tilings.  1  diil  not  consider  it  jiruderit  to  hreak  ca.m|)  and  expose  ourse'ves 
to  the  inclemi'in-ies  of  the  weather.  The  heavy  rains  of  the  past  few  days  liad  now  swollen 
the  river  to  such  an  exii'nt  that  we  were  ohliged  to  remove  to  higher  ground.  V\'e  fouml  gri'.at 
diflicnlty  in  ohtaining  sullicient  wood  with  which  to  pre[)are  our  scanty  unials;  willow  hranchos 
and  ilry  grass  were  the  only  .-ivailahle  articles  of  fuel,  and  oftentimes  even  this  failed  us. 

'i'he  next  morning  the  storm  had  suhsided  and  we  pr<K'e('ded  on  our  way.  The  river  was 
yet  very  high,  and  the  current,  augmented  liy  the  tlood,  had  nearly  douhled  in  strength,  so  that 
with  ilitliculty  we  held  our  c(turse.  The  Noiltak  now  entered  a  low  section  of  country,  through- 
out which  it  was  divided  iido  a  nundter  of  channels.  A  large  nnml)er  <(f  lakes,  each  of  whicli 
has  an  outlet  into  the  river,  (h)t  the  entire  region,  a  fact  which  made  .t  evident  we  were 
approaching  the  headwaters. 

We  pass(Ml  a  cache  of  nativt*  sledges  (hiring  tlio  day,  the  signitieuuco  of  whicli  we  realizoil 
a  few  days  later,  after  reaching  a  i)oint  ahout  lifty  miles  above  it. 


ORUIHK  OF  THE  STEAMER  CORWIN.  69 

Tho  iilmn.st  mitiro  at)sonco  of  life  is  onn  of  tlin  fliaractoriHtio  foaturcs  of  IIiih  rogion.  Tim 
sciiso  of  loiicliiii'ss  wliii'li  frc((ii('iifly  to(»k  [losscssion  of  llic  mind  \v;is.  imlccil,  ililliciiH  to  tlirow 
olf,  and  its  infiiicnctf  wasdc^prcsHinK  in  tiio  cxtrtuno.  Tli(Mlistaiico  traveled  during; tlirday  was 
a(!(ionii>liHh(iil  \>y  trackiuf^  nx(duMivcly;  tlio  rapiil  ciirrciii  and  rocky  rlianni-l  i('ndciv<l  it  iitt|Mis- 
Hil)l(*  to  iisi!  (Ill'  paildlcs;  for  Horu()diHtaiurn  W(»  wcroobliKt'd  to  drag  tin-  caiioi'  (iiroujili  liy  taking 
to  tlii^  icy  water  onrsi'lv(\s. 

Tlio  river  now  l)('camn,Hliallower  every  milnof  its  length,  au<l  i'l  one  instance  it  hecamo 
iioeessary  to  portage  tile  canoe.  About  nooii,  .Inly  x'S.  we  pa,><sed  a  I  irge  Irilmtary  tluwing  into 
tile  main  river  from  east-sontiieast,  which  contriliuted  nearly  oiie-aalf  to  the  total  volimiH  of 
water  l)elow. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  we  founilon  the  left  hank  what  appeai'ed  to  hea  grave,  an<l,  promj>tod 
l)y  cm-iosity,  I  <leternMne(l  to  halt  ami  examine  it.  Upon  gaiiiinv,  the  spot  we  discovered  that 
it  was  a  well-dis;jui.se(|  cache,  containing  a  large  ipiantity  of  skins,  iiati\'e  clothing,  hoots,  and 
a  general  assortment  of  native  jios.sessions,  together  with  a  si -dging  niitlit.  'i'lie  significance 
of  these  caches  now  hecame  evident;  the  extremedillicnlty  att-nding  the  navigation  ahove  tliis 
point  made  it  cle.ii- that  the  natives,  on  I'etnrning  from  the  c.iast.  ah.indoned  the  river  here  and 
completed  their  journey  on  sledges,  'i'liis  fact  Was  reiidereil  doiilily  certain  liy  tiniling  sevefid 
ahaiidoiied  hidarka  frames  in  the  vicinity,  and  iliis  conclusion  .seems  to  he  tlie  most  reasoni».l)le 
coiicei'iiing  the  solution  of  it.  Altlicnigli  it  was  an  ai'diioiis  inidertakiiig,  ;md  one  wliich  might 
involve  the  dest  met  ion  of  the  canoe,  I  (jet  erii  lined  to  push  jihead  and  I'each  some  deli  n  it  e  so\irce 
if  possihie. 

The  next  nioriiiuLt  hrokc  d.ark  and  overcast;  .a  jiiercing  sonthwest  wind  swept  across  tho 
tundra  that  fairly  hen  limited  us  with  cold,  ai:d  it  was  with  great  reluctance  that  we  turned  luit 
to  tace  it.  As  We  were  preparing  to  start  Nelson  coni plained  of  feeling  ill,  and.  indeed,  liis 
appearance  fully  attested  the  truth  of  the  staten\ent.  After tiuestioning  I  decided  it  wotdd  not 
h  '  |»rude'iit  to  suhject  liim  to  the  exposure  incident  to  the  work,  and  determined  to  remain  in 
i-amp.  The  icy  cold  water  of  tiie  river  thr<aigh  whiidi  we  wei-e  frei|ueiitly  ohligi'd  to  dra"-  the 
canoe,  together  with  the  extreme  inclemency  of  the  weather,  was  snllicieut  to  hreak  down  the 
strongest  constitution,  and  the  hanly  .sailor  was  not  tlie  man  to  give  up  until  physically  dis.ahled. 
After  ma.kiiiu;  him  as  comfort;ihle  as  circumstances  permitted.  I  set  out  in  seaich  of  game.  l)ut 
after  a  tramp  of  several  hours  I'eturned  without  having  seen  any  sign  ol'  life. 

Nelson  was  now  snifering  from  a  high  fever,  and  li is  condition  aiarmerl  me  extremely. 
Towards  eveliilli;-.  however,  he  impl'oved  somewhat  ;niil  declared  himself  ahle  to  move  on.  'I'lie 
following  niorning  I  determined  to  hreak  caiiip,  I  did  not  consider  it  prudent  to  allow  Nelson 
to  track,  so  put my.self  in  (he  harness  ;ind  v.'e  stiirted  forward.  The  morning  was  dark  and 
gloomy;  (he  cold  winds  continued  with  miahated  vigor  iiiid  the  prospect  was  ;inytliing  hut 
reassni'ing  or  ciaiduci ve  to  hodily  comfort. 

The  No;i(ak  was  now  a  mere  chain  of  rapiils  following  in  ipiick  succession,  and  eacli  seem- 
ing (o  surpass  i(s  predecessoi'  in  the  dangers  involved. 

Shortly  afler  s(ar(ing  in  the  moi'iiing.  whih^  p.assing  one  of  these  jilaces.  I  lost  my  footing 
and  was  precipitated  into  the  river.  After  gaining  the  hank  and  tinding  that  the  c<ild  hath  had 
not  de|)rived  nie  of  speech.  I  gave  vent  to  my  feelings  in  a  n\anuer  which  could  not  he  mis- 
taken. I)ut  the  siiltject  of  my  remarks  heing  somewhat  irrelevant,  they  may  he  omitted  here. 

The  channel  of  tlie  river  now  became  alarmingl.v  stu(lde<l  with  dangerous  rocks,  ami  in 
progressing  neither  the  paddles  nor  tracking  line  could  he  used.  The  cr(tss  currents  resulting 
from  this  rendered  the  c;inoe  ipiiie  nnmanageahle.  and  I  w.as  freipiently  obliged  to  jump  into 
the  river  to  avoid  disaster.  Shortly  after  \i<ion  we  passed  two  large  tribut;iries.  entering  in  (do.se 
proximity  on  the  left  hank,  above  whi<di  the  volume  of  th<»  already  shallow  I'iver  was  .so  dimin- 
ished that  further  jvrogress  was  almost  impossible.  N<!ar  the  mouth  of  one  of  these  tributaries 
there  is  an  \)n\isually  dangerous  rapid,  where  (he  sharp  angular  nicks  .seemed  to  threaten  us 
with  imm(i<liate  destruction. 

As  the  condition  of  Nel.son's  lieaKh  was  anylhing  but  rea.ssuring,  I  in.sisted  on  his  romain- 
iug  in  the  cau<x!,  and,  after  the  severest  (•xeilion,  succoodod  in  dragging  it  through  tho  rapid, 


70  CRUISE  OF  TIIK  HTKAMKU  COIIWIN. 

not,  liowovor,  hcl'on'  p'ttiiij;  my  lliird  Icitli  diiriiii^  tlic  iliiy  in  IIh-  coM  whIcis  uI'  tlin  ri  cr. 
Tims  flic  (lay  pjissrd.  ami  liy  iii;;litfall  I  he  rliilliiiK  rlTccls  "'  tli*'  wnrU  liuil  I'oinplctcly  Ix'iiiiiiMx'il 
me  with  cold,  and  \V(^  iiilclicd  cam])  just  lii'lorc  tlu^  cnmmt'nccmcnt  oi'  a  drcncliin^  rain. 

Wii  had  n<iw  j^jaincd  a  |>iiiiit,  as  accurately  as  1  cmild  cHtiinatc.  ahoiit  live  humlrcil  miles 
from  the  coast,  havin;;  accomplished  the  distance  in  twenty-seven  days"  time.     The  journey 

thus  far  had  1 u  nuule  wil  lioiit  serious  accident,  and  our  frail  canoe  was  still  sei'vicealiie,  not- 

witliHtandiuK  the  rou^h  usage  lo  which  it  had  lieen  suhjeetcd.  Th(>  condition  f)f  the  river  was 
now  such  that  it  was  not  pi'udent  to  proceed  furthei'  with  the  hidarka,  f(  v  shoidd  any  accident 
occur  we  shoidd  have  no  nnviris  of  relnrninj^  to  the  coast.  No  mateiiid  of  any  description 
CHHihl  he  found  with  which  to  construct  a.  raft,  it  heiiifj  fully  two  iimidied  miles  to  the  nearest 
timher  Ki'"wth.  In  view  of  the  fact,  I  determined  to  lea\'e  the  canoe  and  proceed  on  foot  as  fai' 
us  circumstances  permit,  hoping  in  the  mean  time  to  rea(di  the  source  of  t  he  river. 

On  viewing  the  stream  from  a  iieighhoring  hill  it  hecaine  very  evident  that  we  had  jiassed 
till!  lieiul  of  hoat  navigation  and  a  point  considerahly  aliove  that  traveled  hy  tht^  natives.  The 
river  was  now  very  narrow,  and  in  most  places  the  wati-r  did  not  exceed  a,  foot  in  depth. 

The  following  morning,  July  ■'!!,  as  we  made  prejiai'ations  for  starting,  the  rain  hegaii  to 
fall  in  torrents,  and  !  did  not  consider  it  a<lvisahle  to  proceed.  During  a  lull  in  the  storm  I 
e.xamined  the  river  aliove  for  ahout  two  miles,  hut  found  no  change  for  the  hetter;  rajiid  fol- 
lowed rapid,  and  with  our  previous  experience  in  the  work,  I  re.-ilized  that  it  would  lie  inipos- 
sihle  t<i  get  a  lioat  through  in  safety.  After  returning  to  caiii|i  we  hauled  the  canoe  out  and 
curried  it  to  a  place  of  safety,  where  it  was  concealeil. 

Early  the  following  morning  we  resiimeil  our  journey,  taking  with  ns  a  small  (|iiantity  of 
lirovision.  together  with  the  instruments.  The  rain  had  now  turned  to  sleet,  and.  dri\eii  hy 
the  fierce  hlast,  it  cut  us  to  theipiiidv.  Thus  iielted  hy  the  merciless  storm  we  continued  to 
follow  the  river.  The  siirroiindiiig  region,  a  rolling  ]ilain,  was  partly  covered  with  snow  and 
water.  The  vast  'aiiifall  seenii'd  to  ha  ve  iniiiiilated  the  ent  ire  count  ry,  ami  at  times  wi  were 
ohliged  to  waile  throiigli  the  half-fro/.eii  moors,  which  extende(l  to  the  very  hanks  of  the 
stream. 

Thus  We  journeyed  along,  our  work  lieing  unmaikeil  hy  incident  of  note.  i.,ate  in  the  day 
we  gained  an  eminence  on  the  right  hank,  which  I  determined  to  ascend  for  the  purpose  of 
obtaining  a  view  of  the  siirioumling  country.  Leaving  Nelson  at  the  foot  of  flu'  hill  to  ]ire- 
pure  coffee,  I  clanihered  up  the  steep  sides,  taking  with  im^  only  the  com])ass.  The  scene  which 
met  my  gaze  upon  gaining  the  height  was  one  of  ntter  desolation.  In  every  directic".  as  far 
as  the  eye  I'ould  reach,  the  dreary  expanse  of  tundra,  covered  with  small  lakes  and  half-fi'ozeii 
marshes,  stretched  uway  in  the  distance.  The  Noiitak.  no  longer  the  stately  river  which  flowed 
into  the  sea.  had  degeiierateil  into  ;i  mere  ramliling  creek,  the  wiiti-rs  of  which  would  not  float 
even  our  light  camH\  Not  a  vestige  of  life  was  to  he  seen.  Kven  the  lianly  water-fowl,  that 
seek  the  solitudes  of  the  far  north,  seemed  to  have  forsaken  the  region. 

As  I  stood  on  the  height,  pelted  liy  the  storm  and  chilled  hy  the  fierce  Ai'cfic  blasts,  my 
thoughts  turned  hack  to  the  home  of  other  days.  The  fearful  I'ontrasf  of  the  scene  liefore  nie 
and  the  other,  so  distinctly  pictureil  on  the  ]iages  of  memory,  left  no  room  for  expression,  and 
with  a  sigh  of  relief  I  turned  and  joined  Nelson  helow.  lT)ion  reaching  the  spot  I  found  him 
vainly  emleavoring  to  start  a  lire.  There  was  no  wood  of  any  descri])tion  to  he  found,  and  the 
dead  grass  was  ,so  thoroughly  soaked  as  to  utterly  refuse  to  ignite;  and.  cold  and  fatigued  as  we 
were,  we  started  hack  toward  oiir  camp,  aliout  twelvi'  miles  helow.  and  at  a,  late  hour  we 
reaclufd  it. 

We  had  now  gone  liey<ind  the  head  of  canoe  navigation  and  had  reacheil.  |iractically  speak- 
ing, the  headwaters  of  the  river.  The  vast  nuniher  of  lakes  whicdi  covered  the  face  of  the 
country,  all  of  which  were  draineil  hy  the  river,  made  it  evident  that  it  could  not  ho  truced  to 
one  source.  Aliove  us  the  Noiitak  divideil  info  several  hranclies.  and  as  none  were  navigahh'. 
fnrtlier  jirogress  was  manifestly  impossihle.  Every  effort  had  lieen  made  to  ac<'omjilish  the 
object  of  the  expedition,  and  now  that  we  had  achieved  all  that  lay  in  onr  power,  I  determined 
to  retreat  without  delay. 


C'RUIHK  OF  TMK  HTKAMRR  ColtWIN.  71 

Tilt)  (»xi'rti<)iiM(if  tlifdivy  iHTviims  liiid  wciiiicd  iiMMoincwliiit;  niiis('(|ii<<Mtly  \v«  wcri'  not  uHtir 
till  H  Into  JKiur  tlid  folldwiiiK  morning.  TIk'  sloi'in  imw  iiicrrjiscil  in  viciii'iict';  the  sin. ill  lininks 
mill  (Treks  litiil  swiillm  into  lnri'i'iils,  in  ('iiiisiM|iii'ni')'  nf  wliicii  tin-  No/ituk  I'nsr  with  aliii'iiiiii^; 
niliidity  hikI  l>id  t'liir  to  liciiij^c  (lie  siirioimdin:;  cuimtry.  I  ni>\v  di'tcniiinfd  to  |iri'|);irt' fur  mif 
rotiini  trip;  tlin  (•■•iiinc  liiid  Iraki 'd  Itadly  iliii'iiiic  tiu'  lasl  IVw  djiysul'  its  usf.  jdllinii;;li  nn  di'l'iTlivr 
HPiiMiH  cdiilil  lie  fniinil.  Kiuiilly.  liDWc^vcr,  I  ri'inuvcii  i>ii«'i>r  tlix  iMitclii'siiiid  sultstiliifi'd  ii  lar^jcf 
i)nn,  a  nii'asurr  whii-li  iinin'ovt'd  fliinj^s  inatrrially.  Tin' disi-iiiiirurl  urrasioin'd  l)y  siltiny;  in  a 
|)iM)l  of  water  ('annul  he  aplly  di'scrilicd,  Init  it  is  not  prmlnitixc  i>t  a  I'lii'iTriii  IVainc  id'  mind. 

After  liaving  ovorlwiulcd  tlu"  hidai'ka.  and  |ii'i'paratinns  lirin;;  nnidr  I'm'  dcpai'lnri'.  \v<> 
awaited  more  propitiuns  weather  to  lii'eak  eanip,  allhuni^h  nu  chantce  Icxik  plaeednrini;  the  day. 

Anj^ust  :i,  like  Ihe  days  pn din;;,  opened  veiy  stormy,  with  the  rain  I'aJiin^'  he.'ivily;  the 

river  had  risen  sevtM'al  feet  dnrin;;  the  ni^ht  and  had  nearly  reached  the  camp,  inakin;;  it  neces- 
sary to  move  withont  delay.  Notwithsl.'unlinK  the  down-ponr.  we  tiroke  camp,  lannched  the 
cmoe,  and  lia-stily  loaded  it  with  onr  elVects  in  readiness  for  moving',  'i'o  start  down  the  river 
at  that  time  scmed  like  a  ha/ardons  undertakinL;.  I' :>r  the  ordinary  dan;;ers  had  now  doiihli'd; 
hut  at  all  events  we  conld  not  I'einain  in  our  present  position.  Alioul  this  lime  Ihe  thought  of 
possilile  danger  to  the  (Nidm  occur'red  to  me,  and  the  alarmin;;  rapidity  with  which  the  river 
continued  to  rise  was  not  at  all  reassurini;.  The  ciche  l.'iy  alioiit  one  hundred  ar;d  Iwenly-live 
miles  below  our  i)resent.  location;  to  reach  it  that  day  would  involve  ;.;i'eat  exertion,  nnd  was  an 
nMderta,kinjf  fraught  with  danger.  After  consulting  Nelson,  in  whose  .ju(lf,'ment  1  had  the  riiliest 
(ionlidence.  it  was  dclermined  lo  st;irt  at  once. 

To  descrilio  the  incidents  ol'  that  e.\citini<  race  would  rniuire  an  aider  [ten  1li;ui  mine;  the 
dangers  en(!ouiiten*d  on  the  a.sci'nilin^?  journey  were  now  doubled.     Rocks  which  befoi'e  were 

jilainly  visible  were  now  partly  hidden  by  the  tl I.  ;ind  evei'y  faculty  w;is  reipiired  to  avert 

constantly  impendint;  destruction.  In  places  of  this  kind  the  s|ieed  at  which  we  travided  left 
no  time  birdebjite;  an  obstruction  was  no  .sooni'i' si)j;hted  than  we  were  upon  it.  Now  resting 
on  our  paddles  while  borne  swiftly  alon^.  the  next-  moment  we  were  straJnin^  every  muscle  to 
avoid  the  rocks  which  suddenly  joomed  up  ahejul  and  towards  which  we  were  dashiii^;  with 
loconiotive  speed.  In  places  wliei't-  the  rocks  were  entirely  submeri^ed.  the  cinoe  seenu'd  to  l)e 
drawn  tow.-ird  them  by  souu*  irresistible  force,  and  before  we  learned  to  detect  tlies(^  pl.-ices  we 
had  more  tluvn  one  escape  from  disaster.  My  fears  in  repaid  to  tin'  cache  were  ^I't'iitly  increiused 
by  Ii  ml  iuLC  tho.se  of  the  natives  in  very  precarious  sit  nations,  a  fact  which  jiroved  the  llooij  to 
bo  almost  unprecedented  in  extent.  Sever.il  of  those  we  passed  wi're  in  dangerous  pro.vimity  to 
the  water,  ;ind  in  a.ll  probability  were  snliseipient iy  destroyed. 

'Hie  story  of  thiseventfid  day  is  one  of  excitemerd  .'ind  dan^'er;  time  jind  spiice  cannot  1)0 
ilevidcii  to  the  subjecl. 

About  the  middle  of  the  afternoon,  having;  Journeyed  over  seventy  miles,  mir  exertions 
be^an  to  tell  upon  us.  and  it  was  determined  to  halt,  for  a  brief  rest. 

The  rain  continued  .it  intei'vals  dui'ini;  the  il;iy.  and  fi'om  Ihe  appearance  of  the  banks  it 
was  evident  the  river  had  not  reached  the  hiL(h-water  mark.  After  a  delay  of  about  thirty 
minutes,  we  a^ain  launched  forth  on  the  swollen  stre;im  and  I'esumed  the  Joui-ney;  on  and  on 
we  sped,  and  oni'  novel  race  became  intensely  exciting.  The  day  was  now  far  s])ent  and  wo 
almost  des]);iired  of  I'cachin^  the  cache  in  tinn'  to  save  it  from  its  imminent  damper;  l)ut  with 
the  determimitiou  to  do  our  best,  v,'((  j)lied  the  paddies  with  redoubled  vi^or. 

Tluf  sun  sank  lower  and  lower  lus  we  dashed  onw.-ii'd  toward  the  mountains  wliere  tho 
cache  lay,  and  finally  the  dark  mass  of  storui-clouih;  which  overshadowed  them  bni-st  asunder 
and  rtnealiii  their  outlines  in  the  distance.  Tlu^  loni;  twiiii^ht  of  the  Arctic  snnuner  I'idl  upon 
us  as  wo  entered  tho  Hats  throuj^li  which  tho  Noiltak  tiows  before  entoring  the  mountains 
beyond. 

To  n\y  dismay,  however,  the  river  was  found  to  spread  over  the  entire  section;  a  fact 
which  i)ut  us  decidedly  olV  our  bc-iriui^s.  The  main  clniinKd,  on  the  'n.'inks  of  which  the  cache 
lay,  (!ould  not  bo  distini^uished,  an  emer^'ency  lor  which  I  was  not  j)rc]»ared,  ,'ind,  well-inj.;Ji 
overcome  with  (lisapi)ointment,  we  di-ifted  helplessly  oriw.ard,  ciriufj;  little  wh.ero  the  water's 
might  sweep  us.     In  vain  did  we  scan  the  banks  for  a  traci;  of  the  familiar  spot,  but  every 


72  t'UUlHK  OK  TUK  STEAM KR  C'OHWIN. 

nioiiiciit  our  fears  iiwrrnsftl  tluit  we  wrn-  \i>  In-  (Icxuiird  li»  i1isii|i|MiiritiiH>ii(.  Tims  wi"  drifted 
onward,  tire<l  and  (les|inni|,'nl,  when,  alioiit  a  lialf  mile  lielow,  a  elnni|>  of  willows  was  seen, 
around  and  iliroiiKli  wliieli  tlie  waters  of  I  lie  swollen  riv«r  went  waNliinK.  und,  as  a  lH>t  lio|Kt, 
the  caiioi'  was  turned  tnwai'd  it.  As  we  were  lioi'iie  swiftly  hy  I  reco>;ni/ed  the  spot,  and  with 
ai\  exehiniiition  of  joy  we  dropped  oiir  paddles  and  grasped  the  lAeihanKinK  l>on><hs  to  cheek 
th(«  mad  career  of  the  eanoe,  A  moment  later  the  precioiiH  Imrdeii  was  ItiHhed  to  the  liidarka, 
and  we  determined  to  seek  the  first  suitable  place  for  camping.  It  was  now  very  late,  and  the 
western  skies,  still  li;;litenec|  liy  the  niidni^dit  sun,  KMide(l  us  to  a  resting  place,  where  our  lon^, 
advent nious  journey  was  h.-ippiiy  at  an  end. 

The  next  morninu;  was  liriKid  and  cheerful,  a  beautiful  contrast  to  the  weeks  of  storm 
which  we  had  experienced,- ami  our  spirits  were  in  accord  with  the  day.  Thelon^aml  arduouH 
task  of  the  previous  day  i-ansed  us  to  sleep  late,  and  it  was  not  until  l()  o'clock  that  we  .saw  tim 
li>,dit  of  the  sun.  As  .scjon  as  pos.sible  all  of  our  wet  auddanwiKe<l  outfit  was  spreail  to  dry,  und 
a  few  hours  latur  t<very1hinK  wan  in  order  a^ain.  At  noon,  I  obtained  a  meridian  idt  it  ude,  and 
dnrinj^  the  remainder  of  the  day  prepared  foi-  the  continuance  of  our  journey  on  the  followinjf 
inorninj{. 

It  was  a  matter  of  conj^ratidat ion  that  we  succ(>ede<l  in  reaching  our  cache,  for,  as  1  had 
nnti<'ipate(|,  the  ri\'er  coritinueil  to  rise  during;  the  id^dit,  andaver>  few  hours  latei' would  have 
swept  jiwjiy  our  su|ppiies.  The  loujj;  race  wasoueof  exi'itenient  and  no\'elty,  and  having  litei-- 
ally  as  well  as  fi>i;urati\ely  "  saved  our  bacon,"  we  had  ample  pi'ovision  to  carry  us  to  the  coast. 
Before  starting;  next  moriun;;  we  indulKe(l  in  the  luxury  of  a  hearty  me.-d,  a  pleasure  which  we 
had  not  enjoyed  for  .snme  weeks  past. 

( )nr  path  now  lay  f  lirnii;f|i  the  nioiintaiu  district,  by  far  the  most  interest iujj  section  of  the 
river.  'I'he  pleasure  and  excitement  ofatrip  through  the  luountainscan  harilly  be  realized; 
the  narrow  defiles  anil  deep  canons,  beautiful  valleys,  and  I'ollin^  hil'  ,  iill'ord  such  a  variety 
of  scenery  that  the  eye  ne'.er  tires,  and  scene  passessceneouly  too  ipiickly.  It  was  pleiisant  as 
we  j;li(led  alouK  to  rej^anl  the  swiftly  niovinj^  banks  ;  the  "frackiu)?  line,"  toj,'ethir  with  the 
attendant  toil  and  the  iuvolunfary  baths,  were  now  thiuK^*  i>f  the  past,  and  the  genuine  comfort 
afl'orded  by  the  rellecfiim  was  fully  worth  the  weeks  of  labor  expended  in  its  attainment. 

The  rivei'  had  fallen  abuiif  eifrhf  feet  diiriuji  'h''  |"i^l  day  ;  indeed,  that  peculiarity  w.-is  one 
of  the  most  noteworthy,  showing  conclusis  j  that  the  volnmt^  is  due  entirely  to  the  rain  and 
snow  falland  not  to  a  coii.'.iMnt  supply.  Having  an  abundiince  of  time,  \\r  proceeded  leisni'cly, 
using  our  paddies  only  sufliciently  to  all'ord  steerage-way,  and  at  '■>  p.  m.  went  into  camp. 

During  the  rem.'iinder  of  the  day  we  replenished  our  lardei' with  game,  an  abundance  of 
water-fowl  being  found  on  ji  neighboring  lake.  The  weather  still  coiitiuued  stormy,  with  rain 
and  westerly  winds,  iilthoiigh  much  Wiirmer  than  that  experienced  on  the  table-lands. 

Being  desirous  of  obl;iiiiing  meridian  obsei'v.'itions  at  this  point,  we  did  not  best  iron  I'.selves 
until  late 'lextniorning  ;  meanwhile  we  employed  our  tinu'  with  necessai\v  overhauling  until 
about  ft  lock,  when!  directed  Nelson  to  launcli  the  boat  and  jn'epare  forgetting  underway. 
After  oblainiug  .•iltitudes  we  aj^ain  l.iunched  foi'lh  on  the  swift  current. 

The  Work  of  tr.neliug  w;is  now  comparatixely  light  ;  the  paddles  were  plied  easily  in  order 
to  givi^  the  cinoe  steer,ige-w':iy,  although  the  fretpient  recurrence  of  rapids  rendered  a  sharp 
lookout,  necess.iry.  .Abont  '.'  o'clnck  we  entered  the  foot-hills  of  the  range  through  which  the 
river  flows  before  its  final  enti\  into  I  he  flat  lands  below.  Late  in  t  he  exeuiug  we  gained  the  rapids 
above  the  cartons,  ami.  with  a.  common  impulse,  grasped  the  paddles  for  the  coming  struggle. 
Fiuiilly.  after  rounding  a  sharp  turn,  the  caflons  suddenly  loumed  up  ahead,  the  lofty  wallsof 
which  towei-ed  liundi'i'ds  of  feet  above  us.  Swiftly  we  wei'e  drawn  in  by  the  rushing  waters 
and  soon  gained  the  gloomy  depths  of  the  gorge.  Kvery  faculty  was  now  on  the  alei't,  for  the 
<langers  seemed  tomidtiply  .-is  we  advanced.  The  wild  rush  of  the  river,  mingled  with  the 
sci'eam  of  tins  eagles  and  the  madly  dushing  canoe,  all  contributed  to  the  excitement  of  the 
moment,. 

The  wallsof  thecauons  form  an  interesting  geological  study,  although  but  littleop]K)rtunity 
was  given  us  during  the  piissage  through  to  note  the  many  points  of  interest.  The  remarkable 
ljgur"S  formed  by  the  bent  and  twisted  strata,  api)arently  the  result  of  suniu  violent  cunvulsioQ 


CRIIIHK  OK  THK  HTKAMKU  COKWIN.  73 

of  niiturt\  Hiinj>ly  defy  <|fHcri|>ti<>M.     One  nf  (lie  wumi  iioUcohIiIi' hIkIiIn  wiv*  an  ininiotiHo  lt>(t«>f 
Z,  fonntMl <ltiiilitluHH  liyHonut  Kt'ctit  iiiiIiohv'uI  wliii-li  lnMit  tin*  stnittt  in  tlix  Nliii|Mt  ilcscrilxMl ;  tin* 

iiii^l<-s  III'  tlic  IvKcr  vv<<i'<>  well  ili'liiii'il  iinil  llii<  rnlii II'itI  hd  ,st rikin^  hs  In  rcnilcr  il.  it  niuHt. 

i-iMiiiii'kulili-  |ilit'M(iiiit'n<*n. 

Tli)<  joiiriK'y  lliron^li  tlio  cHnonM  is  iu'i'iini|ilisliri|  only  too  Hoon,  itml  iiH  wi>  tiiiully  i'Mmmx*''! 
fi'iiMi  till'  ;;liii>iiiy  ilrptlix.  with  u  ruin im mi  iniiiiiisi'  wi-  tiirni'il  tii^;i/,i>  micp  iiinri'  at  thrir  wiuiilri's, 
as  if  ti>  iiii|ii'i'ss  tiii'in  ii|miii  IIh'  ini'imii'y. 

\V'i>  li'l't  till-  ^ramli'iii-  i>l'  tlii>  iiiniiiitaiiis  lii'liiml  iis  ami  |iliiii^i'il  iiitn  that  ilrcai'y  Htri'ti'li  of 
tlat.s  llii'oii^li  wliirli  tlii>  I'ivi'i'  runs  uininst  In  tin-  sra.  ami  mir  wmk,  nn  liinKi'r'iimiiiK  tlii'Htiinn 
latiiij;  Hri'iii's  (li'MiTil)i'il.  In'canit'  ii  mi>nntMiiiiiis  ami  rlii'i-rli'ss  iluty.     At  i!  o'clnck  we  wonl  into 
(•am  1 1  for  tin'  iii!j;lit,  liaviii^'  roviTi'il  tlii'  jioflion  of  rivi'f  asci'mii'il  on  July  It,  l">.  ami  Itl.  a  far) 
wliicli  will  convi'y  an  iili-a  of  tin-  velocity  of  tlic  I'lii'iriit. 

Till"  iM'xl  morning  Nelson  was  ilispatclii'il  in  si-anli  of  K'^'in'.  an  ahiiniliviift'  of  wliirli  was 
foninl  in  tlie  vicinity.  Laixc  nnniht'i's  of  jj;i'i'si>,  dnck,  aini  wailinu;  liiiils  nest  in  this  ri'^^ioii  ainl 
I'l'inain  until  early  fall.  At  the  time  of  our  linmesvanl  journey  the  yount;  hinls  were  well 
grown  anilalVonleil  oni'of  the  greatest  luxuries  iinav;inal>le.  es)iee  tally  after  the  souiewhat  a  list  e- 
niious  diet  which  had  lieeu  forced  upon  ns  durimj,-  the  suininiT. 

One  of  the  v^i'ealest  niisfoilunes  that  liefelj  us  was  the  loss  of  our  salt,  .in  accident  which 
ucciin'ed  some  time  previous,  and  the  lack  of  which  was  keenly  felt,  it  is  one  of  the  most  iudis- 
peiisalile  accessions  to  :i  camping  outlit.  iind  Ki'<'at  cire  should  he  taken  to  have  an  ahnndiint 
supply. 

Shortly  liefore  noon  wi  a,LC;iin  lii'oke  cai.ip  and  resiiineil  oui"  way  tlii'oui,di  the  lower  wildei'- 
ness.  'I'hc  liiyh  water,  owiii),'  to  the  slill-coiitiuued  rainfall,  remlere  I  our  work  comp.'iratively 
liiflil  and  the  rate  of  speed  correspoiidin^cly  rapid,      in  its  coiir.se  throu;r|i  the  Hats  the  Noiitak, 

no  loiii,'!'! nlini'd  l»y  the  wall  of  niourdains.  spreads  itself  over  a  larj,'e  portion  cif  the  \alley.  a 

feature  that  makes  it  ditlii-nlt  at  times  to  locate  the  main  channel.     It  was  j^enerally  possihle  to 
do  so.  however,  liy  followiii^^  tlie  stron^'er  current. 

Durintc  the  afternoon  the  rain  fell  in  tMrrents.  whicli.  accompanied  hvacold  wind. created 
much  discomfort. 

The  distant  inonntains  were  covered  hy  ii  heavy  full  of  snow,  and  the  iiiehMnent  weather 
indicated  i.n  unusually  early  winter.  The  rainfall  of  the  i>as(  summer  seemed  to  lie  almost 
unprecedented:  certainly  duriiii^  my  own  experience  in  Alaska  I  never  saw  anything;  to  eipial  it. 

Late  ill  the  day  we  passed  a  native  camp.  lint,  on  account  of  the  storm,  passed  liy  without 
haltinji.  as  we  wen-  desirous  of  campiim  .several  miles  lielow. 

The  next  morninp;,  Auj^nsts,  we  determined  to  reach  the  coast  mountains,  if  possihle.  Iiefoi'e 
nit^ht.  and  accordin^lv  were  astir  ;ind  read)'  to  ino\-e  eai'ly  in  the  day.  The  portion  of  the 
river  hefore  us  was  that  covered  dnriiii^  the  tirst  week,  ii  jiei'lod  full  of  the  most  painful  recol- 
lections. 

An  ill  ready  st.ated.  the  No.'itiik  is  coiilined  to  no  definite  channel  here,  hut.  .iccordiiii^  to  tlie 
stajje  of  water,  is  sjiread  o\er  a  tract  several  miles  in  width.  In  most  porlious.  however,  there 
is  j^enerally  one  channel  tlironj^h  which  the  jj^i-outei-  \<ilnme  Hows,  and  is  indicated  mi  thecliart 
of  the  I'l'i^ion.  .\s  the  side  channels  ;ii'e  not  of  .'1,  perni.ineiit,  ch.aractei".  tliey  are  not  shown  on 
thechiiit. 

Our  journey  throni,di  was  devoid  of  any  incident  of  note.  'I'he  current  rans  from  ten  to 
twelve  miles  ;in  lioui'.  and.  !is  we  wei-e  desirous  of  j^ainin,i<oiirdestin;itioii  hefore  ni>i;ht.  we  jdied 
tliH  paddles  viiforously,  lio|)iny  to  accom|>lish  it.  At  noon  we  halted  for  lunch,  and  shortly 
after  startini^  a'.jain  jiassed  several  hidarkas  returniuLC  from  the  coast.  In  couseipieiice  of  the 
tlooded  river  ti>ey  were  pro^^ressiiu.;  very  slowly,  a  spectacle  which,  I  rej^ret  to  say,  ainnsed  ns 
exwodiuKly,  particularly  «im  we  wei-e  j^lidin;?  down  on  a  current  of  fn'ly  twidve  knots. 

A  .short  distiince  lielow  this  we  sa'.v  seveivil  .seal.  Jind  fiirtlier  down  (hey  becjune  very  alnin- 

dant.     I  cannot  express  the  sense  of  relief  .-iirorded  hy  thes"  sitjns  of  our  proximity  to  the  coast. 

Late  in  tlieday.  as  we  entered  the  hitch  lands  of  the  coast  nionnhains.  tlieerr.'iticstreaim  nonverf^ed 

into  one  channel.     The  Noatak  now  ran  parallel  with  and  directly  hehinJ  the  Mulij;ravu  Hill.s, 

H.  Ex.  15J 10 


74  CUUISK  OK  TIIK  H'I'KAMKK  COKWIN. 

till!  wi'll-ki>:)wn  liiii(liiiiirks  of  Kotssuhuo  Hoiinil,  iiml,  In-hxn  fiili^iiiMl  rrmii  our  lnii^  iliiy'H  work, 
wi*  liuiili'il  out  for  tho  lUKlit. 

Tlu>  next  <liiy  ln-inj?  Hiiinliiy,  wi«  rfiiutintMl  in  ciiiiip,  ffclinj?  tliiit  iiflfr  llif  liitnlslii|iH  hikI 
I'litiniirs  III'  llii"  wi'i'k  wi'  With  t'lililli'il  III  iiiif  iliiy  fur  limlily  ri'Ht.  AIIIihukIi  h'II'  |iri>xiinily  to 
tli*i('(MtHt  iiiiwlii  us  Hii.xidUM  to  cuiirliiili' t III' ,j<)iii'iii>y,  I  dill  mil  IVfl  wiirrunti-il  in  liri>akiii>;  tlii> 
riistmn  wliirh  Wf  liml  ulmcrvfil  iliiriiiK'  tin-  niliri'  .joiiriify. 

Till'  rnliiiwiii^'  innniiiiK.  Iiiiviiii;  riilly  ri'i'ii|M'i':ili'i|  hiu'mi-Ivi's,  wi'  iuiuIm  |in>|iariiti<iiis  I'm- iiii 
»'(ir!y  ili'piii'tiiri'.  Tlii'  ruM  iiml  i-iiiiiy  wrullii-i'  wliicli  wi-  liml  i'\|iiTii'iir«'i|  so  iiiiirnrmiy  liiirinj; 
tln' siimiiiiT  K'l^'"  iKM'viiifiici' III'  iinpriiM'iiii'iit;  in  I'lirl.  a  slmrl  tinii' iil'ti-r  ^(I'llinj;  iimlir  wnv  il 
licj^nn  In  ruin  vrry  lii'iivily,  nnil  with  its  nsniil  Hrrninpiiiiinii-ntul'  picrcinj^  wind  it  liiid  Ihi-i'lViil 
III'  lliiii'iin>^lily  rliiHiii^'  IIS. 

A  sliurt  distiiiirr  lii'liiw  tlii>  wuiiip,  uIuiik  Hh'  low.  siiiidy  Itiinks  iiI"  tlic  rivn'.  Iiimdri'ds  ol' 
1,'iTsi'  and  diirkswurtM'iinj^rt'uiilcd,  iv  si^lil  ri'i'iilliiiK  vividly  iin  (ild-fjisliidiicd  pnnllry  yard.  As 
WI'  piisst'i!  Iiy  tlii'y  manil'i'sli'd  no  alui'in  iiinrr  tliiiii  to  kiTp  up  mi  ini'i'ssani  Kal>lilin>;,  apjiart'utly 
di'WaliiiK  willi  n'pii'd  to  llu'  iiitfiilioiis  ol'  llic  slianp'-lookiriK  individiiiiis. 

PriM't'fdiii;^  down  llii'  rivn- iindfr  sail,  lor  Wf  liad  tlixwind  in  our  favor,  inpid  |pro>^nss 
was  iinidi'  for  sovcrai  lioiirs,  until  a  lii'iid  in  tlii'  river  hroiiKlit  llir  lirn-zc  alirad,  wlii'ii  tlii'  pad- 
dles were  aj^aiii  failed  into  reipiisition.  Karly  in  tlie  day  we  entered  tlie  coasl  raiiKe.  I  liroiiKli 
wli it'll  tlie  N'oiilak  Hows  lie I'lire  diseliar;;iii^'  into  Hot  ham  Inlet.  Ah  already  stated,  these  nioimt- 
aiiis  are  iiiaiked  liy  many  isolated  peaks,  most  of  whii'h  were  covered  l>y  a  heavy  fall  of  snow. 
At  noon  we  halted  for  liimdi  ;  fortiiiialely  the  rain  reased  lon^  enough  to  eiialile  ns  to  dispo.^^e 
of  it  with  some  dej^'n f  eonifort,  hut  soon  after  starting  the  weather  ussiinied  it.s  normal  con- 
dition of  p'lieral  nnplea.santness. 

Alioiit  v'  o'clock  we  entered  the  ••  home  stretch"  of  the  river  and  ea^i'i'ly  strained  our  eyes 
to  catch  the  lirsl  ;,'!impse  of  the  sea.  In  t he  distance,  on  the  opposite  .shore  of  the  inlet,  the 
ilear-ciit  headlands  stood  onl  in  hold  relief  a,y:.ii  list  t  he  eveiiinj;  sky.  The  feeliiiH:s  of  joy  and 
relief  which  rose  wit  hin  ns  fonnd  im  room  for  e.\|tressioii.  and  t  he  prospect  of  a  speedy  termina- 
lioii  of  oiir  journey,  afler  the  many  hardships  of  the  sn miner,  was  iiid I  cheeriiij^. 

As  it  was  now  Kelliii^  l.ile,  it  was  determined  to  camp  on  the  delta,  and  conclude  our  journey 
across  t lie  inlet  iu  the  morning,  in  anticipation  of  reaching.;  the  reiide/vous  in  the  niorniiiK,  we 
liroke  canii)  vei-y  early  and  launched  the  canoe  for  the  last  time  on  the  waters  of  the  No.'ilak. 

The  morniiiic  was  hri^^ht,  and  thesiin,  which  we  had  seen  .so  seldom  during;  the  summer, 
shone  out  in  a  cloudless  sky.  As  we  cleared  the  ri\er  and  entered  the  heuiitifiil  waters  ol  the 
inlet  the  scene  was  one  to  he  reniemhered. 

.\fter  taking  the  necessary  hear  in  tjs  of  the  opposite  headlands,  we  took  the  paddles  .•nid 
stood  down  the  extreme  rii^ht  outlet  of  the  river.  ( >n  either  side  and  extemliiij,'  far  out  into 
the  estuary  tlicieare  lonJ,^  Hat  harswhich  form  a  lod;;iii>;  phu  e  for  the  dehris  lii-oii^r|it  down  l»y 
the  Hoods.  The  channel  is  well  delined  and  dee))  ;  three  fathoms  of  water  are  found  tlie  entire 
distance,  and  no  dilliciilty  was  experieii I  in  lindiiiL;  the  proper  one. 

Aided  liy  the  strong:  current  which  the  Nolitak  maiiilains  to  the  last,  we  .soon  gained  the 
opposite  shore,  where  the  waters  of  the  Kowak  and  Noatak  mingle  and  How  through  a  common 
channel  into  Kot/.eliiie  Sound. 

We  now  headed  for  I  he  rendezvous,  where  1  hoped  to  ohtaiii  tidings  of  the  Conriii.  I'poii 
I'eachini;  the  ap)>oiuted  pl.-ice  we  found  the  coal  left  for  the  use  of  the  steam  launch,  to)j;etlu'r 
with  the  letter  concealed  ill  o'le  of  the  sacks.  Kroni  this  we  learned  that  the  cutter  had  j,'oiie 
to  point  Harrow,  in  coiisei|ueiice  of  which  our  stay  at  this  point  would  he  somewhat  |iriitracled. 

The  news  of  our  arrival  was  soon  made  known  amoiiL;  the  natives,  and  duriuK  the  remainder 
of  the  day  we  had  a  constant  inllux  of  visitors. 

Many  familiar  faces  were  recognized  ainoiif^  the  nuinher,  soim  f  whom  I  had  seen  the 
year  previous  on  the  Kowak.  One  friend  whom  I  knew  very  well,  Nii^-a-liik-i'iik  liy  iiaiiic. 
upon  learniiiif  that,  we  were  in  need  of  provisions,  suddenly  disappeared,  returning  .several 
hours  later  with  a  small  (iiiautity  of  8U;^ar  and  a  pound  or  two  of  whito  heans.  The  simple 
generosity  of  th^se  untutored  jieoplo  is  very  toiichiiiii:.  and.  small  as  the  gift  was,  it  displayed 


CRUIHK  (»K  'i:il<:  HTKAMKIl  (((KVVIN.  Tfi 

iikimlly  Npiiit  litwiinl  tlo'  HtniiiKiT  rrurn  wliicli  \M'.  wlm  liiivi'Kr<>itl)'t''>|>l'<"'t>i»itl<*M,  liil^lit  Icuni 

a  wlinli'MiiliH'  lrH>4ii|l  ill  linDlltllit  >'   IUhI  hi'II'  ili'lliivl. 

TliiiM  llii'diiy  |iiiNH(>(|  mill  tlii<  jinii'iipy  wiin  iit  lui  I'lid.  With  I't'cliiif^Hnl'  iiili>iiHi>  ri>lii>f  wt'  iaiil 
iIdwii  till'  liiinli'tis  mill  mivii-lii's  wliirli  luul  atlfiiilril  niir  way,  >;nil<'t'iil,  ton,  (i>v  Ilii>  iiu-asiiri'  nf 
liiiullli  ami  Hiu'ccss  wliicii  had  rcwaidcd  mir  I'tt'ni'ts. 

(IKS HUM.  \()Th:s. 
Tmk  nativk  p«)IMM,atI()N. — Cinict>rniiiK  th»«  iiativ*>  |Mi|iiilatii)ti  of  thi'  Noiltiik  IliviT  icKioii, 

tllt>  Hlllijcrt  lii'cd  lint  lit>  ilu'rlt  ll|ioll  at  h'llKtIl.  While  llli'  I'l'^ioll  lllidi'l' diHriisxiuli  is  I'lit  Irrly 
iD'w  toi<x|i|on'i's,  till'  lilr  liiHtory  of  its  |i(mi|iIi>  roiild  not  lie  treated  at  ieiiKtli  without  repeatiiiK 
iiimty  f'lK-tH  which  are  alreath'  well  known,  utid  which  in  the  |ireseiit  instance  would  lie  highly 
niidesiralile. 

My  rel'ereiice  to  the  travels  of  Hecchey  and  those  of  other  exploi'ers  since  his  time  the 
aii'oiiiils  pnlilislied  concerniiiK  the  liy|ier)iiii-eiin  races  of  .Maska  aresiin|ily  an  oft-re|N>iited  tale. 
The  coni)mi'iitively  few  iiiid  widely  sciittefed  iiilialiitanls  of  this  rej^ion  area  liraiich  of  the 

liinnit    r.'ii'e.  or  those  will cii|iy  all   that    |iiirtioii  of  the  territory  lyin^  north  of   the"      'xon 

Kiver,     ('iinsideriiiK  the  vast  extent  of  that  ref^imi,  the  |io|inlatiiin  is  (|nite  insi^niticiint,  miiii- 

lieriii;^  ul  most  Ihr ir  four  tlioiisand,  all  told.     ( )f  this  iiiiiiiher  only  a  very  small  )iercenlii'; ' 

Iteloii;^  to  the  Noiiliik  ciniiitry.  '{'he  dillictilty  of  urriviii^c  at  an  exact  estimate  of  the  |Mi|iiiliilio.i 
is  i|nite  a|i|)arent,  and  it  is  doiilitrni  whether  the  result  would  repay  the  lahor  iinolved  in 
(ilit.-iinitiK  an  actual  count. 

liike  all  tlie  northern  r;ices,  these  |ieo|ile  lead  a  nomadic  life,  cliaiiKin);  their  liase  as  often 
as  is  necessary  to  liml  fresh  hunting  mid  lishin^  i^roiinds,  Ihiriiivc  the  summer  months  a 
lar^^e  |iorlion  of  the  |io|Milation,  or  at  Icist  the  more  enter|irisin^  |iorlion,  joiirney  to  the  coast 
for  the  iiiirpose  of  Iradini;,  while  the  more  shiftless  elements  remain  in  the  villap>s  and  enjoy 
the  iloiihlfiil  lioiiMi'  of  assistiiiju;  the  wnineii  in  lishin;^.  In  civili/ed  coiiimiinities  tliist.isk 
miylit  lie  regarded  with  more  favor,  tnil,  if  the  truth  must  he  told,  the  spirit  of  chivalry  is  not 
a  prominent  characteristic  of  the  averapi  native,  und  an  individual  of  this  sort  is  not  .ipt  to  he 
regarded  liy  his  fellow-men  with  any  tfreat  ilej.;ree  of  favor. 

The  j^reater  iiorlioii  of  the  inhaliilants  reside  near  the  extreme  headwaters  of  the  river,  to 
which  place  they  repair  on  the  iijiproach  of  winter.  This  locality  is  selected  hecanse  of  (he 
peculiar  advantaj^es  it  otVers  for  hunting  und  trapping,  pursuits  which   form  their  sole  means 

of  Sllhsistelice. 

Uurinj^  the  summer  niontlis  tliey  wander  up  and  down  tlie  river,  spending;  much  of  tlie 
time  in  lishiiiK  and  providinv;  foi-  the  needs  of  the  cnniiuK  winter.  They  have  no  trilial 
orKajii/ation  :  there  is  usually  oiih  man  in  a  villaf^e  who  is  known  as  the  vomelik,  oi' chief,  hut 
he  has  none  of  ( he  aullmrity  usually  implied  l»y  the  mime,  and  practically  has  no  power  over 
the  others.  Shamanism,  or  the  rule  of  sU|ierstition,  seems  to  he  the  only  jj^overnlnj;  sjiii'it 
anions  them. 

Ill  justice  to  these  people,  liowever,  it  should  lie  added  there  is  little  need  of  aliythili;,'  of 
the  kind.  The  simple  code  of  ri^^lit  and  wroiii^  which  enters  into  their  ileitliii;;s  with  one 
another  issunicieiit  to  meet  all  the  reipiirnneiitsof  their  existence,  tiie  very  simplicity  of  which 
is  such  that  evei'y  indiviilual  fliorou^lily  understands  it  and  seldom  or  never  violates  the  ohli- 
j^atioiis  carried  with  it.  The  men  are  ^ood  fathers,  kind  to  their  wives,  considerate  of  the 
a^ei!.  and  in  times  of  need  .seldom  fail  to  iirovide  for  those  depend iii;^  upon  them.  i|ualities 
which  testify  to  the  etTectiveness  of  tlieir  simple  coile  of  morality.  To  our  shame,  however, 
it  iMUsti  he  coiit'essed  that  when  liroUKht  into  contact  with  our  lioasted  civilization  the  result 
lias  been  disastrous  to  the  native,  for  he  readily  imiiihes  the  vices,  hut  seldom  any  of  the  vir- 
tues of  our  race. 

In  |ier.son  the  Nojltak  iiutiveH  nro  niueli  taller  than  those  of  the  c<iast.  and  apparently 
unmirked  l»y  the  diseases  so  prevah-nt  amouf^  those  of  the  latter  ref^ion.  They  are  also  a  much 
hardier  [leople.  and  undouhtedly  lon;<er  lived  as  well.  The  lon>^  and  ai'duous  journeys  of  the 
suniiner.  to^^ether  with  the  life  of  exposure  while  on  their  huutin>f  trips  in  winter,  are  such  as 
call  for  the  greatest  physical  endurance,  and  they  could  not  be  performed  by  other  than  a  hardy 


T0  f'RUIHK  OF  THK  HTKAMKIl  COUWIN. 

rai'K  (if  |N><i|)|i>.  All  thiiH«<  wIkuii  wo  Hivw  lit  lliiM-iMtHt,  lNi|unKiiiK<>ii  tlio  Noiltiik,  wi>n<  pliyNicully 
iif  II  Hii|HM'i<ir  iiri|i>i',  ttmi  wlioii  hi>i>m  in  |ii'i>xiiiiity  tn  \\m>hv  HiiltjiTt  tn  tlin  (li'liitHiiiK  iiiliin-iici'H  nf 
tiit<  iilii'il.  tntilxi'x,  (III'  ciiiitnixt  was  rxully  HturtliiiK.  Aiiioii^  ilii<  iiiiiiilM>r  witc  Mi-vrnil  v<>i-y  ii|i| 
iiiuii.  wliicli,  liH  JH  wt'll  ktiiiwn,  JH  u  mr«*  nIkIiI  iuikmi^  llii<  imrtln'rii  ntn>N. 

Niitivfs  1)1' llii>  Nitiilikk  I't'^inii  lii'K  ill  ciiiistunt  loiiuiiiiiiiriilinii  wilji  tliuHr  III'  till'  Kiiwitk. 
mill  jHiMHilily  aJHii  with  fliuHc  uf  tin-   Knynknk    Ki\i'r;  llii'  liitlir   riul,  Iiuvvivit,  I   ritiiiint   t>\utv 

with  iiiiy  lU'nx of  rci'likiiity.     Knuii  their  own  iir'-iiiinlH,  thrii<  Ih  tm  rnniiiiiiiiiiiktiiiii  with  lhi> 

Cnlviili' iir  any  nthiT  rivrr  llnwiiiK  luiitlivviiri!  into  Ihi-  Antic  (►ci'iiii;  iinl I.  it  is  vi'iy  ilmilil- 

I'lil  whi'lhi'i'  Ihiit  I'l'^iiiii  in  iiihiiliiti-ij  at  all. 

Ill  till'  ii'ii'iilly  issiii'il  ri'|Mirt  ul'   Lii'iitiiuint    Uay,  I'.  H.  A iiuiTiiiiiK  liin  wmk  at    I'niiii 

Darniw,  lii>  iiiakcM  im  iiii'iitinii  nj'  haviiiu  iiiiiiiiiiiiiicali'il  with  any  nativiH  rrmn  tlir  intirinr. 
ir  any  WIT)' kiDiwn  ti)  inhaliit  thi>  viilloy  of  the  ('nlvilli>.  it.  si>i>niN  ini)i-i>  than  piiilialih' tliat  thi> 
point  Marrow  nativi-s  wonlil  havi>  soini'  kiiowirilp'  of  tin-  I'arl.  Iiiilci-il.  Ihr  liarri'ii  anil  inhuH- 
|)ifalili'  rhiirarliT  of  thai  ri'j^ioii  almost  pn'rhiilrs  tin-  iijisi  of  any  Hi'ttii-niriit  ••xisliii;;  thiTi'. 

Ill  ri'uanl  to  Ihi'  iiiiiiilM>r  inhaliitin^  the  Noi'itak  Valley,  I'stiiiiiktfH  |iri'|ian><|  t'roin  the  lit-Ht 
oltlainaliii' (lata  |i!iii'i'  llii' niiiiilN'i' at  two  hiiiiilri'il  ami  lui'iity-livi-,  wliirli  it  is  Ihoiij^rhl  f'lilly 
ciivt'i-s  till'  total  iiojiiilatioti. 

MISKKM.  HKsaCHCES. 

It  woiilil  lie  a  liillii'iiit  matter  I'or  any  oni'  nnl  hav  iii^'  a  s| ilir  know  lei  li;e  ol'  the  siilijert  to 

Htute,  with  any  ili>>;ree  of  eei-tainty,  what  minerals  iniKht  he  I'oiinil  in  the  region,     'riie  iMiixory 

nianiier  in  wliirli   th uiiitry  was  iieressarily  exainineij  as  we  jniirneyeil   tliroiit^h    it  woiiM 

lianlly  ailmil  ol' any  positive  assertion  on  llie  siili jeel. 

Htranj^eiy  enough,  we  saw  no  fviilenee  of  eoal  in  any  |iortiiiii  ol'  the  re>,'ioii.  Not witlislaml- 
iiiK  its  alMiiiilani'e  aloiiK  the  Lower  Kowak  Uiver.  we  t'oiiml  no  imliralions  of  it  aloii^'  the 
Noillak,  or  any  laml  wliieli  mi^hl  lie  presiinied  to  possess  a  coal-lieariiiK  t'ormat  imi.      1 1'  I  his  lie 

the  ease,  the  eoal-lieit,  which  was   sniiposeij    to  extellil  I'lom   the  \icinily  ol'  Cape  IJslilillie  ill  a 

southerly  iliiection  liiroiif^h  llie  territory,  is  hiokeii  in  the  valley  ol'  the  Noiilak.  In  ren;aril  to 
other  niineitiis,  especially  k*'I<I<  I  havi*  not  it  Hiitllcieiit  knowleil^;!'  of  the  siilijecl  to  make  piml 
any  assertion  concerning'  it. 

I  have  seen  ipiani  it  ies  ol'  iron  a.mon^;j  the  natives,  which  they  say  is  roiinil  aliiiiiilaiil  ly  in 
this  region,  ami  coiiceriiiiiK  the  I  ruth  of  which  I  am  alnmst  positive.  The  ^reiit  similarity  e\ist- 
in&r  lietweeii  the  inountaiiioiis  portion  of  the  cininlry  ami  other  localities  where  iron  is  a  staple 
pro<liicl  Icails  iiie  to  liclicve  that  such  is  iimloiilitcill>'  llie  case,  all hoiii;h,  with  an  iiiliorn 
slu'ewiliiess.  the  natives  steailily  rel'nse  to  iliviilj,'e  the  locality. 

F  saw.  in  the  lieil  of  the  i-iver.  i|iiantities  of  the  so-callei|  jaile.  which  in  reality  proves  to 
lie  serpentine,  ami  which  is  prolialil\  romiil  in  the  inoiinlains.  \f\  the  mil  ive  cache,  mention  nl' 
wliii  h  is  made  elsewhere,  we  fonml  a  larye  iimiilier  of  im|ilemeiits  made  ol'  the  lines!  translu- 
cent nephrite,  or  j^reenstone,  and  whiidi  nndoiilili'dly  came  I'rom  this  rejjioii.  ||  is  a.  matter  ol' 
iniicli  reK'"<'<  tli'it  I  cannot  throw  any  additional  liuld  upon  this  interesting  Huli.ject  lieyoiid  tho 
mere  mention  ol'  the  jjicl. 

Althoiijjh  the  implemenls  in  ipiestion  would  iiave  lieeii  excei'dingly  valiiiilile,  I  did  not 
feel  wiirruiited  in  luolestiiig  them, 

ORMTIIornilV. 

It  is  to  lie  r(')?rettod  that  the  time  at  my  disposal  was  not  sullicieiit  to  I'orm  an  exlcnded 
series  of  oliservations  on  this  siiliject ;  those  snlmiilled  are  merely  i  iM^mentary,  or  sindi  as  canie 
under  my  observation  while  in  the  iierformance  of  other  duties,  and  noted  at  moments  of 
leisure. 

Tlie  species  enumerated  in  tlie  followiii'.;  syno|)sis  should  not  lie  taken  as  a  complete  list, 
liut  may  at  least  serve  to  indicate  those  varieties  most  common  and  characteristic  of  the 
region. 

The  numbers  refer  to  tliose  iu  Ilidgway's  "Catalogue  of  North  American  Birds," 


OKVBE  OK  TMK  STKAMKU  (OUWIX,  77 

3    Hyloolohla  allolia /'iilrrf     (liur  cMrKKrn  Ttiiit  xii 

A  Nci'v  roiiiiiiDti  iiikI  iiiixli'i'iilt'lv  liliumliuit  ii'Niili'iit  iif  lliK  i>iitir«i  ri<Ki<»i-  N«>HtH  oitrly  in 
July,  iiiiil  ili-|NkHH  lliii  liiticr  |N»rl  of  AiikohI. 

7    Maiula  inlgiatorU  (r.<NN,  |,  .Vh'.  uhH  IHik.     Amkiiiian  Kdhiw. 

Uittliir  li'ss  niiiiii'i'oiiH.  Iiiil  iii-Hi'ly  <'i|iiiil  in  iiiiiuo  with  tlii<  |ii'c>ci'(tinK  Hp«>fioH.  (yi)iiHiit«<l 
I'liii'lly  to  till'  liiwi't'  mill  nil  Ml  II I  It  ill  mitI  imiM  ul'  llu'  li  vrr, 

9    U»»fi»toolohlm  n»vU{tlm0l.),  Ilulrit.     Vahikd  KuliiN.  ' 

A  HJnKli'  N|M'<itiii<n  *>(  tliix  lN>aiit  fill  l>iril  in  llii'  only  rcronl  olitiiiiii<i|.  I'oNMihIy  ii  Hti'itKKl<'i' 
fioin  llii<  Kovvuk  V'nilcy,  wIikii'  il  in  tiiuiii'iitlcly  iilniiiilitiit  iliiriiiK  IIh>  siiiiiidit. 

49.  Pdtiia  Hiidaonlou*  /'iiia«.     Mi'Imuni  \n  Ciin  k aukk. 

A  K'gulur  rcsiili'iit  of  tlii<  liinln'n-il  Hrition  ol'  tlit>  vHll**y;  pi^rtiuily  iniKiutoi-y  timing  tho 
wiiitur. 

148   La'illea  borealla  I'lVi//.     (Ikkat  Ndiitmkkn  Hiihikk. 

ConiniDii  ill  tlii'liiwi  ruiiil  nioiiiiliiiiKlisiritts,  iiltliou^ii  iiotHliiiuilitnt  itnywh*>n>iiitli(t  Noiltitk 

rt'ninii.     Ni'sts  ill  till'  s|iriiri'  tiinlirr. 

194.  Httuiidn  etyihiognatia  l<»i(>l.     Hahn  Hwai,i/iw. 

Kuiuiil  t>vi>i'y\vli)>ri*  in  vitiyiiiK  liliniKliiiict',  *-s|H>ri'illy  in  tint  t  iciiiity  of  the  iiliiiiiiloii*>i|  liiitH 
•  if  till'  iiiitivt's.     IIhvk  scfii  till'  iit-sts  ill  pliii'i's  iiT  lliis  kiinl, 

137.  Cotlle  rlp.4rla  ihiiiii).  Univ.     Hank  S\vai,i.u»v. 

Miiili  Ifs.siiliuiiiliint  tiiun  tiifpivcutiinK  Mpwius.  ThobunkHof  thuiiviTiiiv  not  well  mluptoii 
for  thcin, 

193>f.  Paaalioulua  anmiroheiiala  aavaiina  (IIV/m.i,  Hiili/ir.    S.w  ann.v  Mi-akkiiW. 

A|>|)^ii'i'iil  ly  Mill  aliiiiKJiiiil  ill  any  si'rlioii;  tiulril  mi  .i  I'l'W  ni-r.'isinns.  itmi  tin-  fiiTniliur  hoiik 
was  iilti'ii  liranl  wIh'Ii  llu-  siii-fii-H  was  iiol  si'i'u.     I'inlialily  a,  n'Kuliir  .Miiiniiu'r  ri'.sidcnt. 

307(1.  Zoiiotrlolita  gambeli  intermedia  llidnii'.     Intkkmkdiatk  WlllTK-ritiiWNKli  MI'akkuw. 

Nil!  I 'I  I  nil  .Mi'vi'i'ul  i>i'ciisiiinsaiuii;,'(li(«lo\vt'i-  rivrr.     A  iMNintifiil  Imt  ntitiiniil>untlantstinK«tt)r. 

308.  Zonotricbla  ooronata  {I'ull.).  Hninl.    (tiu.HK.N  r|{ii\vNi:ii  Si'Aitituvv. 

Konnil  in  IJKt  hhiiic  lociilitins  ami  almut  imjiihI  nuinhiUM  witli  tlic  )irfiiMlin^s|»t'iit«s.  A  ro).;- 
uiiir  s\iiniiii'r  rt'sitlcnt,  nesting;  in  tlic  Iiu.hIich  ulonj^  f  in'  liuiiks. 

373.  Scolecoph.igtia  fernigiiieua  I'i'm.).  Siniiim.     UlsTY   l!l,AtKlilHl>. 

A  small  llofk  wiis  uliscrvfil  almin  tlu'  lnwt'r  rivrr  mi  mii>  ocrasioii;  possilily  only Htrag^hti'H 
frmii  I  111'  Kowak  Valli'y.  wiitTo  tiu-y  aif  imiiiciati'ly  aliiimlant. 

380.  Cotvua  ootax  oariiivorua  (Uiirlr.).  Hi(l(iii\     Amkrica.n  Kavkn. 

A  niiiiii'i'alrly  aliiiiiijant  I'i'siili'iit  of  tlif  fiitiri' rfj.fimi.  Ni-sts  in  llut  sprncc  tiiiilii'i'  almiK 
till)  riviT  liaiiks,  ami  is  partially  niii;ratmy  iliiriiiLj  tin-  winter. 

397^.  Perlsoreua  caiiadenaia  fiiniifroiia  UiiUjif.    .SMuKY-l''itii.N'rKii  Jav. 

A  siuiiint'i'  ri'siilimt  of  tim  tinihftrtttl  ilislrict.  and  notwl  on  Htn'tTuI  or(^a.sioiis  in  the  vicinity 
of  our  camiisfmlfavorinj^to  follow  Its  pilf.'riii^  instincts.  MijfralcsloSmitlicni  Alaska durinj.? 
tilt'  svi liter  season. 

383.  Ceryle  aloyon  (/,/»».).  /Jn/c.     Hki.tk.d  KtNiiKlHHF.H. 

A  vtM'y  rare  simimei'  resilient;  pussilily  mily  a  sti'a^culer  from  the  rewi"!'  '>•'  tho  Kowak. 

406.  Nyctea  soandiaca  [Linn.),  Neirt.    Hndwy  Owl. 

Api>aveiitly  not  ahumlaiit,  at  least  it  (lid  not  fall  nmler  my  observation  excopt  at  rare 
intervals.     Uudoubtodly  a  resident  dnring  the  entire  year. 


78  CRUISE  OF  THE  STKAMER  CORWIN. 

420.  Tunnlnculua  sparverlus  {Liiiii.).  V'icill.    HrAitiiow  Hawk. 

Moi'oor  loss  iil>iiii(liint  tliroii^l-.Dut  tho  rcKi''".  l»iit  |)riiK'i|)(illy  in  tlio  inountaiu  districts. 
Nosts  iilxnit  the  iiiiilillc  of  July. 

430.  Circus Hiidscnlus  (/.ni II.),  \'iiill.     Marhii  Hawk. 

KiMiiid  ivl)iiii<'.iiitly  ailing  llic  lower  I'ivcr;  quite  (Miiniuoii.     Ni'st.s  in  the  spruco  timlici'  early 
in  July. 

447.  Archibuteo  lagopus  Sancti-Johaiinis  ifi'//ii7. 1,  liiiliin:     .X.mkiui'an  Koi'dil-l.KiKiKK  Hawk. 

Noted  ill  several  iiist-uiees.  and  tlie  nests  found  in  two  instances,  along  tlie  loui  r  river.     A 
regulai'  migrant  to  Nortliern  Alaska. 

491.  Haliaeetus  leucocephaliis  (l.iiiii.).  Surii/.     Hai.d  Kaiii.i:. 

A  I'egidar  snniiner  resident  ;iiid  nesting  coinnionly  'n  the  inoiintain  districts.     Tlie  most 
common  bird  of  prey  in  tlie  region. 

474.  Lagopub  ^Ibua  (O'm.).  Ami.     Wii.i.ow  I'TMtMKlAN. 

Found  commonly  in  pairs,  liut  apparently  not  aliui  .liint  in  any  locility.     A  resident  ol'  the 
mountain  and  tahle-land  district.     The  young  are  fleilged  ahont   the  middle  of  July. 

513.  Squatarjla  Helvetica  {Linii.\.  Ciir.     Iti.ACK-iiKi.i.ii'.D  I'lovkii. 

A  coiiimon  resident  of  every  part  of  this  region,  usually  found  in  pairs,  and  nests  in  every 
locality. 

514.  CharadriuB  pluvialis  l.iiiii.     (im.DKN   I'l.ovi'.K. 

A  small  llock  ol)served   in'ar  t lie  extreme  jioinl    reaidieil  is  the  only  record  in  the  region. 
They  proliauly  nest  in  the  far  north. 

517.  .Sjgialites  semipalmatus /^iiKiyi.     Skmiivm.mvti'.d  I'l.nVKit. 

Observed  commonly   in  pairs  throiigiiont  the   lower  river  districts.     Nest  on  the  sand  or 
gravel  hanks  early  in  July.     They  are  not  un  ahmiilant  spe<'ies. 

527(1.  MacrohatnphiiB  griseus  soolopaoeus  (.s'l///).  ('inns.     Ki'.n  iti;i.i.ii:ii  SMrK. 

A  very  Mhiiiidaiit  species  on  the  upper  portion  of  the  river.      Al't^     the  nesting  season  they 
associate  in  large  tlocks  and  migrate  the  latter  part  of  August. 

538.  Aotodromas  miuutilla  (IVciW.),  lij).     I.k.vst  .Sankimi'ek. 

Found  throughout  the  i-egion,  cliietly  in  pairs.  l)iit  n  it  ahniulant  anywhere  ;  nndouhti'dly  a 
regular  resident. 

541.  Breunetes  puBilluB  (IJini.).  f'li.sx.    Skmicai.matki)  SAM>rMi;u. 

A  moderately  aluindaiit   wader,  found  chielly  along  the  lower  ri\er,  ;iiid  nesting  wherever 
found. 

542.  Calidris  arenaria  (/-/»».),  ////;/.     .SANnmu-lNii. 

Ohservjul  on  several  occasions  along  the  gravelly  hanks  of  the  lower  ri\er.     .\p|)arently  a 
summer  resident,  although  ii'regularly  distiilniteil. 

549.  Totaiius  flavipes  ((/i/ir/.),  I'/Vi'//.     Yki.Low-i.hcis. 

A  noisy  denizen  of  the  marshes  a'ong  the  lower  rivei-,  not   extending  into  the  monntaii; 
district.      Nests  in  the  marshes,  and  is  easily  known  hy  its  iieciiliai'  liahits. 

559.  NunieiiiuB  HudsoiilcuB  IaiIIi.      Mciisoman  t'lm.EW. 

^^  n  .■i.hnndant  Species  on  the  Upper  river.      In   the  fall    they  resort    to  the  const   region   in 
lai'ge  flocks  previous  to  migration. 

560.  NumeniusboreallB  (/•'()^.•^^), /..((//i.     Kskimo  Cciu.KW. 

This  species,  together  with  the  red-bellied  snipe  ami  the  Hud.soniai:  curlew,  forms  t!ie 
three  most  ahuiulaut  s])ecios  characteristic  of  the  i-egioii. 


CRUISE  OF  THE  8TEAMER  t'OKVVIN.  79 

384.  Orua  fraterculua  ( Vi.s.s.     Littlk  Crane. 

A  liitlitT  liui'  icsiili'iit  1)1"  tilt-  Noiitak  ri'j^ioii.  tiiid  priiu'ipally  aloug  tliu  lower  river. 

588.  Olar  Amcrioanus  (ShriritleHu).  Il/i.     Wiiisri.isii  Sw.vn. 

A  siimll  tlock  (»))SL<rvml  neiir  tho  dultii  i)f  tlic  river  in  tlm  only  record  obluiiiud.  Notahun- 
diiiil.  lint  a  rcj^iil.'U'  sununiT  resident.. 

593'(.  Aiisei  albifroiis  gambell  I //((»•//.).  Cinirs.     A.MKUU  AN  Wihtk-FKdNTKD  (ioosE. 

Koiinil  .liniii.sl  c.sclii.sivt'ly  iilnng  tim  lowci'  aiid  iiiarsliy  si'ctiim.s  ul'  (lie  river,  where  it  is 
very  aluiiiilaiit. 

S94^.  Beniiclila  caiiadeiisis  leuooparla  (HrmiiU).  i  Vi.sk.     WiirrK-ciiiCKKKii  ( inosK. 

An  aliunii.int  sinnnicr  resiili-nt  of  the  entire  region,  and  nesting;  wherevei-  found. 

605.  Daflli  acuta  (/,/i/;(.),  Uniiiij).     I'lNTAn.. 

A  moderately  alnindant  speeies,  found  along  every  ixjrtiou  of  tho  river.  Ne.sts  in  every 
section  among  the  nuirsliy  lund.s. 

607.  Maieca  Americana  (^/mc/.),  .SYi'/i/i.     Hai,i>1'atk. 

Oliserved  singly  or  in  pairs  everywhere  along  the  river.     Saw  yonng  birds  ahont  midille 
of  .Inly. 
612.  Nettioii  Carolitieusia  (r/mi/.).  Ilninl.     (iUKEN-wiNiiEl)  Tkau 

A  summer  resident  of  the  fresh-water  ponds  and  marshes  near  the  coast.  Not  an  alnui- 
dant  species. 

620.  Clangiilaglaucluni  Americana  (/{/).).  Itiilijir.     .Amkkica.n  (ioi.nKN-icvK. 

A  single  pail' observed  iili  t  he  lower  rivei' are  the  oldy  I'epi'csentatives  of  this  species  I  liMVe 
ever  seen  ill  Alaska.      I'ossilily  they  may  have  been  only  stragglers,  and  are  e.\t  reniely  rare. 

628.  Somateria  V.  nigra  (Irnji.    I'acikic  Kii>i;u. 

A  siiif^li' specimen  iif  the  male  bird  .seen  about  three  hnmlred  miles  above  the  mouth  of 
the  river  is  the  only  record  obtained.  I'robalily  a  straggler  only.  1  was  not  aware  that  tiiey 
evi'i'  left  I  he  sea-coast. 

637.  Mergiis  serrator  hiiiii.     Rki>-iikeastk|)  Shkldkakk. 

A  moderately  abundant  species,  foil  mi  along  the  entire  river.     Ni'sts  aliout  the  lirst  of  .In  lie. 

660   Larus  glaiiciiB /</■'  (il.Al'iois  (ill.l,. 

( )bser\i'<l  thnuulioiit  the  river  region  in  varying  abiiii(hinee:  principally.  JKjwever,  along 
the  lower  portion. 

663.  Lanis  glaucescena  Lirlil.    (li,Arcois-wiN<a:i)(ii  i,i.. 

In  the  .same  localities,  but  rather  more  abuiidanl  than  the  prececiing  species.  Nests  along 
the  river  eai'ly  in  .July. 

675.  Lania  philadelpilice  (On^(.  ilrtiji.     I?onaiv\i<TK's  Oci.i,. 

Noted  on  .several  occasions  near  the  month  of  the  Noiltak;  not  abundant,  but  undonbtedly 
a  regular  migrant  to  tliis  section. 

687.  Sterna  macrura  .Vinni.     Aitcni' Teun. 

\  Very  abninlant  species  .-iloiig  the  river.  .-iikI  nesting  wherever  found. 

698.  StercorariuBCrepidatua  (//iniA'.v. ).  X'iiilt.     Ill'    '  vudson's  .I.KOEIt. 

Not  abundant  in  any  section,  Iml  undoubtedly  a  inigranl  to  !lie  far  north. 

639    Stercorariua  parasiticua  l/.,i«ni.).  Siiiiiiilerx.     1,ono-taile1)  Ji«(iEK. 

Observed  singly  or  in  pairs  everywhere  along  the  river.     A  regular  resident,  but  not  an 

aiiMiidant  species. 


80  CRUISE  OF  THE  STKAMEU  COKWIN. 

737.  Colymbus  Adamsi  (I'lYi//.    (iukat  Wiiitk-bii.lii:!)  LooN. 

Sovi'iiil  s|*r(iiiiciis  of  tliis  hi'iiiitirul  divur  wen?  noti-d  on  tlii'  Iowlt  river,  whero  they  are 
ro^ulur  siinnnor  rosidoiits;  not  iilniiidivnt. 

738.  Colymbus  arcticus  Linn.     1!i,a('K-tiiii(>atki>  Divek. 

A  inodtM'iilcly  iilumdiinl  spciMcs,  coiifmcd  toilic  iiiiirslics  itiid  lakes  lyiiijj;  oil'  tlic  niiiiii  river 

SAMUKL  R   McLKNKXIAN.  II.  S.  K.  M.. 

Hecond  vl.sAt'i/tni/  KiKjiiivfr,  I'.  S.  S.  Coririu, 


isr  O  T  E  s 


ON  THB 


NATURAL  HISTORY  AND  ETHNOLOGY 


ov 


NORTHERN   ALASKA. 


BT 


CHARLES    H.    TOWNSEND. 


H.  Ex.  153—11  81 


INTRODUCTORY    I.KTTER. 


I  wfis  taken  on  Ijoanl  thn  Unit('<l  States  Nti-aiiicr  Cnririii  at  St.  Paul's  Island,  Bering  Sea, 
on  June  'il,  Ihf!"),  and  lwelv(^  days  later  (on  July  >')  was  landed  at  Kot/cliue  Sound  witli  a  party 
ill  ciiarKe  of  Lieut.  J.  C.  Cautwell,  to  explore  the  Kowak  River,  whieli  is  iniinediately  nortli 
ol' and  almost  j)ai'allel  with  the  A i'eti<' circle  in  Northern  Alaska. 

1  iuul  been  at  St.  Paul's  nearly  three  weeks,  having  heen  sent  to  .Alaska  hy  the  United 
Stivte.s  Commissioner  of  Fisiieries  to  gather  certain  data  re.spectinj?  seals,  cetaeeans,  the  fish- 
eries, (fee,  whicli  I  I'esei've  for  puhlication  elsewhere.  I  had  arrived  there  \>y  the  Alaska,  Coin- 
luereial  Company's  steamer  .S7.  I'did.  'I'he  oppoiM  unity  >>(  accompiiM\  inu;  t  he  ( 'onriii.  all'or(led 
tliroUfj;h  the  courtesy  of  Captain  Healy,  was  one  which  1  K^'dly  a\  idled  luyselt  of.  as  it  enabled 
me  to  visit  a  remote  ami  usually  inaccessible  region. 

The  ('(inriii  called  at  St.  Michael's,  (lolovin  Bay,  Port  Clari'iice.  ;iii<l  Cape  Prim f  Wales 

on  her  way  to  the  Arcti(s  and  laboriously  pushed  her  w.iy  Tor  many  hours  tlirouKli  <lrift-ice  to 
I'lltel'  Kotzebue  SoUIi'l. 

Our  party,  consistinfi  of  liii'uteiiant  Caiitweil.  William  M.irsh.  and  Krederic  l^ewis,  sea- 
men from  the  Ciiririii,  myself,  anil  Myninck,  the  interpreti'r,  remained  on  the  Kowiik  Hiver 
nearly  two  months — from  July  'I  until  AuH;ust  •l'\ — diirin;^  which  linu'  I  olilained  as  nuiny 
zoidoj^ical  s|)ecinnuis  as  our  limited  facilities  and  peculiar  sui'roundinffs  permitted.  The  object 
of  the  trip— tin*  exploration  and  discovery  of  tiie  snuree  of  the  river  —was  aceumplislied. 

lteturiiin<^  soutiiward  in  the  fall,  in  addition  to  callin;^  anain  at  those  places  visited  on  the 
northward  trip,  the  vessel  nuulo  stops  at  SchisnuirelV  luli'l,  in  the  .Xi'dic  ()cean.  and  at  Hall's 
Islaml,  in  Bering  Sea,  at  all  of  whi(di  natural  history  specimens  werc>  obtained  in  ^jreiitei' or 
less  numbers. 

The  (U)nrin  lanihvl  moat  St.  Paul's  Island  on  Septi'uilier  io,  where  1  remaiue(l  a  month 
before  taking  the  homeward-bound  vessel  of  the  Alaska  Coiumercial  Company.  A  delay  of 
nearly  two  wei^ks  at  ( )unalaska  was  pi'oductivtMif  niucii  interesting  ornillidhigical  material. 
The  steamer  Dora  arrived  at  Saii  Francisco  on  Nt.vemlier  s. 

1  must  express  my  indebte<lness  to  the  Alaska  Commerci.il  Company  of  San  Francisco, 
and  to  Capt.  M.  .\.  Healy,  United  States  Revenue  .Marine,  for  the  faciiitii's  I  enjoyed  in  my 
Work  in  Alaska.  I  received  courteous  treatment  at  the  iuinds  of  the  otlicers  and  agents  of  tiie 
(■o!u|>any,  as  well  as  the  otlicers  of  the  Cnnriu.  Lieutenant  Cantwell  was  ahva>s  ready  to  aid 
in'  while  on  the  Kowak  Rivi'r.  .Mr.  Kidgway.  of  the  Smith.soiiian  institnliou,  kindly  gave 
me  the  beautiful  jilate  reiiresentiiig  I'/crl nipliriia.r  lii/i)nhiircii.s.  Mr.  L.  .M.  'i'lirner  revise  d 
my  spelling  of  Kskinio  bii-d  luiiues  according  to  tin'  rides  Laid  down  in  Professor  Powell's 
(luide  to  the  Study  of  Indian  Languages;  .iiid  Dr.  ( ieoi-ot.  Vnsey.  botanist  at  the  Department 
of  .\griculture.  identilieil  the  few  plants  that  1  was  .ible  to  collei-i. 

A  colh^'tion  of  llowering  plants  obtjiined  on  the  Xoiitak  River  ii\-  .Mr.  Mci.,enegaii.  and  on 
the  Kowak  by  Mr.  Cantwell  and  myself,  has  been  mislaid  or  lost,  as  it  in'ver  reached  Wash- 
ington. Mr.  McLenegan  kindly  gave  me  some  notes  on  birds  collected  by  him  on  the  Lower 
iCowak  in  ISSl,  but  I  have  not  u.simI  them,  having  decided  to  let  the  |iresent  i)aper  stand  as  a 
record  of  personal  observations  and  cidlectioiis. 

ClIARLFS  H.  TOWNSENl), 
A.ssistaut,  I'liiti'd  Shilcs  Fi.sli  CoiniHifiNion. 

Smithsonian  Institution,  June  25,  bsisi;. 

83 


NATURAL  HISTORY  AND  ETHNOLOGY  OF  NORTHERN  ALASKA. 


THE  KOWAK  RIVER  REGION. 

It  is  liK'^xl  Airtif  day's  journey  ii»  a  steam-launch  up  Hothain  Inlet  to  the  Kowak  mouth, 
for  tiiere  is  scarcely  more  than  an  hour's  darkness  at  the  beginning  of  July,  and  as  the  waves 
run  pretty  high  when  the  wind  Mows,  the  heavily  loaded  launcii  hugs  the  windward  shore  for 
safety.  Plenty  of  water  birds  are  met  with  along  here.  Surf  ducks,  loons,  white-fronted  and 
white-(  heeked  geese  kee])  swinuning  out  of  the  way  of  the  boats,  and  a  few  Triiu/ce  run  along 
siiore  or  keei>  just  aheful  l»y  shoi't  flights. 

This  west  shore  consi.sts  of  narrow  beach,  behind  which  ri.ses  an  irregular  line  of  low 
l>luffs  that  shut  off  the  view  of  the  treeless  tundi'a  peninsula  sejmrating  the  inlet  fnmi  Kotze- 
i)ne  Sound.  An  occasional  raven's  croak  calls  attention  to  his  black  form  perched  u])on  a  bank, 
and  the  osprey  or  some  other  hawk  fre<(uently  announces  its  presence  by  some  falconine  call 
as  it  pa.sHeH.  The  buslies  dinging  to  the  bluffs  harbor  a  few  white-crown  and  savanna  .fpar- 
rows,  and  some  jitarmigan,  in  inottled  summer  plumage,  may  be  flushed  from  among  the 
whortleb,)rry  bushes  (  racc/«/M/«)  growing  amid  the  sjihagnum  of  the  tundi'a.  A  few  mice 
(Arvit'ol(i)  are  found  in  the  drier  situations. 

In  the  delta  of  the  river  a  stray  kingfisher  or  an  anxicms  goose,  hurrying  her  brood  of  half- 
grown  young  under  (he  overhanging  willow  verdurt*  of  the  banks  for  concealment,  are  about 
the  only  signs  of  life,  for  the  channels  are  narrow  and  the  view  is  shut  off  completely.  Polar 
hares  are  met  with  along  lnu-e.  Farther  up  the  scattered  spruces  (Ahie.s)  ctmw  in  .sight  to  vary 
the  monotony,  or  a  widening  out  of  "the  river's  wooded  reaches"  affords  a  glimpse  of  some 
(li.stant  rocky-topiH'd  elevation  which,  by  reason  of  the  meanderings  of  the  stream  through 
the  lowlands,  shows  alternately  to  jutrt  and  starV)oaril. 

Above  the  many-channeled  delta  the  Kowak  a.ssumes  a  different  character.  High  banks 
of  old  ice  and  clay  appear,  bearing  a  thin  coat  of  surface  soil,  which  supports  the  stunted 
Arcti(!  growth  of  white  spruce.  The  banks,  undermined  by  the  melting  of  their  a:)cient  icy 
suli.stratum,  often  slide  in  massive  sections  into  the  river,  carrying  a  wide  niargin  of  forest 
with  them.  In  many  ])laces  navigation  is  impeded  by  earth-aiu^hored  sjiruce  snags.  Sonu>- 
tiiues  cavernous  holes  are  excavated  as  the  gritty  ice  disappears,  and  the  overarching  mass  of 
earth  hangs  ready  to  fall  when  a  few  more  hours  exposure  to  the  incessant  Arctic  sunshine 
shall  have  set  it  free.  These  banks  are  too  icy  to  be  tvuineled  by  kingfishers  or  bank  swal- 
lows, con.seiiuentiy  svich  birds  are  scarce  along  tht«  lower  river. 

There  are  many  extensive  .santl-liars  in  the  Kowak  at)ove  the  delta,  where  cranes,  a  few  gulls 
and  terns,  and  some  l(>ast  sandpipers  and  semi-palmated  plovers  congregate  to  feed  and  sun  them- 
selves. Bears  ami  the  smaller  fur-bearing  animals  leave  many  tracks  here,  and  on  the  sand- 
liars  furtlii'i"  ni)  we  saw  reindeer  tracks.  An  occasional  spruce  along  shore  is  topped  with  the 
bulky  nest  of  the  fish-hawk. 

Although  spruce  forest  exists  to  a  greater  or  less  extent  in  all  parts  of  the  Kowak  River 
region,  there  is  no  regularity  about  its  disti'ibution;  a  hundred  miles  or  more  above  salt  water, 
where  the  river  runs  near  the  hilki,  the  forest  is  (juite  heavy,  but  where  the  course  is  through 
level  country  the  river  is  bordered  by  mossy  tundra  jilains,  usually  treeless. 

Excellent  whortleberries  grow  in  all  parts  of  the  country,  and  are  eaten  greedily  by  wild 
geese  and  cranes  as  well  as  all  the  smaller  birds.  I  suspected  the  robins  and  varied  thrushes 
of  eating  the  currants  which  grew  plentifully  iu  all  thickets  near  the  river.     Flowers  of  beau- 

85 


Sr^  CRUI8K  OF  THK  STEAMKK  CORWIN. 

tiful  tints  were  fmind  spriiiKinj^cvcrywhoi'o,  HHtlioii^h  thoy  oxpootoil  tlin  inidniKlit  hiih  tosliiuo 
cm  tliom  l"(in<vt'r,  uml  liml  lost  all  niciiiory  of  iln'  snow  and  durkncss  ol'  llit   uortlicrn  wiiitfr, 
Some  of  tho  coniinontst  plants  and  tlowurs  uf  thu  Kuwak  in  July  and  Aiigust  are: 

Ac(tiiifiii)'  Xiificlhi.s,  \j.  Mnosoti.s  niflntticii,  Holl". 

NuNtiirfiinii  jxilKslrc,  1),  C,  Allimii  S<li(i'iit)i)riiniiiii,  L. 

Pofciiniii  Sitclifiisc.  H.  W.  Junrnn  stimhiH,  L. 

Sn.vifr(tf/(i  Ilimtlii.s,  L.  Varcv  Mvrtiu»ii,  Priw. 

Sit.vifnKjd  h'licinithciiiifolia  var.  Bru-  Aypi>li\iiii  fraiintUH,  Swartz, 

iioiiiiiiKi,  T.  <!t  (J.  llfiliisiiniiii  hotcdic,  Nntt. 

Epilohiuiii  fif)ir(ititiii.  Lam.  Ifuhiin  (trcficn.t,  L. 

Gnliii>ii  horcdfc.  L.  Achilli-a  Millcfolimu,  L. 

But  Honu'  that  were  in  bloom  wlit'ii  we  first  entered  the  river  were  rejjluced  by  others  Inter 
ii!  the  season. 

The  Northwestern  Kskinio,  or  Innuits,  althouKh  chiefly  a  coaift  peojile,  live  also  on  tin- 
rivers  of  the  rejj^ion.  On  tlie  Kowuk  their  ciituijs  and  habitation.>  are  scattered  irregularly 
along  flu?  low(>r  two-thirds  of  its  coiirsc,  hut  in  summer  huntin^if  parties  range  up  *o  its  vei-y 
headwaters.  The  jiursuit  of  the  reindeer  Hometimea  leads  huntttrs  far  inland;  in  fact,  the 
majority  of  the  ubler-bodied  men  :ip|M'ar  to  s|>('nd  the  short  summer  in  the  ]>ursuil  of  game  in 
the  interior,  while  the  youtiis.  children,  and  old  men  I'emaiuon  the  lower  river  with  the  womi-n. 
whose  duty  it  is  to  gather  in  the  ichthyological  harvest  atl'ordeil  by  the  annual  salmon  run. 
They  often  mak(>  temporary  camps  well  up  stream,  where  thei'e  are  suital>li>  seining  grounds, 
hut  their  earth-covered  winter  houses  are  usually  at  no  great  distance  from  the  sea.  Winter 
houses  or  •"iglus"  are  eonstructe(l  of  s])rnce  sai)lings  set  upright  in  the  grouiul  close  together, 
in  the  forui  of  a  sipiare.  four  posts  sui)porting  the  arched  I'oof.  which  is  also  of  light  sajdings. 
A  hole  in  the  top  serves  for  chimney  and  ventilator.  The  entire  structui'e  is  covered  with 
earth,  and  .vlien  dcsci-teil  foi-  a  year  or  two,  and  overgrown  with  grass  and  mosses,  looks  like  a 
mound,  i.lentitieil  as  having  been  a  human  habitation  only  l)y  sonu'  tumble-down  (ish-racks 
on  the  •■iver  bank  near  by.  or  the  withered  form  of  a  raven  stm^k  upon  a  pole. 

There  is  an  iibundant  su])]ily  of  food-lishes  in  the  Kowak  region,  sidmon.  trout,  grayling, 
pike,  and  whitcfish  being  the  conimonest  species.  The  natives  take  them  in  seines,  which  are 
made  by  the  women  from  tibers  of  roots  gathered  along  the  river  banks  wherever  they  are 
exposed  by  the  breaking  away  of  the  eartii.  These  seines,  which  iire  usually  not  moi'e  than  a 
yard  in  width  an<l  vary  in  length  from  thirty  to  (ifty  feet,  are  sti'ong  and  durable,  but  would 
not  hold  a  very  heavy  haul  of  salmon.  They  are  fitted  with  wootlen  Hoats.  the  sinkers  being 
made  of  reindeei-  horn.  In  seining,  which  is  always  done  in  shallow  wati'r,  one  end  is  carried 
along  shore  by  t lie  children,  the  s([uaws  towing  the  other  end  down  stream  in  a  large  bii'ch 
canoe  or  a  seal-skin  boat,  kee])ing  it  out  as  far  as  the  length  of  the  seine  permits.  Large  num- 
bers of  salmon  are  taken  in  this  way.  and  after  being  split  ojM'n.  are  dried  ui)on  i)oles  in  the 
sunshine,  a  food  snjjply  again.st  that  timt*  when  "Mighty  Pelxiau.  the  Winter."  slnill  seal  n|) 
the  friendly  river,  drive  oft'  the  wild  fowl,  and  cover  over  '"all  the  Northland"  with  his  mantles 
of  snow  and  darkness. 

I  expecteil  to  find  the  snowy  owl  and  the  hawk-owl  on  the  Kowak,  hut  saw  nothing  of 
them,  although  I  kej)'  a  bright  lookout. 

There  are  several  other  si)ecies  rather  widely  distributed  northward,  such  as  the  ouzel. 
d(jwny  woodpecker,  flicker,  pine  grosbeak,  crossbill,  &c.,  that  might  be  expected  as  .stragglere, 
but  wens  not  nu't  with. 

Then!  are  high  ranges  of  hills  between  this  region  and  the  Yukon  over  which  migrating 
birds  doubtless  have  t(  >  oass.  As  the  following  jjages  show,  some  of  the  commonest  birds  of  the 
United  States  breed  re<>  ai/irly  ir  this  remote  and  d»>solate  region.  It  is  comforting  to  find  robins, 
whitecrown  s|)arrows.  \y  ik-s  :!ows.  kingfishers,  and  othei' well-known  and  dearly  loved  home 
birds  following  one's  meanderings  even  beyond  the  Arctic  Circle.  It  inspires  thoughts  of  lutnie 
and  creates  a  warmth  at  the  heart. 

Zoological  colic  \ig  is  not  easy  woi'k  in  a  countr;,  such  as  that  drained  by  the  Kowak 
River.     We  traveled  iu  ■■   mall  steam-launch,  heav  ly  loaded,  with  a  boat  full  of  natives  and 


SALMON      BERRY 


COHWIN  1805 


QHV IH K  « I K  r I  r  K  ST K A  M  K |{  CO K \V  I N .  .  87 

Hit|i|iIt«M  ill  t<nv,  HO  tlmt  vi'ry  fXtfriMivo  (•(illcctioiiH  cmilil  not  Iw  )iiu>H|M)it»'(I.  Tlmn*  wiim  miK-h 
riiitiy  wctithiT.  iMiikiiiK  it  ditfli'iilt  to  collect  ivs  wi>ll  uh  to  dry  l>ii'il-Hkii>M,  liixl  tli«  mo.s(|uito 
|ila)^uc  witM  iilwitys  ii  si'I'Ioiih  ilniwhiirk  in  I'liir  witiillitT  imlt'ss  tli<'rt<  whh  li  lir<>«'/,t>  lilowiiiK  to 
icsKcn  tlic  t'orco  of  tin' ntlin-k.  \Vi>  w(»lconn«{|  tlin  uccaMidiiiil  cliilly  diiyM  lliiil  niivi- im  i'('H|iil(< 
from  nioH<|iiito  piTHt'ciition.  OtluTwintt  wo  wen'  coiuiH'lltMl  to  svcur  li  routing  of  tar  liixl  car- 
))oli/.fil  oil  on  our  fivi-<<H  iiixl  liiiiids  for  dayn  lof(rl)it>i-,  until  tlic  ft'vorixh  imd  .sniiirtin^  nkin 
di'iniindiMl  its  rt'itioviil.     Daily  ulilutionN  nndi'r  mucIi  circiinistancKH  could  not   of  ronrtw  Ihi 

ind\ilKi'<i  ill. 

i'rolon^t'd  rainlili'H  hack  from  tli«  river  arc  inipraciicaltlf,  nii  act'otiiii  of  IIk'  <'xllallstin^ 
lalior  of  h'anipinK  IIirouK''  tli''  Imtnniocks  and  inosn  of  the  tundra,  or  frozen  inoras.s.  The 
NpliaKninn  tundra  ^r'owth  is  onini)n'esenl,  extending  even  up  ou  tlie  mountaiuH,  and  forniH  a 
heavy  coveririK  for  tlie  if»»  wliieli  in  t<v«'rywiuire  iMMieath  it.  MoMs-coveted  liuniinoekH  Htand  .so 
clo.se  iiK  to  pnsent  a  false  level  a  "s|ion>{y  tlusli,"  as  .lolin  Mnii-  describes  it  throu><li  which 
one  is  constantly  lireakinn.  fre(|ueiitly  sinking  thiKh  deep  in  the  icy  water  underneath,  of 
winch  the  (lower-dotted  surface  ^^ives  no  indication. 

in  addition  to  these  "slij^ht  drawhacks"  in  the  way  of  natural  history  collecting  in  .Maska_ 
one  (inds  thai  fragile  specimens  have  a  perverse  way  of  j^ettin^  trodden  upon  in  the  lioats,  and 
the  Hacchanalian  native  exhiliits  lietimcs  an  untoward  ilesire  |o  use  the  alcohol  in  the  lish-tank 
as  a  lu'veraKc,  from  which  he  must  needs  he  i'estraine<l,  lest  the  ichthyo|o>;ical  specinieMH  ho 
glinted,  to  their  detrinn>nt.  Indeed,  at  St.  Piuil's  IhIiukI,  oin*  iiiKht 'in  Heptemher,  u  couple  of 
Aleuts  liroke  into  the  building  wher<-  my  alcohol  was  kepi,  for  the  purpose  of  stealing  some 
and  accidentally  set  tire  to  it.  in  their  ell'orts  to  put  out  the  lire  their  liands  were  frijrhtfnlly 
burneil.  Tliis  loss  conipelle<l  me  to  put  my  HpecimeiiN  on  sliort  allowance,  and  to  collect  with 
iliscriniination  diirin^^  the  rest  of  the  .season. 

It  is,  however,  ((uiti'  unnecessary  for  me  to  write  furthei'  of  the  general  fealui'(>sof  thw 
Kowak  country,  as  Lioutoiiunt  Ciintwell  discusses  the  .sul)ject  very  fully  in  liis  narrative  of 
the  voyugo. 

MAMMALS. 

Ranglfer  taraiic.  >■  grcenlandlou*  {Krrr).     Ukindkkk. 

Iteindeer  skin  appears  to  he  the  principal  material  used  for  clothin^f  by  the  natives  of  the 
Kowak  Hivcr  r'ej^ion.  Init  judKin^  from  the  numher  of  "pieliald"  j^arments  we  .saw.  the  stock 
is  derived  chietly  from  the  domesticated  variety,  which  is  hertled  in  ^rcat  numherson  the  Asiatic 
side  of  Bering  Straits,  and  i>htaine<i  by  means  of  exchanges  carricfl  on  in  summer.  The  wild 
Alaskan  variety  of  a  reindeer  is  pi'obahly  not  very  numerous  in  the  Kowak  rej^ion,  aJtlmuKh 
Ml',  (.'aniwell  saw  a  few  small  henls  aninux  the  hills  at  the  headwaters  of  the  river,  to  which 
they  uiiKi'ate  in  summer.  It  iu  not  impro))a)>le  that  they  .seek  the  luKher  lands  to  esca]>e  the 
m(is(iuito  plujiiu'  that  nuikes  life  misitrable  for  lieast  as  well  as  man  in  the  tumlra  sections. 
W((  saw  u  fi'W  fresh  (racks  in  the  sand  of  the  lower  river  in  .July.  On  August  I,  I  saw  a  rein- 
deer with  liorrs  still  in  the  velvet.  I  was  hunting  with  a  li^li^  shot->(vin  anions  some  hills 
several  miles  from  the  river  anri  pau.sed  for  a  rest,  when  a  reiud<'er  apjiroached  through  tlu) 
den.se  mist  and  ins[)ecttMl  meat  a  distance  of  less  than  forty  yards.  I  renuiitu>(l  perfectly  (juiet, 
sittin^^amon^the  low  bushes,  while  the  excited  animal  played  all  around  me.  He  would  become 
frif;htemMl  at  times  and  dash  away  to  a  sli>i;ht  eminence  near  by.  from  which  he  snorted  at  me 
in  great  alarm;  but  overcome  by  curiosity,  \w  approached  repeate<||y  for  a  nearer  viev. 

At  the  end  of  half  an  hour,  when  tlu'  mist  lia<l  turned  to  rain,  1  left  him, still  watching'  me 
frtini  u  .safe  distance,  and  went  away  ami  meditating  oji  the  perversity  with  which  game 
appears  when  one  has  tlie  wrong  kind  of  ai'ins  or  none  at  all. 

This  deer  was  not  lai-ge.  in  fact  not  nearly  as  large  as  I  expected  to  find  an  adult  reindeer 
with  fully  developed  antlers.  The  hides  which  we  saw  in  possession  of  the  people  did  not 
apparently  indicat(>  as  large  an  animal  iw  the  Culifornian  ('<tn'<icHs  coluiiihidiiiifi,  so  tliat  it  is 
probable  that  the  small  burrou-grouud  reiatleor,  or  caribou,  is  the  only  variety  found  in  North 


88  CRUISE  OF  THE  STEAMER  CORWIN. 

Alaska.  Tlio  larpor  woodland  carilxni  is  donhtless  thn  prevailing  variety  to  tli<»  southward. 
Reindeer  are  found  more  or  less  regularly  throuj^iiout  Alasiva.  Tliey  were  found  ))y  Mr. 
MfLenefj;an  on  the  Noiltak,  as  well  as  by  our  party  on  the  Kowak.  Traders  in  the  service  of 
the  Alaska  Conunereial  Company  toM  me  of  their  common  distrrbutioTi  over  tlui  Yukon.  Kus- 
kokvim,  and  Aleutian  divisions  of  the  country.  They  have  even  been  shot  on  ( )unimak  Island, 
at  the  end  of  the  peninsula.  But  reindeer  are  restless  animals,  irrej^ular  in  their  migrations 
and  habits.  Sometimes  they  (h'sert  wiiohi  .sectiims  of  country  for  montlis  together,  ami  tliey 
appear  to  have  withdrawn  from  many  regions  where  firo-arms  have  been  introduced. 

Notwitlistunding  th(»  fact  that  lai'ge  herds  of  reindeer  are  kept  in  a  state  of  tiomestication 
by  the  Cliukchees.  at  East  Cape,  and  other  well-known  jjlaces  on  the  Asiatic  side  of  Bering 
Straits,  with  whom  the  natives  of  the  Alaskan  side  comnuinicate  regularly,  there  ajjpej'rs  to 
be  no  domestication  of  the  species  whu'.ever  in  Alaska,  nor.  indeed,  in  any  part  of  J^orth 
America. 

In  time,  when  the  general  use  of  fire-arms  by  the  natives  of  Upper  Alaska  shall  have  reduced 
the  numbers  of  this  wary  animal,  the  introduction  of  th(»  tame  variety,  which  is  a  substantial 
sujiport  to  the  people  just  across  the  Straits,  among  oui'  own  thriftless,  ah'ohol-bewitched 
Eskimos,  would  bo  a  philanthropic  movement,  contributing  more  towai'd  tlieii'  anudioration 
than  any  system  of  schools  or  kindred  charities.  The  native  boats  coidd  never  accom])lish  the 
importation,  which  would,  however,  present  no  difiiculty  to  oi'diuai'y  .sea-going  ves,sels.  The 
taming  of  the  American  reindeer  is  imi>racticable.  for  domestication,  vith  this  animal  at  lea.st. 
is  the  result  of  subjection  thi'ough  many  generations.  Something  tending  to  render  a  wild  j)eo- 
ple  pastoral  or  agricultural  ought  to  be  the  tirst  ste])  toward  tlieir  advancement.  In  our  man- 
agement of  these  j)eoi>le.  piirclid.si'd  from  the  RuNsians.  we  have  an  opportunity  to  atone,  in  a 
measure,  for  a  century  of  dishonorable  treatment  of  the  Indian. 

Ovis  oanadenais  (Shaw).     ISidiioitN. 

I  saw  a  skin  of  the  mountain  .sheep  in  the  possession  of  a  native  on  the  lowei'  river,  ami  saw 
several  spoons  made  from  its  horns.     The  natives  told  us  of  its  existence  in  ,he  high  hills  inland. 

SciuruB  hudaoaius  {Pallnn).     Rkd  S((ciiti{Ri.  (Cii-ka-ld-tai-dk) 

We  found  iv<l  s(iuirrels  not  uncommon  in  the  sitruce  forests  of  the  Ui)i)er  Kowak.  They 
were  comparatively  familiar,  and  sometimes  chatted  noisily  in  the  trees  abcjut  our  camps. 

Five  specimens;  Upper  Kowak,  July  -iti-'M). 

Caator  fiber  Limie.     Bkavkk. 

Beaver  skins  were  not  plentifid  among  the  natives,  but  we  saw  ])elts  occasi(jnally  that  had 
doubtless  been  taken  in  that  region,  as  many  of  them  were  from  young  animals. 

Fiber  zibethicua  {FAniK^).     Mcskhats. 

I  saw  two  live  muskrats  swimming  in  the  river,  just  about  the  didta.  on  August  v'".'.  and  fired 
at  them,  but  without  effect.  I  was  impressed  with  the  fa<'t  of  their  small  size,  although  they 
appeared  to  be  adults.  The  same  is  true  of  the  pelts  we  saw  in  the  possession  of  the  natives. 
and  of  which  they  make  garments  and  blankets. 

Myodesobenaia  Brants.     Lemmino. 

A  single  specimen  of  the  common  lemming  was  obtained  on  the  river. 

Arvioola  rlpariua  (Ot'ff.). 

We  obtained  specimens  of  this  mouse  in  certain  deserted  winter  house.s  of  the  natives 
along  the  lower  river,  and  in  a  mossy  bank  near  our  camp  at  Kotzebue  Sound. 

Erethizon  doraatua  epixanthua  (Brandt).     Wk.stbks  I'oitcuriNK. 

Mr.  Cantwell  obtained  three  or  four  young  j)orcupines  near  the  source  of  the  river  in  July, 
which  were  roasted  and  eaten  by  the  natives  accompanying  him.  The  species  was  not  met 
with  elsewhere. 

Que  specimen  (young);  headwaters  of  Kowak.  July. 


CRUISE  OF  THE  STEAMER  CORWIN.  89 

Lepus  timidus  Liiini'.    Polar  IIaiei:. 

( )u  July  4  I  saw  a  solitary  liarc  in  tlu-  Kowak  delta,  tlic  only  ono  soon  during  our  oxplora- 
tioiis.  I  do  not  ronioniljor  luivin;j;  soon  any  skins  in  tlio  villagos  along  the  river,  ulthougli  thoy 
wore  soniftiinos  soon  in  tho  possession  of  the  coast  people. 

Sorex  N|i. 

I  saw  a  diininutivo  slirow  on  August  -i'i,  not  far  above  tlio  delta  of  tho  river.  It  was  tlie 
only  ono  observed  in  tlie  country. 

Phooa  vituliua  f.iiiin'.     IIaimiok  Skai.. 

Tlio  liiirbor  seal,  which  is  abundant  all  along  tho  novthoru  coasts,  and  wlii(di  is  constantly 
huntod  l)y  llio  ])eoi>l(>  t'or  food  and  clothing,  often  wanders  far  up  tho  Kowak  River. 

ITraus  ricbardsoni  ./icf.  and  liae'i.     UAHui;s-iiui>iNi>  Hi'.ar. 

Thi"  brown  and  yellowish  boai' skins  in  tlio  possession  of  the  natives  slionhl  pi'obably  all 
be  roforrod  to  this  variety.  M'ar  traeks  were  often  found  in  the  sand-bar.s  along  the  river; 
none  of  them  appeared  to  indicate  animals  of  very  groat  size. 

Oulo  luscus  {t.inni').     Woi.vkkink. 

I  only  saw  two  or  thi'oo  skins  of  this  animal.  Thoy  ai'o  frociuontly  worn  by  tho  natives, 
l)iit  (lie  luajoi'ity  of  them  are  olttainod.  I  tliink,  foi-  other  localities. 

Putorlus  vison  (.Sf/ircfcc)).     Mink. 

saw  a  mink  on  the  upper  river  August  l.     Pelts  were  to  be  found  in  all  tho  villages. 

PutoriuB  erminea  {LiniU').    Ekmink. 

Skins  of  this  animal  were  very  conimon  among  the  natives,  and  the  iul'ereuce  is  that  they 
were  taken  on  tho.  river,  as  tho  species  is  abundant  in  Northern  Alaska. 

Vulpes  fulvus  (ZJi.fHi.).     Kki)  Kdx. 

Skins  of  this  and  tho  next  species  were  often  seen. 

Vulpea  lagopus  (tiHH(').    AitcTic  Fox. 

Elephas. 

Tusks,  tooth,  and  bones  of  tho  mammoth  were  soon  in  many  of  tho  villages  on  the  Kowak 
River,  'fho  natives  frociuoutly  carve  ornanu'uts  and  u.seful  ai'ticlos  out  of  mammoth  tusks,  and 
1  saw  .some  very  large  soup-hidles  made  out  of  this  fossil  ivory.  At  Capo  Prince  of  Wales. 
wJiere  the  ('orivin  anclujrod  for  a  .short  time  on  her  way  north,  sevi-ral  tusks  and  large  bones  of 
tho  mammoth  woi'o  brought  aboard  for  barter.  When  (pu'stionod  as  to  their  ideas  respecting 
this  groat  extinct  elephant,  the  natives  told  us  that  it  was  a  very  large  roindoor.  anil  poiuti'd 
out  to  ns.  from  the  size  of  the  bones  lying  on  the  deck,  how  lai'ge  it  must  have  I)eon,  I  brought 
out  a  copy  of  Le  Conto's  (loology,  whiidi  wo  had  on  board,  and  showed  tliom  a  ])icture  of  tho 
skeleton  of  a  mammoth,  wlucli  thoy  recognized  at  once,  and  delightedly  pointed  out  tho  bones 
I'osemMing  those  lying  vipon  tho  dock.  When  I  produced  a  picturi'  of  the  same  animal  restored, 
in  which  it  greatly  I'osemblos  tho  elephant,  their  enthusiasm  reached  a  high  |)itch. 

'I'lie  matter  was  a])i)arontly  perfectly  clear  to  their  minds,  and  thoy  listened  with  attention 
while  the  surgeon  and  I  explaineil,  through  tho  interpreter,  what  we  knew  abimt  the  mammoth. 
Bt>foro  tho  book  was  ])ut  away  one  of  them  borrowed  a  pencil  and  jiioco  of  paper  to  coj)y  the 
outlines  of  the  pictui'o.  and  I  am  I)ound  to  say  that  his  skofcli  was  very  creditable,  considering 
tho  ci'ude  ideas  of  art  ai  long  such  i)eo])le. 

On  August  2S,  at  Schismaroff  Inlet.  I  found  tho  front  half  of  the  skull  of  a  mammoth 
lying  on  the  oi)en  tundra,  which  was  not  fossilized  in  the  least,  being  simply  <'i  mos  of  dry 
bono,  firm  and  light.  This  is  rather  roinai'kabl(>,  considering  tho  long  extinction  of  the  mam- 
moth and  the  geological  and  climatic  change;,  which  have  since  taken  place  in  North  America. 
H.  Ex.  153 la 


90  CRUISE  OF  THE  STEAMER  COR  WIN. 

BIRDS.* 

1.  Urinator  imber  ( Oitun. ).     Loon  ( Kh<i-(i-<lnik). 

Ijiiuiis  wiTc  srcn  aliiiiist  daily  liy  oiii'  party  wliilc  on  the  Kowak  River.  As  no  spi'ciincn.s 
of  tlic  (lark-iiccki'd  kinds  wcv  olitaiiicd,  I  am  nol  certain  that  I',  urrlicii.s  tinil  /xiciliciis  wviv 
not  n'|>f('S(  'ili'il  tlit'i'c  as  wi'll  as  Inilicr. 

2.  Urinator  adamsii  ('''nil/).     Vk.i.i.ow  nil  i.kh  I.ikin, 

Ainoiio-  111,.  I,,,, IIS  wliicli  llrw  noisily  over  oiir  hoals  from  tiiin'  ti;  lime  1  occasionally  I'ccog- 
ni/.cd  t  his  spt'cics. 

3.  Urinator  luniine  ( (.HHW.)      K'KD-riiiioATKn  \AMf\  {Kali  ll-ih■llk^. 

1  oiitaiiicd  a  spcci n   of   this  liird  on   the   ii|i|mt   livcr  on  Aiin-iist    1(1.      AltlioiiKli    1  saw 

neither  nests  n,ir  yoiip.,-  l.irds.  tl .instant  presenc i  the  river  of  t  his  aad  the  two  preceding 

species  Would  seem  to  indicate  tlleil'  hreedillt;-  there. 

4.  Larusglancns  Hri'iiiii.     (ii,.\rer-    (iii.r.. 

(Jl.incns  Kiills  were  rreipeiitly  seen  during  oiir  voya.<i:e.  especially  ahmi;'  the  lower  river, 
where  we  oliserved  tlieni  .sonielinies  rest  inn-  n|ion  the  swayini--  tops  of  the  s|iruee  tree.s.  a  very 
unusual  thiiiic  for  tjnlis  to  do. 

'I'wo  specimens  (skeletons):    Lower  Kowak.  .\ui;-ust  ^'5. 

5.  Larus  glancescens   Xninii.     (ii.Ai  irs-wiN(a:i)  ( iii.i,. 

'I'he  presence  of  this  species  was  noted  almost  daily  until  we  readied  a  distance  of  about 
three  hiinilred  mill's  from  the  sea.  wlu'ii  it  liecame  rather  scarce. 

6.  Larns  Philadelphia  {(lr<h.     Honai'aktk's  ( iil.l.  iA-kliiii-di-iiiuj-iiCik). 

I   ol.tained   siiecimeiis  of  this  liird  on   (he   middle  and   lower  river  in  July.     It  was  nut 

often  seen. 

Two  specimens:  Lower  and  Middle  Kowak.  .Inly  l-lo. 

7.  Sterna  pa  radisaea  llriiini.     \luTU-  Tf.hs  {M'l-hi-ldi-h'ik). 

Tiie  Arc(ic  tern  is  a  common  liird  ;ill  alon.n'  the  river. 
Two  specimens;   l.owei'  Kowak.  ,J uly  4  .Vu^usf   is. 

8.  Merganser  serrator  il.iiiii.).     Kkd-hukastkh  .Mkhuavsku  {fiii-rn-iiH-riik). 

A  moderately  comnion  summer  resident.     Younj--  liirds  in  the  ilown  were  shot  August  10. 
Three  specimens;   Ijower  Kowak.  August  Is. 

9.  Anas  amerioana  amcl     HAl.n-PATK  {V-(jivv-hfink). 

Common  in  the  lagoons  along  tleniiddle  and  lower  river.  We  .shot  many  full-grown 
young  liirds  late  in  August. 

10.  Anas  caroliuensis  diiirliii.     (iui.KN-WTN(iK.i)  Thai,. 

The  green-winged  teal  was  freipieutly  mi't  with  during  oui'  voyage.  The  young  are  well 
gi'own  by  the  middle  of  August. 

One  siiecimen;  Lower  Kowak.  .August. 

11.  Dafila  acuta  (/.//( 11. ).     I'intau.. 

More  abundant  than  either  of  the  two  preceding  sjiecies.  esiiccially  at  the  delta  of  the 
rivei'  and  ;ibout  Hot  ham  Inlet,  where  we  shot  numbers  of  them  late  in  the  .season. 

12.  Oidemia  amerioana  Sir.  <l'-  Rirh.     .Vmkimian  Scotku  (Mi-fi-<iii-i'ii'-riik). 

'I'his  species  was  not  uncommon  along  the  lower  river. 


* Nomtuuluturi;  of  the  Ami'ricun  Oiiiitlinlogisl.s'  Union. 


CKIISK  (»K  THK  STKaMKIM'oRWIN.  9I 

13.  Anser  alblfrons  gambelM "'"'"•■     Amkhii  an  WhitivI'kiinthii  (iciosK  i^Ti-ij'i-iik). 

This  ^DDsc  is  a  smuiiU'V  n'siilfiil  of  I  lie  rnliic  Kownk  liivcr  retail  ni,  mid  pvobalily  i\w  must 
iilnuiilaiil  of  111  1  the  AiiKi'riiKV  ln'i-cdint,'  tliciT.  W'c  rniniil  il  i'\crv\vliri'c  oNcr  tlui  tiiiitlrii  liuids, 
I'c'diiiy;  nil  till'  l)lui'l)('rri('s.  Mr.  ( 'iiiitwcll  l)niiii;lil  iiii'  a  s|icciiii('ii  I'lnin  llic  lakr  at  tlic  soiirci' 
III'  tlif  river,  wlici'i'  it  was  very  ahiiiidaiil. 

14.  Brauta  canadensis  hutchinsii  i.s'/c.  ((•  Itifli.).     Hi  n  hiss's  (Jdosi:. 

Tliis  and  till'  I'ollowiiii;- species  Were  CDiistaiitly  [ireseiit  upon  the  rJNcr.  and  we  IVeiiiieiitly 
sliot  tliom  from  tiie  laiincii  ;is  we  steamed  aloiiy;.  The  lai'K''  lh'dij;liii.!.;s.  when  stulVi'd  with 
potato  and  hits  of  wild  onion,  which  we  ir,-ii  lieceil  aloiij;;  shore,  fiiniished  lis  many  a  .sax'ory  roast. 

15.  Branta  canadensin  mtiiima  /iir/i/tr.     ('AeKl.lNii  (iunsK. 

16.  Olor  columbiaiius  \()r<l).     Wiiisii.iNU  Sw.vn. 

Swans  were  scarce  in  tlie  region  Ihiuii^-h  whicii  we  traveled.  Stra^^ling  individuals  were 
sometimes  seen  on  the  shallow  lakes  scattered  (iver  the  tundra  lands. 

17.  Grua  canadensis  (/.iioi.i.     I.ith.k  I'iciwn  Cuani;. 

This  small  crane,  which  is  disjiersed  in  moderate  niinihers  tlir<iiiehoiit  the  country,  is  such 
a  dimiiiiitivi' liiril  that  I  hardly  ri'i'oiini/.ed  il  as  an  Aiiii'rican  species.  It  seemed  iiolniore 
than  one-third  tlicsi/,e  of  tlie  (,'riis  I  had  liecome  familiar  with  in  the  Western  States.  Now 
known  to  lie  a  distinct  species,  it  is  straiin'e  that  it  should  have  lieeii  so  lon>;' confused  with 
larjj;er  hirds.  There  is  prohahly  room  for  doiiht  as  to  its  wintering;  place  lieiiij.;  tlie  hordei's  of 
Mexico. 

18.  Tringa  minutilla  (1 7((7/. )     I.kast  SAxniMi'iat  (''"    vi/,). 

I  procured  fi\'e  specimens  of  the  least  sandpiper  on  the  upper  course  of  the  riverJiily 
•.'( I--.'.").     It  was  not  uncommoii  later  in  (he  season. 

19.  Ereunetes  pusillus  (I, I  mi.).     Sk.mii'ai.mati'.h  Swnni'i'.ii  i  l-l'iii-kul). 

A  siiinle  specimen  was  si  ml  on  .1  iil>'  ".'i*.  from  a  thick  of  I  he  preceding;  sp  'cies. 

20.  Totanus  flavipes  Ki'iinl.),     Nki.i.ow-i.kos  i  I'li-lii-iil.-hik). 

The  yellowde!;-s  hreeds  s|iariiinly  ill    marshy  lliickets  horderini;'  the  rive)-.     It  is  vei'v  noisy 
wlieit  its  retreats  are  invaded.  Ilyiiii;-  e\cile(lly  uver  the  low  spruces  or  restiny  u[>on  their  tops. 
One  specimen;  Lower  Knwak,  .lidy  I. 

2'x.  Bartramia longicauda  illrrhxl.).     Hahtiiamian  SANiii'irrii  {l''-li-niii). 
Only  seen  on  two  or  three  occasions. 
One  specimen;  L'liper  Kow.ik.  ,)iily  I.'). 

22.  Actitia  macularia  U.iiui.).    .simttki)  .'Sanpi'ipku  ( l-f(i-hiK--ci'i ri-i-dii-rok  or  A-imi-tlli-yuk). 

Kaic.     ( )iii' specimen;  I'pper  Kowak.  July  'M. 

23.  Numeniua  tahitiensls  ((i'iik/.).     l?uisTl.i'.-Tm<iUi'.ii  I'lui.r.w  (Y')(-r(;-/i(-i(i/,). 

I  shot  a  s|iecimeii  of  A',  lull  it  ii'iisl.s  ;tl  l\ot/,el)iie  Sound.  Auj^ust  'v'Ci.  ISS."),  havinsif  fluslipd 
it  from  anioiit,'  the  hliieherry  hushes  where  il  was  feediiii,'.  The  occurrence  of  this  inhahitant 
of  the  South  Pacilic  Islands  is  thus  recordeil  for  the  third  time  iiiXorthAinerica.it  having 
heeii  taken  at  Fort  Kenai.  Alaska.  l>y  Mr.  HischolV.  May  It;,  ISH'.t,  mid  at  St.  Michacrs.  Alaska, 
hy  i[r.  Nelson.  May  -.'1.  issn.  From  the  fact  of  this  heiiitj;  a  youiii;'  bird  taken  in  tlie  antiimn. 
it  is  prohahle  that  the  species  sometimes  hreeds  in  Alaska.  It  is  not  recorded  as  occurring  on 
the  Asiatic  side. 

24.  .SJgialitis  semipalmata  /?o»/..    Skmip.m.matkd  V\.i>\-v.\\{)<ii-riik-H-rHk). 

Not  unconiiiioii  iiliout  the  saml-hai's  of  the  river. 
Two  specimens;  Uppor  Kowak.  July  S--.>i. 


92  CRUISE  OF  THE  STEAMER  CURWIN. 

25.  Areiiaria  melanooephala  ( l'i(/.).     Black  '''urnstone  (Tn-niiit-ti-liih). 

Si'cii  (iiriisioimlly  about  the  inontli  of  the  river  and  Hotham  Inlet. 

( ►lie  specimen;  Kowak  delta,  July  4. 
25.  Dendragapus  canadensis  (/-/»)/.).     Canad.v  Okoi'sf,  U^'ii-fd-ti-nn'i-i-iif). 

A  .siMi^le  siK'cinirn  of  Ihi.s  .■^lu'cies,  a  female  accom|ianie(i  hy  Hed^lings,  was  obtained  in  the 
spruce  Woodson  tlie  middle  Kowak  July  11.     No  others  were  seen. 

27.  Lagopiis  lagopuB  (/,//(«.).     Wll.l.ow  Ptakmkian  {A-kii-di-tii-iriU). 

We  found  a  f>'W  flocks  of  this  bird  alon^  the  lower  river  and  ai)ont  Kotzebue  Hound  in 
Aujuiist.  only  one  individual  having  been  seen  higher  up.  They  were  always  met  with  on  the 
"]ien  tundra,  feeding  on  the  omnipresent  blueberries. 

Two  sjM'cimens;  U|)])er  Kowak  July  14,  ajul  Kotzebue  Simnd  August  •■>>>. 

28.  Circus  luidsonius  (f.i/(».).     M\R>iii  Hawk  (I'u-jnk-tuk). 

The  marsh  hawk  is  a  common  species  throughout  the  Kowak  River  region,  whore  its 
l)r('i'diug  is  indicated  by  the  young  birils  collected. 

Three  s|(eciim.ns;  Upper  Kowak.  .Vugust  10,  and  Kotzebue  Sound.  August  -.'(i. 

29.  Archibuteo  ferruglueus  (/,/<•///.).     Fekruoinoiis  Rouoh-i.ko  (Khai-lii-nik). 

Large  hawks,  chiefly,  I  think,  of  this  species,  were  often  seen  along  the  I'iver. 
One  specimen;   I^ower  Kowak.  Augn.st  '..'t?. 

30.  Falco  columbatius  (  /,/////.).     I'lUKc )N-IIa WK  ( K'i-ili-(iii-in'-lciik). 

Rather  comimm  everywhere  during  our  stay  in  the  region.     Breeds  in  the  wooded  districts. 
Thri'e  specimens;  Upper  Kowak,  July  |-.'.  Angu  i  lo-is. 

31.  Pandion  haliaetus  carolinensls  iOiiirl.).     Amekican  Ospkk.v  (Kn-liik-d-ru-rfik). 

A  common  species,  especially  along  the  lower  river,  where  many  lu'.sts  were  seen  upon  the 
tops  of  the  spruces.  I  took  a  full-grown  ycmng  bird  from  one  of  these  nests,  which  traveled 
with  us  during  the  remainder  of  the  seas<m.  perched  ui>ou  the  bow  of  the  steam-launeh.  The 
ai)i)etite  of  this  bird  was  always  good,  which  could  not  be  sai.l  of  its  temper',  its  piscivo?-ous  jiro- 
pensities  fully  justifying  its  native  name  of  Ka-luk-a-eu-rfik,  which  Myninck  exi-hiim  1  niciint 
••  eat  um  i.lenty  feesh."  Fortunately,  we  always  had  plenty  of  •'  feesh  ""'  for  both  the  os|irey  and 
Myninck  to  eat.  the  latter  being  .piite  as  deserving  of  some  such  hdithyophagons  distinction. 
23'  Asio  accipitrinus  (/'((/^).     .Short-eaked  Owl  (Si-pul-jiuk-tok). 

Onespecimen;  Kotzebue  Sound.  August  tiC.  This  was  the  only  individual  owl  of  any  kind 
that  1  saw  in  the  region. 

33.  Ceryle  alcyon  (Linn.).     Belted  KiNOFisnER  (Xii-k-i-tcuk-iik-  or  Tn-i/i'i-nii-uii-lnk). 

The  kingfisher  was  present  upon  the  river  during  the  entire  season:  in  fact,  it  was  as  com- 
mon as  one  would  exj)ect  to  find  it  on  a  river  in  th ^  United  States  I  found  a  nest  on  July  t>4, 
in  the  usual  situation— in  a  hole  tniuieled  in  a  soft  hank. 

Four  specimens;  Upper  and  Middle  Kowak,  July  -.'.'j-August  IS. 

34.  Perisoreus  canadensis  fumifrons  liiiUjit:     Alaska  Jay  {Ki-ritk  or  AMlde-di-i/ok). 

A  c.mnnon  s])ecies  in  the  spruce  woods  of  the  region.  I  shot  nnuiy  of  them  about  the  vil- 
lages of  the  natives,  where  tliey  gathered  to  feed  on  the  dried  fish  that  the  jteople  were  curing 
on  racks  in  the  open  air  for  winter  stores.  Salmon  eggs,  often  dried  with  the  fish,  were  their 
delight.  They  canu"  noiselessly,  like  the  thieves  they  were,  from  apparently  nowheiv,  and 
<lropi)ed  singly  and  by  turn  ii\um  the  racks,  with  a  niisehievcms  flirt  of  the  tail,  to  suutch  the 
nn)uthful  of  roe  they  made  off  with. 

Twelve  specinu'iis;  Upper  and  Middle  Kowak,  July  ll-August  18. 

35.  Corvus  corax  sinuatus  ( iVoyl.).    A.meuican  Raven. 

Rather  common  along  the  river.     Seen  also  at  Kotzebue  Sound, 
Two  specimens  (skeletons);  Lower  Kowak,  August  v'5. 


CRUISE  OF  THE  STEAMER  C'ORVVIN.  98 

36.  Soolecophaguscarollnu8(.V«//.).    Rt'STV  BhWKttmu  {Tti-li(-tifi-riik). 

I  siiw  ii(>tliin.i(  of  this  liii'd  until  liitu  in  tliu  season,  when  ii  few  niiy;riints,  from  tli«^  norili 
presumably,  W(<ro  noticed  about  tiic  1)aul\s  of  tlus  lower  river  and  at  Kotzeitue  Sound. 
Two  spocimons;  Lower  Kowak,  August  •^•^-^5. 

37.  Acanthis  linaria  holbcellii  {Ilnhm)      IIomkki.i.'h  Kkdi'OI.i,  (ICa  hriH-hra  iiiik). 

The  I'edpolls  ])rol)ably  breed  near  the  coast  in  Northern  Alaska,  for  during  a  two-niontlis" 
journey  of  several  hundi'ed  miles  through  a  well-diversitieil  country  I  saw  less  than  half  a 
dozen  individuals,  and  thei't*  were  no  evidences  that  the.se  were  bi'oeding. 

Two  spocinuMis;  Upper  Kowak.  July  I. 't. 

38.  Calcarius  lapponicuB  (/.jHH.).     Laim.an'd  Iainiisimii  {ho-jml-nuk). 

I  found  this  species  comi)aratively  abundant  about  Kotzubue  Souml  late  in  August,  but 
saw  nothing  of  it  up  the  I'iver. 

One  specimen;  Kotzebue  Sounil,  August  '^(!. 

39.  AmmodramiiB  sandwichensis  alaudinus  (/>'»Hn/).).  sWkstkhn  Havanna  Spaiiiiow  (<>finl->i\ik.) 

The  savanna  sparrow  is  a  very  abundant  bird  along  the  i'iver.     1  did  not  liud  nests,  but  the 
number  of  young  birds  shot  indicate  that  the  species  breeds  plentifully  there. 
Si.v  si)eci!nens;  Upper  Kowak,  July  '.iO-Augu.sf  lo. 

40.  Zonotrichia  intermedia  Hiilgii:     Intku.mkdiatk  .Si-akkow  {yiiri-wuk  hhiriik). 

This  is  [ii'obably  thi'  most  abundant  spari'ow  in  the  Kowak  regions.  1  found  many  young 
bii'ds. 

Thirtooii  specimens;  Upjjcr  and  Midille  Kowak.  July  7-August  is. 

41.  Spizella  mouticola  ocliracea  IIiiwhI.    Western  Tuek  SrARiuiw  ( Ctik  iiin-ruk  or  rk-i>ik-Kli<ii-iik  or  Mic-ukliii-iink.  j 

Constantly  associated  with  the  two  preceding  species,  it  was  almost  as  common  both  iji  the 
number  of  adults  and  young. 

Thirteen  specimens;  U])per  and  Middle  Kowak.  July  15-August  IS. 

42.  Junco  hyemalis  (AiiiH.).    Si,a'1e-c()I,ohei>  ^•PAHU()W  {Kuiii  nn-luk). 

Moderately  common  in  the  di'ier  sjii-uce  forests. 
Thi'ee  specimens;   Upper  Kowak.  July  :.'()--^4. 

43.  Melospiza  linooliii  (.-/«(/. ).     IjImoi.n's  Spauhow  (Sitwiiimikri'ik). 

A  solitary  siH'cimen  of  Lincoln's  sparrow  was  shot  on  the  Upper  Kowak.  July  ;.'(). 

44.  Passerella  iliaca  (J/«)'i-.).     I'o.v  SPAiiiiow. 

Like  tlie  ])receding.  this  species  is  represented  in  my  collection  by  a  single  sjjecii.N'n,  tluf 
only  one  seen.     It  was  taken  on  the  upper  river  on  July  1.5. 

45.  Chelidon  erythrogaster  (A'orfrf.).     Ha  a  n  Swallow. 

I  recognized  the  barn  swallow  on  .several  occasions  as  it  Hew  with  other  swallows  over  the 
river. 

46.  Clivicola  riparia  tZ,tiiii.).     Bank  Swallow. 

Bank  swidlows  were  frp(|uently  seen  oii  the  upper  river  when  we  first  ari'ived  there,  but 
later  the  continued  heavy  rains  I'aised  the  river  to  such  a  height  (nearly  ten  feet)  that  tiieir 
tunnels  were  inundated  and  the  young  birds  destroyed.  For  a  week  or  more  after  this,  or  dur- 
ing the  tii'.st  w(M'k  f)f  August,  largo  flocks  of  swallows  went  Hying  everywhere  about  the  coun- 
try and  then  disapi)eared  and  were  seen  no  nu)re  during  our  stay  on  the  river. 

47.  Lanins  borealis  Vii-ill.    Northkrn  Shrike. 

The  only  shrike  seen  was  a  young  bird  I  shot  at  Kotzebue  Sound  August  2'!. 


i)4  CUnsK  OK  TMK  STKAMKU  COIIWIN. 

48.  Dendioica  Eeativa  (ri'iiif/.).     Vki.i.hw  Wauiii.kh. 

Appiiri'iitly  not  (■dimiinii  .'iiiywlwrr  in  tin'  t't'y:ii)ii.  A  few  yoiiiit;  liinls  wen-  seen  iilmut  tlin 
iM'Kiiiii'i'K  '•'  Au^Misl. 

Olio  spcciiucn;  MiiMlc  Kuwak,  Au>,nist   Id. 

49.  Deiidroioa  ooronata  (/,/»».).     MvitTi.K  \V.miiii.i;u  {Tui-lriri-i-riih). 

My  siH'ciiiM'iis  of  tliis  sprcics,  wliicli  \v;is  Idiiinl  in  iiumIitmIi'  immlnTs  iiloiij^  llic  river,  uro 
liotli  yiiimj;  liii'ds. 

'I"\vu  spfciiiiciis:   rppiT  ,iim1  .Mi'lilli'  Knuak,  ,1  iily   .'."i   Aiii;iisl   I."). 

50.  Deiidrolca  striata  (/W/.v/.i      Hi.m  k  rui.i.  W Mtm.l.u. 

Like  llic  pf('cc(lin;f,  only  niiMlrralcly  iiniiniini.     V(tiin;;  Mn!.^  cullcclcil. 
Kdiir  spi'cinii'Ms;  rppir!in<l  .Miilillc  Kciwnk.  July  •.'•.'  Aiinii.-^t  l."(. 

51.  Seiiuus  noveboracensis  {dmrl.).     W  \iKlt  'I'liui  sii  (/'A■.^•/i/l-^(/■l//.  i. 

Sci'ii  (III  scMial  ocrasiiiii.s  in  damp  (iiii'kcts  aionn'  liir  I'ivrr.  Tliifc  spcciint'iis;  U|)pt'r 
Kiiwak.  July  IV   .Xii.-iisl  S. 

52.  Sylvaiiia  pusilla  i  U  ih.).     Wilson's  \V.\niil.Klt  (\inl-iriih--tii-i-iil,). 

I'liilialily  (•iiiiiinoncr  llian  any  otiirf  warlilcr  in  Hie  n'i;i(in.  Six  spcciincns;  rpprraiid 
Middle  Knwak.  July  S-Auj;ust  l."i. 

53.  Anthua  penailvaiiicus  (/,<(///.).     ,\>u:uii\s  I'li'ir  (/-.li/.-cii/,). 

Small  bands  nf  this  spreirs  ennstiinl ly  t're(|uentcd  llic  liinliiT  ami  drier  liilltup.s.  They 
never  ileseeiided  Ik  I  III' danii)  luiidi'a  liordcrim;'  llir  riser.  'I'lirer  speeimeiis:  Midille  Knwak, 
Au.uiist  I -IS. 

34.  ParuB  hndsoiiicuB  /''cn-.s/.     ill  hsiinian  i  iik  k  mh'.k. 

I  met  with  the  cliirkadee  mi  niir  oerasinn  diily.ji  single  individual   lia\iiii;'  I n  shut  oi- 

the  iijiper  rixcr  J  iily  •.'!. 

55.  Phyllopaeiistea  bcroalia  {llliis.).     Ki'.NNicorT's  Wn.l.nw   W.Mtm.i-.i!. 

I  priicurrd  a  spi'i-iini'ii  nf  the  rare  Keiinicott's  warliler  uii  .\ui;'iist  I.  Il  was  diseciveri'd 
in  il  t  liicket  I'ai'  up  <in  mie  of  t  he  highest  hills  nf  I  lir  middli'  ri  vrr.  and  was  sinn'ini,'  swrct  ly. 

On  Auijust  .'!()  1  nlitained  another  specimen  at  I'ort  Chu'ence  und"r  similar  <'ircunislances, 
whieh  was  unl'ort unately  lost.  It  is  a-  Siherian  bird,  known  in  Alaska  by  less  than  Jiiilf  a 
do/.eli  speeimeiis. 

56.  Turdus  aliciae  llninl.     ( !ifAV-(Hi:K.Ki:i>  Tinasii  [Siii-iil-lii-hih  oi  il.x-lih-tdi-i'il:.) 

("omnioii  amoiii;- tlir  t  hiekfis  of  the  lower- river.  It  will  he  notieed  lliat  the  native  who 
^•a\e  me  the  name  of  llcf<-l'ih-l:'n-'V:  for  tiiis  species  confounded  it  with  tli"  water  thrush 
{SeiiiriiK  iiiirchiirdi-rii.sis).  which  perhaps  resemhles  it  sulliciiMitly  to  make  his  mistake 
cxciisuhle. 

Ki\'e  specimens;   Lower  Kowak.  July  land  Aui;ust   |s. 

57.  Menila  migratoria  (/./mil.     Amiiucan  Koiiis  [  Kiui-ii-iiii-nil,:  n(\nU  :  i-iik-nti-lrd-iii-liik,  voiihk). 

A  eomnioii  summer  resident. 

Kive  s]ieciiiieiis;   I'ppi'r  Kowak.  Jul\  ■.M-".".i. 

58.  Hesperocichla  uEevia"('.'/yn7. ).     Vakikd  'riliusii  {T'lii-iiii-.iii-hih  i>v  ('i-o-t'ik-tii-dvuK-). 

A  species  whose  presence  was  noted  at  intervals  duriiii;'  the  entire  .season.      I  I'oiind  ii  nest 
(!ontfuninj^  three  lianl-sei  ej^ffs  on  .luly  I.  in  the  spruce  woods  of  the  lower  I'iver. 
Ei^dif  specimens:  July  4  ami  Aug.isl  is. 


o 
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CUUISK  OF  THK  HTKAMEU  CDUWIN.  05 

FISIIIOS. 

(;AT(»ST(»MII)yE. 
Catottomua  longlroatri*  !/•  fii'twr.    Nuiitiikun  Sickkii. 

On  ,|„|y  -.'I  I  nl,lui,M.,|  srvcrul  lisln's  of  this  sprcirs  l.y  .Irutf^inw a Mmall  sriiu-.  wit),  Mursl.'s 

ll"l|'.  llin.llKll  llll  nl.l  lilKli-wul.T  .•liuim.'l.   ill  Wllich  f|„.  (isllrs  ||,i,|   I „  ,.,||  utr  l.y  |||,.  r.,i|i„jr  ..f 

liio  nvrr     Tlu's,.  wriv  all  tin.,  hnw  lisli.'s.  ..f  ..N,...ll,.nt  l!uv..r.     .\ltli..i,-l.  ,,|,.|,|'iful  in  tl,is,,|.| 

•;  ''■^"'"•'-  "'••>• ;y..r..  s,.|,| s |s,.wli,.,v.     Til..  n.us„n  ..f  this  muv  liuv..  I „  tinil  Ih..  n„,|. 

IiImt  -H.ts  iis,.,|  l.y  t h..  nativ..s  in  .•ui..|ii„K  suliin.i.  wrn,  n.,t  w..|l  .Mhii-trd  lu  Ihi,  lai.lun. ..f  lM.tl..,ii 
tislii's,  such  iis  suckers. 

Two  s|H.cinii.|is;  i:|)|.(.r  K,.wuk.  July  -.'1. 

SAI.MONIIJ^E. 
Coregoiius  qiiadrllateralis  lUrlninhdii.     Win  ikfihh. 
Fft'(|ii('iitly  tiik..|i  ill  Ih..  saliimii  sciii..s. 
(>ii(.  s|ii.ciMi(n:  Miilillc  Ki.wak,  .\u,i,nist. 

Coregoiuis  keuiiicotti  Mihirr. 

^'"'  ^■'•'■y '•-•"" '.     '''''"^'■•^'•'■"\v<'n'nflar;,'csiz...  l„.ii,Ks,.iii,.|iin,.sasl..nnasa(lultsahn„n 

(»n..  s|.(.ciiiM.|i;  .Miililj..  Ki.uak.  AuHUst. 

Coregoiius  nelsonl  l!i<iii. 

<  >ii(.  s|...ciin..|i  :  Mill. III.  Kowak.  Alienist. 

CoreponiiB  iieerki,  \mi-.  Oiiiithei. 

(  tllc  specimen;    Miijille  KiiUak,  All^'llsl. 

ThymallUB  slgnlfer  HirlninlsKi,.     Amkiucan  (iiiA vi.inii. 

A  v..ry  ahmiihiiit  s,,..,.i..s  in  all  IV..sh  waters  .,f  the  vv^unu     ()lt,.n  .„.tl,.i|  in  h.rov  nmnhers 
:iy  tli(.  natives. 

One  s|)t.cinii.|i-   l'|.|...r  Knwak.  ,luly. 

Stenodua  mackeiiziei  liirlinrtlxiiii. 

Oii(.  siiecinieii;   .Miilille  Knwak.  .\u:;iist. 

OnoorhynchuB  gorbiischa  Wdlliiiniii.     Ill  mi'hai  k  Salmon. 

.    '''•'•''•■'';l.v  nnlnii.r..  than  hair  a. I,,.ei,iniliviilualsnr  this  s 'ies  uvr..  seen  ilurin,^  i,ui- vi.v 

iWn-  i.n  tin.  nvr.  alt  hi„mh   lai-..  nun,l„.rs  ..f  lish..s  w.ti.  exaniineil   at   everv  villa f  the 

lliltives.  •  ,-,        I    ii.i 

On..  s|i..ciinen;  MiiMI..  Ki.wak.  .August   I. 
Oiicorhynchus  keta  11  ■<(//.(,/■,;/.     limi  Salmon. 

Th..  pivvailin-. salmon  in  th,.  Knwak.     Civiit  nunil...rs  ilrie.l  hy  t  li..  |...o|,I,.. 
Salveliniia  iiamaycush  Wdlluitm.     (1iu;at  I,akh; 'I'hoi  t. 

Mr.  ('ai.tw..ll  l.n.u^ht  m.- a  lai-e  s,...cimi.n  ..f  this  ma,-iiili,-..nt  t. t  from  the  lak,.  in  which 

he  kowak  heails.  when.  h..  to„n,|  it  in  al.iin.lan.....     Th..  I.ik..  is  .•all,.,|  ( 'ar-l......-ah-loi,k-tali  l.v 

theiia  iv..,s    III  ivl..|vn..,.t..tl,..«T..at  si/..  ..f  th..trout  inhal.it  i,,:;'  it.     Tin.  .sp..ci,.s  was  m.f  m.^l 

wit  li  (.|s(>wli..r<.. 

Salvellnus  malma  W'ltlhiiiim.     |;i;i>-S|.ottki>  'I'lioiT. 

C(niiiii..ii  in  the  Kowak.      K.mii.l  also  at  Ounalaska. 

Three  specimens:  rpp,.!.  K.iwak.  .Tuly;  Ounalaska,  Octolwr. 


96  C'UriHK  OK  THK  STKAMKK  C'oKWlN. 

KS()t:i|)vK. 

B«OX  lUOiUB  l.illlKIIIK,       I'IKK. 

Aliiiiiiliiiit  ill  all  [iiu'Im  i<(  tlic  Knwuk,     TIh-mi'  (islifs  wci'f  nioMt  i\ii)nfi'ttnM  in  ilic  liiv;ii(iiis  livul- 

ill^  nil'  ll'iilll  till'  I'JM'I',   llirkill^r  ill  till'  HliallnWrsl   Wlllrl'  lilllDll^r  till'  llliiMHrM,   I'l'iini   wllil'll  \V(<  t'lill- 

Htaiitly  NtiiHli'il  tlh'iii  ill  wulkiiiK  alun^  Nlinri>.     WoHliut  iiuiii)H>rH  nl'  tlioiii  uh  tlixy  lay  in  lli*' 
iiKi.HMcs  Willi  liari'l y  i'Immi;;])  walcr  In  mvi'i'  IIh'Iii.      II  is  iinHHildc  llial  llii'y  were  H|iii.WMitiK  Hi''!"'. 
Twu  Hpi-riMiriis;   Mii|ill<'  Knwak,  Aii>;iinI. 

I'LKOKoNKCTIDvK. 
lilmanda  aapera  l^illiin, 

'I'iiis  spt'cii's  was  rniiiid  in  liniili'd  nunilnTs  in  Aiik'i^'  ainnii^;  llir  jtilcs  nl'  lisli  al  llii'  iiMli\)) 

liH||ill>;-^|'nlinils  Ml    KnI/i'lilli'  Sniiiiil.       Il  W  is  llnl  sri'll   wln'll  Wi'  |iaHSiM|  tlii'lT  till'  lil'Ht  nl'Jilly, 

Tlu't'o  H|)i'cinii'iis;  Knlzdiui' Sniiiiil,  i\ii^;iisl  -.'li. 

Pleuronectea  Btellatiis  I'lilhtH.     "  I'l.niMH'.it." 

'I'nliTalils  alMiiidMiil  al  Knl/.cipui' Sniiiid  early  in  .Inly. 
Twti  siiccinit-'iis;  Kntzdnu' .Sniiiul.  July  .'l. 

NOTESON  MAMMALS,  IIIUDS.ANDFISIIKSOHTAINKI)  AT  VAHIOIIS  I'LACKS 
HKTWEKiN  TIIK  AKKUTIAN  ISLANDS  AM)  kUTZKIU  K  SOl'iM). 

At  Scliisniari'lV  Inlrt,  nn  An^^iisl  ".'s,  I  saw  ninrc  slinif  hinls  curlews,  plnsers,  j;(Hhvils. 
snipes,  (S;c.  than  I  ever  saw  hefnre  in  niie  day.  Tlie  lnnK-'>ill''d  siii|pes  alVnrdeil  parliiulail.\' 
line  spi>rl;  they  arnse  in  llneks  Irnni  the  niaishy  ^'inimd  ever_\  where,  sn  that  even  the  lyms  were 
al)lt<  to  liaK  <'ntisiileralile  iiiinilpers  n|'  ilieiii.  The  pniids  ami  lakeleLs  alinul  Port  Clarence  were 
lilled  with  Inii^-tail  ducks  in.luiie  ami  with  widH'enii  in  .\u);usl,  while  shnre  liirds  nl'  many 
species  Were  very  aliiindaiil  during  l>ntli  visits  we  made  there.  ilalPs  Island.  hnwe\er.  1  cnii- 
sidercfl  thi' ninsl  interest  in^:  place  at  whiili  I  he  Cmu  in  stnjiped.  Us  hills  are  I  hree  thniisand 
feet  or  more  in  heii^ht.  innunt.iins  iilnmst .  w  hicli  I  he  nmsl  cnrsnry  exam  in. it  inn  shows  In  he  old 

volcalines.      Their  slopes  are  Inaded  with  tlli'  heas  iest   nf  spli;if;lium  Ve^'elatinll.       I   I'niind  lovely 

plants  spi'ln^inK  '"  riiviues  whi'i'e  the  last  year's  siinw  was  still  lyint;,  while  nmre  l'a\nral)le 
S|)nts  Were  aj^lnW  with  the  liriH;llt  cnlnrs  nl'  llnwers.  whose  lilnnlll  nil  this  Inliely  island  is  unseen 
save  hy  the  wild  cre-itui'es  whn  make  their  Imnie  there.  1  lilled  iii\  K"uie-liag  with  some  nf  thi> 
showiest  oiit's.  which  have  since  lieen  ideiitilii'd  as  follows: 

Aronitinn  ikiiicIIii.s  jjiin.  Si'iH'cio  rcscilifnliiis  Less. 

Hdiiiiiiciilns  cinni.s  Meiitli.?  (Iciiliniid  fri<iiil<i  Haenkc. 

<'iinl<nniiii'  jn-tilcii.si.s  L.  I'lt/iniiniiinii  piilrhi'lhnii  HniiLce. 

Ccnisfiinn  riil<i<tfinii  L.  I^i'iliciilnris  vti}iil(it<i  .\claiiis. 

Scdiiiii  vhoiliolii  I).  ('.  Vi'rmiii'it  (iljtiiKi  L. 

Vdh'riiiiKi  cdiiiliihi  Willd.  t'oli/fiiiinnii  riri^iiiriiiii  L. 

polar  hears  are  i:unierous. 

St.  Micliacrs  is  a  iammis  place  for  ifeese  in  tin-  fall.  The  natives  lii'oii.nht  tlieiii  on  hnard 
hy  the  dozen,  the  assortment  consisting;'  of  white-frnnled,  ( 'aiiada.  and  empernr  j^eese.  .\  strik- 
ing feature  of  the  place  is  the  large  numlier  of  ja'gers  (Slcnontri iis)  thai  lly  ahoiil  the  hay. 

Having  spent  the  greater  part  of  tlie  suiunier  farther  north.  I  i|i<l  not  Iuinc  an  opportunity 
of  visiting  the  islaiul  of  St.  ( ienrge.  n^  the  I'riliylnlV  grniip,  .•md  did  imt  pick  ii](  many  specimens, 
e.xcept  fur-se;ils.  while  at  St.  {'aiil's.  the  n.se  nf  lire-arms  heing  prnliihited  during  the  si'aling 
season,  imd  my  time  heing  taken  up  with  the  seals.  A  week  or  more  s|)eiiti)ii  Otter  Island  was 
])ro(luctive  of  many  desiralile  nrnitholngical  specimens,  oik^  species  (Triiif/d  (laiii'iKCfiixin) 
lieing  new  to  the  fauna  of  Xnrlh  .\merica. 

A  visit  to  the  Farallone  Islands,  otV  the  f'alifornian  coast,  where  tliere  ar(>  myri.ids  of  sea- 
hinls.  had  pre])ared  me  only  in  a  slight  m(>asure  for  the  ornithological  wonders  of  the  Prihy- 
loffs.     While  the  steamer  was  passing  St.  (leurgu's  the  surface  uf  the  sua  was  dotted  with  bird 


8 

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CRUISE  OF  THE  STEAMER  CORWIN.  97 

r.-inis  in  all  .liivctioi.s  as  fur  iis  oyc  could  s(m>.  Lciig  linos  of  flying  snillomot.s  (.nciirlci  the 
isiaiul  and  hounded  the  horizon.  All  avaihihlc  portion.s  of  th..  i)old  hluffs  wt-iv  crowded  with 
niurirs.  auks,  iiumiis.  and  other  hirds,  whose  clamor  was  unceasiuK.  Birds  are  not  ne-irly  as 
niun..rous  at  St.  I'aul's.  ( >tter  Island,  which  is  hut  little  fre.iuented  l.y  the  fur-s.'al  on  accoui.t 
of  Its  alino.st  continuous  shore  line  of  hUiffs.  is  a  strouKhold  for  the  hirds.  Wc.gotthe  ej-Ks  of 
the  fulmars  hy  swin-iuK  over  the  cliffs  on  th  ■  en.l  of  a  n.pe.  The  ,.g«s  of  the  murres  were 
usually  more  acce.ssihle.  hut  tho.se  of  theauklets  werj.'  hidden  far  hack  in  narrow  rock  crevices 
where  it  was  inipo.ssihle  to  get  at  them. 

A  few  plants  gathered  incidentally  on  St.  Paul's  in  Septeml)er  and  on  Ounalaska  Island  in 
()ct(jher  have  heen  determined  as  the  following  species  l)y  Dr.  V\asejr: 

St.  Paui/s. 

R<itnnirnh,s  ninilis  R.  Br.;  Aconitnin  uapelhis  L.,  var.  Papan'r  nmJicaide  L  •  Ccnis- 
tnim  arrnis,'  L. ;  Hoiikeitift,  /wijloiilcs.  Ei'hr. ;  ralpriaud  dioivu  L. ;  Tara.nirnw  i>fliciniile  L  • 
(lrnhii>»it,;H-Uii.  Rott.:  P,>ln„„„iiiw  cn'ntleum  L. ;  Pnlnp„di„,H  n,h,(,reh.;  Asnidimn  sid- 
II iild.'iinii  Hwtivi'/,;  Aspidiinii  loiirliitifiHwtivtz. 

Ounalaska. 

\-iirrii,iii,n  ii/i(/i„i,.vtinh.;  r,V/(//r</(a //•/?//>/«  Haenke;  h,l,,i>oiJh,m  rnhinre  L-  Asni- 
(I  III  III  htiirlnhs,  Swartz.  ' 

MAMMALS. 

apermophilus  empetra  ( I'alltix).     I'ahuy's  SpKinioi-niLK. 

Parry's  Sperniophil..  is  not  uncommon  ahout  Port  Clarence.  Its  skin  is  very  extensively 
used  hy  the  i)eople  of  th.-  coa.st  for  making  parkas,  shirt-like  garments  with  hoods,  and  other 
clothing. 

One  specimen;  Port  Clarence,  August  ;}(). 

Arvicola  obscurus  Ercr.siiidini. 

In  many  places  on  Hall's  Island  the  ground  was  honeycoml)ed  with  the  hurrows  of  what 
I   took    o   ho  lemmings    {Mi/ndrs),    hut  the  only  specimen  ohtained  proves  to  he  a  mouse 
alth.mgh  of  lemming-like  appearance.     It  is  possihlo  that  the  lemming  also  exists  there 
Eumetopias  stelleri  (Acskoh).     Stkm.eu's  Ska-mox. 

I  ohtaiiKHl  an  immense  male  of  this  species  in  Septemher  at  St.  Paul's,  where  it  is  moder- 
ately common. 

Callorhinus  ursiiius  (Uniiv).     NouriiKiiN'  Fcit  Seat,. 

Oat  hers  in  countless  numhers  ,.n  the  Prihyloff  Islan.ls  during  the  summer  .season  to  hreed 
Hue  ()t  my  specinuMis.  a  very  young  one.  is  an  alhiiio. 

Xineteeii  specimi'iis:St.  I'anl  Island.  June  and  Sejitemher. 

OdobaemiB  obesus  (///.).     Tacikic  Walhcs. 

Two  or  three  walruses  weir  killed   hy  oflicers  of  the  (;>,;riii  at  Hall's  Island  Septemher  S 
nut  no  specimens  were  sa\-ed. 

Thalassarctoa  maritimus  (l.iiiiK'i.    IVhah  Bkaii. 

Four  polar  hears  were  in  sight  at  on.,  time  upon  the  side  of  the  mountain  when  the  Cnnrii, 
cuino  to  anchor  at  Hall's  Island  on  Septemher  s.  hut  they  ran  awav  at  sight  of  ,mr  huntin.^ 
party  going  ashon>.  Three  of  them  escaped  over  the  hills  under  cover  of  the  fog.  the  fourth  a 
very  large  one.  taking  refuge  among  the  rocks,  where  it  was  finally  killed,  falling  to  mv  own 
iiHe.  The  weight  of  this  hear  was  variou..ly  estimated  at  from  fourteen  to  sixteen  hundred 
pound.s.  With  the  help  of  a  squad  of  sailors  Captain  Healy  kin.lly  sent  ashore,  I  was  ahle  to 
convert  the  unwieldy  boast  into  a  specimen.  A  considerable  quantity  of  the  meat  was  taken 
H.  F,x.  15.'!— — 13 


9S  CHriSK  (»K  'VUF.  STKAMKH  COKWIN. 

nil  ho.-inl  ami  wms  iiniiit.iiiKTil  ,-ci.»l  ratiii-.  Oiimnin'  hams  was  sent  totln'  Alaska  C'omm.T- 
(•iiiK'c.iM|>aiiy"sai;viit  al  St.  I'aiii's  Islaii.i.  and  slraks  rn.iii  ii  app.'aivil  ivunjitrly  at  liis  taiih- 
for  a  wrrk  ni-  imMv.  and  wciv  hi-lily  api-iviiatcd  l.y  all.  I  iiinitidii  tiiis  hccaiisr  it  is  .•nii1ra,ry 
to  \\u-  Mpiiiinii  »\  wiial.Ms  ill  nviirral,  all  with  whom  I  .-niiv.Ts.Ml  liaviii-  d.vlaivil  tlic  niral  of 
tlu!  whilr  l»'ar  unlit  i\<v  ln,,i|.  Th,'  ydlnwish  siininicr  cnal  ..f  this  s|M'ciincn  was  so  loose  that 
iteiisiiy  nibhcd  olV,  (•xposiiin'  thr  short  hair  of  the  snowy  white  winter  coat. 

HIKDS. 

Urinator  adamsii  (^■/v^vl.     \Viini;-iiii,i.i:i)  l.oos. 

I  saw  a  skin  of  the  whitc-hillrd  h at  tin'  house  of  the   I'liileil  States  Treasury  a,u;»'nt  on 

St.  I'aurs  Island.      It  was  killed  i'V  a  native  there  in  .Xu.n'Usl,  ISS.'i. 

Urinator  Inmine  ('.' "»/(.).     l!i;i>-Tin!o.\Ti;i)  I.oon. 

Voiiiin'  liirds  of  this  spiM-ies  were  rather  eoininoii  at  (  )uiialiiska,  in  Oetohiu-. 
(  )iie  slieeinieli;   (  )uiialaska.  •  )etolier  ■:'■'<. 

'  Lunda  cirrhata  /'.(//.     'I'l  iTie  I'l  ii-in. 

Vi'ry  eoiniiioii  alioul  the  islands  of  the  TrilpylolV  uroiip. 

One  siiei-inieii;  <  liter  Island,  .liine  1  I. 
Fratercula  coruiciilata  i.Vc'ih.i.     IIoumji  I'eii-lN. 

I'rihylolVs.      i'rolialily  niuiv  nuinerons  than  the  |>reeedin,t,'. 

Six  siMM'iini'iis:  ( (Iter  l.-laiid.  .Iiine  .s    I  I. 
Cyclorrhyuchus  psittaculus  1 1 'nil.).     l'\i;o(,iei  r  Ai  ki.kt. 

Coinnion  on  the  I'rihy loll's. 

One  spei'lini'ii:  ( )lter  Island.  .Inne  s. 
Simorhynchus  cristatellus  ( /'i///.K     ('laisii  i>  AeKl.DT. 

Coinnioii  on  the  i'riljy lolls. 

Three  speeiiuelis:  ( )tter  Islainl.  June  s. 

Simorhynchus  pusillus  i  I'ull.K     1.k\st  Ai  Ki.i;'r. 
Coinnion  on  the  I'riitylolVs. 
Kiehteeii  speeinielis:  St.   I'aul  Island.  , J  line  :;-!•.'. 

Cepphus  columba   I'nll.     rica:oN  ( li  ii.i.i;mi  iT. 
Oii'y  a  few  seen. 
{»ne  specimen:  Ounalaska.  <  )ctol)er  •.':>. 

Uria  lonivia  arra  tl'<ill.\.     P.M. i, ass  Mruur.. 

('oninioii  on  the  I'rihylolV  Islands  in  siininier  and  at  Ounalaska  in  the  full. 
Three  specimens:  ( )ller  IsLind.  .Inne  ]■.'  -I  1:  Ounalaska,  October  •.':>. 

Stercorarius  pomarinns  (7V//n».).     I'oMAiiiNi;  .l.v;(a;K. 
( )nly  seen  once. 
One  speciimui:  St.  P.aul  Island.  .Inne  H;. 

Stercorarius  longioaudiis   \'ii  ill.     l.usc;  rAii.r.n  ,l.i;(a.n. 

C'ominon  ahoiit  Norton  Soiiml  and  I'ort  Clarencf. 

R'ssa  tridactyla  poUicaris  l:!<hiii:     I'ac  iilc  Kittiwaki:. 
C'onnuon  on  the  Priliylotls. 
Two  specimens:  Otter  Island,  .Iiiiie  j-j-lt. 

Risaa  brevirostris  ( lirnrh).     Ui-.D-i.Kdiaon  Kittiwakk. 
("oininon  on  the  Priliylotls. 
Six  specimens:  (JHcr  Island.  June  I'i- 1  I. 


CRUISK  OK  TIIK  S'I'KAMKK  CfUnVIN. 


99 


Diomedea  nigripes  Ami.     Hi.ArK-KuDTiin  Ar.iiA  inos-^. 

I  ul.taincil  scvcl'jil  •■trciiifs"  ill  tlir  NuHli  I'ju'itir.  t  Ui.  of  I  llivc  Imiullvd  miles  solit  li  .,|  til.' 
Aleutian  Islfui.ls.  hy  ••  lisliin-r "  fur  liicni  uwr  (lie  stern  nf  the  vessel  witji  a  ,,K|-line  linited 
with  pork.  They  folloued  in  the  wake  of  the  steamer  IV..M1  the  time  \\i-  left  Caliloniia  until 
the  Aleutian  Islands  were  siufhted. 

Three  specimens  (skeletons);  May  15. 

rulmarus  glaoialis  rodgersii  {Cuss.).     Uiidui'.rs's  Kii.mai!. 
Coinmon  on  the  I'rihyloU's. 
One  s[)ecimen;  Otter  Island,  June  14. 

Phalaorocorax  pelaglous  (/'<(//.).  Vi(ii,K.T-(iui;i:.\  Coumohant. 
Ont^  s])ecimeii;  Oiiiialaska.  Octoher  •.':>.     Common. 

Anas  americaua  (liiicl.     Hai.di'atk. 

Ahiuidaiit  at  ['oi't  Clarence  in  Au.nust. 
One  s|ie<Mmen;   l^)rl  (!larence.  .\iii;iist  •.'!). 

Clangula  hyemalis  (/./■)(((.).     Old  SyiAw. 

We  found  this  species  in  al.,Midance  late  in  .June  at  Port  Clarence,  where  we  shot  many. 
Histrionicus  histtionious  (/./«(/,).     llAiil.Kvii.N  Dick. 

CVmimon  at  Otter  Island,  where  1  ohtaiiied  one  specimen  .lime  |  i.  .\  |l,,el,-  ,,f  iw,.|iiy  ..]■ 
moivcoiild  lie  seen  on  the  ro(d<s  near  the  laiidiii.e- at  low  tide  almost  any  day. 

Arctonetta  iisclieri  {lintiiill).    Sckitacm-.d  KiDKit. 

Cajitaiii  Healy  shot  a,  fine  specimen  of  (his  l.ir.l  forme  at  I'ort  Claivnce  on  .lime  •.".». 
Anaeralbifrona  gambeli  (//kW/.).     .Amkkican  Wihti.-fiio.ntki)  (Joosk. 

One  specimen:   St.  .Michael's.  Septemlier  I. 

Braiita  canadensis  minima  h'iiliiir.     Cackmno  (ioosK. 
Two  specimens:  St.  .Michaers,  Septemhei'  f. 

Philacte  canagica  Sfi-Ksl.     Kmi'kuok  (Ioosk. 
^      Common  at  S(.  MichaePs.     Three  or  lour  sdvi-.-lers  -vere  seen  also  at  St.  j'aul  Island  in 

.^cptemlier. 

Thive  s])ecimens:   St.  .Michael's.  Septemlier  4. 

Gius  canadensis  I /,(■)(//,  1.     I.itti.k  liiioWN  ( 'hank. 

While  at  St.  I^iiil  Island  some  nadves  came  (o  me  and  ivp,,rte,l  haviii-  seen  a  lai-v  loiv- 
l.'.W'l  liinl  wadin-  in  a  shallow  pond  ue.ar  (lie  villa-e.  and  -ave  me  a  lar-e  fe.-nher  which  l'?e 

I'lnhlropped   in   its  flight.     There  is  loul.t    in   my   mind  .■ilu.iil    this  l.eiii-  a  crane  as  the 

spe.'ics  IS  ahiiiidant  on  (he  mainland,  while  herons  are  unknown  (here.  Mr  Klii,,|t  lells  me  .f 
hayuiy:  seen  cranes  oii  St.  Ma((hew's  Island.  It  is  iio(  n.iveii  in  his  lis(  of  the  hirds  of  (he 
rrihy  lolls. 

Crymophilus  ftilicarius  (/,/((».).     Hi'd  Phai.aroit;. 

Phalaropes  were  constantly  present  upon  a  shallow  .salt-water  pond  on  ( Jtti^r  Island  duriie. 
our  stay  there. 

Eii>lit  s]iecimens:  Otter  Island.  .June  S-l->. 

Macrorhamphiis  scolopaceus  (.SW//).     I.ono-bu.i.kii  I)awit(  riKR. 
One  s])eci7iieii:   Port  Clarcuice.  Au^•ust  :>(). 

TrJngaoouesi  lii<liiii:     .Vm.itian  Sandpiimir. 

Five  specimens;  Ouiialaski-,'  (|^iffvl:Je^;•^3.^•:AUurid,t/ll..  u.  ducks. 


100  CRUISE  OF  THE  STEAMER  C'ORWIN. 

Tringa  maoulata  Virill.     I'f.cthkai,  Sanwii'EU. 

Two  siiiriinfiis;  Schisnmrett'  Inlet,  August  W;  Port  Clarenco,  Juno  'iS. 

Tringa  damaoeusls  (Hwxf. ).     Lonk-tokd  Stint. 

Hy  tlif  captun'  of  tliis  Asiiitic  Innl  on  Otter  Island.  Alaska,  where  I  sliut  an  adult  female, 
ill  hreediiiK  |>liiiiiaKe,  on  June  H,  lss.5,  a  sjiecies  is  added  to  tlie  fauna  of  Nortli  America.  It 
was  reediiiw'  in  a  shallow  salt-water  |ioiid,  with  other  7'////f/((',  wiiicli  I  suiijiosed  to  lie  Avtu- 
ih'oiiKis.  Ill  his  Ornithology  of  Kamtschatka,  Mr.  Stejiieger  writes  as  follows  of  this  species: 
•  The  Long-toed  Stint  arrives  at  Bering  Island  in  large  tlocksduriiig  the  latter  part  of  May.  and 
is  then  met  with  on  sandy  iiearhes,  where  the  surf  has  thrown  u|i  large  masses  of  sea-weed, 
busily  engaged  in  picking  u])  the  nuineroiis  small  crustaceans,  itc,  with  which  the  weeds 
al)(Uind.  Most  of  the  hirds  stay  only  a  few  <laYs,  going  further  iiortli.  while  a  small  numlier 
remain  over  summer,  hreeding  sparingly  on  the  lai'ge  swamp  heliiud  the  village.  My  etVorts 
to  liiid  llie  iiests  were  unsuccessful,  hut  1  shot  hirds  near  Zapornaja  Ke.schka  on  tlio  lUk  and 
■J-.'d  of  .lune  and  on  tht^  7tli  of  August." 

Triuga  alpiua  paclfica  (Cuiifn).     1{ki>-hackki>  SASDi'irK.it. 

Two  specimens;  Port  Clarence.  June  -.'S;  Hall's  Lslaiul,  September  iS. 

Limosa  lapponica  baueri  i.V((«//i.).     I'acikic  (ioDwrr. 
One  specimen;  Port  Clarence.  .August  -.".i. 

Heteractitis  incanus  {(iiiiH.).     Wa.nhkhinii  Tati.KK. 
One  siiccimeii;  Otter  Islailil.  .IlllieS. 

Cha:adrius  domiuicus  fulvu8  ifi'»((7.i.     1'ai  iilc  ( iul.liKN  I'LoVEit. 

Two  speeinieiis;  Poi't  Clarence.  June  -'S- August  )iU,     Ahundant. 

Arenaria  interpres  (l.iiiii.).     'rcuNSTosi-,. 

( )iie  s]iecimi'n:  Port  Clarence,  ■Iiiiie  ".'s. 

Lagopus  rupestiia  nelsoni  Slijii.     Nki.shn's  I'taKMKian. 

1  hadexcelli'iit  sjiort  shooting  tlie.xe  liirdsoii  Hog  Island,  at  t  lie  entrance  of  Captains  Harbor. 
Kleveii  specimens:  ()uiialaska.  .May  '.'s. 

Halifeetus  leucocephalua  {I. inn.).     Hai.d  I'.AcU.K. 

\'crv  (iimiuon  about  the  rocky  blull's  of  ()unalaska  Island. 

Corvus  corax  sinviatus  (ll'<i;//.l.     .\Mi:nicAN  Kavkn. 
Two  specimens;  ()unalaska.  ( )ctobcr  ".'.'i. 

Leucosticte  griaeouucha  (Ilniiiilt).  Al.KfllAN  Hosy  Kincii. 
Common  on  tlie  I'ribylotf  and  Aleutian  Islands. 
Twelve  specimens;  Ouiialaska.  October  •.>.■>;  ( )tter  Island,  June  S. 

Acaiithis  horiieraaiinii  exilipes  (Cdkcs).     Hoakv  Kkdi'oli.. 
One  specimen;  Port  Clarence.  June  -,'8.     Common. 

Plectropheuax  nivalis  [I.iiiit.).     SNOwii.AKli. 
Pribylolfs.     Common. 
Five  specimens;  Otter  Island.  June  f*. 

Plectropheuax  hyperboreus  Ridiju:     MiKay's  Snowfi.ake. 

While  the  ('i>nriii  was  anchored otf  Hall's  Island,  on  September  S.  T  obtained  twospo'-umens 
of  this  species,  which  was  comparatively  numenms  there.  Hying  in  pairs  over  the  sphagnum- 
covered  hill-slojies  or  gathering  in  small  numbers  in  the  ravines  near  the  .sea-shore.  The  lirecd- 
ing-place  of  this  species,  which.  M'l^s  d'-'.st ''ibed  in  JSSt  f.(.m  siieciiueiis  taken  at  Nusliagak, 
Alaska,  by  :Mr.  Charles  McKay,  lurd'itt  St.'Miclui<'lV,  l;j  Mr   Xelson.  has  remained  a  mystery 


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CRUIKK  OK  THK  S'I'KAMKK  CollWIN.  101 

until  its  (liacOviTy  in  yoimi;  mikI  l>r liny  piiiiiiaK-.'  "ii  Hull's  Islimd.     It  is  not  ini|irolpal)lc  tliiit 

tlicsnowMiik-csol'  this  island  imhI  I  lie  liifi,^'  adJuininK  island  of  St.  Mattlicw's  aic  all  lijuirrlinrciin. 
miowliakt's  liaviii),'  hccn  seen  im  llic  lattrr  in  aliundancc  iiy  .Mi',  Kiliolt.  Mr.  Kid^way  sn.!.,'j,'csls 
(Tlif  Auk.  April,  ISSfJ)  that  tlicsMn\vllal<r>  nfSt.  Lawrcncr  island,  nn.rt'thun  a  liiindrcd  niiifsto 
tlu!  ndrtliward.  may  Im'oI'  this  siircics,  hut  that  all  timsc  as  yet  kiKiwn  fruni  the  I'riliylotl's.  iwn 
hundred  niiirs  to  the  southward,  arc  true  /'.  niidlia.  Lcssthaii  a<l(>zi'n  siicciuicns  of  i'.  /i/nx'r- 
hitn-iis  have  ever  iiccn  taken.  The  plate  rejiresent in^  this  liird  was  drawn  I'roui  the  type  speci- 
mens in  sjiriuK  plumage,  in  summer  plumage  it  may  readily  he  distinguished  from  the  ordi- 
nary snowtiakc  hy  its  H'cueral  whiteness,  having-  no  hiack  except  on  tlie  tips  of  tlie(piills,  wliile 
iiintlix  is  c<)n.spicunu.s  by  it.s  hIack  hack  and  more  extensively  lilackened  primarii'S.  /'.  iiirnh's 
lias  also  the  three  middle  paii's  of  tail-feathers  hiaek  to  the  hase.  Iin/ii-rlinrriis  liavint;  them  hnt 
slijrhtly  hIack  near  the  ends.  The  fenuilesof  li i/pcihdreiin  nn'  imU'V :i\u\  less  marked  with  hIack 
than  tiiose  of  iiira/is. 

CalcariuB  lappoiiicua  (/v/ti/i.).     L.vi-LANn  Lo.nosih'U. 

These  hii'ds.  wlii(  h  Were  plentiful  in  .lune.  were  rare  in  .Vu^nist. 
Two  sjiecimens:   I'ort  Clarence,  dune  -^'.s. 

AmmodramuB  saiidwicheiiBis  ift'mi/. ).     SANhwicM  SrvitKiiw. 

One  specimen;  Oiinalaska,  Octi)hei'  h;.     Thi' only  one  seen. 

Melospiza  cinen-a  (*r'y»(7. i.     Al.KiriAN  SeNu  .Scmiudu. 

Very  ahundant  ahout -Onnalashka  Island.  1  saw  several  Aleutian  song  .s])iin'()\vs  cuKed. 
and  in  every  instance  they  were  con  tiding  am!  familiar  when  taken'  fi'oni  the  cage  and  given  the 
liijerty  of  the  hou.se.     The  sung  in  contiuenient  is  a  low  whistle,  sweet  and  phiinlive. 

Twelve  specimens;  ( >unalaska.  Octolier  l'.i--il. 

Passerella  iliaca  i.l/i/-/. ).     lAix  SPAuitow. 

1  saw  several  fox  sjjari'ows  in  hrushy  placi's  unw  the  hills  at  I'orl  Cliireiice.  hnt  they  were 
wild  and  kept  in  the  cover  so  closely  that  it  was  quite  impossihie  to  si I  them. 

Ciuclus  mexicanus  .s'ir(//i/.>.-.     Amkuican  Dn'i'KU. 

The  only  dipper  I  .saw  in  Alaska  was  one  1  shot  on  the  liorder  of  the  lake  heliind  the  village 
at  Ouiuilaska.  October  Kl. 

Troglodytes  alascensis  lifiird.    Alaskan  Whkn. 

Five  sjiecimens;  Ounalaska.  October  l!i.     .Abundant, 

PhyllopseuBtes  borealis  (/>Vi(.s-.).     Kknnk  (Ht's  Wn.i.ew  Wauhlku. 

I  shot  my  second  specimen  of  this  /-(wa  ((fi.s  at  Port  Clarent'e  on  August  .'!(>.  hut  lost  it 
wliile  returning  to  the  ship.  The  other  specinu'U  was  taken  on  the  K'owak  liiver  August  I. 
The  species  is  a  straggler  from  the  Asiatic  side  of  the  Straits. 

TurduB  aliciae  lininl.    (iitAV-c  iikkkkd  Tniicsii. 

This  bird  was  seen  on  three  or  four  occasions  at  Port  Clarence  and  Schijimarefl:'  Inlet  late 
in  August. 

()uu  specimen;  Port  Clarence.  August  .'io. 

FISHES. 

Ammodytea  americanus  personatus  Oimn}.     Sand  I^ainck. 

One  specimen;  Port  Clai'ence.  August  ;!l.     The  ouly  one  .seen. 

CottuB humilis /?ivitf.  ,.■'•■'.•     \'.   '.  \  ';•;';■'.•;   '■'.' 

A  single  specimen  of  this  species  was  hrouglitji.huartl  the  C'u^;<(w'(i. fit  Capo  Prince  of  Wales 
June  ao.  ■■  ,"  •'■•  ::■  .  •  ••••■!  '•  '■■     '■  ';" 


IQ2  CHUISK  UK  THK  STKAMKR  t'DHWIN. 

Oymnaoanthu*  galeatu*  llniii. 

Our  siHriiiirii;  I'nrt  t'l.m'iic..,  AiiKO-^t  ;;i.     Th.'  <.i.l.v  on.'  sfi-n. 

HomUepidotu«jordanl /f.ini. 

Two  or  tl.ivn  siMrinu-M.  ..f  I  Lis  tisli  w,.,v  i.l.M.tili.-.l  at  O.in.ilHsk.i.  but  n-.n.^  w.t..  h.iv.mI. 

PodotheciiB  nolpeiiierliim  7'/7r.i/»«.  ,      ,        ,.      i     . 

l„l,tnin...l  tl.islisluit  St.  Paul  IsIumJ.  aii.l  savv  a  f.-w  .Iricl  siM-cnn.M.s  at.  Ou.uilaska  ol  wliat 
Hi)i).'an.(l  to  I..'  iln-  samt-  spt'cit's.     Siicli  lislics  iiiv  coimiik.u  tlu-iv. 

OiinsiH'ciiiicn;  St..  Paul  IhIiukI.  .Imn'il. 

PleurogadiiB  navaga  Ki'ih: 

Ou.'siHriiucn:  ( iolwin  Bny,  Scptombcr  1.     Common. 

HippogloBBoides jordanl  h>ckiin.iUm.  ,   ,«      ,     , 

Nn,u..rn„s  at  ( )uMalasUa.     1  was  uiml.lr  to  n.ak..  a  .•.,ll..ctio..  of  fishofl  at  Onalaska.  as  my 
alcoliol  tai.U  Nvas  in  ilu-  liol.l  of  111.-  stram.-r.  wIumv  it  ••oul-l  not  !..■  ivaclu-.l. 


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ASST.EISLG.  S.B.lS^'-l^ENEGAN, 

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CA  FTA 1  tl  M  .A ,  RE  A  LY 
18  85. 


MERCATO  R5 
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-I   I   II  1  1     I   I  I  [   I   I   III    I.I    J  I    I  I   1  I    I  I    I  i-i  I   I  I   I   II   I  ]   I   I   I  I   I  7,  I   I   I  I   I   I   I    I  I  I  I  I  I    I   I   I   I   I   r   I  I  I    I  I   I  I   I    iT-r-r-t-r-r-i   I  i   I   I   i   I   L  I    1  I  I    I    I  I   I   I   J  i   III! 


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